Audi - A4 :: 2002 - Engine Ticking / Oil Light On
May 14, 2016
We recently bought a 2002 Audi A4 and everything seemed good and a while ago the engine began to make a ticking sound and it said it needs oil, but when we checked the oil it was full and a local mechanic said it heard like a piston but they are well oiled.
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I have a 2002 Audi A4 V6 - two weeks ago the oil pressure light came on - I pulled over checked the oil (it was OK) started the car back up and the light was gone. this has happened 5 or 6 times in the last two weeks. I either turn the engine off and restart and it's gone or it comes on, chimes three times, and then goes off. no real pattern except the car needs to be running for at last 20 minutes and it happens between 20 mph and 40 mph never at high speed or at idle.
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My 2014 Audi A6 is running fine, but the check engine light has come on twice. I brought it to the dealer and they said that the "fuel level sensor circuit range/performance" is the problem, but that Audi does not have a solution for this problem! Weird that they have an indicator light for something they can't fix. They assure me that it's nothing to worry about, but I'm not feeling very reassured by Audi these days. They reset the engine light, but it came back on again. Does this sound right?
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I am considering buying a used 2013 Audi Q5 with 25K miles. The day I was supposed to see the SUV the check engine light came on-. The catalytic converter had to be replaced. The dealership could not give a good reason why this happened. During the winter, the owner backed into a pile of snow--and dented the under panel in the rear that has since been replaced.
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I have a 2004 Audi A6 wagon that's got 105k miles on it. A couple months ago, the check engine light came on while I was driving it. While it was on, it was flashing and the car felt like it was shuddering, like there was not enough gas getting to the engine. Then the CIL stopped flashing. It happened several times during my short outing that day, but then it never happened again. Now the flashing CIL is back and the car feels the same way when it's happening. I took it to an auto parts store to get the trouble codes read and the guy said P0300 (random cylinder misfire) and P0305 (cylinder 5 misfire) came up.
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2004 Audi A6 2.7 T quattro ... Check engine light comes on and three mechanics all say i need new torque converter even tho i have no symptoms as yet. Will I get symptoms eventually, or could this be an electrical issue. When they turn off the warning light, it takes a day or so to come back on. There has been no reduction of mileage, no gear slipping, no problem accelerating.
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I have a 2004 Audi A6 wagon that has an intermittently flashing check engine light. I took it to the dealership to have the codes read and they told me that they got codes for Cylinder 2 and Cylinder 5 misfires. Additionally they got a code saying the Engine Coolant Temperature Sender was electronically faulty. What is this part and what does it do? Is it essential to fix it immediately?
The dealership recommended changing the spark plugs and the air filters for the cylinder misfire issue. We are also talking about replacing the timing belt since the car has 105k miles on it. I know there are several other parts that are replaced during the timing belt replacement (like the water pump, thermostat, oil seals, etc). Is it essential to replace these items if there is no immediate need to do so?
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I have a 02 celica gt with 120,000 miles and when the engine is on I hear a ticking noise by the valves, is it normal...
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I have 02 Limited 4.6 with 128k and upon startup there's no noise (sometimes misfire, due to oil in plug wells, gonna change the intake mani and coils soon). Shortly after it warms up - 5 minutes or so there is a constant ticking at idle...I can't really tell if its there upon acceleration as I can't notice it with the window open when I'm driving, but as soon as I slow down and/or idle I hear it again.
If I let the car sit for a few hours, or while I'm at work, it starts up perfectly fine, no noise.
I tried the long screw driver trick - putting it to different parts of the engine and placing my ear over the handle, and didn't really notice anything different from any part of the engine. I had it up on my lift, and it almost sounded like it was coming from the rear - near the tranny, but what the hell would tick back there? and how do I diagnose that?
I dropped the oil pan when I first got it and there was a very little amount of black rubbery stuff - presuming its timing chain guide/tensioner related, but no chunks, not really any metallic shimmer in the oil, so I guess it could be that, I'm gonna pop the valve cover off and inspect - but like I said, didn't notice anything with the screwdriver trick....I'm at a loss
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have 2002 Explorer with 4.6l that stalled at a stop light and upon restart, there was noticeable ticking and a sucking sound. The exhaust regularly sucks your hand against the pipe. Ticking is from all around the engine. Exhaust smells like rotten eggs.
Son was driving and we just got it back to house so I do not know much more than that. Where to start to diagnose.
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2002 B5.5 Passat v6
Want to take a 2001 Audi TT Quattro steering wheel... only horn... no switches, and swap it with the passats steering wheel, same setup just a horn on the passat steering wheel.
Is this possible to do safely, and do the harness is the same so i dont plug in new steering wheel and have the car blow all the airbags or throw codes?
