Audi - A4 :: 1996 - Gas Smell When Driving
Oct 5, 2013
My 84 year old mother has a 1996 Audi A4. This summer she took it in to the mechanic to find out why it smells like gas when she drives. The mechanics found no leaks and do not smell it (they say they just aren't as sensitive to that smell anymore). She says it is getting worse and now has to drive with the window open. Last week the mechanic went to her house to see if there was a leak puddling onto the garage that was causing a gas smell to seep into the car. They did find a small puddle but not enough to cause as much smell as my mom experiences. Also, she says the smell gets worse while she's driving rather than it airing out.
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I have a 2005 Audi Allroad and sometimes when I get in the car after work there is a strong natural gas smell in the car which goes away after I drive away. I park in an underground garage so for a while I thought it was the garage but I have smelled it on the week ends now too occasionally at home parked in the drive way. I also have a freakishly accurate sense of smell and have often detected smells others could not. I am sure it is not a gasoline smell but a natural gas like smell. What this could be?
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My 1996 Taurus has 202,000 miles on it. One day a while back I was headed home from work. I had the AC on and fan on HIGH. I all of a sudden started smelling something hot. I threw my sunglasses into the passenger seat and saw a gray haze in my interior and slammed on the brakes and pulled over thinking my car was on fire. I got out quickly and looked under the car and then under the hood. I then followed the HOT ELECTRICAL smell to passenger side floorboard under dash. Blower motor part so I changed it. The weather got cool again so i didn't need AC for a couple of weeks. Now, ANYTIME I try to put the fan on HIGH I get that hot electrical smell. The fan has 4 settings, on the first three it's fine, but as soon as you put it on high it smells very hot. My AC isn't as cold as it used to be but it was like that before the fan motor gave trouble. I think I just need to charge the system. Why my fan motor gets/smells hot on high setting. No fuses has blown. I definitely don't want to burn this motor up. I got new fan motor that has the same electrical connection so I didn't have to splice anything. Is something overloading??
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I have a ´96 Honda Odyssey. For over nearly 3 years I´ve smelled a stale smell when the heater is on. Slight smell with a/c. For the first year and a half it wouldn´t defog, just the bottom part of the windshield. But in the last year or so it´s been defogging pretty well, but the smell has gotten worse. I turned on the heater this summer for the 1st time in a while. Visible white fog poured out of the vents, along with same stale smell. Have taken it into 2 mechanics. They tested coolant lines and found no leaks. Said it´s not the heater core b/c the heater would have stopped working by now. What´s the smell? How to fix it??
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Mazda Millenia 1996-- Smell of gasoline & exhaust coming in when driving. When we open the hood - smell of gasoline. NO apparent gasoline leaks! Mechanic found fuel injector stuck open - replaced it. Worked a little better for a little while. It seemed to only smell for 5 minutes after starting the car instead of constantly. Mechanic changed the spark plugs. Worked a little better for a couple of hours. Now it's continuous smell of gasoline and exhaust.
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I own a 1996 Buick Regal with 132k miles on it, 3.1L six cylinder. The other day I was doing some general maintenance and noticed that the exhaust smelled like sulfur (rotten eggs). Now, I am loosely familiar with the causes of such a thing but not well enough to diagnose it properly the first time. The car has been idling rough since I got it (almost a year ago now), I have a feeling that it could be the O2 sensor causing the rough idle and the sulfur smell but I am not completely sure. I should have one of those fancy three-part injector cleaners done?
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My mechanic cannot figure out what's wrong with my car My car is a manual trans 1996 Toyota Corolla with almost 154K miles. I had the oil changed two weeks ago (about 1000 miles with my commute), and at that time, I let my mechanic know that it's been losing oil and so check it over. At that time, he changed the oil, cleaned the engine, and added a dye to the oil to show up any leaks.
I took it in this past Thursday for him to locate the leaking, and the mechanic let me know that 1) It came in mostly dry (no oil), 2) there was no visible leaking except for a seepage around the oil pan, which he says could not account for the loss of 4 quarts of oil in two weeks, and 3) it's not burning it out in the exhaust system.
A bit of the history of the car. I got it when it was at 59K, used, and there were a number of things wrong with it that I didn't discover until later, such as that no maintenance had been done to it at all in the 60K someone else had owned it. It came to me needing a timing belt, brakes, and an engine and radiator flush (the radiator fluid was brown instead of green).
At one point at around 70K, as a stupid teenager, I did let it run dry. The oil light came on, I panicked, shut it off, dumped in two quarts (which brought it to full on the dipstick, which I thought was weird), and took it straight for an oil change, where they told me it was dry, which was odd, because I'd just put 2 quarts in it.
After that, there were no issues until it hit about 120K. At that point, I started smelling burning oil and there was smoke coming from under my hood, so I towed it to my mechanic at the time. He replaced the valve cover gasket, the rear main seal, and the head gasket (with engine block machining and all). That more or less cleared the problem up, but then I took it across the country on a 3K road trip, and it ended up accidentally running dry again. Oil light came on, I shut it off, dumped in oil, took it for a lube job.
Since that time, it's been occasionally throwing me an oil light when I go downhill (I figure that this is because it's low but not out, and the change in pitch reduces the pressure?). Each time it does this, I've shut it off, coasted to a stop, dumped in 2 quarts (which brings it to full on the stick), and gone on, berating myself. These times have become more frequent, however, even though I now check the oil regularly.
