2005 Audi with 76000 miles, bought with an oil leak, O ring changed, still leaks, rear seal replaced, and then front seal on drivers side and then front seal on passengers side, then replaced same seal on passengers side, now rear seal leaking again..having it changed. Why?? Or what I need to do? Its being done at the dealership....
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 Audi A6 3.0 Quattro with a frustrating problem! There is a leak in the car causing the rear right floorboard to fill with water. I had it into the dealer in Oct. 2010 where they replaced the rear right window channels & seals & found the plenum drains & sunroof drainage to be ok, no blockage. I also had to replace the transmission module as it was filled with water from the leak! I have had problems with the rotation rate sensor & oxy sensor to the point of the ESP kicking on the anti-lock brakes at 60 mph, and have replace both of these sensors, thinking that was probably related to this leak also. I was vacuuming out the car today and found the floorboard to be wet AGAIN! The dealer just keeps the car for weeks trying to find this leak..
View 2 RepliesI wanted to bring attention to an oil leak I discovered today. It appears to be from the rear main seal. My Passat is a 2015 1.8Tsi with the 09G auto. You can see the leak with the belly pan on. From the front of the car, looking through the vent for the transmission pan look at the lowest point on the bellhousing there is a small machined flat area. Pictured is that area (with the pan off). There is also oil on the back side of the bellhousing on one of the main bolts between the block and trans. The three rear bolts on the pan need to come off to see that one. I would recommend looking at this area on your Passat. Currently my Passat has 3,490 miles on. It's not a terrible leak, but it is worse than what should be present on a modern, new vehicle.
View 16 RepliesI have a 1996 Toyota Camry it has a small leak-from the "Rear Main Seal" Very expensive to repair. I can't afford that at this time. I put in Valvoline Maxlife for older cars, sealed for couple mnthsnow its leaking again. Its not PCV. Would it damage other car parts? " Blue Devil Rear Main Seal Stop Leak and Conditioner"...
View 6 RepliesMy girfriend's 2000 Elantra with 175,000 m leaks oil from it's rear main seal, which was replaced once before. Her mechanic has told her that it's not worth replacing again, because the groove it fits in has widened and can never be sealed completely. Does this make sense?
View 5 RepliesI have a 1996 Toyota Camry it has a small leak-from the "Rear Main Seal" Very expensive to repair $800 I cant afford that at this time. My question is: can this product be tried as as temporary fix or if it works? Would it damage other car parts? " Blue Devil Rear Main Seal Stop Leak and Conditioner.
View 7 RepliesI just had trans rebuilt in my 98 4x4 4.0 ranger I thought while they had the trans out go ahead and replace rear seal. Got the truck back leaking bad carried it back they claim to have replaced it twice while they had it and guaranteed it was not leaking they say the leak is from the oil pan so I'm gonna pull the motor this week. Question is: can make an offset rear seal I still believe this is the problem. Which oil pan gasket to use.
View 4 RepliesThis is a photo of my '79 F250 4x4 rear axle (Dana 60 full floater) this seal will leak in a few miles ..what I need is the part number of a replacement seal made like the one in the lower photo ..it seems that Ford no longer has this seal.
Notice the increased distance from the bearing to the sealing lip in this photo ..the sealing lip on the new seal in the upper photo lies almost on the bearing, this one just barely engages the seal surface on the axle stub. I can machine the bearing pocket deeper to cause the seal to move farther onto the sealing surface, but that would also cause the bearings to be closer together, and may cause problems there.
2004 automatic 88,000 miles 2wd
When I bought the truck it had a very small oil leak that would drip out of the bell housing between the housing and the inspection pan. it would leave a quarter (25cents) sized stain on the ground and would only drip for 10 minutes or so after I shut it off. in 3000 miles it would be down 1/2 quart of oil...
Well 3 weeks ago I stopped and noticed a HUGE stain now. I checked the oil and was 1 quart low. I filled it then I drove 90 miles the final week before parking and was down another 1/2 quart...
I am figuring the rear main seal is gone. I did some research and it seems these are common to go in the 3.0? What seal is the best to get? should I get the seal right from the dealer? or I will run into the same problem and go with a after market? I also learned that the crank shafts can get a groove in them and it's good to put a new "speedy seal" where can I get one of those?
Also for some strange reason I take the tranny out and the rear main is good ( I seriously doubt it) is there anything else that could be leaking that I should check when I have the tranny out? Can I remove the tranny with the factory exhaust still in place? it looks like it can squeeze just by it?
New issue this week - truck developed a leak from the pinion seal. I'm not sure how much has leaked out, so I would like to top it off before limping to the dealership.
From the manual: "Motorcraft SAE 75W-140 Rear Synthetic Axle Lubricant" There is also a footnote for friction modifier required for a Trans-Loc rear diff. Assuming that footnote refers to an LSD and NOT the E-Locker, should be able to top off with just the fluid, correct?
