Audi - A6 :: Check Engine Light Flashing And Car Shuddering
Nov 21, 2011
I have a 2004 Audi A6 wagon that's got 105k miles on it. A couple months ago, the check engine light came on while I was driving it. While it was on, it was flashing and the car felt like it was shuddering, like there was not enough gas getting to the engine. Then the CIL stopped flashing. It happened several times during my short outing that day, but then it never happened again. Now the flashing CIL is back and the car feels the same way when it's happening. I took it to an auto parts store to get the trouble codes read and the guy said P0300 (random cylinder misfire) and P0305 (cylinder 5 misfire) came up.
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Let me start with some background. 2001 B5.5 Passat Sedan 1.8T 5spd Completely Stock 156,000 miles. So, tonight i head for the grocery store about 5 minutes up the street. I get about half way there, when I notice that the check engine light is flashing. I ease off the gas, and coax it to the next light. At the light, the car feels like it might stall out, and the car seems to shudder, and I notice that the shudder is connected to the RPM of the motor. Meaning, if i rev the motor the shudder gets faster.
I manage to coax the car home to my driveway, and I leave it in a position easy to be towed. So, i figure that I will leave the car running, and look under the hood, but as soon as I open the drivers door, i can smell something burning/smoldering. I shut off the engine, and carefully open the hood. I find no smoke or fire, but I see that the downpipe (or whatever pipe the exhaust coming from the turbo leaves through) is glowing red hot.
I am not sure what happened. The car gave no other obvious symptoms. The other things I should mention though, are that I change my own oil. Always Mobil 1 with a Audi or at least german filter. However, my father was the original owner, and for the first 60k he used conventional oil. The turbo has always been strong, and seemed to deliver full boost. I do not know if it is still boosting in light of recent events.
For the last few weeks, the check engine light has been on and off. My mechanic scanned it a few times, and told me that it was the "Air Injection Pump Code". My understanding is that this system basically divers exhaust gas into the Cat when the car is warming up. If its not working properly, then it is just a emission problem.
I should also mention, that the car has recently been leaking a little bit of water when there is a hard rain storm. On Saturday, I took the rain tray cover off, checked the Pollen Filter, and removed the battery in order to clear out the drain plugs under the battery tray, and the brake master cylinder. As I write this, I begin to wonder if its possible that something just went very wrong with the Air Injection System.
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I have a 2004 Audi A6 wagon that has an intermittently flashing check engine light. I took it to the dealership to have the codes read and they told me that they got codes for Cylinder 2 and Cylinder 5 misfires. Additionally they got a code saying the Engine Coolant Temperature Sender was electronically faulty. What is this part and what does it do? Is it essential to fix it immediately?
The dealership recommended changing the spark plugs and the air filters for the cylinder misfire issue. We are also talking about replacing the timing belt since the car has 105k miles on it. I know there are several other parts that are replaced during the timing belt replacement (like the water pump, thermostat, oil seals, etc). Is it essential to replace these items if there is no immediate need to do so?
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My 2014 Audi A6 is running fine, but the check engine light has come on twice. I brought it to the dealer and they said that the "fuel level sensor circuit range/performance" is the problem, but that Audi does not have a solution for this problem! Weird that they have an indicator light for something they can't fix. They assure me that it's nothing to worry about, but I'm not feeling very reassured by Audi these days. They reset the engine light, but it came back on again. Does this sound right?
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I am considering buying a used 2013 Audi Q5 with 25K miles. The day I was supposed to see the SUV the check engine light came on-. The catalytic converter had to be replaced. The dealership could not give a good reason why this happened. During the winter, the owner backed into a pile of snow--and dented the under panel in the rear that has since been replaced.
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2004 Audi A6 2.7 T quattro ... Check engine light comes on and three mechanics all say i need new torque converter even tho i have no symptoms as yet. Will I get symptoms eventually, or could this be an electrical issue. When they turn off the warning light, it takes a day or so to come back on. There has been no reduction of mileage, no gear slipping, no problem accelerating.
