I have a 2006 Audi A4 with about 90,000 miles on it. Recently, the engine has been making a clicking noise when it is warming up. Once the engine is warm it stops. No, performance problems, just the sound. It got an oil change recently (I always use synthetic oil), but the sound was occuring before and after the oil change. What it could be?
View 4 RepliesIn the summer months when the air conditioning is in use, there is a back up of water. i can hear the water sloshing sound when the air is on and when making sharp turns it actually drains out on the front floor, both driver and passenger sides. it has also overflowed out the backseat air vents. my mechanic has told me the drain on this vehicle is tiny and becomes clogged easily. the car is parked in my garage, not left out in the elements so i disagree.
View 1 RepliesLast June I took my 2001 Audi A4 off the road since I bought a more fuel efficient commuter car but I wanted to keep the Audi in the family until my oldest son started driving. That day has come and I'm making the car drivable again. I pulled the battery over the winter and kept it on a Battery Tender. I put it back in over the weekend and the car started up up and runs just fine. The only problem is that the rotors are extremely rusted and make a horrific grinding noise. Is there anything I can do to remove this rust? I assume I can just grind it off with the brake pads but that can't be good for the brakes which, if I recall correctly, are fairly new.
View 5 RepliesThis is after a few minutes of the car warming up.. I'm concerned do to the fact that I've only owned the car for two weeks .
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When I'm leaving the house and I pull out onto the street, I have to go close up a very annoying gate which takes a good few minutes to do. The car is still in it's warm up mode so the ICE is running the whole time. I know just turning it off would save gas, but would it be bad for the engine, to turn it off with the key before it shuts itself off?
View 9 RepliesBasically, when driving shortly after turning on the car (when the engine is still warming up) I often experience a 'shot' of acceleration despite not further depressing the accelerator. In other words, I'll be driving along smoothly and suddenly the car will speed up slightly by itself without me having done anything. This only occurs when the HSI is past the middle (i.e. when the engine is powering the car) and when the car has recently been switched on. It's almost as if the sensor that detects my acceleration is re-calibrating itself while I'm driving, increasing the input to the engine.
The first time it happened it was a bit of a shock and I was a little scared, however I'm used to it by now and can anticipate it happening (however it doesn't happen 100% of the time). It's nothing too serious - it probably only accelerates a couple of KMs above what I'm actually doing but still is a bit of a worry. I'll be taking it in for a service shortly and seeing what they say about.
My car has developed a strange engine/transmission shudder that occurs only between the temps of 32-50F. It happens when the car is still warming up, when I pull up to a red light and put my foot on the brake pedal the front end makes a vibrating/shuddering noise. You can only hear it from the inside, it sounds like something under the hood or maybe dash is vibrating.
If I shift into neutral or park it goes away. It looks like the RPM drops in drive, but it won't happen when the car is warmed up or if its colder (20F) or warmer out (50F). I recently installed a front strut bar, but I'm not sure it's responsible for causing the vibration I'm hearing.
I checked the oil level this morning, it's right at the full mark. I might try some injector cleaner but it's worth noting Hyundai recommends frequent spark plug replacement in these engines. I believe the manual states to change the spark plugs at 45K, more frequently if the car idles or is driven at slow speeds. I've also seen the 2011 manual indicate to change the plugs out at 22.5K.
I have purchased a 2010 III Prius with 73K miles last week after my 2006, everything is fine for me but I have a scary problem , the engine sound is very high while driving even after enough warming up, specially when the ECO meter reaches the PWR area or when accelerating hardly, I tried changing the engine oil with synthetic 0W-20 and the filter and the sound still the same.
Check the video attached and also note that
- Its winter here and temp is 50F.
- The car was imported from the US,
- The speed in the video in KM/h.
- I am using clean OCTANE 95 fuel.
- The video was after driving 20 Miles.
- I have latest version of Techstream with original Mongoose MFC...
I have a 2003 Jaguar X-type that gives me trouble when the temperature drops below 32 degrees. I have to warm it for at least 10 minutes. During that time it coughs and sputters and my check engine light flashes. Once the light stops flashing I am able to drive. What is going on?
View 5 RepliesThe engine "pings" shortly after I get in and drive it when the car is warming up. I watch the engine temp rise...and when it starts to get warm just before the thermostat opens and the temp drops the car "ping or pre-detonate" when the accelerator is gently pressed. After the engine warms up... no problems. I drove it from Port Angeles Wa to southern Oregon with out it ever happening... but when I drive a short distance to town it consistently happens. I have checked what I know how to but beyond that it seems odd. Its it normal for the engine temp to rise up warmer than the normal operating temp, and then drop back down? The thermostat was recently replaced. It seems something is creating excess vacuumduring the warmup time that makes the engine ping. All the vacuum gizmos and gadgets make me crazy...
View 1 RepliesThis morning I went to start my car and while the engine was warming up (it's carbureted, not fuel injected) I heard a strange sound that I can only describe as sort of a "gulp" or something. As I was driving to the doctor, at one point I was going up a slight hill so I went to accelerate and the RPMs reved up but I didn't go any faster than I was going, which was about 30-35mph. What's going on here? 1987 Honda Accord LX....
