Astro - Chevrolet :: 1989 - Leaking Red Fluid Drips From U-joint?
Jun 29, 2011
My 89 Astro van is leaking red fluid when parked uphill (slightly) that drips from the u-joint closest to the transmission and only from the part that is in the yoke that goes into the transmission. I dropped the drive shaft thinking wrongly that there would be a bad seal where i thought the yoke went into i thought a second piece, but it is all one piece with a collar. When parked in the garage nice and level it did not seem to leak.
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Did ball joints this weekend and now have little axle fluid leaking out passenger side. was going to change axle fluid when i saw this so continued and when pulled the fill plug i would say 8oz or more came draining out. Did I mess up the seal inside the tube?
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I have recently run into a problem with my transmission on my van, mainly that it won't drive forward, however reverse seems to work just fine. Prior to the problem: Before it stopped working altogether, there were a few symptoms that I should tell you before we get started. First, upon starting the vehicle and putting it into drive the vehicle acted like it was in neutral, or barely crawled forwarded. If you waited a few moments, or pressed the accelerator, it would quickly engage and once it had been driven for 5 minutes no more problems shifting gears would occur.
I attributed these problems to low fluid and/or cold fluid (as the problem would noticeably become better/worse with warmer/colder conditions respectively) So I was content with topping off the fluid and seeing if the problem persisted consistently when it got warmer. 2.) There would be at times a loud clunk when the gear finally engaged after pushing the accelerator.
I have a repair manual for the van which has a trouble shooting guide and it said to check the universal joint. I did, and it seemed intact, rust free, and fine. I researched it a little more and did not see any indications that this was an awful horrible problem, so again, I decided to wait until the weather changed to investigate further. Problem: One day I drove the van to north Austin and left it in a parking lot for a few hours while I went inside. When I came back out and started the vehicle it would not engage 'drive' no matter what I did. It has since been sitting in the parking lot for about 2 weeks and the owner finally gave me the boot so I pushed it out onto the street.
What I have tried: I found a leak where the transmission fluid connects to the radiator (a hose was clamped too hard) and seemed to have fixed that problem. So that solves the problem of why there was low fluid in the first place. I took the doghouse apart and replaced a few vacuum lines that were extremely worn and damaged. At one point this was causing the van to stall immediately after starting, but have since been fixed. I checked the shift linkage where it connects to the transmission housing and, luckily, was able to view the dial on the transmission case where it connected; all moves of the shifter do in fact engage the dial and turn it. I pulled the two electrical connections off of the transmission housing to inspect them for burns or corrosion, although I would doubt reverse would work if they were damaged, and found none. They seemed to be in fine shape. The throttle cable seems to be fine. The speedometer cable is missing I believe because I can't find it and the speedometer doesn't work. However, unless I'm missing something this wouldn't cause the problem. Fluid seemed dirty, but I did not feel that is had be roasted over a fire pit (indicating burned out parts?)
Possibilities: I am going to drop the pan today I hope and investigate a little further inside the transmission. The transmission fluid does NOT seem to be getting any hotter than luke-warm. From what my manual tells me this should not be. Transmission fluid should get to a point where it is too hot to comfortably touch. I am wondering if this could be caused by one of three things a.) Broken pump not circulating the fluid b.) Clogged filter - fluid unable to circulate c.) No vacuum - not allowing the pump to get adequate air pressure to operate. I am wondering if, maybe, the fluid is not being warmed enough to expand correctly to let the transmission operate.
I have heard that these go bad, but are cheap and easy to replace. I have put this option off because I'd assume the regulator controls more than one thing and so if it were broken something like say, the fuel system would be affected as well. Maybe I'm wrong? Could it also be the hose itself? I think there is also a short somewhere in the electrical system, although I think it's located in the heater wiring, because the battery will drain heavily when it rains and the heater is engaged. I have read somewhere that this may cause the transmission not to operate properly, but it seemed to me like it is something else. In any case, I have been stuck in Austin now for quite some time, don't have money to pay a shop 2,000 to diagnose, over charge me for parts, and charge 10 hours of labor for a rebuild when you can buy these transmissions, it seems, for relatively cheap. I am hoping this is a relatively simple problem that someone here would be able to recognize and diagnose, or at the very least be able to say: "Check and fix these 4 things and come back." I'm trying very hard to learn this car inside and out and the repair manual I bought doesn't want me playing with the transmission at all - simply says "take it to a pro chump"
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My car is leaking fluid from the right front side. What it is.
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My 2007 Tahoe is leaking a bluish or greenish fluid from the rear driver's side. I have not looked to see exactly where the leak is coming from, but was wondering what this could be?
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1989 Shorty - 3.0
problem with washer fluid - the motor seems to work, but nothing comes out of the tubes...
I know the motor works, cuz there is water all over the engine compartment (near the battery) and down... soaked there...
so, my guess is that the rubber has come off the pump? where is the pump first off, and second, how do I get to all that? - just remove the cowl?
any diagrams or photos would be great!
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Last night at 2am and it was about 10 degrees out (I say the temp because it might matter?) I started my car, let it warm up to normal running standard and backed up. My car moved backwards but the wheel would not turn at all. I pull forward into my parking spot and noticed that the wheel is extremely hard to turn left or right... almost impossible.
I check under the hood and noticed that my car was leaking something onto the group but it was dark and I couldn't quite see what it was.
Checked this morning and I found that my power steering fluid was completely empty. I had a half bottle in my trunk and put it in my car, then turned my car on. All of a sudden I noticed that the fluid is leaking onto the ground. Not really leak, more like a slow/medium pour and the wheel still wouldn't not move.
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2001 chevrolet astro van won't start, I have spark and fuel. compression ok.