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My Ford Escape was just serviced at 120K Miles. After about two weeks it started shuddering between 40 and 55 miles an hour. It got worse and after about 4 weeks the Check engine light came on. I took it back to my mechanic and the read out said it had a misfiring piston. What does this mean exactly? How does one fix it, prevent it from happening again?
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2011 eb just turned 36k. Today on breezeway it shuddered like it swallowed a bird, and check engine light flashed on. Went to see customer left and light was off. Back on breezeway and shuddered on entrance ramp so this time I stayed into it so either there's a light that will stay on or just launch it and this time the dealer will have something to fix that they can diagnose. Check engine light is on its fine as long as I stay out of the pedal. Still have 8 months left on power train warranty but what am I looking at for a diagnose, there is definitely a problem now. What the dealership should see?
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I have a 2006 F150 4x4 5.4. For a long time it idled poorly and would take 2 trys to start. Today it started shuddering and the engine light came on. The engine light went off but it still runs rough and smells of gas from the exhaust. It is not very drivable and I can't afford to take it in. I have lots of mechanical experience but not with this electronic junk and need diagnosing the problem. I have a code tester and this is what it said.
P0301 Cyl 1 Miss
P0304 Cyl 4 Miss
P0300 Random Multiple Misfire Detected
P2196 O2 Sensor Signal
Biased/ Stuck Rich
Bank 1 Sensor 1
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I have a 1998 expedition 4.6 4x4 check engine light on od light flashing sometimes checked it and got p1747 code i was told epc solenoid or short on trans wiring. I already dropped the trans pan, looking for a step by step easy way to diagnose and find the short or if i need to replace any of the solenoids. I have voltmeter and taste light....
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I've got a 2006 B9 with about 64,000 miles. Just a bit ago my check engine and ABS light came on, along with my cruise light flashing.
After researching a little bit on the forums and couldn't find an answer, I took it into the dealer, to which I was told that there was a bad oil pressure sensor for the right-hand side of the motor. I had them replace it out, and less than 20 miles down the road, the same lights appeared on my instrument cluster, and I took it back to the dealer. They informed me that there was now a bad sensor on the left hand side that would be another $380. I scheduled an appointment for later next week, and had them reset the error.
On the same day, about 2 hours later the lights reappeared on my dash, and I took the car over to a local parts store, where I used their scanner and the car now spit the following errors:
Camshaft position actuator A - Bank 1 timing over advan.
Camshaft position actuator A - Bank 2 timing over advan
Cam/crankshaft pos. correlation sensor A - Bank 2
Cam/crankshaft pos. Correlation sensor A - Bank 1
Camshaft position actuator A bank 1 timing over - advan
Camshaft position adctuator A bank 2 timing over -advan
Cam/crankshaft pos correlation sensor A - bank 1
I reset the codes, and waited another day for the lights to reappear on the dash. Again, I rescanned the errors, and found the same top 5 codes that I listed above.
Is there something more major going on here with the computer?
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Had an issue with "check" engine light turning on and "cruise" control light flashing, intermittently. Dealer said we had dirty oil contaminating some solenoid valves in the system but we had just done an oil change and do so every 3-5K (car has 170K). They recommended switching around the sensors and doing an "oil flush" with another oil change. The warning light problem hasn't recurred, in the past month, since we started giving the gas cap a few extra turns after a fill-up. We're getting ready to buy a new car and don't want to give what might be a serious problem over to the next owner.
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I have a 2007 L.L. Bean Edition Forester. The cruise light is flashing and check engine light is solid. I am well into my retirement age and nearest dealer is about 2 hours away. Is this something that local mechanic can fix? He is very good, but not Subaru schooled. I'm afraid to drive it now.
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Have a Volvo XC70 and LOVE it! Recently ETS light came on and Check engine has always been on, mechanics did not seem to worried in past. As of the last month seemed to be issue with thermostat... Car would warm to normal when idling and driving below 25 mph... once I accelerated needle would drop and thermostat would go to baseline... Could feel faint warm air, but was only getting cold air coming from vents... Thought it might be thermostat stuck open?
Called my trusted mechanic and he recommended going to a radiator specialist, felt he might not be able to solve. Went to new shop today, after dropping off at 8am when they opened and not hearing from them until 4:45pm, 15 minutes before they close... Car is fixed, or so they say. Hot air is indeed coming out of vents and needle is staying where it should without falling...
