Batteries - Fuses :: 1997 Plymouth Breeze - Dashboard Keeps Turning Off
Mar 5, 2016
I have a 1997 Plymouth breeze. My car lately has been having issues when it accelerates. When ever I go over 3000 rpm's to quickly the whole front dash would turn off. The car still runs fine though and the head lights still stay on. When I let go of the gas the front dash would turn back on. It would eventually turn off again once I pass the 3000 rpm mark. I went to autozone to check the battery and their reader said that the battery was bad. I just want to make sure it is the battery before I buy a new one though.
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I have a 2000 Plymouth Breeze 2.4L.
When I make sharp turns in either direction, I get a grinding noise.
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My Plymouth Breeze is having issues starting up. It started a while back, my wife was driving the car and she got stranded because her car wouldn't start. I gave her a jump. I had the battery and alternator tested and the battery was bad, but supposedly that alternator is good--so I replaced the battery. We get a week or twos use out of it, and the the rear brakes sprung a leak-- so I replaced the rear brake lines. When I tried take the new brakes lines for a test drive the car wouldn't start. I have a battery charger and used the 50 amp start feature, the car would still not start (it would turn over but not start). So I gave the battery a deep charge from the battery charger and the next day it was fine. My wife used it for a week and all seemed well. That is until the other day where she tells me it has a new problem.
Apparently the defroster randomly turns off and on, and the vent constantly switches which direction it is blowing. She took it out for a drive while it was like this and got stranded again. I went to give her a jump and the car wouldn't start at all. In fact none of the electrical came on, it was as if the battery had been disconnected. So we eventually get the car towed, and as I put the key in the ignition to put the car in neutral I hear the beeping to indicate the car door is open. I tried to start it and all of the electrical shut off again. So the guys tows car back, having to push it into a parking spot. I realized the tow truck driver left the keys in the ignition and it just occurs to me he had rolled the window down. I get in the car and turn the key and it starts up without hesitation, like there were not problems at all. Needless to say I'm a little confused and frustrated with this car. I'd like to get another year or so out of it before I replace it.
So here is what I am thinking...Battery: This should be fine I just replaced it.Alternator: I had it tested coupled with the last scenario leads me to believe this probably isn't the problem, but is suspect.Starter: This seems to work when there is power, so I don't think that is it.Fuses: They either work or they don't, there is no "getting better" so I doubt it is a fuse.Computer: I think this might be the culprit. Before I had to give it another jump (when it wouldn't take) things were turning off and on at random. It is also the only thing I can think of that might act in a fickle way.
Another theory is a loose wire coming off of the battery.
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I lose power in my 97 Plymouth Breeze when driving up hills. Drives fine everywhere else but I lose power going uphill. Replaced the plugs and wires.
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I was wondering if I can replace my overflow tube for my gas tank without replacing the whole gas tank. I know I will have to drop the tank and get new straps to install it, but would I need a completely new tank or can I buy an overflow tube separately?
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As I have been going speeds of 60-65mph, all of a sudden it acted like I downshifted or as if I slammed on the brakes. The rpms stay up, and it lasts just a second and continues fine. It almosts acts like something is catching. I had a mechanic replace the rotor and front brakes thinking that was the problem but it did it again this morning. A different mechanic thinks it could be the drive shaft and cv joints although everything is tight and the cv boots aren't cracked or anything.
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I have a 1996 Plymouth Breeze and its been a pretty trustworthy car for the last few years. Lately however I have noticed a gurgling sound coming from the coolant reservoir whenever it the thermostat gauge hits about 50%. It cools right back down to a little over 25% and the sound goes away. I don't think its a leak in my head gasket as there is not any oil in my coolant or coolant in my oil, and its not over heating.
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tonight at 1am: I put the key in and turn the ignition, no start, no click, no dashboard warning lights, no nothing. headlights don't turn on at allearlier in the afternoon - didn't check headlights, but no start, no click, no dashboard warning lights. Sliding 1 key into the ignition gave me a somewhat steady buzzing sound from the car, the kind you get to indicate something electrical is happening (I guess that's what it's for.
