Audi - 100 :: 1991 - Engine Hesitates While Under Load And Accelerating From A Dead Stop
Jul 11, 2013
I have a 1991 Audi 100 that is flawless and paid for. 215,000 miles and doesn't leak or use a drop of any vital fluid. It does have one problem: While under load and accelerating from a dead stop, about 75% of the time the engine hesitates as if it is not getting any fuel. You step on the accelerator, get no response for one second and then off you go, no problem. On occasion while accelerating from a dead stop, the engine will quickly cough, pop like a backfire, and then catch. I have replaced the fuel filter, and through accident inadvertently found out that I seem to have excellent fuel pressure. While at speed, I seem to have little or no problem with instant acceleration when the accelerator is pressed.
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I have a 98 Audi A6. Immediately when I hit the accelerator from a dead stop I hear a slight bang that seems to come from under the car in the area under the front drivers seat. It only happens when I hit the gas and the car starts forward. I'm not putting the pedal to the floor either, just a nice gradually start from a dead stop. This is the only time that I hear this noise, nothing while driving or making turns. The noise sounds like when you might squeeze and empty tin box! that distinct bang you hear. What might this be?
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I recall some folks (with certain VIN#s) getting a TSP for correcting the lag when accelerating from a dead stop. I asked my dealer about it during routine service several months ago, but no fix at that time.
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My 2003 2.0 Zetec focus wagon has a problem when I hit the gas from a dead stop. The car hesitates for a second or 2, like it's not getting enough fuel, then it revs up OK. Not all the time though, about 1 in every 5 stops. Once it's moving, there's no problem, you can accelerate just fine. I replaced the fuel filter and added fuel treatment. I also saw it had a real bad valve cover leak that had flooded all the spark plug wells. I replaced the gasket, plugs and wires, but it didn't seem to make a difference. Using a scanner, I monitored fuel pressure at idle, it was about 38.5 PSI. When I hit the gas it it went up to about 40 PSI. I think maybe the ignition module/coil might be going out, but don't want to replace it unless I have to.
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I have a 2014 F250 with the 3.55 rear end and 6500 miles and since new it has a hesitation from a dead stop that I cannot determine if it is normal or not. I took it into a dealer that specializes in diesels and they drove it and told me it is normal. Every time I see someone with the 6.7 I ask them if they have the same problem and I get all kinds of explanations from turbo lag to protecting the tranny. The hesitation I feel is when I throttle from a dead stop. It is a very slight hesitation, but very noticeable, almost like a little "dead spot." If I take my foot off the brake and let it take off on its own for just a second or two and then throttle smoothly it is not there at all. If this is not normal, I want to do everything I can to get it fixed. It is driving me nuts.
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Our 2015 es350 with 2,500 miles hesitates when accelerating from a dead stop, such as from a stop light. We are told this is to be expected with this vehicle. The dealership test-drove the car and say there's no problem. But this hesitation is unlike any other car we've experienced.
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I'm experiencing an unusual grinding noise when accelerating from a dead stop but only in this specific situation.
1. When battery is at a low state of charge and the AC is on, therefore, whenever I slightly step on the gas the engine will immediately start.
2. Only under this condition, when I slightly press on the gas and the engine will start to charge the battery and propel the car at the same, there is a slight grinding noise coming from the front of the car. I don't know what this noise is, it sounds like gears grinding, it's very light though.
I know it's not the brake accumulator noise, because that's a whole different sound, and also this only happens under the condition I described above. When battery is low and ac is on, and the engine will need to start right away even when gas peddle is slightly depressed.
The best way to describe the sound is if you were to take a soda can and cut it in half and rub the two halves together (the edges) it sounds like that.
Also, there are no lights on the dash. It's a 2009 with about 73,400 miles.
The transaxle oil has already been changed maybe 10,000 miles ago.
The noise started recently, at least I only noticed it recently since it's summer and I have the ac on much more. There are no drivability issues, but the thing is, this noise was not there before, I know I'm not hearing things. You know when you drove a car for quite some time you will naturally know what sounds are normal and what sounds are new.
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Sometimes, when I take off from a red light or stop sign, my car makes a thump. This feels as if it is under the car, not a transmission shift noise. It would seem to me that it has to do with exhaust or fuel???? I am guessing.
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My wife and I are new Elantra owners, car is just about to hit 9000 miles on it. I don't know when the noise started happening, but wasn't too long ago. My wife is okay with it, but as for me I find it rather annoying that the car is so new and already making noises. I call it a click but she describes it as a thunk.
Here's the details. The car is an automatic for starters. The noise mainly happens when accelerating from a dead stop. I'll be at a red light and when it turns green, I let the brake go and gently step on the gas and click...there is the noise. Its just a single click, loud enough to annoy me and loud enough that I could hear it when the radio volume is set to 12 or so.
It has also happened mid driving when I release the gas pedal to slow down without using the brakes. Right when I release it, I hear the click...once again a single click.
Now I have taken it to the dealer as a concern because that click wasn't there when I bought the car. They told me it was normal and after waiting 2 hours for a simple oil change to be completed I wasn't ready to argue with them. But I am getting to that point that I'm ready to argue with them, considering the car is so new and still under the warranty.
