Audi - A4 :: 2002 - Oil Pressure Light Comes On?
May 8, 2015
I have a 2002 Audi A4 V6 - two weeks ago the oil pressure light came on - I pulled over checked the oil (it was OK) started the car back up and the light was gone. this has happened 5 or 6 times in the last two weeks. I either turn the engine off and restart and it's gone or it comes on, chimes three times, and then goes off. no real pattern except the car needs to be running for at last 20 minutes and it happens between 20 mph and 40 mph never at high speed or at idle.
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I have a 2008 Audi A4. Today while at a stop light, suddenly, the 'check oil pressure' light came on. Immediately after the car died. I tried to restart to no avail. After pushing the car to a safer stop, I checked the oil level. It was perfect. I let thecar sit while I did some quick research on my smartphone after which I tried again to restart. The car was as if the starter was dead. It did not turn whatsoever. Next, a warning light came on to 'tighten fuel cap', which was completely secure. Then, a warning that my headlights were misaligned. I started checking fuses....all fine. The cars fan started and the check oil pressure light came on again. The car still will not turnover whatsoever, however, everything else works fine; lights, radio, fan, etc.... So, I called the dealer and theyre clueless unless they hookup the sensors.
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We recently bought a 2002 Audi A4 and everything seemed good and a while ago the engine began to make a ticking sound and it said it needs oil, but when we checked the oil it was full and a local mechanic said it heard like a piston but they are well oiled.
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I have an Audi a8 2006 with tpms. I got an error yesterday saying all levels were low. Slightly. This morning before driving anywhere, I filled the tires to the spec pressures 38 fr and 36 rear. I initialized through the mmi system. When I had it display pressures the pressures on the drivers side were lower in the 30-33 range but with temps in the 118 range. On the pass side pressures were reading 38-40 with temps in the 80 range.The car was not driven for 16 hours prior to filling up tires. Car in a garage. Displayed values were as soon as i turned car on. I didn't drive 10 feet. What this means? Bad sensor? Receiver?
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2002 B5.5 Passat v6
Want to take a 2001 Audi TT Quattro steering wheel... only horn... no switches, and swap it with the passats steering wheel, same setup just a horn on the passat steering wheel.
Is this possible to do safely, and do the harness is the same so i dont plug in new steering wheel and have the car blow all the airbags or throw codes?
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I just got done putting the head back together after time sert repair on the 10 head bolts and after the initial start up and warm up I drove it outside and within 5 minutes the oil pressure light came on. I did something stupid afterwards but being that it's nighttime already I thought it would be fun to TURN ON THE ENGINE AND REMOVE THE OIL PRESSURE SWITCH TO ZZCHECK PRESSURE. Well it sprayed 2 feet in every direction until I managed to put it back. Cannot tell the psi but lots of pressure for idle. Oil is traveling places. I used compressed air on the switch put it back but still red light of death. The car drives fine no noise.
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I am new to the ToyotaNation Forums. I got a 2002 Toyota Camry LE. Recently, I had an oil change done couple weeks ago and that same day I used the seafoam engine treatment. Now in the past couple days I had a low oil pressure warning light coming on. The car will not start unless I key into ignition and quickly rev the engine to like 2000 rpm+ and it goes. I read that the engine can seize. I checked the dipstick and the engine oil is clean and seems good. I went to (2) mechanics and they will not know unless the light comes back on. It has not come back on as of yet. Now I want to know what I can do to resolve this dilemma I got.
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I have a 2002 Audi A6 3.0 Quattro with a frustrating problem! There is a leak in the car causing the rear right floorboard to fill with water. I had it into the dealer in Oct. 2010 where they replaced the rear right window channels & seals & found the plenum drains & sunroof drainage to be ok, no blockage. I also had to replace the transmission module as it was filled with water from the leak! I have had problems with the rotation rate sensor & oxy sensor to the point of the ESP kicking on the anti-lock brakes at 60 mph, and have replace both of these sensors, thinking that was probably related to this leak also. I was vacuuming out the car today and found the floorboard to be wet AGAIN! The dealer just keeps the car for weeks trying to find this leak..
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The oil pressure light in my '02 Civic (~96K) has been randomly flickering on, for a second or less, at different speeds, road conditions, length of time in the car, etc. I have taken it to a good reputable shop and to a Honda service shop, and neither of them can pinpoint the problem. The good shop thought it might be a faulty sensor, but Honda shop guy said he's never replaced a sensor in his career. I've been driving ~400 miles per week since August. I had the alternator replaced at the good shop a couple months before the oil light started flickering. The Honda shop just said that the alternator was charging too high, but they didn't say if that was related to the oil light coming on. The battery was replaced in August, the oil level and pressure are good, and I got the oil changed two weeks ago when the good shop checked out the oil light problem. What is causing the oil light to come on??
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I am working on my friend's '02 Explorer 4x4 with 4.6L engine with 122k on it, the dash is telling him that he has low oil pressure. When it first came on he was an hour away from home, what he told me he did was pull over and checked his oil level right away. He found that it was still full and since the engine wasn't making noises he resumed his trip home. During the drive home he said the dummy oil pressure gauge would read normal then drop all of a sudden then come back up again after so long.
