Audi - A4 :: Belly Pan Loose Causing Clattering / Rattling Noise
May 6, 2016
The belly pan on my AUDI A4 is loose and causing a clattering, rattling noise. I looked under the car and it looks like all of the screws are missing..... Can I fix this myself?
I saw that a lot of places online sell the screws but pricing was a bit confusing and I wanted to make sure it's something I can fix myself.
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Having this rattling/clattering noise at start up? Mine is starting to become more and more common... (54k miles).
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Ever since day 1, I noticed my wife's 2011 TDI/DSG make clattering/rattling noise during low gear changes (1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd gear), it sounded like a diesel engine's clattering/clicking but a little louder at gear changes. I mentioned it to the dealer at 3month/3k checkup and they test drove and say it's normal. Is it really normal?
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I have a 2002 Audi A6 3.0 Quattro with a frustrating problem! There is a leak in the car causing the rear right floorboard to fill with water. I had it into the dealer in Oct. 2010 where they replaced the rear right window channels & seals & found the plenum drains & sunroof drainage to be ok, no blockage. I also had to replace the transmission module as it was filled with water from the leak! I have had problems with the rotation rate sensor & oxy sensor to the point of the ESP kicking on the anti-lock brakes at 60 mph, and have replace both of these sensors, thinking that was probably related to this leak also. I was vacuuming out the car today and found the floorboard to be wet AGAIN! The dealer just keeps the car for weeks trying to find this leak..
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I was playing with the paddle shifters while driving home and went into too high of a gear for my speed (I think 4th gear at only 20mph, 1000rpm). When I gave it some gas, I noticed a clattering/rattling sound coming from under the hood, along with the usual low growl/bogging you'd expect for being in too high of a gear. I quickly downshifted and the rattle went away and the car accelerated as normal.
Is this reason for concern? I only noticed this because I had my windows rolled down but worry I might accidentally damage something if I don't hear it or not pay attention.
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I own a 2002 Saab 9-3 with 248,000. When I start the engine there is a rattling sound as if something is loose and quiet down when the engine warms up. Sometime when I stop and accelerate there is rattling and then a lot of smoke from the exhaust. I am looking for a mechanic that specialize in Saab to get a honest assessment. How to keep this vehicle running.
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I recently traded in my old '96 Infiniti for this great 2001 PT Cruiser. It drives great ,,mileage is at 76K and in very good condition .. except for this. Whenever I am driving and going over minor or major bumps I get a lot of loose RATTLING, clacking noise from the front end. Obviously from the tires bouncing up and down. Is this typical for this particular PT? I remember having that in an old Jeep of mine too. Very boxy sounding in the front.
My wife and I had traded both of our cars in..2009 Versa for a 2013 Chevy Sonic--1996 infiniti for a 2001 PT Cruiser
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My 2012 Plug-in spontaneously started making a metal scraping/rattling noise in the middle of a low-speed drive around the neighborhood yesterday. Seems to be coming from the left front wheel area. I've checked thoroughly under the car and in the front wheel wells for anything that could be dragging/rubbing, and I can't find a culprit there.
It occurs while coasting in EV mode, so not ICE/exhaust related. The car doesn't pull to one side or the other. Only 9K miles, so I wouldn't suspect a hub bearing or any other significant wear to be causing this.
Possible clue or red herring: the dealer replaced the the left front tire and did an alignment two days ago, and the noise occurred within 15 miles of driving after that service.
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One thing that brought me here is the noise of my liftgate when being closed. When the liftgate contacts the latch it makes a rattle-y/loose sound. The trunk is locked and secure however the sound is very off-putting. I bought my 2010 Prius II as a CPO last year and never really thought much about the noise, only that it didn't sound very pretty.
However, I was recently sideswiped and was put in a 2013 Prius II and the liftgate closes with a solid thunk with no loose rattles. What could be causing this squeaky/rattle sound? I thought it could be my license plate frame since rentals typically don't use frames, but it seems really unlikely.
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when I bought my 2003 gti 1.8t it had a small exhaust leak, I decided to investigate today and found that the downpipe flange and turbo flange was rattling around, there's almost 1/16" of play and it's making a rattling noise. I can't tighten the nuts on the studs any more but that might just be from them being seized in place. I'm getting a new gasket and studs and nuts and hopefully that will fix it?
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I have a 2006 Ford F250 super duty kingcab 6.0 with 6 speed manual transmission. It just started making a clattering sound when i let off the gas in 1, 2, 3 gear but not in 4, OD, in Neutral with or without clutch engaged or at idle. U joints and carrier bearing are good. I took it to a mechanic and he said it was the throw out bearing but the sound goes away when clutch is engaged?
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This bad squeaking, loose rattling and (sometimes) banging noise from the left rear started happening about a couple weeks ago. I've removed all interior panels, even the exterior bumper thinking there was something loose and nothing. I suspect as a last resort it has to be the suspension despite the car having only 17k km.
What is strange is the rattle increases in sound volume and occurs more often the longer you drive and also if temperatures get colder.
