Audi - A6 :: 1999 - Engine Does Not Ignite
Jun 5, 2013
Audi 99 a6 quattro. Motor turns, battery is fine. Engine does not ignite. Spark happens but the engine does not hold. After 5 mins car starts. Once its warm no problem starting. Cold start is the issue. what do you think is issue? fuel injection, fuel pump???. I have seen the car stall on second gear sometimes on high throttle, reduce throttle it will come back on. I am suspecting some issue with fuel injection????
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The engine turns over but does not ignite. I can hear the fuel pump priming or humming for about 2 seconds when key is turned to "on".
My car was hit the night before in a parking lot by a truck backing up. He hit the rear right rocker panel and part of the tail light. Could this have anything to do with it? I drove it home fine, it just wouldn't start the next morning.
At first I thought fuel pump, but after reading some threads here, they seem to say if I hear it hum it's working.
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I found oil leaking out of my audi (model above) this morning. it runs great, but is leaving a small puddle every time I park. I looked underneath and there is oil collected in many places. Its not pouring but slow drip when the engine is hot. More to the front of the car. Its not happening at the washer to the crank to drain oil.
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We recently bought a 2002 Audi A4 and everything seemed good and a while ago the engine began to make a ticking sound and it said it needs oil, but when we checked the oil it was full and a local mechanic said it heard like a piston but they are well oiled.
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My 2014 Audi A6 is running fine, but the check engine light has come on twice. I brought it to the dealer and they said that the "fuel level sensor circuit range/performance" is the problem, but that Audi does not have a solution for this problem! Weird that they have an indicator light for something they can't fix. They assure me that it's nothing to worry about, but I'm not feeling very reassured by Audi these days. They reset the engine light, but it came back on again. Does this sound right?
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my audi tt 2003 convertible turbo has had trouble starting. the engine turns over just fine and up untill now it has caught, albeit a little slow. now I note that it still catches, about every 3rd try, but unlike before it isn't staying on no matter how much I try to rev the engine. We just had the spark plugs and 2 coils replaced. There's a coolant leak through the sensor housing (we have the part for that but hubby doesn't want to fix it) but we do keep coolant at sufficient levels. problem seems to get worse on colder mornings, but is not affected by cold in the evening. Yes, the check engine light is on. The codes have been read and it's coming up as the temp sensor (which part we purchased, but hubby doesn't want to install).
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I have a 2006 Audi A4 with about 90,000 miles on it. Recently, the engine has been making a clicking noise when it is warming up. Once the engine is warm it stops. No, performance problems, just the sound. It got an oil change recently (I always use synthetic oil), but the sound was occuring before and after the oil change. What it could be?
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I am considering buying a used 2013 Audi Q5 with 25K miles. The day I was supposed to see the SUV the check engine light came on-. The catalytic converter had to be replaced. The dealership could not give a good reason why this happened. During the winter, the owner backed into a pile of snow--and dented the under panel in the rear that has since been replaced.
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The left Xenon lamp does not ignite. I change the lamp and it doesn't work. What is wrong??, the ballast??? In that case, what is the part number, or tell me where to find it The technician says that the module broken is the AFS Module. I think he is wrong. The faulty message in the car is "Luz de cruce del. izq. averiada" in somehow in English "Low beam left malfunction"...
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I have a 2004 Audi A6 wagon that's got 105k miles on it. A couple months ago, the check engine light came on while I was driving it. While it was on, it was flashing and the car felt like it was shuddering, like there was not enough gas getting to the engine. Then the CIL stopped flashing. It happened several times during my short outing that day, but then it never happened again. Now the flashing CIL is back and the car feels the same way when it's happening. I took it to an auto parts store to get the trouble codes read and the guy said P0300 (random cylinder misfire) and P0305 (cylinder 5 misfire) came up.
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I have a 2002 Audi a6 Quattro 2.7t. Recently my fiancée filled up my gas tank and when he did this he continued to pump fuel into the tank even though the automatic shut off trigger had released. In doing so he said he filled it to the point that it was just about to spill out. The first 1/8 of a tank the car drove like normal. Then all of a sudden i very very briefly could smell an odor of rotten eggs. The following morning my car had loss of power to the point that i parked it. My fiancée was reading about how to fill the tank properly and when he did he went ahead and released the gas cap and at that point he said he heard a bubbling noise come from the tank. My car is drivable now but not up to par. It slightly sputters (bogged) at take off still. What else it could be ?