BUT, now there is a strange smell (sulfur"ish") coming from the engine, and the car is shuddering and vibrating, bucking almost when car comes to a stop and then accelerates. ETS light is back on and check engine is now flashing!?! Tried going up hill on the way home and could not go faster than 20mph? None of this was happening before I took it in to the new shop today? They changed oil and oil filter and flushed radiater?
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Get in my car, try to start it and BAM it hits me. As I turn the key, the engine cranks up quick, kinda too quick, if you ask me. As I go to adjust my radio, I feel my car start to jump around and shake pretty rough. As I look at my gauges, I see my check engine light start to flash. So instead of trying to drive away, I turn it off and try to start it again. Same thing happens!! So I try it again and finally a normal start. Whew, I thought that was close. But oddly enough my check engine light comes on and stays on this time, no more flashing and the engine feels fine. What the problem could be? Is it safe to drive my car?
2000 Buick Park Avenue 3.8 auto....
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As the title says, my CEL goes on and flashes too.
I've read up a bit on why the CEL comes on/flash and it says it has something to do with the exhaust system and if continue operating will damage the catalyst converter (which I don't understand since I'm a car dummy.
In addition, the engine vibrates like crazy. I can feel the engine vibrating when I'm inside the car as well.
I already got the car tolled to the dealership and they kinda just told me it might be misfirings and then they said they couldn't locate the problem. So my car basically has to stay there until they open again on Monday and hopefully they will figure out the problem/fix it under the warranty and call me back.
The problem arise late Friday night and I just did a 30K maintenance on Thursday. (but the car already has 43,000 miles on it).
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If you get a f!ashing cel ,the next time you start it should it flash right away or can it go back to solid on cell? 02 Accent 1.6 130 k. What can be done to check the flex pipe for a leak? Can you spray water or what? The outside looks good. Also looks hard to check around intake manifold for leaks.
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Yesterday out of no where my rio started to misfire so i immediately took it into autozone to have it checked. when doing so the check engine light was on, but solid.
The tests came back with P0300, P0301, and P0302 or 3. I cant find the papers, but its 3 cyns that are misfiring. The guy at autozone suggested i try changing out the plugs first since its cheaper and has been known to fix this issue.
The second I bought the plugs I went home and changed them out. once finished i started up the car and not only was the car still misfiring, but the check engine light is now flashing... I did notice one thing when changing the plugs.
If facing the engine the second coil from the left had a bit of what looked to be rust. i was able to wipe it off with ease. What my next move should be?
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I have a 2008 Audi A4. Today while at a stop light, suddenly, the 'check oil pressure' light came on. Immediately after the car died. I tried to restart to no avail. After pushing the car to a safer stop, I checked the oil level. It was perfect. I let thecar sit while I did some quick research on my smartphone after which I tried again to restart. The car was as if the starter was dead. It did not turn whatsoever. Next, a warning light came on to 'tighten fuel cap', which was completely secure. Then, a warning that my headlights were misaligned. I started checking fuses....all fine. The cars fan started and the check oil pressure light came on again. The car still will not turnover whatsoever, however, everything else works fine; lights, radio, fan, etc.... So, I called the dealer and theyre clueless unless they hookup the sensors.
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I have a 98 f-150 with a 4.2 and my check engine light is on and when I'm traveling down the road i notice that when i give it gas the engine feels sluggish and my check engine Light is now flashing.
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My 2000 deville (which i never drive) but start up and let run decided to give a BIG problem today. I went to charge my a/c up and when I started it it was running very rough... Last week it did it also but after letting it run it smoothed out but today it stayed same and was actually worse. I drove it around the block and check engine light was flashing and car was sputtering like it didn't want to go. Sputtering out of exhaust and exhaust was getting real hot and giving off smoke from behind tires area. it was actually starting to burn my grass. I don't understand why it would do this all of a sudden. I pulled codes and this is what was there
p01571
u1040
u1064
u1192
The only code that is usually in there is the tcc code and its been for years..
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