I wish I were mechanically inclined.) Sliding the other key into the ignition gave me a much more sporadic buzzing sound. Like metal wasn't making contact, when it should. A few hours previous in the morning - car wasn't starting as described above. Someone pushes the car back from the front so we can make way for another car, to come in and give me a jump. I put the car in neutral, and notice that the dashboard lights and buzzer is on, so on a hunch, I try to start the car in neutral and it starts right up. I drive it to the home driveway, no problem.
2 days ago, I bought the car. A 97 nissan sentra. What it could be? Again, never a clicking sound when starting the car to indicate dead battery. I'm familiar with that.
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The vehicle is a Plymouth Grand Voyager Expression, year 1999.
So we've tried to get this fixed in the past, we know a mechanic who has tried multiple times to fix this himself.
So here's the issue: All of the meters, lights, everything on the dashboard very rarely work(if they do they go back off while driving). If you hit the top of the dash hard enough, they will all sometimes come on and then go back off after an unpredictable amount of time.
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I am having a problem with my dashboard lights blowing fuses. I bought an 87 Ranger XLT, and found that the dash lights didn't work. The 5 amp dash light fuse was blown, and the dome light would not come on using the switch. I replaced the fuse with a 15 amp and replaced the headlight switch which had melted the connector at one of the terminals. The dome light now comes on using the switch and I was able to get the dash lights to come on at a very low setting, but the headlight switch will smoke some.
But when I turn the switch to brighten the dash lights, it causes the tail light fuse to blow. I don't see how the dash lights could blow the tail light fuse, but it happens as soon as I install a new fuse and brighten the dash lights. What is going on? I think it is probably a short somewhere, so I pulled the instrument cluster and looked at the wires, didn't see anything exposed.
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Working on my bosses 97 Econoline conversion van. The steering wheel was flopping in the breeze, gear indicator was off and some of the time it would be in reverse when you thought it was in park. Checked the torx on the shift cable plate and they are tight. Replaced the 2 bushings on the shift column. They tightened up the steering wheel flopping around. I checked the shift cable and it appears to be in good shape.
It would start sometimes if you worked the shifter in park or moved it to neutral. Now it will not turn over. Shift lock actuator does not appear to be working. Does not lock it park. No continuity between any of the three pins with the actuator pushed in or out. If you turn the key you can take it out of park without pushing on the brake. Really do not know the series of events that have to occur to make it turn over. How to trouble shoot the problem?
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I have a 1998 Plymouth Neon that will start after it has cooled completely, and be fine through out the day, but when I get home from school and I start it again, it makes a strange screeching noise, and after turning off the engine and trying to restart the car, the vehicle will not start again, but all of the lights work, the battery is fine, the alternator is okay, the starter is a brand new OEM part, new ignition coil, new spark plugs, new safety neutral switch, new speed sensor, new battery cables, new camshaft position sensor, the only extra thing it does have is fog lights that were not put in by the dealership, this was done when my uncle still owned this car back in 1999. The only other problem that it has is an Error code of P1899 (Safety/Neutral Switch Stuck) and at times when turning the steering wheel, it will make a screeching noise halfway turned until you let go a bit, and then it is able to completely be turned either way, and one last thing is that the speedometer was a bit erratic one time, while I was driving home on the freeway.
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I have a 2006 Acura RSX with an auto transmission that is having problems starting. The electronics work (ie lights, stereo, auto-locks etc) and the engine starts to crank when the ignition is engaged, but it sputters out and doesn't turn all the way over even with a jump start. The battery tested positive and none of the fuses are blown, how this could be fixed?
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Horn recently stopped working. I checked the fuse, noticed it was blown. I replaced with a new fuse. Pressed the horn and it had a very short sound and then blew the fuse. What could be causing this?
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I started getting the 5 sets of 5 beeps which indicates an airbag error. My light doesn't come on when I turn off the passenger airbag switch and the light on the dash doesn't come on when I first cut the key on, so I started checking fuses. The airbag fuse, #22 tested fine. But while checking these things I found out that I have no power to the following fuses;
1. #16 headlights (hi beams), cluster (high beam indicator).