When he got back home he changed the sending unit plus the oil and filter and his Explorer still reads as if it has no oil pressure. The needle does not read anymore, he noted to me when he pulled the filter off it looked like it did not have the normal amount of oil inside it. I did not get to see it so I can not verify that. When he starts it it kind of sounds like it has to fill the filter every time like a fresh oil change, rattles around for a second then smooths out and sounds good..
So is his oil pump to blame for the light being on or is there something wrong with the gauge in the cluster? I have not hooked a mechanical gauge up to where the sending unit threads into so I don't know how much pressure it actually has. If not the oil pump what could be the cause? My other friend and I looked at the oil that came out of the new filter and we thought we saw metal specs in the oil. Is it new engine city time? It has such low miles to need an engine.
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I have a 2002 Audi A4 1.8T with 85,000 miles. Recently my car started overheating, I replaced the water pump, thermostat, and timing belt. The mechanic also ran tests to make sure there were no issues with the head gasket, those tests came back saying the head gasket was a-ok. Yet, my car is still overheating but only on days when the outside temperature creeps above 90 and I am in stop and go traffic. I have to re-fill the coolant tank about once a week depending on how much I drive. I find no coolant puddles under my car when it is parked, so I do not believe it is leaking. What else could be causing my car to overheat?
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I own a 2002 Passat 1.8T. The oil pressure light came on a few weeks ago and I took it in to be looked at. The oil pressure at idle and at 2000 rpm's was fine so they thought it might be the Oil Pressure Sender. Picked up the car and lo and behold, the light continued to come on. Took it back for service. This time the oil pressure levels were lower than spec so, they changed the Oil Pump, tested the pressure and all checked out to be within spec. 15 miles into my drive home, the light was on again. Not sure what to look at now. What to do next?
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I have a 2002 accord with 118k miles that recently after a car wash and oil change, the oil pressure light came on a stays on blinking. I took it to my mechanic and he put a manual pressure gauge on and found that the oil pressure was normal. He changed the oil pressure sensor but the light still is blinking. He believes that having the car washed, under body wash, might have shorted out the harness. Been driving the car for a week and it seems fine, no noticeable difference in performance or sounds coming from the engine.
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The 2002 Passat was making a rattle noise at startup and flashed an oil pressure light. The dealer says there is an issue with the chain tensioner and oil tube within the engine.
I received the latest VW bulletin for the 1.8l turbo regarding the oil sludge and coking deposits issues and pending class action suit. I have been religious about the oil changes and the dealer has done them for the 10 yrs.
The car runs great and has been super reliable until this issue. There is 110K on the clock and I'm wondering if this is a potential sludge issue.
I have not given the go ahead yet but wonder if this:
a) sounds reasonable cost wise
b)needs to be done right away
c)should I pursue this with VW NA
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2002 F150, 4.6 V8, 140k miles. Oil level good, oil was changed 2 months ago.
Driving along one day, out of the blue oil pressure light comes on, oil pressure gauge went to zero.
Engine did not run hot, no bad engines noises that I can hear.
Upon restart, oil pressure will be up on the gauge for minute or so, then goes to zero and oil light comes on.
Asked around, some say oil pump, some say oil filter or pickup tube.
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I have a 02 explorer XLT with the 4.6L and the oil pressure gauge has never worked (the three years I have owned it) I did an oil change yestarday and replaced the sending unit thinking that was the problem but the gauge is still not working. What other problem it may have? 4x4 light flashing (instrument panel looks like a xmas tree)...
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Audi A4 2000 with 200K on the odometer. The alarming flashing BRAKE light came on and the ABS light. My mechanic says they will need to replace the module (not cheap) but I wonder if I can just keep driving anyhow until inspection is due––hey, that's six months away. The car has great pep; the motor is good, the brakes are fine (recently replaced the rear brakes) so if I am just conscious of the lack of ABS––is there any problem here?
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I have a 2002 ford explorer with 70000 miles on it. The problem is that the oil pressure occasionally go from normal to no pressure immediately. Then within a minute it pops right back to normal. It has happened when I first crank up and sometimes just going down the interstate at a normal speed. My fear is that the oil pressure is really gone and there is a pump problem but with it either working or not I fear it could be a sensor problem.
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My 2014 Audi A6 is running fine, but the check engine light has come on twice. I brought it to the dealer and they said that the "fuel level sensor circuit range/performance" is the problem, but that Audi does not have a solution for this problem! Weird that they have an indicator light for something they can't fix. They assure me that it's nothing to worry about, but I'm not feeling very reassured by Audi these days. They reset the engine light, but it came back on again. Does this sound right?
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I am considering buying a used 2013 Audi Q5 with 25K miles. The day I was supposed to see the SUV the check engine light came on-. The catalytic converter had to be replaced. The dealership could not give a good reason why this happened. During the winter, the owner backed into a pile of snow--and dented the under panel in the rear that has since been replaced.
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I have a 2004 Audi A6 wagon that's got 105k miles on it. A couple months ago, the check engine light came on while I was driving it. While it was on, it was flashing and the car felt like it was shuddering, like there was not enough gas getting to the engine. Then the CIL stopped flashing. It happened several times during my short outing that day, but then it never happened again. Now the flashing CIL is back and the car feels the same way when it's happening. I took it to an auto parts store to get the trouble codes read and the guy said P0300 (random cylinder misfire) and P0305 (cylinder 5 misfire) came up.
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