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we have a 1995 chevy astrovan. Some days it runs just fine and then others it cuts out repeatedly when we slow down or brake. It?s been to the mechanic a million times and he can?t find the problem?
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The air bag warning light is often, but not always, ON in my 1998 Chevy Astro. Unfortunately, it is ON whenever I seem to have a chance to bring it in for state inspection. My mechanic of many years has been unable to determine the cause.
(Note: An earlier problem with the battery draining was taken care of by turning the Dome Light button to the Off position and leaving it there permanently.)
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My wife drives a 1995 Chevy Astro. It has twice now stopped running with no warning. This happened while driving down the road. The headlights and engine cut out, but the turn signals, power windows, radio display, and such have power. Once it sits for a couple of hours, it starts right up and runs fine for weeks.
Is there an electrical connection of some kind between the fuel pump and the headlights? What might be going wrong?
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2003 astro - misses and chugs and clunks until i get up to 40 miles per hr...
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I've taken it to a half dozen mechanics, none can diagnose the problem. From a cold start the engine idles well, but once it warms up and the fast idle setting shuts off, it begins to vibrate quite a bit. I rebuild that included an all new fuel injection system, new ignition parts (including distributor, replaced at a later date,) new wire to alternator (the old one had cracked insulation,) and a new mass airflow sensor (swapped in from a parts van-no effect.)
Basically everything is new except for the sensors (crank sensor, idle air, throttle position, etc.,) and the fuel filter and pump. I'm not getting any codes, and at least two mechanics said it had good fuel pressure. It FEELS like a vacuum problem on a carburetor vehicle, but I had the vacuum harness checked as well, and everything seems to be in order.
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I've recently been having battery drain issues with my 2002 Chevy Astro. After taking it to a local garage I was informed that nothing was wrong with it other than it needing a new battery. They put a new battery in and within two weeks of the van not being used the battery was dead. I did a bit of research online and learned that something may be drawing power while the van is off, and that I could do a fuse test with a multimeter. After performing this test I narrowed down the drain to being related to the following fuse:
19 Instrument Panel Radio: ATC(Main Feed), 2000 Series (Standby)
The only things that seem to be on this circuit are the radio, cd player and some elements of the instrument panel (e.g. odomoeter). I'd like to fix this problem but I'm sort of stuck as to what I should start testing from here. Today I disconnected the radio and cd player and tried performing the multimeter test again, with the fuse back in place. It appeared that there was still excess power being used with the vehicle off.
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I'm working on a 1999 Chevy Astro 4.3L with an occasional crank, no start condition. On any given day, this vehicle will start right up and run fine, although some days it will start right up and have a part-throttle stutter; not a dead miss, but a stutter when accelerating that sometimes goes away. When it has the stutter, disconnecting the MAP sensor will cause the stutter to go away completely. I replaced the MAP sensor, but nothing changed. Today, it's back to its crank, no start attitude problem. The basics check out fine: good, strong spark at the wires, 60-65 psi of fuel pressure, and I even pulled the plenum to verify fuel is firing from the injectors. Everything seems to be happening as it should except that it will not start and run. I even tried doing the Passlock relearn procedure on it, despite spark and fuel happening when it should, one or both of which would normally be eliminated by the security system, but to no avail. What could possibly cause this here-today-gone-tomorrow no-start condition?
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I have a 95 Chevy astrology van that I've owned for about a year. On occasion (about once a month) when I start it, the battery gauge stays in the red and all the lights are dim. After driving a bit I can stop the van and restart it, and the battery gauge normally shoots up to normal, and lights are all bright again. Don't have any problems outside of that, until now. For the last 4 day, my battery gauge has refused to pop out of the red, and lights are always dim. I can drive for a couple hundred miles and nothing changes. Last night, as I left work, it ran like it has been with low battery and then just died. There is no clicking, no "whirring" sound the starter normally makes, the battery just died. I'm on a very small budget and can't afford a shop, or both battery and alternator. What are your thoughts on this problem and where should I invest my money? As a side note, battery cables and posts are cleaned off, and are bolted securely. Nothing loose and no corrosion.
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My 1999 Astro van recently started making LOUD rattling noises under the hood. No previous problems, ran great up till pulling into my driveway. It does have 160,000 miles on it, but has always been excellently maintained. Towed it to dealership where they told me that "by the sound of it" it would need a new engine. This van is fully loaded, power everything, leather interior, paint job is great, everything works. Breaks my heart that I may have to junk it. So, the big question is, junk it or get a new motor?
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I just had a rebuilt engine put in my 1999 Chevy Astro. However, when I got it back the lighter and auxiliary lighters don't work. I checked the fuses under the driver's side dash and the one for the lighter looked good. I change it anyhow, and it still doesn't work. Anything else I should check? I am planning a long trip and would like to use my radar detector.
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I have a 1997 Astro van and recently I shut the back doors (two door version) and now they will not open/unlock. I tried the power locks as well as the key. I read where you can take off the speaker cover in the door and reach thru and unlock/release from there. That did not work either. Not sure WHY Chevy decided not to put interior release handles. Any trick to opening the doors so I can see what the problem is?
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I have a 2000 Chevy Astro van, and I have this problem that no one seems to be able to figure out, let alone fix. Occasionally the car with have all the lights inside and outside the car start to "pulse". The needle on the voltmeter will be noted to surge from the average just above 14 mid point on the dial on the meter face to over this in a pulsing motion, in time to the light pulsing. I have replaced the distributor cap, coil wire, and the car has been with the mechanic numerous times. His diagnostic equipment does not pinpoint the cause of this problem. What to try next?
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I have a 2001 chevy Astro 2 wd. After rebuilding the motor it cranks has a spark and is getting fuel but won't start. Has a new starter new battery new coil crankshaft position sensor new distributor, cap and rotor plugs and wires but does not start...
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