Audi - A6 :: 2006 - Hard Time Starting Whenever Fill Up Tank With Gas / Idles Roughly
Dec 8, 2012
I have the strangest problem on my 2006 Audi A6: whenever I fill up my tank with gas the car has a very hard time starting. This has happened 3 times in a row now. I run the tank fairly low - to about 1 quarter tank or a little lower but never to empty....then I fill the tank. When I get in the car to start it, the engine just keeps turning over trying to start but will not start. Then I stop trying, let the ignition rest for a bit, and try to start it about 5 minutes later and it starts just fine on the first try.
What could be causing this?One thing that has also started happening around the same time as the problem above is that when I'm idling at a stop light, I notice the car may start to idle roughly and seem like it is about to die out. I am the first and only owner of this car...I take good care of it and am an easy going driver. But I do drive a lot and have about 200,000 miles on it after 7 years.
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My wife and i have an 07 accent 2 door and we have a very hard time starting the car after putting fuel in it. Tank level doesn't seem to affect this issue. The car has 160,000 km on it. I've replaced the coil packs already twice. After getting the car to start after putting fuel in it it struggles at idle for the first 15-30 sec and then bang problem is gone until the next time i put fuel in it.
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My high mileage V6 1999 Sierra starts fine and runs great in the morning or when it is cold. As soon a you try to restart hot is spins fast enough, but has a very hard time starting. When it does start, there is smoke from the gas and the engine idles very high for about 10 minutes before settling down. Same thing reoccurs over and over when the engine is hot. May idle up to 2500 rpm, cant kick it off.
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1993 Buick Regal 3.1l V6 Multiport injection
Problem: The care currently has a hard start, and a fluctuating idle. I bought the car a year and a half ago it still has low miles about 94,000. The care used to start fine but had a fluctuating idle in the range of 750 to 2500 rpm. My brother who is a mechanic and doesn’t live near, do all the gaskets when he visited. Then the idle fluctuation dropped to 750 to 1000rpm, when the car rpms fluctuate there is a whirring sound I can hear from the cab, like a pump or pull system. On occasion there is a vibration as well but it is inconstant and irregular. Fuel pressure seems to fluctuate as well. If the car will not start I give it a little gas and it will run fine after a minute or two, but then the idle starts to fluctuate.
No fuse issues I can tell and relays seem to be fine.Checked for lose wiring connections found, none. I have replaced:
- Hoses and gaskets
- Starter motor
- Battery
- Fuel Pressure regulator
- Fuel Filter
- Spark plugs and wires
- TPS
- Idle Air control Valve
- Crank shaft sensor
- PCV.
Right now I’m thinking it could be the fuel pump (a nightmare to change on this car), a fuel injector failing, and the ignition switch.
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I have a 1999 F150 4x4 5.4, I pulled the heads due to blown head gasket. Prior to pulling heads truck started and run fine other than miss on #1 cylinder. I timed the engine according to Haynes manual and posts on this site. Truck is now hard to start and idles very rough. I does seem to smooth out when reving the engine and seems to have plenty of power. Cant find any vacuum leaks or unplugged wires.
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I just had the engine in my 2001 Toyota Celica replaced with a rebuild at 145,000 miles (the original engine was burning oil). It runs fine but now every time I fill the tank with gas and start the car it runs for about 15 seconds then dies. This goes on about four times then it runs fine. After the initial dying eposoide the car runs fine until i fill-up again (i usually fill-up when i have avout 1/4 tank left). Before the engine replacement I had no problem like this. The mechanic thought the problem was the fuel pump and replace it and the filter and inspected the tank for debris. I am still having the problem
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This is for my previous car that I used to own in 2005. It was a 1992 Honda Accord and the issue it had was anytime I went to the gas station to fill up the gas, the car refused to start and I would need to jump start the vehicle every time. I used to take the DC metro to work everyday, so I did not have to use the car as much, but it was a hassle. This happened all through the year and I was just used to carrying a Jump Starter Box with me in the car. There were no other issues with the car. I do not recall needing a jump start any other time. This one time, I forgot to keep my car in the garage and it was out in the snow all weekend. Come Monday morning, I started the car without any issues. I went to a friends place about 10 miles away and then tried to fill gas at a gas station near his place and it died at the gas station. I do not have the car with me now, having totaled it in an accident couple of years ago. But I was always amazed at this and would like to know what would cause something like this.
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I have a 2002 Audi A6 3.0 Quattro with a frustrating problem! There is a leak in the car causing the rear right floorboard to fill with water. I had it into the dealer in Oct. 2010 where they replaced the rear right window channels & seals & found the plenum drains & sunroof drainage to be ok, no blockage. I also had to replace the transmission module as it was filled with water from the leak! I have had problems with the rotation rate sensor & oxy sensor to the point of the ESP kicking on the anti-lock brakes at 60 mph, and have replace both of these sensors, thinking that was probably related to this leak also. I was vacuuming out the car today and found the floorboard to be wet AGAIN! The dealer just keeps the car for weeks trying to find this leak..
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I need to put a starter in my v6. Is it fairly simple or will i have to jack up the motor the problem is it starts fine when cold but after you drive it for a short distance and shut it off it has a hard time starting.
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I'm having a issue with my Chevy Lumina Z34 (1991). When it's cold outside the car has a hard time starting up! I have to crank it multiple times while giving it gas. When it starts and is warm she runs great. I've been recommended to get a fuel injector flush. I also read synthetic oil could work also. It doesn't happen all the time.
