'01 Audi A6 2.7T, has 97k...I noticed the car making a loud clacking/taping sound at idle that didn't change even when car warmed up. Check engine light came on today...codes P1340 and P0341 both deal with camshaft being "out of sequence" on bank #1.
View 7 RepliesI'm having some problems with my 05 1.8T GTI. I've had a check engine light for about 3 months and finally got a diagnostic tool (VAG V-checker). Right now I have one code 17748.P1340 Camshaft position sensor-G40/engine speed sensor -G28: incorrect allocation.
I researched a little bit and talked with some of the guys at the local VW dealership. From what I learned this could be related to (obviously) faulty camshaft position sensor and/or faulty engine speed sensor. So I've replaced both of these sensors and even cleaned the Mass Airflow sensor.
I cleared the code and after driving about 5 minutes the code came back. Also I recently had a P0300 and P0304 cylinder 4 misfire default code. So I've changed all of the ignition coils too since I heard they were recalled a while back.
I have a 2000 Pontiac Montana 3.4L V6. I keep getting code p0341 cam shaft sensor (replace), and code p0443 P0443....EVAP Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit. I was getting p0441...Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow (but I replace Canister Purge Valve that up top center right). I have also replace spark plugs and wires because it didn't seam to have any power.
(After I replace both the cam shaft sensor and purge valve) Now it does have good power but if I am moving at very low speed either stopping or starting it will almost die sometimes and sometimes it does die. If it actually dies it seams to give both the P0341 & p0443 codes but if it doesn't die and code light comes on after resetting it, it is just the p0443 code.
I hear a knocking sound for a few seconds from the rear of my 2004 Audi S4 when I turn the key to the on position. It is independent of the engine, this knocking occurs with or without starting the engine. Here is a recording of the sound: [URL] ..... What could be making that noise?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2005 f250 just hit 180k last week and it has the 6.0 in it, egr deleted, sinister diesel oil cooler, stc livewire tuner with street tune installed, air raid air intake. Wicked wheel 2 in the turbo. Its throwing codes P0606 and P0341. Cam sensor has been replaced and the other code is a mystery to me. Its been randomly shutting off like you turned off the ignition all day today.
When it stalls it takes 3-4 times to get it fire back up. When you first go to start it the pressure gauge reads 0 but once it fires up it says theres pressure. Also some of the days it never stalls and runs like a champ but other days i cant drive more the 10 feet and then it stalls. I have no idea whats going on with this truck and ive put lots of money into it doing customization and stuff like that so I am hoping that its not on its last leg....
A few days ago, my 2002 Land Rover Discovery ran out of gas. I've never run out of gas before and when I called AAA and found out that it was just a gas problem my relief outweighed any embarrassment I had about the situation. The AAA guy and I filled the car up and poof- I was on my way..... Since then, the check engine light has come on and although the car runs great when it gets going, it's the getting going part that has become tricky. When I turn the key to start the car, it makes a clank clank chug sound. To get it going, I have to step on the gas and turn the key at the same time. If I do that, the car runs as normal and everything is fine.
I read the reviews for mechanics and have an appointment set. Is it possible that because the car was out of gas, that something else got burned up or junk got into the engine? How a car works but I'm imagining a empty tank that is supposed to feed into something and if nothing is there couldn't residue in the tank get sucked into the thing that it is supposed to feed?
I have an 03' Ranger and I assume it has the BW 1354 tcase. I am getting a "clank" sound when the truck shifts from 1st to 2nd. I am thinking its the rear output yoke on the t case. I can grab it and move it up and down but there is no fluid leaking or anything. Would this be a rear bearing problem?
View 2 RepliesLast year my wife and I purchased a 2011 certified pre-owned tiguan from a local VW dealership which will stay anonymous atm. This past weekend we were driving home and noticed a rattle coming from the engine upon acceleration or around 2k-3k. The EPC light and check engine light both flash one time whenever this happens but never stay on. I scanned the car and found a pending p0341.
I know about the timing tensioner so I waited until the car cooled completely and went outside about 1am and started the car, sure enough it made the star-up rattle.
We took it back to the dealer and they diagnosed it with a failed timing chain and camshaft and are going to replace the components. I'm guessing by failed timing chain they mean the tensioner.
I own an 04 Hyundai Elantra with around 196,000 miles on it, and have run across a problem I haven't had to deal with before. A few days ago, my check engine light came on while driving. I didn't really notice much, but when I started it again it began idling roughly. I got it home and pulled the code, which was P0341 (camshaft position sensor). This isn't the first sensor I've had go on the car (I replaced an oxygen sensor and throttle position sensor a couple years ago), however I ran into two problems:
1. How likely is it that it's the sensor that's bad as opposed to something like the timing belt or VVT adjustment?
2. Since the sensor isn't horribly expensive, I decided to try replacing it, but I can't get any socket to fit on the bolt that secures it. I've heard it's a 10mm, but nothing seems to fit snugly. Maybe there's just so much crud and corrosion that it's ruined the head. I tried using an extraction socket, but no luck.
Code 0341 (cam sensor?)On my way home epc light flashed about 5-7 times and message saying service engine. 111,000 miles and just had intake manifold replaced and plugs and coils not to long ago. I have been feeling a slight hiccup at cruising speed and twice my gti has just shut off while driving. New fuel filter as well. I searched the forum and didn't come up with anything specific. Can I just replace the cam sensor or is there more to it than that.
