Audi - A4 :: 2007 - Rusty Brake Rotors Making Horrible Noise?
May 2, 2011
Last June I took my 2001 Audi A4 off the road since I bought a more fuel efficient commuter car but I wanted to keep the Audi in the family until my oldest son started driving. That day has come and I'm making the car drivable again. I pulled the battery over the winter and kept it on a Battery Tender. I put it back in over the weekend and the car started up up and runs just fine. The only problem is that the rotors are extremely rusted and make a horrific grinding noise. Is there anything I can do to remove this rust? I assume I can just grind it off with the brake pads but that can't be good for the brakes which, if I recall correctly, are fairly new.
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I have never experienced what others have described as the brake delay issue, neither before nor after the ABS recall. I have even purposely driven over rough patches of road to try to duplicate.
After two days of rain, I noticed yesterday that my brake rotors were rusty. I remembered a comment from qbee42 about putting the car in neutral while braking in order to remove regenerative braking and to force friction braking to clean rusty rotors.
Yesterday I was approaching a stop light with plenty of distance and no one in front. I started braking around 45 mph with regenerative braking and then pulled the shift lever to neutral. When in neutral and with the regenerative braking removed, I felt the decrease in braking when transitioning to friction braking and I had to brake a little harder in order to have the same amount of braking as before in regenerative braking.
I can see where someone can "perceive" this as a surge forward but I only interpreted this as a decrease in braking force, as others have stated here many times.
I tried this again at the next stop light and felt the same "sensation" again and had to brake slightly harder when in neutral in order to have the same braking force. It was apparent to me that for the same brake pedal position that the friction brakes do not exert as much braking force as the same pedal position with regenerative braking.
Is this similar to what others are reporting as "brake delay" or "surge forward" issues?
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It's happened the last two times I've washed the car. I thoroughly cleaned the wheels with Sonax followed by soapy water, then washed the rest of the car. After washing, my usual routine is an initial towel dry, then I take the car for a short drive to shake the excess water out of crevices & the wheels, followed by the final towel dry & detailing.
This is happening on all four wheels. I know my front rotors are nearing their end of life, but the rears should have plenty of life in them (45K miles).
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I installed a set of Brake Performance rotors ( slotted ) with premium ceramic pads and have had a bit of strange stuff going on from day one. When I first got them installed there would be a mild grinding or rough feeling when stopping. It got better over the first couple of day but was still there. I also notice a loud whirling or humming noise when I stop from high speeds. I called brake performance and they saids that it may be that the ceramic pad is to hard for the system. It sounded a little odd. The weather in AZ finally hit 77 yesterday so I have been driving with the windows down and have been noticing more of the grinding sound even when the brakes are not pressed.
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I replaced my warped front brake rotors a couple thousand miles ago and all was fine but when I went to swap over to my snow tires, I can see that the outer part of the rotor has been rubbing on the caliper bracket. This is happening on both front rotors. Could my new rotors be too thick or something?
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As the title states I just finished putting pads and rotors on the front of my 04' f250. I have had a terrible shutter almost a bouncing effect while braking over the last week or so, finally got around to doing the work and still no satisfaction! My question is where to go next? Wheel bearings and tires are good, I do get a pretty good wobble/vibration in the pedal while braking. Should I be looking at a brake booster or master cylinder? Or is it possible it's a caliper? Truck goes down the road fine until and brake is applied.
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Just thought I'd ask, I was at the dealer last week and while there asked them to take a look at my brakes because they were making a slight screeching sound but only when first applied when speed was slow.
They said it all looked good but that the sound I was hearing was from grooves that had been etched into the driver's side front rotor. I find it hard to believe that my rotor would have grooves in it after only 21k miles, considering I don't track it or drive it aggressively that would have caused that.
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99 F-250 Ext cab 4x4 7.3 285,000 miles.
I got home today opened my door and got snaked in the face with the smell of brakes. I got out of the truck then I heard the drivers side rear brakes popping as they are cooling down. I reached down to touched the wheel and it's crazy hot. Opened the garage and went to retrieve the infared thermometer. The rotor/caliper was 350 degrees, hub was 150 degrees, axle tube was 90 degrees.
I took the wheel off and inspected stuff. The rotors do have some heat spots, the caliper visibly looks okay but not 100%. The pads look like even wear. I am guessing that the caliper either is hanging up or I have a wheel bearing going? The passenger side was like 80 degrees on everything. There is a slight shimmy while driving which to me feels to me like the beginning of warped rotors. I don't hear anything to me that screams wheel bearing noise wise.Brakes or bearings?
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I have a 2006 Audi A4 with about 90,000 miles on it. Recently, the engine has been making a clicking noise when it is warming up. Once the engine is warm it stops. No, performance problems, just the sound. It got an oil change recently (I always use synthetic oil), but the sound was occuring before and after the oil change. What it could be?