View 4 RepliesAudi 99 a6 quattro. Motor turns, battery is fine. Engine does not ignite. Spark happens but the engine does not hold. After 5 mins car starts. Once its warm no problem starting. Cold start is the issue. what do you think is issue? fuel injection, fuel pump???. I have seen the car stall on second gear sometimes on high throttle, reduce throttle it will come back on. I am suspecting some issue with fuel injection????
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 F250 7.3 4WD automatic with 313,000 miles. A week ago it started stalling after it idled for 10 minutes. It acted like it wasn't getting fuel. It would sputter a few times then just quit. I changed the fuel filter and the truck ran fine the rest of the day. Since that day, it has acted the same way every morning at 1st startup. It idles fine for 10-20 minutes (depending on how cold it is outside), then hesitates a little, then stops. After going through 3 new fuel filters (thinking I had bad fuel), I stopped putting in a new filter every morning, and found that if I just waited 4 or 5 minutes, it would start and run fine after that. It then runs fine the rest of the day.
After it stalls, it will not start right away. I need to wait a few minutes. I've tried draining the fuel filter bowl also. No luck. I tried a new Cam Positioning Sensor. It seems to be related to temperature. It's been getting down to 30 degrees Fahrenheit the past few mornings. It starts fine and idles fine until the temp gauge just starts to move. Then, the stall happens. My fill-up just prior to this happening was with B20 Bio Diesel. I suspected that for a while. But, I've ran all that fuel through plus 4 or 5 regular diesel tanks through, so I no longer think it was related to that. It do see the check engine light when it stalls. I had a shop read my codes and the only code was bad KAM memory. The mechanic said that code shows up all the time on these engines and not to worry about it.
We recently bought a 2002 Audi A4 and everything seemed good and a while ago the engine began to make a ticking sound and it said it needs oil, but when we checked the oil it was full and a local mechanic said it heard like a piston but they are well oiled.
View 13 RepliesMy 2014 Audi A6 is running fine, but the check engine light has come on twice. I brought it to the dealer and they said that the "fuel level sensor circuit range/performance" is the problem, but that Audi does not have a solution for this problem! Weird that they have an indicator light for something they can't fix. They assure me that it's nothing to worry about, but I'm not feeling very reassured by Audi these days. They reset the engine light, but it came back on again. Does this sound right?
View 14 Repliesmy audi tt 2003 convertible turbo has had trouble starting. the engine turns over just fine and up untill now it has caught, albeit a little slow. now I note that it still catches, about every 3rd try, but unlike before it isn't staying on no matter how much I try to rev the engine. We just had the spark plugs and 2 coils replaced. There's a coolant leak through the sensor housing (we have the part for that but hubby doesn't want to fix it) but we do keep coolant at sufficient levels. problem seems to get worse on colder mornings, but is not affected by cold in the evening. Yes, the check engine light is on. The codes have been read and it's coming up as the temp sensor (which part we purchased, but hubby doesn't want to install).
View 3 RepliesI am considering buying a used 2013 Audi Q5 with 25K miles. The day I was supposed to see the SUV the check engine light came on-. The catalytic converter had to be replaced. The dealership could not give a good reason why this happened. During the winter, the owner backed into a pile of snow--and dented the under panel in the rear that has since been replaced.
View 19 RepliesI found oil leaking out of my audi (model above) this morning. it runs great, but is leaving a small puddle every time I park. I looked underneath and there is oil collected in many places. Its not pouring but slow drip when the engine is hot. More to the front of the car. Its not happening at the washer to the crank to drain oil.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2004 Audi A6 wagon that's got 105k miles on it. A couple months ago, the check engine light came on while I was driving it. While it was on, it was flashing and the car felt like it was shuddering, like there was not enough gas getting to the engine. Then the CIL stopped flashing. It happened several times during my short outing that day, but then it never happened again. Now the flashing CIL is back and the car feels the same way when it's happening. I took it to an auto parts store to get the trouble codes read and the guy said P0300 (random cylinder misfire) and P0305 (cylinder 5 misfire) came up.
View 18 RepliesI have a 2002 Audi a6 Quattro 2.7t. Recently my fiancée filled up my gas tank and when he did this he continued to pump fuel into the tank even though the automatic shut off trigger had released. In doing so he said he filled it to the point that it was just about to spill out. The first 1/8 of a tank the car drove like normal. Then all of a sudden i very very briefly could smell an odor of rotten eggs. The following morning my car had loss of power to the point that i parked it. My fiancée was reading about how to fill the tank properly and when he did he went ahead and released the gas cap and at that point he said he heard a bubbling noise come from the tank. My car is drivable now but not up to par. It slightly sputters (bogged) at take off still. What else it could be ?
View 2 RepliesI hear a knocking sound for a few seconds from the rear of my 2004 Audi S4 when I turn the key to the on position. It is independent of the engine, this knocking occurs with or without starting the engine. Here is a recording of the sound: [URL] ..... What could be making that noise?
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