In other words, if I have the car parked in my garage overnight (slightly above 0 C) and immediately drive next morning into sub-freezing temps and on bumpy roads, you don't hear it. But after 5-10 minutes of driving, you start to hear it and gets louder and more frequent.
Searched other threads and some have reported the shock as the problem for 2010/2011 models, but none had any sound or video to compare.
The video shows how bad it is : [URL] ....
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Ive been having problems with my o2 sensor behind the left cat coming loose and causing a horrible rattle. Ive tightened the hell out of it a few times and it lasted around 4k miles each. recently i tightened it again and it comes loose within like 20 miles. I was gonna put lock tight on it but with the wiring going into the sensor i cant back it all the way out. I just said screw it and put some JB weld metal putty on it to hold and it lasted like 2 days and now its rattling again. I guess next step is find out how to take apart the sensor so i can un thread and lock tight it....electrical stuff scares me though.
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Geo Metro loose head bolts... I have a 96 Metro, and for some reason the head bolts loosen by themselves, leading to over heating and planing head ... well you know.I had a farm for 20 years and took care of all equipment myself, have rebuilt numerous motors, but this geo is the first I have seen where the bolts loosen. This is the third time. I know they are tightened right , because I have the tools and experience, but not with this. Other than jb weld in the bolt holes.
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I have a 2000 f150 xlt 4x4 with a 6" suspension lift. Recently Ive had some front end noise, so after swapping out a lower ball joint and the sway bar links, i still have the pop. It only happens when at a stop or slowly moving and i turn to the right and accelerate. It sounds like its coming from the front drivers side. I have wiggled everything in the front end and everything is very tight. The only loose things i can find are:
1) Bottoms of shocks can be wiggled back and forth, both sides do this.
2) driveshaft leading to the front end has a lot of play, but I don't believe that's relevant since its not used when I am in 2wd.
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Well, I'm not quite sure what happened, but while driving on the highway today my belly pan decided it was time to move on with life and detached 98% of itself from my car at 80. I pulled over and it was only hanging on by 1 screw so I had to rip it the rest of the way off since I didn't have any tools in the car.
with the way the OEM belly pan came off, the plastic was broken in several places (screws stayed with the car) and in other places the screws stripped out and were still attached to the pan itself. If I order a new belly pan from ECS and associated hardware, will a tech be able to install it if the holes are stripped/there is damage underneath the car?
I know a lot of people run without the belly pan, but I would prefer to have one installed, figure I can't be the first guy to replace a broken one, right?
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I recently brought my 2011 in for its final service with a laundry list of issues, one of which was the tailgate panel that was always loose and rattling. Of course the dealer told me there was no problem, and it's always been difficult to isolate the source of rattles on this car since the entire car is a symphony of rattling plastic.
I looked into the tailgate panel more closely to find that the two plastic grab handles built into the tailgate panel were loose. I pulled the panel off to discover the root for the problem. The two plastic grab handles are sonically welded (melted) to the tailgate panel, (five welds per handle). Three of the five welds on each handle were fractured, (six out of ten welds had failed).
I took the panel back to the dealership and showed it to the service manager who miraculously concluded that the panel was defective, but it wasn't like that when they looked at it the day before.
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When I press on the gas going up a hill I hear a strange rattling sound like something is loose on my car. What this could be? I have 81,000 miles on my v (lowercase v for the Prius v wagon)
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My problem occured at beginning of 5,000 mile trek to pick up my wife at her Florida friends place and make some visits heading north. The solution (not done until yesterday at Lexus) is appearing quite often now.
In fact at the feet of my Service Person's desk was failed part which is a plastic cover under the car for the fuel tank which loses rubber dampening lead strip over time. Then it clatters in thw wind (especially at Hwy. speeds) and telegraphs up thru' door and frame channels to seem like it comes from roof.
I thought my hearing bad at detection when I found this out but apparently they have speant all kinds of wasted time with roof channels/ rubber strip replacements (which I had done on right side of car and had done left side of car yesterday before we figured this thing our)/power moon roof assemblies. The problem is under the car.
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Since new my Prius V has had a metallic clattering sound that comes from underneath the car. This can be replicated when driving over lane divider dots on a quiet street with the windows down. To investigate, I put the car on ramps and looked around; I was almost certain the sound was coming from a thin aluminum heat shield that is just behind the engine. Tapping this shield made a similar sound to what I heard coming from under the car while driving over bumps and such. The shield is poorly attached with those "fun" push pin fasteners that seem to be liberally deployed all over the undercarriage. I decided to re-attach the shield with a judicious circular application of silicone under each of the holes in the shield and let it dry. The clattering sound I heard previously when tapping the shield was gone. Out for a test drive and still there!
I just had the first service done, and of course the tech couldn't hear it on his test drive. Unfortunately I was pressed for time, so I wasn't able to take a test drive with the tech. I will drive the tech around next time and demonstrate it.
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I have a '981.8 and all of my control arms were shot so I replaced them all (a MAJOR PITA i might add) and got rid of that horrible noise of clunking and clattering. But wait... whats that I hear?? a little clunking or something. I don't know, its quiet and only audible at low speeds (35-). I don't know what it would be because the control arms are quiet now. Am i missing something? Sway Bar?
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