B3000 - Ranger :: 1994 - Died While Driving / No Spark
Nov 21, 2015
1994 Ford Ranger. Replaced coil, ignition control module, and distributor. Have checked fuses. Cranks fine.
View 19 Replies1994 Ford Ranger. Replaced coil, ignition control module, and distributor. Have checked fuses. Cranks fine.
View 19 RepliesAll my guages move (needle moves to the right) once I turn on my head lights. Indicating higher egine temp and higer oil pressure. What cause be causing this?
View 4 Replies94 Camry, 4 cylinder. 204,000 miles. New fuel pump last year. Timing belt replaced 30K ago. Plugs and plug wires, as well as distributor cap and rotor, about 2 years old. New ignition coil about 300 miles ago. Generally very well maintained and in good shape. Today it died on the NJ Turnpike, 200 miles from home; started missing and it got progressively worse over the span of about 30 seconds to the point that the motor died. Towed to local Pep Boys (I know, but it was the only choice on a Saturday and I don't know the local area).
Mechanic says no spark but was unable to fix it. As things now stand the nearest Toyota dealer is scheduled to move the car to their shop on Monday. All the dash lights come on, including chimes and such. It will crank like a champ but will not fire up. I know this isn't giving you all much to go on, but I'm wondering if what happened could be related to the coil. Is it likely to have failed? Would replacing an old coil cause anything else to break down in the distributor?
I have a 94 ranger with the 2.3l engine there is no spark at the ignition module (the front one both on the drivers side) that controls the plugs on the drivers side of the engine. I swapped with the module for the exhaust side but the problem stays at the same two plus and doesn't move with the module .. What can be the source of this problem? ECU?
View 6 RepliesSons 94 ranger 4.0 4x4 Auto 185k got him to work yesterday but would not start to bring him home. No spark, checked with timing light, and no fuel pressure. Searched and read alot of tips from Pawpaw so I tried a few things with no luck. Swapped the relays around, inspected coil pack and plugs. CEL was not on and goes out while cranking. I have a OBD scan tool but this truck must be too old or I need finding plug. Crank sensor maybe?
View 7 RepliesSo I bought my 1987 F150 XLT 4X4 (4spd) about two weeks ago and haven't had any issues with it so far... until now. As soon as I got it I did a full tune up. Changed plugs, cap, rotor, fuel filter, new battery, sea foamed it, fuel filter, ran a bottle of fuel stabilizer through it, new pvc valve, cleaned the throttle body, oil change, etc., ( all the usual things).
Was running fine up until two days ago when I was driving down the highway doing about 90km/hr in 4th when the truck suddenly lost power, sputtered and died. Tried to start it again and it will turn over but not start. So I get a nice expensive tow home and start to diagnose the problem. It is not a fuel issue. I can hear the pumps coming on, and fuel is coming out of the fuel filter so I cross that off the list.
Next I check for spark. No spark at all. So I run some tests. Battery is putting out 12V, about 10 when cranking. The solenoid is getting power and putting out power. No visible damage to any of the wiring, and all the grounds look good.
Next I just went ahead and swapped out the coil thinking that could be the issue. Didn't work. So I preform some more tests on the old and new coils. Both are grounded and having voltage pass through them. Next I take the TFI module off the distributor and check for resistance. Everything still checks out fine. Now I am thinking that the only thing left could be the PIP in the distributor. So instead of taking the dist apart and screwing around I go ahead a get a brand new dist and throw it in.
Now I am stoked and thinking that I finally fixed my truck and go to start it up and.... no spark. It still turns over but no start. I am trying to provide every bit of detail that I can. When I say I tested all the components I mean I REALLY tested them. I did both tests from the Haynes manual and from various sources off this site.
I am almost at the point of getting it towed to the shop, which I really do not want to do. A day before this happened I degreased the engine and VERY carefully sprayed it off with water. In the process I am thinking I may have damaged something?