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2002 Chevy Tahoe Z71 ... When I first turn my car on in the morning (or after an extended period of time - i.e. the car has completely cooled down) it makes a clicking / ticking noise that appears to be coming from the engine area. It lasts approximately 10 - 12 seconds and then simply goes away. This happens consistently. I recently had it serviced end-to-end: belts, plugs, total tune-up etc.
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Just noticed a ticking sound coming from my engine... just turned 160,000. Hoping nothing serious...
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I have a 2002 Audi A6 3.0 Quattro with a frustrating problem! There is a leak in the car causing the rear right floorboard to fill with water. I had it into the dealer in Oct. 2010 where they replaced the rear right window channels & seals & found the plenum drains & sunroof drainage to be ok, no blockage. I also had to replace the transmission module as it was filled with water from the leak! I have had problems with the rotation rate sensor & oxy sensor to the point of the ESP kicking on the anti-lock brakes at 60 mph, and have replace both of these sensors, thinking that was probably related to this leak also. I was vacuuming out the car today and found the floorboard to be wet AGAIN! The dealer just keeps the car for weeks trying to find this leak..
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I have a 2002 Audi A4 1.8T with 85,000 miles. Recently my car started overheating, I replaced the water pump, thermostat, and timing belt. The mechanic also ran tests to make sure there were no issues with the head gasket, those tests came back saying the head gasket was a-ok. Yet, my car is still overheating but only on days when the outside temperature creeps above 90 and I am in stop and go traffic. I have to re-fill the coolant tank about once a week depending on how much I drive. I find no coolant puddles under my car when it is parked, so I do not believe it is leaking. What else could be causing my car to overheat?
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2013 Elantra manual. 60,xxxkm, owned from new, purchased in August 2013. Oil changes always done within 5-7000km. Was 2000km over my oil change due date when this happened (haven't had time to get it done, been driving my motorcycle mostly). Driving around today I dropped my wife off, then I heard a quiet ticking noise under very light acceleration.
The noise would go away under normal acceleration, no noise while revving, and no noise while engine braking. The noise got worse after about 5km. I was in traffic and engaged the clutch into first gear, the car stalled violently. Turning the key results in a click, then nothing. In 1st gear the car will not roll forward. In reverse the car will not roll back. It still rolls in neutral. Had it towed to my local Hyundai dealer and got a rental. Waiting on the results.
Never saw a drop of oil on the ground while parked, and never smelt any oil burning. I run between 87 and 91 octane, whichever is available. I have the extended 160,000km 8yr warranty, hopefully this is covered as I still owe about 15g's on the car.
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Here's a bit of background on the car itself:
It's a 2003 corolla, 180k miles, and was sitting an entire year. About a month ago, I replaced my battery, and did an oil change. After the oil change, I started getting a few random symptoms:
loud ticking sound in my engine
check engine light with code P1349, VVT System (but it's disappeared since)
oil light on and off, intermittently.
With a bit of research on the error code, people have said to replace the VVT-i actuator. Do you think this solenoid has a large potential as the source of the issue? I purchased one for around $100 from Autozone, but am having a tough time removing it from the engine.
If you think this is the issue, how can I remove the solenoid? Do I just unbolt the one bolt I see on there and yank? Or is there something else I'm missing?
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Audi A4 2000 with 200K on the odometer. The alarming flashing BRAKE light came on and the ABS light. My mechanic says they will need to replace the module (not cheap) but I wonder if I can just keep driving anyhow until inspection is due––hey, that's six months away. The car has great pep; the motor is good, the brakes are fine (recently replaced the rear brakes) so if I am just conscious of the lack of ABS––is there any problem here?
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Audi 99 a6 quattro. Motor turns, battery is fine. Engine does not ignite. Spark happens but the engine does not hold. After 5 mins car starts. Once its warm no problem starting. Cold start is the issue. what do you think is issue? fuel injection, fuel pump???. I have seen the car stall on second gear sometimes on high throttle, reduce throttle it will come back on. I am suspecting some issue with fuel injection????
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my audi tt 2003 convertible turbo has had trouble starting. the engine turns over just fine and up untill now it has caught, albeit a little slow. now I note that it still catches, about every 3rd try, but unlike before it isn't staying on no matter how much I try to rev the engine. We just had the spark plugs and 2 coils replaced. There's a coolant leak through the sensor housing (we have the part for that but hubby doesn't want to fix it) but we do keep coolant at sufficient levels. problem seems to get worse on colder mornings, but is not affected by cold in the evening. Yes, the check engine light is on. The codes have been read and it's coming up as the temp sensor (which part we purchased, but hubby doesn't want to install).
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I have a 2006 Audi A4 with about 90,000 miles on it. Recently, the engine has been making a clicking noise when it is warming up. Once the engine is warm it stops. No, performance problems, just the sound. It got an oil change recently (I always use synthetic oil), but the sound was occuring before and after the oil change. What it could be?
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