2. #18 instrument illumination (dimmer switch power).
3. #20 Audio, GEM, PCM, Transmission range sensor.
4. #21 DTR sensor, Clutch switch, Starter relay, I/P fuse 20.
5. #26 Right-hand low beam headlight.
6. #27 Foglamp relay and foglamp indicator, Main light switch (upstream).
7. #28 Left-hand low beam headlight.
All of the headlights, etc are working and the only service engine error I get when I use my code scanner is P0401. Why would these items work if I'm not getting power to the fuse block. These fuses are not blown mind you, not getting power to either side of the fuses.
I'm going to replace the bulb in the passenger side airbag switch, but what would keep the warning light on the dash from lighting up when I turn the switch on?
The truck is an 03 F150 XL, 2wd automatic transmission. Very basic work type truck, no fog lights, no power windows or doors, etc. It has the 4.6 Romeo engine in it.
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I have a 99 F150 v6 and the radio stopped working. No power to the radio and no power to fuses 20(5A-Audio, GEM Module, Powertrain ControlModule (PCM)) & 21(15A-Starter Relay, Clutch Switch, Fuse 20). I have switched the fuses out, but the new ones don't show any voltage on either side as well. All other fuses seem to be good.
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My grand voyager 1997 plymouth 3.3 looses fuel pressure overnight... It won't start until I crank it for 5 min or longer... I checked with fuel gauge tester, and while it runs it reads 50lbs, after hours it drops to 0 ... Injectors don't leak ... What's up with this van?
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So I pulled into my driveway yesterday about 5 minutes after my low fuel light came on and as I was making the final turn around my house the engine cut off. Luckily I was able to park in it's normal spot before coming to a halt.
Anyway at first I though "out of gas" even though I knew I'd driven further with the light on. After putting in 3 gallons still no luck. I noticed with the key on no noise from the fuel pump so I checked the fuse and relay both were fine. I then checked all the other fuses and noticed the large 30amp PCM fuse under the hood was blown.
When I replaced it, it blew instantly. I was able to hear the fuel pump come on for a brief second before it blew out. Unsure if the two were related I then pulled the Fuel Pump fuse and replaced the PCM fuse one more time and again it blew. The motor cranks over but won't fire (not getting fuel.) Where I can start to correct the issue.
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Need location of the fuses for 12V power in dash.
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I use to have the 95 f150 and 94 danger ranger. And I tried logging on after about a year and wouldn't let me so i started a new one, But im in a 98 f150 now with a 5.4 and 4x4. No i saw that there was a guy with the same problem as me but the thread went no where. So one night out of the blue my head lights or high beams will turn on. But everything else will. And all fuses are good and i look at the manual and there's no replays to mess with. Even though i already did. So what i had to do to get home was hot wire the passenger side bulb and i got power to both lights. So whats going on do u think it can be the switch ?. My power with started acting up a few days before this but I don't know if that has anything to do with the head lights.
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I have a 1997 Toyota Corolla that will not start unless it is jumped, but it's not as simple as that.
Once it's jumped it runs well after a few minutes to warm up. The gentleman from AAA informed me that the battery is bad and needs replacement, but when I took it to the store where I purchased it (and it is still under warranty) they informed me that they would charge it first to verify it was still working before offering a replacement. Forty-five minutes later they assured me that battery was fully charged and would hold a charge. I took it home and put it into the car and it still will not start.
But it's not as simple as that... Here's the odd thing thing. When I put the battery in, and place key in the ignition the usual check engine light, door ajar light, dome light (etc.) work. When I turn the key to start the car I hear a single click then... nothing. If I take the key out and reinsert it, the usual check engine light, door ajar light, etc do NOT work.
Stranger still. If I disconnect the battery and then reconnect it (or just wait 20 minutes) the check engine light, door ajar light, etc do work, until I try to star the car and then the single click returns and the process repeats. To add there is moderate corrosion on the battery terminals.
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