My '84 F150 4X4 inline 6 Died last night while driving. just conked out and died right there on the spot. no sputter... no gasping... just instant death...
after some investigation i found i wasn't getting spark anywhere. not at the plugs, not at coil. I have replaced the ignition module to no avail. still no spark I am going to swap in a the coil tonight. sure do hope this works.
My jimmy died on me yesterday on my way home from work...i thought the fuel pump went because i couldn't hear it when trying to restart... I had about a quarter tank of regular in there,,,put in 2 gallons of super and it started, but died again about a quarter mile down the road...got it home with a push...after searching for and checking any fuses i could find...swapped relays on firewall and all seemed well....i heard the pump and it fired right up...went walked, just in case) and got another relay, and now i don't hear the pump again,the battery is a bit low now,,,so maybe a jump would give me enough juice? I'm going to jumper the wires/relay...and be sure the pump is working... I'm sure it is.. 94 jimmy 4.3 vortec 140k I gotta pick up my wife from work later and don't want to get stuck again...
View 9 RepliesMy Truck : 1999 Ford F-150 Extended Cab 4x4 5.4L V8
So the other day I was driving the truck and it just dies on me. Tried starting but it just cranked and cranked. Got it pulled over to a parking lot and then tried to start and I got it to run again. Died a couple mins later uo the road and it will not start at all anymore. I got it towed to my driveway and I've started diagnosing some things.
I dropped the tank thinking it was a pump I replaced awhile back. The pump wasn't running but jumped to conclusions and took it back to the auto parts store. They bench tested and it works fine. I checked for voltage at the pump connector. NOTHING. So I'm not getting power to Fuel pump. Then I checked the fuse and relay for the fuel pump. Everything was okay.
I did some research and decided to check for spark. NO SPARK. Another thing I noticed the other day was that the odometer is displaying all dashes. So I'm really unsure on what to really troubleshoot. I am going back to the truck tomorrow to check a few other things. I'm not sure if the Theft light is blinking or not so I will check that tomorrow and get back to you.
What to check? Any other relays or fuses besides the fuel pump? What about any modules to check like PCM, GEM, etc. Or I've heard the crankshaft sensor could be an issue.
My mazda b 3000 shut off while at a red light i t turned over initially 3-4 times now nothing. changed EGR, ECM, CRANKSHAFT AND CAM SHAFT SENSOR three weeks ago. brand new battery, took alternator in and it was bad so i replaced. theft light is blinking rapidly?
View 2 Replies2001 M B3000 v6 my sons truck w 122k. He is overseas and I took it to deliver a CB750 bike to my brother in law... 4oo miles away from my place.
In the middle of nowhere TX it developed a bad miss or knock, almost a shudder in the 2 to 3 k rpm range. Idles ok just below 1k runs fine at 70 mph as long as the rpm is near or over 3k.
Not sure I want to turn around and drive back the 400 with it running like crap. I will take it to Autozone and pull codes tomorrow a.m. but what should I expect?
I have spent two days searching for a fix to a problem like mine on my truck and I haven't quite found it. Sooo, here it is. I have a 2000 Mazda B3000 4x4. I'm getting the dreaded six lights flashing. I can hear the clicking under the dash as it attempts to engage the 4WD. I have checked the Motor at the T/C and no power. What feeds voltage to the motor its self? and is there any other thing I can check B-4 having it scanned? oh and it is a manual tranny.
View 4 RepliesI have a 99 Mazda b3000 v6 that has recently started to stall whenever in idle. Check engine light is on and the following codes popped up (P0176, P0135,P0141, and P0155). I'm sure one of these codes has to be related to the problem but I am clueless when it comes to troubleshooting. Also it started stalling after I filled up the tank. Not sure if that has anything to do with it, check engine light was already on before that.
View 2 RepliesChecked icm and is good, replaced coil and still no spark. Issues be gan when about 700 miles ago rotor button broke while driving??? Replaced button cap wires and plugs. Engine fired right up. Ran 700 miles and rotor button broke for 2nd time. This time replaced and will turn over but not crank. That's when I checked icm and changed coil. what should i check now?? 1993 Ranger 3.0 ... Truck has 199,800 miles. Top end was redone at 140,000.
