Arctic - Cat :: 2001 - Start To Stutter / If Open The Throttle Too Much Then Just Dies?
Jul 14, 2011
Im working on a 2001 arctic cat 300. After it is started it will run fine for 5-20 sec. 5 sec at idle, and around 20 with more throttle, then it starts to stutter and sounds like a two stroke. If I open the throttle too much, it just dies on me. The interesting thing is that if I restart it, it will run fine for another 20 sec.
The trick I have found to get it running like it should, is to open the trottle very slowly over a period of as much as 5 minutes. After that it will run perfect! The air temperature is that of a typical norwegian summer, ie in the 60s. But it shouldnt take THAT long to warm up. lol
The engine is a four stroke, single cylinder, cv carb, electronic ignition. The carb is the keihin cvk32. What could cause this kind of problems? I have of course taken apart the carb, and cleaned it.
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My truck will set an idle fine but when I hit the throttle it will die.
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I have a 1993 corolla that runs fine once warm. The problem is a cold idle problem. When starting it cold, it dies unless you feather the throttle. I can keep it running by feathering the throttle until it warms up. Once warm it runs fine. If I let off of the throttle at all during the warmup period, it dies instantly. How does the choke work on these vehicles? Could it be a IACV problem? Anything else it could be?
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2001 V6 Passat with 125k miles throwing a P0430 code.
Having trouble on cold starts, takes about 10 minutes to finally get it to turn over. When it does the idle is extremely rough. For the first 1/4 mile the car bucks, stutters, and misfires. After that it runs fine and starts fine when already warm. I am noticing slightly decreased gas mileage but nothing major.
Valve cover gaskets were replaced 2 months ago, but were leaking oil for at least a year before I could afford to have them replaced. I am still noticing some oil leakage, however not as much as before. I have had both O2 sensors replaced twice in the past 5 years. Timing belt was replaced at 98k. What might be causing the starting issues?
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My check engine light came on the other day and the code stated the the "throttle position is open" so after researching and everyone telling me that i need to change the sensor. I did everything after was fine running better but today only after 3 days replacing it i get the same problems. car has no get up and go hardly can push to 20 mph and when in idle i press the break it starts to bog down and almost want to shut off! and can be really loud...
Santa fe 05' 3.5L ....
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I got a 2001 Escape XLT (V6) a couple of months ago. Its in great condition, only 82k miles on it too. It had the notorious door handle issues which I have had fixed. It also had the wet weather stuttering problem, which I had fixed by having all 6 spark plugs replaced (Motorcraft OEM plugs), the back 3 coils replaced, upper intake gaskets replaced, Valve cover gasket replaced, PCV valve replaced (motorcraft).
It runs great when its warm, the problem I am having is when its cold outside and the engine is cold, it starts up fine but idles like crap and if its really cold outside, it starts and dies 3 or 4 times before it can even get to the crappy, stuttering idle. I have to intermittently feed it gas to keep the cold idle going long enough (3 or 4 minutes) before I can drive it. Once the engine is warm it drives like a champ. The only warm engine issue, is occasionally after driving it and putting it in park, the engine will rev up to 2000, 3000+ rpms, and just keep going up until I shut the engine off.
The codes read P0171 and P0174, which are lean on bank 1 and bank 2. It had also thrown a misfire on cyl 6 but once I cleared that it hasn't come back, just the lean codes are still present.
From what Ive been reading, this can be a number of issues, ranging from the IAC valve, EGR valve, MAF or the lower intake gaskets. I'm very much a rookie when it comes to car mechanics, but I think I can handle changing the IAC, EGR and MAF since they are all on top of the engine. However I don't know if I could handle the lower intake gaskets. Ironically, the gaskets are the cheapest part, but the most labor if I paid someone else to do it.
If I replace the EGR, do I also need to replace the EGR Modulator as well? Looking for brand names that are best bang for the buck when it comes to these other parts I have mentioned?