View 1 RepliesMy 2003 Camry with 160k miles is running OK but the check engine light came on and P0341, P0352 and P0354 are displayed with my code checker. I looked up the three codes and could not determine anything that would cause all three codes to display at the same time. I plan to reset the codes to see if and how fast they come back. Is there anything common that could cause all three to display at the same time?
View 1 RepliesI took my 2011 c30 in for its 30000 mile routine service to a local Volvo dealer service dept in Sept 2014 and ever since I am hearing an intermittent clank after starting the engine. I also hear the noise while driving (it eventually stops after a while) and for about 10 minutes after shutting the engine down. The time between clanks is about 20 - 30 seconds. It is a single clank sound (like metal hitting metal). The car operates fine and no warning messages.
I took it back to the Volvo dealer service dept and after 2 days they were perplexed, and asked me to bring it back the following week when their Master mechanic was in-house, which I did.
They had the car for 5 more days and never could diagnose the issue and were told by Volvo HQ to give the car back to me. The service dept told me they sent all the info, including documentation and audio of the noise to Volvo HQ and that I would hear back from them.
Here is the response I finally received on Feb 18 from the service manager: "I spoke with tech again on this matter. Tech reviewed the case and the notes from Volvo. The noise concern has been left open ended for now until the noise gets worse as per Volvo. Or if they have other cases of this same concern with other same type cars/engines. At that time Volvo would contact us if there is a repair that needs to be done and we would contact you. Otherwise there is no additional diagnostics and or inspections to be done unless its getting much worse. As per Volvo and tech."
The car is under warranty for 1 more year, and my next service (37,500) won't be until the fall as I don't drive much. The noise is still the same, not better or worse. It still drives fine and there are no warning lights. However, I don't like leaving this opened-ended.
The issue is with my 1999 Audi A6 Quattro, I have driven 205,000 miles on the car and after 100K I started doing the maintenance. There is a sound coming from the front driver side, when you drive the car through a bumpy or gravel road, which sounds like “click, clank, click, clank”, to me its origin is from the suspension or the shock absorber. Both control arms were replaced due to misdiagnosis. Even the local maintenance shop can’t identify the issue, even after doing an alignment and inspection. I am not seeing any uneven ware out on the front tire.
View 10 RepliesI'm setting up a 9v 20mA 5mm LED array for some DRLs, but I'm worrying a little too much about my power supply. I remember reading about a year ago to tap into the windshield wiper motor for a 12V source. I know I'll need to get some resistors for that.
View 1 RepliesIn the summer months when the air conditioning is in use, there is a back up of water. i can hear the water sloshing sound when the air is on and when making sharp turns it actually drains out on the front floor, both driver and passenger sides. it has also overflowed out the backseat air vents. my mechanic has told me the drain on this vehicle is tiny and becomes clogged easily. the car is parked in my garage, not left out in the elements so i disagree.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 PT Cruiser.
I noticed 3 distinctive noises; All of them coming from the front weel(s).
1) While driving, the car makes a boiling-kettle like sound, all the time.
2) Also while driving, it occasionally makes a taping sound (like tapping shoes). I checked all four tires and none have pebbels or nails/metal stuck to them. I do not know how or why it is making such sound
3) Finally, while breaking, the front wheels (specially the front left; driver side) makes a horrible loud squeaky sound.
After a long drive, I stopped worrying about the noises. I inspected the tires and noticed that both front wheels (rims) were super hot. I compared the temperature with the ones on the back and they where cold.
I just replaced my timing belt. Checked it at TDC several times, even after releasing the tensioner. Now Im getting a
17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Incor. Correlation
P1340 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded
Audi 99 a6 quattro. Motor turns, battery is fine. Engine does not ignite. Spark happens but the engine does not hold. After 5 mins car starts. Once its warm no problem starting. Cold start is the issue. what do you think is issue? fuel injection, fuel pump???. I have seen the car stall on second gear sometimes on high throttle, reduce throttle it will come back on. I am suspecting some issue with fuel injection????
View 3 RepliesI am slamming my head on this. I have a 2004 R32 with two codes for camshaft sensors. I noticed and replaced the timing chains because they were stretched out and a tensioner was not holding the chains. I still have these faults in the system. I also checked with my Ross-Tech and in measure block 208 and 209, third blocks that there is nothing showing. Both coming up blank.
I then brought it to the dealer and telling them that the chains were replaced for this reason. They have checked the timing to make sure it is correct and timed. They checked the wiring and they said there is a connection from the sensor to ECU. They replaced the ECU but still have the same issue. They too cannot see the blocks for 208 and 209.
They informed me today that there is a confusion of the signal wire from both of the sensors reading 11 volts on each signal wire but the voltage from the ECU is 5 volts. They asked me to cut the wire from the ECU and check the output directly from the ECU and that too is showing 11 volts with key on. Key off shows nothing. They don't know if that is correct or not.
So I started up my 12v VR6 the other morning and it sounded like a Subie. Threw the awful code P1340: cam/crankshaft sensor out of sequence, and took it to the shop. I'm being charged $1900 for servicing the timing chains, only. Doesn't include water pump and clutch like every other shop does. Reason for this is because in Montana, no one works on these cars. So I this is my only route. I had to choose this small euro repair shop or the VW dealer.
But, they just recently called me and told me I need to get the timing gears changed or whatever? They want to charge an additional $600 or so to do that. Are these gears a real problem? or are they just trying to F me. I mean, $1900 should make this car flawless as it is so I feel that they are attempting to rip me off even more.
We recently bought a 2002 Audi A4 and everything seemed good and a while ago the engine began to make a ticking sound and it said it needs oil, but when we checked the oil it was full and a local mechanic said it heard like a piston but they are well oiled.
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