View 10 RepliesI was driving down the highway when I lost all oil pressure soon after I lost power steering and the engine died. I have checked the radiator and it is still full of fluid pulled the starter off and try to crank it it still turns the cannot get the engine to turn over it clicks but wont turn over there are no oil leaks underneath the vehicle that I can see. I'm just not sure where to go or what to do from here
View 19 RepliesI have a 92 ranger 6cyl 4L. The truck stopped running while driving then kicked on again, it did this several times over about 20 minutes then finally died and now I can't get it started. I recently replaced the fuel pump and filter and spark plugs and wires. I get spark if I ground the plug and some gas will pour out of the fuel pressure test valve when I stick a screws driver in. When I check engine codes I get an all pass. Truck will turn over and sometimes run for 2 or 3 seconds but that is it.
View 2 RepliesGoing down interstate running fine. Then just died, changed timing chain & gears, camshaft, crank, throttle pos. sensors, New cap & rotor,new gear on bottom of distributor, new coil and module, everything but the knock sensor and computer. Still no fire, Plug wires are good.
View 1 RepliesI get a call from my mother saying their 1994 Toyota Camry 2.2L car won't start. I went over there today and the first thing I check was the spark. I hooked my spark tester and had my dad crank the engine over. No spark. So I removed the distributor cap and tested the resistance on the primary and secondary sides of the coil. The secondary side was low. So I went and got a new coil, installed it and it still wouldn't start. I checked the spark again and it had spark, but still wouldn't start. I then proceeded to check the fuel pressure. I hooked up my pressure tester to fuel filter, with the included adapter, and had my dad turn the ignition switch to ON position. No pressure. Then I had him try and start the engine, the pressure jumped up to 41 PSI. I then sprayed a little gas into the throttle and the engine would try to start. I'm stuck.
View 5 Replies1994 Mercedes C280, Cylinder 1 & 6 no spark. Changed 3 coil packs, changed wires and spark plugs. Engine wire harness look fine. Cylinders 2,3,4,5 have spark. Coil number 3 Controls Cylinder 1& 6; and I use multi-meter to check for voltage. 11.70 volts with key on position, 13.80 volts with ignition on. I need to figure out could it be a sensor or the ECU( Computer) or Engine?
View 1 RepliesSo three weeks ago, yes 3 weeks, my loathed Bronco decided not to start. It has been sitting at my office parking lot since then. Every day at lunch and after work I spend some quality time with it, attempting to coax it back to life. Here is what I've done so far...Installed a new ignition coil (gets 12+ volts with key in 'run,' and ±10.5 v. when cranking), a new distributor, (with PIP) cap & rotor, new remote mounted ignition control module. All voltages and resistances throughout the ignition system are good according to the Hayes repair manual but there is no spark being sent to the distributor. I've also done an ECC self test and got no response at all. Does this mean the ECC/PCM is bad? My butt is in so much pain with me having to ride a bicycle everywhere. (Riding in the rain while carrying an umbrella is no fun!).If I don't figure this out soon I suppose I'll give the Vehicle Donation Program a call.
View 9 RepliesSo driving on the highway my car died. It would crank but not start. Got it towed. This is what I have done to troubleshoot.
1. Swap ECUs. The car should start for a second and shut off because the car doesnt match with the ECU. Still just crank and no start.
2. Fuel pump still primes when I open the door. I also hear a weird air leaking noise when I reconnect the battery, but I think it comes from the fuel pressure regulator (which I think is normal).
3. Checked for current at the ecu wires, wasn't sure what to look for but it was getting numbers.
4. Battery had 12.1 volts running through it (Haynes said 12.5 but is that really much of a difference?
5. Checked spark plugs for spark. Pretty sure we did it right, but there was still no spark. We tried multiple times.
6. Scan car, get code P01314 twice (ECM error).
7. Try to clear codes, says Comm error.
Why am I not getting spark? and why is the ECU error occurring, because we tested with a new ecu, and there was still no start, not even for a second like there should be.