The car is not presenting any heat to the passenger compartment...mechanics suspect problem with "blend doors"...seems expensive to remove the dashboard on an 18 year old vehicle...
View 6 RepliesMy idle seems to always be somewhat rough whenever I put the heat on in cold weather. While in drive I'll come to a red light, heat will be on and I'll stop. The. my idle will bounce down then back up. I shut heat off to test and it only does it while heats on.
View 5 RepliesNissan Frontier 2004 with v6, air, automatic 4x4.... I only have luke warm air coming into my truck. The switch on dash switches from defrost to floor or thru dash . Was thinking maybe a switch under dash not working maybe, but do not know where to start looking.
View 3 RepliesOnly had my R32 a few months, but when i drive it after leaving it stood for a while (basically from cold), i find i am unable to accelerate briskly (not trashing from cold, but for example pulling out of a junction) the car feels flat like it's holding back, once over 3000rpm(ish) it seems to suddenly jerk into life.
In the lower revs you can put your foot to the floor, and whilst there's more noise the car feels very sluggish and lumpy.
But once the car has warmed up, and the temperature gauge has been sat at 90degrees for some time, the car will wake up and drive totally normal.
I have the 6463 software update, i also have the latest green top coolant temp sensor. There are no fault codes, or misfires registering on vag-com, and I've cleaned my MAF sensor (plus done idle and full load logs which all look fine).
I continue to have problems with my Chevy Beretta. The original problem was that -- after my neice's husband ran the car out of gas -- we had to replace the fuel filter. That was last spring. Afterward the car seemed to run fine until the weather got hot. Now it seems to stall generally in high heat and humidity.
I only paid $800 for the car, and my idea was to get everything fixed on it and drive it a while to get my money out of it. I don't want to go into debt for a car, and I don't want to buy another one (unless I have to). I travel a lot, but I don't need my car for work -- just for personal travel.
A local mechanic has changed the crankshaft position sensor and now the ignition module. I got the car out of the shop again yesterday, but the problem remains. I could barely drive it around the block this evening. The temperature is 73F, humidity is 84%, and dewpoint is 68.
Is this problem definitely weather related? What could be the cause? Vapor lock? An intermittent problem with the fuel pump, filters, or fuel injector? Is it possible to get this fixed for good?
My 2007 6.0 has a really rough (almost 'miss') during cold start up. After 5 seconds or so, it smooths back out and sounds normal. Until gauge reaches normal operating temp - there is a surge/lack of power during light acceleration. I also hear a frequent compressor coming on and running for a while which I am contributing to a possible vacuum leak. Maintenance is always done on time and I've already had a few costly repairs (both internally as well as externally) on the engine. I usually always wait for the glow-plug indicator to turn off before cranking the engine and let it idle for 5-10 minutes prior to driving it. Once the vehicle climbs to normal temp. everything seems to be fine but the compressor still comes back on every so often.IS it worth simply replacing the vacuum canister located behind the passenger side battery - or should I find someone to hook up a diagnostic unit first?
View 5 RepliesCold weather making my clutch soft... Or is it something else? I just drove it fine 5 hrs ago and now its cold as hell and can put it into gear.
View 1 Replies2001 Intrigue 3.3 L v6
Due to the cold weather, seems the battery could not start the car. I removed the battery to trickle charge it overnight in the house, and hooked it back up in the morning. It seemed to have sufficient charge to power the starter motor, but the engine would not turn over. I could hear a whirring sound whenever the key was turned, and the sound stopped whenever the key was turned off.
I am suspecting that the starter motor somehow is not engaging with the engine flywheel?
After the car has been sitting all night in the cold 20 degree weather, it is notchy when I upshift into third from second. I already swapped out the manual trans fluid with Amsoil 75w90 GL-4 manual trans fluid. It didn't really change anything, but I will say that whatever fluid was in there before was quite dark. It may have even been the original fluid from the factory (80,000 miles), I am not sure. The shifter is also a little stiff feeling when its very cold.
Once car has been driven for a little while (20+ minutes), and is warmed up real good it isn't notchy or stiff. Is this just something I have to get used to?
I was heading home last night from work and noticed something odd. It was the first pretty cold night that we have had around 20-25 deg. and I took off from the parking lot like normal.
When I got to the first stop light about a mile down the road I heard what sounded like the engine revving up right when I took my foot off the gas pedal. It did this as I coasted to the stop light. It also did it again at the next stop light just up the street. I thought maybe it was the heater blower, but It really sounded and felt like the engine revving. The car did not accelerate or anything, is this part of the warm up or normal? I also have the lower grill blocked but I don't see how that would make any difference.