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In the morning, my Treg won't start on the first attempt. If I just click the key to the right (to start the automatic ignition process) it just grinds and grinds then dies. The second time it will start. This has only happened the last couple of days. Also I should mention that it has gotten quite cold around here. Although the car is in a garage and my wife's Jetta fires right up.
I've also been having Insufficient Coolant problems. After one week of owning it I took it to the dealer and they topped off the coolant. A week later the Insufficient Coolant message came on again and I topped it off with about 1 quart (litre) of distilled water. It's been ok for the last day or so. I haven't seen any external leaks. I love my Touareg, but I really hope this isn't the beginning of a bunch of problems.
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Vehicle- 98 honda crv lx problem- it always starts when its cold (hasn't run for several hrs). Once its been running for a short while and is shut off, it either has a very hard time starting again or just won't start.
specifics- always starts the first time once engine is warm the problem starts engine turns but doesn't fire. Wears downs the battery. When I get it jumped the car will start sometimes the car will act sluggish during a left turn or from a dead stop when trying to accelerate quickly.
question- does this sound fuel pump related or battery related or both?
statement- car problems blow!
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My 07 has difficulty starting, only after adding fuel, or a fill up. I thought at first it was due to over filling, but it occurs after adding any amount of fuel. If I leave the car running while attempting to fill up, it sputters and dies. I have to press the gas pedal to the floor to start it, and it sputters for a few minutes, then runs fine, and starts fine until fuel is added once again. I searched and found where the General mentions a Vapor hose, but could not find more.
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Our 1997 Lumina with a 3.1 liter engine and about 190,000KMS is having difficulty starting in the morning.
I have changed the spark plugs, plug wires, checked the connections to the battery and put dielectric grease on them. None of that seemed to make much of a difference. The key has to be held for about 5-7 seconds and it coughs to life and then runs rough for about another 5 seconds and the interior lights are dim during this too. After that it comes to life and runs great.
Is it possible for starters to start to weaken? I have never had a starter do that, they have either worked or not. Besides that, I don't know what else could be the problem.
I have heard that these engines can have condensation issues when the temperature straddles the freezing mark, which it has been the last few weeks. Maybe it just needs to get below zero and stay there?
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My 2005 Santa Fe needs a purge valve.
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Last summer and this summer I have had a hard time starting my car when it is hot and humid out. In the winter or on cooler days it starts right up, but on hot and humid days I have to crank on it for a while before it will fire up. Sometimes it will start up right away on these days but die immediately, then I am stuck sweating my butt off in a hot car while I crank on it to start.
What this might be? The Honda dealer was of no support, they tried to sell me a new starter and battery (it is turning so I know they are not the culprits.) When I finally got someone at the dealer to listen to me, he suggested a fuel relay, a sensor,r something else I can't recall. But in the end he said they would just be changing out all of these until one works, at my expense.
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My moms 09 camry has a hard time starting and runs rough. I found out that when my father went to get an oil change, they put in 5W-30. The engine cap on the engine says 0W-20 or 5W-20. The car is at 70K and it has never had any issues, always ran smoothly, always started... until the last oil change. I have looked through the all the service logs and it seems that the last 3 services, they also used 5W-30 oil in the car.
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So I have an 03' Camry le 4 cyl. And it has been having a hard time starting for a while. Finally it completely died. I tried to jump it but accidentally hooked up the jumper cable on the other car backwards. The car then wouldn't even try to start, found and replaced the alt fuse in the engine compartment (what a pita), so I jumped it correctly and it started, but would not move when shifted Into drive or reverse. When in gear pushing the gas pedal does nothing, no rpms at all.
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I have a 1995 Toyota Previa that is having a hard time starting up consistently. Most of the time it starts like a charm, but about 15% of the time the vehicle won't start. It will crank away, sounding like it's out of gas, but just won't start up. BUT if I wait a couple hours and try again it will start up on the first time.
Mechanics have looked at it twice now and are stumped- and of course it starts up fine when it's at the shop. A new battery and a new relay device haven't worked.
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I have a 2002 Nissan Altima that has a hard time starting but runs fine once started. It is very difficult in the winter when the temp is below 25 degrees. Sometimes it take me 5 to 6 tries to get it started. I have had the vehicle checked by two mechanics and recently had the battery replaced. The mechanics said the car looks fine. Could this be a fuel injector problem or moisture in the fuel system?
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So I've had my car for 3 years now. I've done an emissions delete, replaced maf, diverter valve, coolant temp sensor, thermostat, timing belt kit, fuel filter, air filter, starter and battery (for another issue) have a 3" DP and replaced the O2 when I did that, valve cover gasket, spark plugs, tested another n75 in my car.
The problem: the car sometimes has a really hard time starting when it it way below freezing. When it's around cold, at freezing or under the car will start fine. But the problem starts after I back out of my driveway and take the clutch out and put on the gas. When I try to accelerate the car will not accelerate. You can have your foot pressed to the floor and the car will act as it's stalling out and sputter but it actually won't stall because the call will keep driving and then all of a sudden power will come back and it will take off. The situation can be remedied by either pushing the clutch in. The car will idle no mall or if when the car is sputtering I can tap the gas quickly an it will build up speed and the problem will go away.
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