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My 2001 6.8 L V10 runs great all day & night without issue, but first thing in the morning when below freezing it has a hiccup. It'll fire right up and stutter and stall within less than 2 seconds. Usually twice. Third time it fires and keep running. Is there a fuel check valve somewhere on this thing? Not sure what that would have to do with the temps. Wondering if it's/there's an easy fix or not?
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I purchased a 2014 3.6 SEL from a non VW dealer. They may have put regular gas in the car, I feel like it runs weird, feel a delayed throttle response and a little stutter before acceleration? or is it just me?
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2006 Honda CRV, throttle by wire. How can you get the throttle plate open to clean the throttle body etc.
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I have a 2005 Focus 2.0 ZX5 manual. 131,000 miles. I believe this has been an ongoing intermittent issue until now. Occasionally while driving before at 45-75 mph I would sometimes get a stutter like the throttle closed for a split second. Now, after installing a K&N CAI the dang thing is about undriveable. At idle no load the engine will not rev, step on the gas and all I get is a groan, pop pop groan slooooow climb in revs to @ 2000 rpm then quickly up to the fuel cut off. In gear , 1st or 2nd, trying to roll out off idle I get nothing more groan sloooow climb up to 2000 rpm then accelerates normally.
At speed in any gear when RPMs drop below 2000 rpm it will not accelerate no matter how hard I press on pedal. Up above 2000 rpm mostly normal unless I get out of throttle, then I get a bucking sensation from engine. I can pull away from stop if I give lots of revs and slip the clutch....not so good for clutch life...The MIL is on, P0113 IAT high bypass. Cleaned old MAF no difference. Replaced MAF no difference. Got a too rich code also but cannot remember DTC. I have also checked for air leaks after the MAF and it all seems rather buttoned up.
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I own a 2001 Daewoo Lanos S which has about 96k miles.
Today, I was driving my car home and it just died with no warning or anything. I drove it earlier to work and back and even an extra stop and didn't even could tell that there was something wrong. The power didn't go out though like from the battery. I then tried to start it back up and it won't start now. Like the engine can't get that kick to start up. I was told the oil valve gasket(?) was leaking, but I checked it everytime before I drove it and it did have oil in the car. Also, I have had the problem of smelling gas inside the car when I fill it up (fuel filter??) I know that the Lanos did have a recall over the crankshaft sensor, so could that be it? I just don't have a lot of money to spend on random parts that won't fix it nor (unless I absolutely have to) go to a mechanic since I live with one, just need the part(s).
Was so excited too because I just found a replacement for my passenger window regulator.
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Well i was driving the other night home and all of the sudden my 02 2.7 Awd Santa Fe dies and wont start back up. Of all places it dies on a hill around a big turn in front of a grave yard. I mean it didn't make and funny sounds or anything just died. What the problem could be. I just replaced the cam sensor last week, I have read that it could be the crankshaft sensor or even timing belt. It does have higher miles 189k.
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I am experiencing a new problem with my 2006 Hyundai Elantra. For the 2nd time now (meaning this morning) the car will not start the first time in the morning. As I turn the key past the "on" position all the regular lights will come on, bells ding, etc. but when I move the key to the "Start" position, where the car would normally crank over and start, the entire car electrical system dies. (Interior lights off, non-responsive with the keyless entry, etc.) Yesterday, I figured my battery cables might be loose or something like that. By the time I popped the hood (no more than 30-45 sec) everything turned back on. I then tried to start the car again and the car started normally without issues, with me having done nothing other than pop the hood by this time.
When my car sits all day at work and I return to leave it will start normally without problems. This morning is now the 2nd time this has happened. My battery is practically brand new as it was replaced about three weeks ago. So, my question is: What could be causing the car to not start in the morning the first time, but then somehow "fix" itself without any user intervention on my part other than popping the hood?
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2002 Elantra auto trans issue.
We are experiencing NO throttle after the car sits over night. But Not every time. When I write "NO throttle" the car will start but will not increase rpms with pedal input/movement. Runs at idle only. After a few minutes, it picks up the pedal input and is fine until is sits over night, sometimes.