My car is eating up battery power: only when outside is cold, below 10 C,something very strange, in summer days there is no battery draining, my climate stays adjusted at 19 C, but now is very cold and I make it 25 C,and then it is the mystery: the battery is draining for 2-3 hours below 10V?
I made some tricks:
-when the car i turned off while climate is set to 25C(or above 24C)-the battery is draining very fast, second battery relay switches on and I can turn the ignition on only with the key in!
-when the car is turned off while the climate is set to 18C(or below 24C) the battery drain is very small???
So does something turn on while the car is locked,or something is trying to keep any temperature inside? I double checked if AUX heating is off,and it is off,I don't have parking heater or anything. Another thing I notice is when I turn on the rear seats climatronic above 24C the voltmeter goes from 14V to 13V and stays there for a 5-10 min,if I turn off the rear seats climatronic or set it below 24V the voltmeter gets back to 14V?
Whats is happening with the car?
I have an 89 Volvo 244 DL series. I have had a complete tune-up, and oil change just recently. Battery works great, plenty of voltage, even had the fuel injection cleaned out.
Problem is the car starts right up when it is cold, however, after driving it and let it set for an hour the car starts up slower and immediately it stalls out. I do it again and the same thing happens and then I leave my foot on the pedal to keep it running at a higher idle for a bit and then place into a gear & it goes without any hesitation. If by chance I do not leave foot on pedal and put it in whatever gear it immediately stalls out. I have driven Volvo's for years, from the 70's to what I have currently. I never had encounter anything like this and have dealt with many other issues and this one has me baffled.
"Vehicle with smart key system: The indicator light flashes after the "POWER" switch has been turned OFF to indicate that the system is operating." I have noticed that my immobilizer light will not blink when it has the no start issue. usually when the key is out the light blinks but when it won't blink.... it won't start.
View 19 RepliesHad a really cold day here, got on the highway and from around 80-100 km/hr the car had bad vibration, would be unbearable for any extended time. I got up to about 120 and the vibration lessened.
View 5 RepliesSo this is weird. When it is cold outside it takes a few minutes before my stereo will work. It powers on and you get a quick blip of audio but then it takes a few minutes before it will work again. What is causing this issue?
View 3 RepliesMy 2003 Subaru outback has a gas smell when i first start it on very cold mornings. I live in New England. It goes away after the engine is warm. Also, it never happens in warm weather.
View 3 RepliesWent on a trip up to MI in cold and snow, and the engine light comes on. Great, I'm thinking, figuring me, the wife and our two babies stranded in another quality VW product. We pull over and call the closest dealer on the cell, and they say to just ignore it unless its flashing. When I got home, I vagged it and it says the cats were below their operational limit - I'm guessing too cold?
Whats the deal here? Can I look forward to engine lights everytime I go out in the cold? (this car is slowly driving me nuts. How can it be so bad and my Audi so good?)
For the last couple of summers my A/C has been very weak as the weather gets hotter (and trust me in Charleston, SC that's REALLY HOT!). I've had the pressure check on high and low side and it's good, checked that the compressor clutch stays engaged after the truck runs at idle for a few minutes (cycled on and off every 10-15 seconds for the first 2 minutes truck ran they stayed spinning). Seems to get pretty cold at night and cloudy days or colder days but when I really need it all I get is luke warm air at best. Check temps on lines coming in and out of the condenser. See attached picture.....
View 8 RepliesI have a Chrysler Neon 2001 and due to the recent cold weather in Montreal i had issues starting it. The battery seems to be functioning properly but when i try to start it, there wont be any sound what so ever, also i found a broken plastic pipe which im not sure what its there for ( I have uploaded a photo of it).
Link to picture : [URL] ....
Its not super cold but in Tampa ever since I installed my headers and its 60 or below i've gotten the VSC and ABS lights on in the dash after driving a little bit. Typically this is a cold morning type thing.
I reset the lights and it went away for a few days (it also got 30 degrees warmer) once it got down to 55 the lights came back on. Parked the car went in to work and when I drove home the lights were off (without re-setting the lights).
I know the codes can mean different things. The car is driving the same as always too- I have PPE headers, Ingen Intake, and a muffler delete.
I got a new Prius Plug-in 2012 and when the cold weather came this winter, which isn't that cold at 40F, the 12v battery seems to get discharged very often. This week, I must have jumpstarted the car twice already. The 12v battery seems to get drained when I park outside in the (not so) cold, or when I park underground for hours. I also notice that the traction battery gets filled up; it's as if the 12v battery drains into the traction battery.
(I leased a Prius 2010, not plug-in, for 3 years and this never happened even if I parked it for days in even colder weather.)