I am a die hard for Truck fan but am really disappointed with the overall quality of the truck. I bought it new and now with 30k, I've had it in twice to have rotors turned, once for transmission getting stuck in 5th and needed a new molded leadframe assembly, and now the pinion leak. All fixed under warranty, however really unacceptable for a truck with this low of miles and an easy life.
Our 2010 AWD RX350 developed a rear differential oil leak (passenger side) at the drive shaft lip seal. Has 80,000.
View 5 Replies2014 RX 350 - 8700 miles - Rear Main Seal Leak
Very disappointed that my new RX with only 8700 miles and has never even had an oil change now has a rear main seal leak. The dealership says that the gasket was defective and that there is no other visible damage. The dealership has filed a case with Lexus corporate.
Granted that it will soon be fixed at no cost to me, it's still very disappointing that a brand I hold so high for quality has let me down in such a big way.
Looking for a video, pictures, or steps that are in depth on how to replace my rear seals and bearings? They are leaking very badly and would like to see some other ways to get it done.
View 3 Replies2014 RX 350 - 10,300 miles - Rear Main Seal Leak #2
Brought car into the dealership to repair my rear main for a second time. Looks like every 5,000 miles the leak shows up.
The dealership has repaired the rear main seal a second time, and guess what?
Two days later at the dealership the car started leaking oil again.
So now it's been identified that the entire short block needs to be replaced. Should take another week to repair.
This has been the worst experience I've ever had with a new car. Now I have a relatively new car (10,300 miles) that has had 2 rear main seals repaired, a short block replaced, replaced front parking sensors, and a radio that displays the wrong time when first starting the car.
I have a 2000 F250 4x4 7.3 - About a month ago I drove across town and then noticed a strong hot brake smell from the rear of the truck. When I drove home about 2 hours later it was gone and didn't return until today. Today I stopped at a light with my window down and got the same hot brake smell, looked in the mirror and saw smoke coming from my drive's side rear wheel.
I carefully drove home (the smoke was now gone, all i did was cycle the parking brake release a couple of times) and pulled the wheel off. Rotor was really hot but smooth and clean. Brake caliper and pads looked great (no sign of the pads glazing or dragging, dry as a bone). The inside of the rotor was wet with oil. The brake shoes and components were soaked with the same fluid/oil.
Does this sound like a typical hub seal issue? Excuse my ignorance since I haven't had the rear hubs apart before but does the gear oil in the rear diff go into the axle tubes? I know the front tubes are dry but I didn't know if the rears are different. The amount of fluid on the brakes seems to be more than the little bit that is inside the hub. I need to pick up the parts and rent/purchase a couple of tools to replace the seal so I want to be as sure as possible that I'm on the right track...
If I use ATP AT-205 stop leak to stop a slow leak coming from the rear main seal, will it last a long time? And if it stopped working eventually, would adding more stop the leak again?
Also, I'm going to have the transmission out anyway, so how many hours would it probably take to just replace the seal at that point? And someone told me some seals were two halves that fit together as one, and others are just all one piece. Is that true? It would seem to me that a two piece seal like that would start leaking prematurely.
Took the torque converter cover off and this is what I see. Before I took it off the cover looked oily. Prev I replaced the EGR valve and some other sensors and there was oil on top of the engine. Does this look like a rear main seal or oil dripping from the top of the engine?
View 4 RepliesI was looking underneath the truck yesterday and saw that the rear end pinion seal was leaking. Looked like it had been for a while. Truck has 35,850 miles on it. Unscrewed the fill plug and a lot of pressure is released. So I'm assuming the breather is clogged somewhere along the line. I have an appointment at the dealer on Friday to see whats wrong. What is supposed to be at the end of the breather tube? Mine has a barbed 45ish degree fitting on the end of it. Its a SRW by the way.
View 5 Repliesmy audi tt 2003 convertible turbo has had trouble starting. the engine turns over just fine and up untill now it has caught, albeit a little slow. now I note that it still catches, about every 3rd try, but unlike before it isn't staying on no matter how much I try to rev the engine. We just had the spark plugs and 2 coils replaced. There's a coolant leak through the sensor housing (we have the part for that but hubby doesn't want to fix it) but we do keep coolant at sufficient levels. problem seems to get worse on colder mornings, but is not affected by cold in the evening. Yes, the check engine light is on. The codes have been read and it's coming up as the temp sensor (which part we purchased, but hubby doesn't want to install).
View 3 RepliesI found oil leaking out of my audi (model above) this morning. it runs great, but is leaving a small puddle every time I park. I looked underneath and there is oil collected in many places. Its not pouring but slow drip when the engine is hot. More to the front of the car. Its not happening at the washer to the crank to drain oil.
View 11 RepliesI recently had my rear axle seals replaced due to leaking. Does the rear diff fluid get replaced on that repair since the rear diff cover comes off? Trying to figure out when my next interval for changing rear diff fluid should be.
View 1 Replies