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So here I am with my 1996 Dodge grand caravan that I purchased new in 1995 for a whopping 30k. Yeah hind site is 20/20 skip forward to mile 102k transmission fails completely. Had to have it towed in to shop, rebuilt tranny put in... skip ahead another 4 years to mile 173k and transmission fails again. Again on a tow truck to the shop and ANOTHER tranny rebuild. So now I am at mile 182k and transmission is making a horrible shudder and I have moved across the country away from original shop that did last trans repair (who says they only warranty if I come back to them) and I am possibly looking at another repair or replacement. What is the deal with these vans?
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I was driving the other day, and all of a sudden it started with this horrible knocking sound. I have never heard the sound before. I remember back in the day, with a 67 buick rivera, that if the oil got low, the engine would knock, and this kind of sounded the same, but more high pitched and clicky. I checked the oil first thing and there is plenty in there - in fact, I had just checked and put oil in it about two weeks before.
I have not always kept up with the oil changes, and sometimes the oil level was pretty low. My sons tell me that the sound seems to be coming from the top of the engine, and it's probably toast, a rod knock. I parked it, and figured i will get it looked at in a few months, when I'm better able to pay for diagnostics.
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In the summer months when the air conditioning is in use, there is a back up of water. i can hear the water sloshing sound when the air is on and when making sharp turns it actually drains out on the front floor, both driver and passenger sides. it has also overflowed out the backseat air vents. my mechanic has told me the drain on this vehicle is tiny and becomes clogged easily. the car is parked in my garage, not left out in the elements so i disagree.
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i have the brake (!) the ABS and the VSC lit up after i got new bearings and new brake pads and rotors, the car was also stalling before the mechanic removed these bearing "dust cover" circles that must have been causing speed sensor interfernce bc the spedometer was stuck on 0....so the car seems to be done stalling after those were removed and all the big lights went off then i hit the brakes a few miles later and those three lights came on...
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My c is about 5 12 months old now, and the rear brake drums are already covered in rust.
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I recently put new wheels on my 2012 (more open spoke than stock ones), very soon started to notice the brake drums getting rusty. Is there anything I can do to 1) get rid of that and 2) stop it from happening? It's really killing the look of the new wheels. (The wheels themselves are spotted right now from sprinklers this morning.)
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I noticed the front brake pads were touching the rotors when I was painting the brake calipers. I had my e-brake engaged and in park. I'm assuming the e-brake only brakes the rear wheels because the front rotors were still movable. Although the car still rides fine but I'm not sure if this is normal.
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My brake pedal clicks when depressed, only at the start of pressing down on it. (This is a 2007 Corolla CE.) It only does this when the car is cold and started doing this during the very cold below freezing weather. The brake lights are all working, nothing else seems to be a problem -- brakes work fine, no vibration, etc. Brakes were checked out two months ago.
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So my dad has an 03 Camry and the front brakes make way too much noise. It doesn't bother him much but when we switch cars on some days, it bothers the heck out of me.
I searched around on the forums and i couldn't find my exact situation. The front brakes are not even close to being worn and rotors were changed recently as well. The mechanics clean the area to see if it works but it doesn't. The brakes squeal A LOT especially when it is cold. Applying light to medium pressure will trigger the sound.
Say I was to brake from anywhere between 10-30 miles per hour, it would make such a loud squeal. but when I'm cruising and have to break a little heavier than normal, it won't squeal. Sometimes it won't even make a noise when they are warm. Also it would make so much noise moving slowly in heavy traffic, it bothers me so much and it is quite embarrassing.
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Audi A4 2000 with 200K on the odometer. The alarming flashing BRAKE light came on and the ABS light. My mechanic says they will need to replace the module (not cheap) but I wonder if I can just keep driving anyhow until inspection is due––hey, that's six months away. The car has great pep; the motor is good, the brakes are fine (recently replaced the rear brakes) so if I am just conscious of the lack of ABS––is there any problem here?
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I have a 6-cyl, 2000 Camry that is making a scraping noise from the right rear brake. After driving it for a while I put my hand near the rotor and it was hot. The other side wasn't. I changed the pads and rotors yesterday and it's still making the noise. I'm guessing that there's something wrong with the caliper. Do I need to buy a new one? Can I rebuild the current one?
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I have a '05 Corolla with around 80,000 miles on it.I've noticed for the past few weeks that it makes a weird noise when I brake. It's what I would describe as a gurgling or almost groaning sound coming from under the hood. This only happens about every other day, and only when I've slowing pressing the brake to coast to a stop or slowing on a downward slope.
Took it to one mechanic who couldn't duplicate the sound and gave up.The brake pads are relatively new and the sound is definitely not coming from the tires.
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