I have changed out the TPS and no change. The car has just over 80000 miles and otherwise runs like a champ. There is no check engine light or any stored codes. The cable rotates freely at the TB. I read in the forums that the TPS replacements can be suspect.
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I've done everything I can think of, ive replace the starter, batteries and altenator, both batteries have at least 12.30 volts when taken out and checked, but i turn the key and it will have power then try to start and whole system dies and wont come back on, I've cleaned the terminals and posts to shiny and the ground connections but its still not getting power.
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Noticed road noise with the Generals. I know they're an aggressive tire. Just making sure it sound like a very faint version of what happens when you go over those rumble strips. Only happens after they're warm and on certain asphalt surfaces.. Wondering if its a balance issue. New R with 800 miles. Car steers and runs fine otherwise. 205/50-17's on VW Akiros wheels. Pressure at 41 psi.
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2001 F350 7.3 ... Below 35 degrees, truck is hard to start. Cranks for a while, sputters, dies. Repeat a couple times, finally starts running rough, surging and loping for 10-15 seconds before it settles down and runs smoothly. Recently had all glow plugs replaced. Next cold start didn't show much improvement (not as bad as sometimes, but wasn't very cold either).
Surfing here and other forums, I see suggestions about letting glow plugs heat longer after WTS light goes out. Some suggest as long as 60 seconds. In the past, I have tried waiting a little while longer after light goes out, or turning key off/on and letting it cycle again. But I've never really timed how long I was waiting.
We're having a warm spell right now, so I can't do much testing. But yesterday morning was about 30. I timed the WTS light and it went out after 10 seconds. I waited another 20 seconds.. about 30 seconds total. Starting seemed a little better than usual, and there was about 1 second of roughness before it settled down.
I need to do more cold weather testing to be sure, but it does seem like it might be better to wait longer than I have been.
On the other end of the scale, I saw a comment that glow plug cycle is dependent on oil temp, and they don't come on at all if oil temp is above 40. Is this correct? If so, is there any good reason to wait to start in warm weather? I'm usually pretty diligent about waiting for the light regardless of weather, but the truck doesn't seem to object if I get impatient and start it sooner in warm weather. If the glow plugs aren't even on, why wait?
Should I just totally ignore the light, and wait for some interval (or not at all) based on a semi-educated guess about how much glow plug time might be necessary for the current temp?
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Just acquired this car with 130k. The previous owner owned this car all throughout college and dumped an obscene amount of money into it for what it is. I have a stack of receipts and work orders several inches high that came with the car, with every single oil change nut and bolt this guy bought for it. It was sitting in his driveway for several months because couldn't get the thing running...it just stopped out of nowhere. He decided to part with it since he is working full time and has a wife and child to support.
The work that has been done from previous owner. All of this has been done in the past 2-4 years:
Fuel system: gas tank drained and cleaned out, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, new injectors.Ignition: distributor, distributor cap & rotor, spark plugs, spark plug wires. Coil is still original.Electrical: O2 sensor, ECM coolant temperature sensor, ECM (mom and pop shop replaced it with a junkyard unit from a different car, not 100% compatible with a 93 Excel).Engine: cylinder head rebuild, timing belt and components replaced.Misc: thermostat, coolant hoses, PCV valve, all vacuum hoses replaced, brand new exhaust from the converter back, converter has been hollowed out, new struts/shocks, tons of front end work, tires, MAF cleaned with appropriate cleaner, etc.
Here's what I have done:I replaced the throttle position sensor, replaced the air filter (it had a K&N that did not fit right), replaced the idle control servo, and also replaced the ECM with the correct one. Also replaced fuel filter, all fusible links, and the relay box for the fuel system. I've tested the TPS circuit extensively and it checks out both on the sensor side and ECM side. Also there is a TSB for a bad ground which would cause the TPS and motor position sensor circuits to mess up, but I have already checked them and they were fine.