So before I endure the deserved lectures about being dumb, yes, I blame myself, but regardless of my lazy maintenance, it's becoming ridiculous. My car is now finding a way to lose a gallon of oil over the course of 1000 miles, with no discernible leak or consumption.
Also, why my oil light comes on when it's only 2 quarts down on the stick sometimes, and then sometimes goes almost dry without throwing the oil light? I just got it back with the oil topped up, more dye in the engine, and instead of going for 2 weeks, I'm going for 1 week to see if maybe he can catch it in the act of learning this magic trick of vanishing oil.
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I have a 850 volvo 96 glt with overheating issue. I have replaced everything but still overheating. It only does it when I have been driving for about 15 to 20 mins. It goes just above 3/4 hot but not in to the red before it drops back down to norm temp (half way) it goes up and drops back down during driving and when i stop and turn her off i notice the filler tank bubbling even when the temp sensor is at half way (norm temp). Then with her cold and the lid of the filler tank, I start the car an can see bubbles coming up for the first 5min of warm up?
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I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee and am having a problem my mechanic can't figure out. Sometimes it starts, sometimes it doesn't, heat or time of day has no influence. It even dies while I am driving. While driving it will die and start again over and over. Sometimes it runs fine with no problems. Have had this problem for 1 1/2 years now. Have relpaced rotor, dist cap, pick up coil, tune up, computer sensor, fuel filter. So far nothing has worked.
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I am having a problem with my 1996 jeep grand cherokee. When I stop at a light and I am in drive, it wants to stall. If I am in park or neutral - no problem.
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I have a 96 Plymouth voyager my husband was driving it to work and he heard a knocking sound he pulled into a gas station where he put oil in it and had to fill up on gas when he went to turn it back on it wouldn't crank over didn't even. Make a sound like it was trying to crank I know I am due for a oil change but im not that much over..
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On Sept 10, 2011 I was driving towards a major highway when my airbag light came on. I just figured it was a sensor malfunction and kept driving. I proceeded to the highway and when I was up to 57MPH I put my cruise control on. About 3 minutes later both of my airbags deployed while I was driving. Do you think I need a lawyer?
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My 96 Buick Regal acts like it is out of gas after driving for about 10 min. Takes awhile to start, then runs rough if at all. After it sits, it runs fine again for about 10 min. I changed fuel filter, fuel pressure sensor and fuel pressure regulator.
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I want to get rid of the ringing alert when driving - actually I want it to go away for ever. I live on an island and this old truck has an "island only" registration and will never have to pass inspection again.
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I have a 96 Plymouth Voyager with 230,000 miles that will quit running doesn't matter if I'm going slow through a parking lot or on the interstate. When going slow like backing up or through a parking lot I put it in P and restart it. Sometimes the engine light comes on, sometimes not. When traveling on road or interstate I mash on the gas and it restarts with turning the key. Some days it happens a lot, some days it doesn't happen at all.
I took to shop and they replace the MAP sensor but the next day it did it again. I took it back and they put replaced it thinking it was just a bad sensor. It still didn't fix the problem so I took to another shop and left it there for a week so they could drive it hoping that it would happen for them but apparently it not. They did replace the ground wire in the wiring harness but two days later it quit running again as I was rolling down the interstate.
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96 Acura with a weird habit. On cold mornings, after a few minutes it starts this thing where it revs up about 500 or so, then back down. It does this while parked or when driving. When driving, it still revs up, but also revs down - like it's putting in extra resistance or something; have to give it extra gas when it does that. This usually stops once it warms up. Also, it runs a fair bit higher until warmup, then settles back down to 'normal.'
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My car stalls repeatedly while I am driving. I quickly put it in neutral and start it again. This can happen 4 or five times on a 30 minute trip, or sometimes, not at all. Someone said it could be the Mass Air Flow Sensor or Meter. Tried a new one and the car is still stalling.
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Once in a while after I get home, then leave again a hour or two later, I have a real strong gas smell coming from somewhere. I don't see anything on the ground coming from my car, but it is pretty strong.
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I have a 2004 Chevrolet Malibu Classic with 173k miles on it. Car runs great. AC works intermittently sometimes, but it's not a huge issue. It kind of stops if your in city traffic, but at highway speeds, AC is dependable. Particularly when running AC (or it may just be because it's the end of summer), I notice a smell on my clothes. It's not necessarily like standing beside the exhaust pipe, but after driving for a while with AC, I notice it. I also sneeze some when this happens.
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This is the second celica i have owned that has the speedo needle stick randomly after driving for a while. registers correct speed if i tap cover, but that's not great when driving down the motorway. didn't rectify first one so don't know what the problem is.
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I have a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. While driving the other day the steering wheel totally locked up. It was not like just losing power steering; you could not turn the wheel at all. I had the same thing happen 3 years ago and knew that if I turned off the car and restarted it the steering would unlock. I did that, it unlocked, and I continued on my way. A few blocks later, the wheel locked up again and this time the engine died after the wheel locked up. A few blocks more and it locked up a third time, the engine died, and I could not get the vehicle to restart for several minutes. The engine would turn over but it would not start. After finally getting it to start I pulled into a parking spot and called a tow truck. The mechanics have had it for several days and can not find anything wrong. It will not repeat this behavior and no codes come up on the computer. When this happened 3 years ago the same thing happened. The mechanics had it for several days and could never find anything wrong. I've been lucky so far in that this has only happened at low speeds and at places where there was not a high volume of traffic.
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