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I hear a knocking sound for a few seconds from the rear of my 2004 Audi S4 when I turn the key to the on position. It is independent of the engine, this knocking occurs with or without starting the engine. Here is a recording of the sound: [URL] ..... What could be making that noise?
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I have an Audi 1999, quattro 2.8 liter. I am starting to hear a whining noise (from this morning) when I throttle. Gets louder when you throttle more. Runs fine. The sound comes even if the car is in Park/neutral and is not moving which means that the sound is not from transmission/differential, which is a relief. Where do you think its coming from - fuel pump????
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So my 1.6 accent (140,000) decided to no longer start. Just keeps cranking but doesn't ignite. Plugged a scanner in and it's the crankshaft position sensor. How difficult is this to get to? From what I've ready its just held on one end by a 10mm bolt and the older end is just a connector, but it looks like it might be in a pain in the ass location. Does anything need to be taken off first to access? Should this take less than 30 min?
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Another issue to my Accent 2009 model, when I switched the key to Ignite, I can hear a low pitch buzzing sound somewhere in the front of driver seat, maybe in the steering wheel column or under the dashboard I don't know. Even when I already started the engine, or even when I am already running slow or fast, the sound is still there. What is that sound?
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'01 Audi A6 2.7T, has 97k...I noticed the car making a loud clacking/taping sound at idle that didn't change even when car warmed up. Check engine light came on today...codes P1340 and P0341 both deal with camshaft being "out of sequence" on bank #1.
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2004 Audi A6 2.7 T quattro ... Check engine light comes on and three mechanics all say i need new torque converter even tho i have no symptoms as yet. Will I get symptoms eventually, or could this be an electrical issue. When they turn off the warning light, it takes a day or so to come back on. There has been no reduction of mileage, no gear slipping, no problem accelerating.
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I have a 1991 Audi 100 that is flawless and paid for. 215,000 miles and doesn't leak or use a drop of any vital fluid. It does have one problem: While under load and accelerating from a dead stop, about 75% of the time the engine hesitates as if it is not getting any fuel. You step on the accelerator, get no response for one second and then off you go, no problem. On occasion while accelerating from a dead stop, the engine will quickly cough, pop like a backfire, and then catch. I have replaced the fuel filter, and through accident inadvertently found out that I seem to have excellent fuel pressure. While at speed, I seem to have little or no problem with instant acceleration when the accelerator is pressed.
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The issue is with my 1999 Audi A6 Quattro, I have driven 205,000 miles on the car and after 100K I started doing the maintenance. There is a sound coming from the front driver side, when you drive the car through a bumpy or gravel road, which sounds like “click, clank, click, clank”, to me its origin is from the suspension or the shock absorber. Both control arms were replaced due to misdiagnosis. Even the local maintenance shop can’t identify the issue, even after doing an alignment and inspection. I am not seeing any uneven ware out on the front tire.
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Had an incident this past weekend where the heat shields on my 2000 passat limited, v-6, 5-spd automatic, burst into flames unexpectedly during the course of a vacation drive in the mountains.
Contacted vw customer relations and their position is that since the vehicle has 148,000 miles on it, and it is out of warranty, it would not be unexpected for the heat shields to degrade and burn, so it is my problem for not having the heat shields properly maintained. Since when are heat shields a maintenance item?
I did not design them or choose the inappropriate materials to manufacture them. I would like to know and make vw aware that there is a very serious safety risk in the choice of materials they have used for heat shielding.
Am I wrong to expect that a heat shield would prevent fires, not cause them? Is it also wrong for me to expect vw to be responsible for the choice of materials they used, that now poses a serious risk to the safety of myself and others?
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I have a 2004 Audi A6 wagon that has an intermittently flashing check engine light. I took it to the dealership to have the codes read and they told me that they got codes for Cylinder 2 and Cylinder 5 misfires. Additionally they got a code saying the Engine Coolant Temperature Sender was electronically faulty. What is this part and what does it do? Is it essential to fix it immediately?
The dealership recommended changing the spark plugs and the air filters for the cylinder misfire issue. We are also talking about replacing the timing belt since the car has 105k miles on it. I know there are several other parts that are replaced during the timing belt replacement (like the water pump, thermostat, oil seals, etc). Is it essential to replace these items if there is no immediate need to do so?
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