Batteries :: Radio Won't Work After New Battery Installed
Sep 28, 2015
After my mechanic installed a new battery my car radio doesn't work. It turns on and lights up but generally only produces static. Every now and then it tunes into a station, with much static, but generally not. The fuse is fine. The radio manufacturer, LG, says this radio has no code so that isn't the issue.
My car is a 1999 SEAT Arosa 1.4 6h with APQ motor. It's essentially a small version of the VW Golf.
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I have a 97 Toyota Celica. Had a new battery installed and now the radio and clock do not work. Replaced the 15 fuse in the fuse area to the left of the steering wheel - which worked in the past - but this time, nothing. The cigarette lighter works, but no clock or radio.
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Today the dealership did a tuneup, replaced the timing belt, and put in a new battery. I started my car and the radio did not work. They went out and reset the radio but said it would not reset, they check the fuses and said they were all good. They took my radio out and put a different radio in and that radio worked which they said then proved to them that it was the radio itself rather than a problem in the vehicles wiring. They told me it must be a coincidence that it just broke on it's own at the same time they were changing the battery. They assured me that nothing they did could possibly have anything to do with this. They want to send out my radio for repair and have me pay for it.
Is it possible they did not change the battery properly? Could something they did kill my radio?This just does not make sense to be but I did not want to cause a comotion until I have further knowledge on this subject.
My car is a 2003 Hyundai Sante Fe with 92,000 miles on it.
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I purchased a new battery for my 2008 Chevy Equinox and have it installed. After they installed it, my car radio would not turn on at all. The clock on the radio interface had been reset to 12:00 when they disconnected the battery, but I could not reset the clock to the appropriate time after installation. After doing some research, I came up with two scenarios to look into:
-the fuse was damaged;
-or, the removal of the battery triggered a security lock down on the car radio that requires a code to be inputted to make it operable again.
I checked the fuse, and it worked fine. I looked up the security lockdown item in the manual, and it explicitly noted that if this were to be the case, the interface would clearly indicate the word "LOCKED." The interface does not indicate this. The only thing the interface indicates is the time, which is incorrect.
Are there any hypotheses as to why my car radio is now inoperable? And are there any suggested solutions for resolving this?
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I just bought the batteries I was asking about in this posting. Bought them at auto zone on my lunch hour today, they swapped them out right there in the lot, no problems. Watched carefully to make sure terminals were not crossed, etc. When I came out of work a few hours later, the #20 fuse for door locks was blown. I chalked it up to the battery change, and put a new fuse back when I got home. I come out an hour later to leave, and the fuse is blown again. I have not replaced it again, need to go get more of the proper amp rating.
No other changes to the truck other than the battery replacement. And that's the only anomaly. No other problems, nothing. Getting ready to head cross-country on a skiing trip, this Friday, so there really is no time to get to the dealer to get this looked at.
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Replaced batteries in key fob but does not work.small red light comes on on fob so it is getting power. Maybe a reprogram problem or broken fob.
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I installed a RNS510. When I scroll thru the MFD there is no info for the radio as if it was off.
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I have a 2007 bottle fed EX 350. I am installing XM into it. SAT/AM button scrolls thru SAT 1 2 3. Display sometimes shows 184 or 255. Occasionally is says Radio Err, It has displayed "radio id" with nothing else, And I managed to get it to display a cryptic looking F W1 4 30 .
NO XM ID
Siriusxm cannot work with my vin.
Cannot tune to ch0 as there is no XM preview going on.
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My daughter left the ingnition on after rolling up my windows last night and killed my battery. My charger is saying that it's charging not failed. Is there anything else that could of got messed up?
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Today while driving around on the back roads the radio signal faded in and out quite a bit. I don't remember it happening before like that. I was curious if a Pioneer head unit would have the same issue due to using the same antenna or if it's just the factory head unit causing the bad reception.
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Tuscon. If we go out of town, or any time we don't drive the Tuscan for three days or more we always come back to a dead battery. I mean really dead. I mean, get a new battery dead. Since 2005 when we bought the vehicle new, we've had nine—9—new batteries put in. The last one was a heavy duty battery recommended by the dealer.