Previous owner replaced a ton of parts, I can get the car to start and idle without much incident but as soon as you give it any throttle it gurgles pops and dies.
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I just rebuilt the Autolite 4100 on the 390 in the 62 T-Bird I just purchased. Starts up and idles great, but when I apply slight throttle, the motor shuts off. If I apply a lot of throttle quickly, it picks up fine and drives with no problems. No sputtering, or backfiring. I just slightly apply the throttle, the RPMs drop, and the motor cuts out completely. Starts right back up when I turn the key, but does the same thing, at any temp.
I originally thought it was a vacuum leak, but checked what few vacuum lines there were, with no leaks to be found. Hooked up my vacuum gauge and it read at a steady 15psi.
New mechanical fuel pump, haven't checked the fuel pressure yet, but I installed a see through inline filter, and it's filled up and pumps fine.
Timing is at 8 degrees, and vacuum advance is hooked up to the only vacuum line in the carb. New cap, rotor, plugs and wires.
I adjusted the idle mixture screws down until the idle dropped, then turned them out a half turn (I've read on here it should only be a 1/4 turn, so I'll adjust that later today). When I was messing with the carb yesterday, I noticed the inlet check ball retaining screw was leaking a bit of fuel, so I went over the carb and checked all the screws and tightened down what needed it.
When I rebuilt the carb, I left the original needle & seat assembly, since they were in great shape, and the ones in the rebuild kit were much smaller. The choke plate needs to be adjusted, as it doesn't open up all the way at full temp, but the engine did the same thing with the plate held open all the way open.
I've gone through everything else I think it could be, so I'm figuring it's the carb. This is my second carb rebuild ever (first was a Motorcraft 2150) and it went smoothly, and I double checked the floats and measurements.
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Did a little experiment today. I was in Fairbanks this week and today it was between -35* and -40*F. Quite frankly I was too lazy to park my truck behind the building and plug in, so I just left it running.
2015 F350 KR, 63k miles. Fully deleted and tuned with a PPE Ez-Lynk. I've been running the stock tune because mileage seems about the same between all of them and when it's winter with ice and snow, you don't go anywhere fast. 5W40 synthetic oil with 7300 miles on it and 220ish hours. Change engine oil soon light has been on for the last 200 miles and 20 hours.
I have the BD Diesel high idle kit with the rotating switch to adjust the idle level. Fuel consumption was monitored using the truck computer, which I have found to be very accurate on a consistent basis. Computer was reset at the start of each trial.
Trial 1: RPMS set at 1250 via high idle kit. Truck idled for 6 hours, 10 minutes. Fuel consumption was indicated at 5.2 gallons, or roughly .85 gallons per hour. Engine oil temp was about 185*F (remember ambient temp is -40). I was pretty surprised at how much fuel it used.
Trial 2: Back from lunch at Taco King. Figured the truck itself is pretty smart, so if the engine got too cold, it would probably boost the RPMS on it's own. Turned high idle off. Idled for 4 hours 15 minutes. Fuel consumption was 1.8 gallons, or roughly .43 gallons per hour. Engine oil temp was 150*F. Much more reasonable consumption.
.85 gallons an hour is pretty expensive but .43 gallons an hour is much, much more economical.
The biggest difference, besides fuel consumption, was engine oil temperature with a 35* difference. Is 150*F a safe, sustainable oil temperature for these engines to idle at without causing excessive wear?
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I just bought a 2001 elantra. The car frequently will jerk or stutter while driving like the gas is bad or it is starved for something. When the stutter problem happens while driving the check engine light flashes but does not stay on. It usually only stutter 1 time but has as much as 3. The other day when I was in a drive thru waiting to order the car kinda sputtered during an idle then shut off the check engine light did not flash at this time. It restarted fine after that.
I pulled the codes and read them and I have 2. I am not sure if they are related to this problem. They were U0D00 and P0705. For the P0705 I cleaned the terminal but did not pull the negative on the battery the reset the computer. I reset the codes and the problem still is happening but no new codes are present. The code P0705 has not returned since.
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