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I am going to buy a cheap 2004 CRV from work. They think it needs a wheel bearing, and it might.. However I think the sounds we are hearing is a bad motor mount. When accelerating from a dead stop it makes an odd noise that sounds like a wheel bearing, but it is quiet at speed and while jerking the wheel.. There is no weerrweerwerrr... In Drive if you have your foot on the brake, and hit the gas the motor rocks back further than I think it should. After looking at the mounts themselves though, the only one that looks bad is the driver’s side trans mount (near the air box). It looks like the rubber is broken.. So If that is my bad mount would the motor still rock, or could I have another bad one somewhere??
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My F250 6.4, 3.73 Crew Cab Short bed vibrates when accelerating from a stop with my 5th wheel on. The 5th wheel weighs 12K. It is a medium to high frequency vibration that is felt throughout the entire truck. It continues through the shift into 2nd (TorqueShift Tranny). The harder you accelerate the more you feel it.
It does not occur if truck is unloaded and you accelerate at full throttle. Is this normal or should I get it looked at?
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Bought an 05 FX4 SuperCab in May - been in shop twice for a "clunking" sound when accelerating from a dead stop. Dealer says it's "operating as intended" and that no damage was being if I continue to drive. I thought it was a rear problem with the limited slip. Dealer says it's the tranny and that Ford is looking into the problem (apparently quite a few are coming back). She runs smooth and shifts fine once she gets going. Just starting from a complete stop feels painfully wrong.
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Intermittent chirping noise when accelerating from a stop. It sounds like a brake chirp but it comes and goes. Not brakes. Changed pads and turned rotors chirp is still there.
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This auto has 143,000 miles on it. I recenty noticed a creaking noise from the left front when accelerating from a dead stop. The shop I have used for 15 years said that the motor mounts are deteriorating and should be replaced. I trust the guy but would like to avoid the $1,400 repair. There are no symptoms other than the ocassional noise.
What is the downside of ignoring his recommendation? What other symptoms can I expect if I delay the repair? Can this be a serious safety issue? I plan to keep the car for another two years unless I bite the dust first or the engine falls out.
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My wife was driving this morning and the car stalled when she was accelerating from a stop light. Battery light came on and she could not restart the car no power. When I got there she was able to start the car again. I drove 10 feet when the car stalled again. Noticed that the EPC came on smelled rotten eggs or sulfur from the exhaust.
Used jump cables and car started, battery light gone but EPC light came on and stays on, no blinking. I drove back home about 13 miles and no problem. Took battery to test and did not hold charge, I will replace battery. Car was at the dealer for two weeks to get the CAM, cam follower and high p fuel pump replace. Is just a battery issue or another issue for the EPC light?
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I have a 2008 Audi A4. Today while at a stop light, suddenly, the 'check oil pressure' light came on. Immediately after the car died. I tried to restart to no avail. After pushing the car to a safer stop, I checked the oil level. It was perfect. I let thecar sit while I did some quick research on my smartphone after which I tried again to restart. The car was as if the starter was dead. It did not turn whatsoever. Next, a warning light came on to 'tighten fuel cap', which was completely secure. Then, a warning that my headlights were misaligned. I started checking fuses....all fine. The cars fan started and the check oil pressure light came on again. The car still will not turnover whatsoever, however, everything else works fine; lights, radio, fan, etc.... So, I called the dealer and theyre clueless unless they hookup the sensors.
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We've got a 2012 Hyundai Accent GDI. I've been hearing the rattle "ping" when the engine is under load (accelerating hard or uphill). I've read that this is typical for these engines.
I took it to our local Hyundai dealership since it's still under the 60,000 mile warranty. They updated the computer settings and I put in a fuel additive to clean up deposits. They also told me to buy name brand gas from here on out (Exxon, Shell, Mobil) as these engines don't handle cheap gas well.
Now that I've given you enough of a backstory, here are my questions:
- For those that have experienced the rattle "ping", what did you find fixed the problem?
- Any tips or things to look out for when cleaning the throttle body etc?
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Alright I drive a 05 1.8t with 68k original miles.. nder a full load my car bogs and hesitates. also my turbo will stop spooling and my boost gauge will go from 10 pounds to about 4 and i will have to let go of the gas and push down again for my turbo to spool.. What this could be I can't figure it out..
Here is my car.....
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Yesterday in MN when it was -17 while on the highway around 5 pm my 96 Audi A6 started accelerating by itself. I was able to get of the highway and to a parking lot where it idled in park at about 4000 rpm's before I turned it off and let it sit for several minutes. I started it twice the second time it did not rev up to 4000, it was just normal. My question is this a sign of something terrible or just the cold messing with my old car? Should I have something specifically checked out?
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This problem showed up this summer, different times under load: on hot days, going uphill, AC on. Also, always happens when the temp gauge is just above halfway. Even after a stall, I am able to limp home, and it improves the longer the car runs after the problem starts. First I replaced the fuel filter which was pretty dirty, the problem didn't improve, so had the shop run codes -- low ignition voltage. They replaced the coil, and that seemed to work for a while. Now, in109 degree heat, it's starting to hesitate again, but the engine light hasn't come on this time. I had to replace the radiator about 4 months back, when it was cooler, and don't know if it's somehow temp related. Also, haven't replaced the timing belt since I bought it with 90K (its has 119K now).
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So what I might have thought to be a transmission lag may be actually a dead zone in the pedal. When pressing the pedal from dead stop nothing happens until you press the pedal down further. Any way to reduce that or eliminate?
I'm referring to NA 2.5L engine with auto trans.
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