This problem started after the dealer replaced the OEM radio. We've had multiple checks done on the engine to find out where the (battery) draw is coming from. I researched and found a Hyundai Technical Service Bulletin saying that the problem is from a defective stereo. But my dealer says they can't locate the problem.
We've also had the battery posts cleaned and other things done. The vehicle runs fine and has had few problems except for this nagging battery problem.
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Installed a 20'' light bar on my 2012 and when I turn on the Aux 1 uplifter switch my radio stations have static. This was not the case before the install. I have the hot wire tied into the Aux 1 (25amp) switch. Ground is run to drivers side battery ground. Do I need some kind of relay in line?
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I have a 2003 F550 6L diesel flatbed truck. Last week, the overdrive button would activate by itself. I'm assuming there was a loose wire so I taped the button to keep the overdrive off. Two days later, the overdrive came on while the button was pressed in and then smoke came out of the steering column/lever area. I pulled over and turned off the truck. The smoke stopped after 10 seconds and I restarted the truck. The overdrive light/functionality no longer worked and the instrument cluster also wasn't working.
The next day I was driving, and the truck died at a stoplight. I got it towed home, and opened the steering column and noticed that the overdrive button wire had burned. I removed the harness clip and charged the batteries. It started but the instrument cluster still didn't work. 2 minutes later the truck died. I replaced the alternator but still it won't charge the batteries. The truck dies 2 minutes after getting a battery boost to start the truck. The instrument cluster also doesn't work. What could be causing this issue?
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So my toddler turned on my dome light on Friday and I didn't realize it all weekend. Monday morning the battery was D.E.D. Charged it all day then jumped it and it turns over but no start. Took it to Autozone for a deep charge and test and ended up with a new battery. Installed it and the engine turns over but still won't start. It ran fine on Friday. This car is my commuter and I don't want to spend the money to take it to the shop. Why it won't now start? Could the dead battery have killed something else while it sat in my driveway?
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I recently bought a 1969 chevy c10 pickup. I have been having problems with the electrical system, the battery consistently going dead despite a new battery and alternator installed by the previous owner. Is there a step-by-step for diagnosis of this problem?
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My backup lights only work when I have one bulb or the other installed but not both. The other 4 mini lights in the same circuit on the trunk work. The backup lights do not work at all when the headlights are on. Could it be the backup light relay and where is that located? I checked wiring on the trunk and multiple bulbs.
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My mechanic put a used 2005 PMC in my 2004 powerstroke. Now tachometer does not work, trans and coolant temp guages don't work and drives as if it is stuck in 3rd. gear. Does it need flashed @ a ford dealer to sync the two together?
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every few days, the battery stops charging and dies.... tested the alternator, and that provides a charge...tested the battery, and that takes a charge... the car runs off the battery or alternator...tested and replaced all wires between alternator and battery... cannot figure out what is wrong.
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Problem with 1157 LED bulbs . I install all 4 light bulbs the tail lights and front turn signal lights the problem is all lights work with the signal lights. but when I turn the head lights the front signal lights don't work. Also the turn signal lights on my dash board both light come on
One more thing if I install the regular 1157 on the front . the LED lights on the back work fine and the from work fine . looks like the front don't like the LED bulbs. I have 87 ranger cab and half or extended cab. v6 2.9
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My mechanic installed a new Hybrid battery in my 2005 Pruis using the repair manual and a video that showed him how to do it. He also replaced the harness and the ECU battery. When he tries to start the car all of the lights light up on the dash but no ready light on the start button and the car will not start. The instructions did not say anything about this issue so he is lost! He thinks the smart key and the ECU have to be synced in some way but doesn't know how to do it. (none of the books covered this.
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My car battery was bad and took it to get it exchanged for a new one. Car was without the battery for probably around 6 hours. Came home and installed the new battery and car fired right up but I noticed that it idles at around 400-450 rpm. This is with the ac on or off. AC does not increase the RPM any. But I also noticed that at this RPM, the AC doesnt blow any cold air. As soon as I barely press the throttle and it gets to where it used to idle prior (600-700) the AC blows cold again. The car has never idled this low prior. I took the battery out for around 2 minutes and still the same thing. Ive also read about leaving it disconnected for 30-60 min and see if it works.
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