Airconditioning :: Car Surges / Lurches Or RPM Shoots Up To 1500 - 2000
Jun 7, 2011
Vehicle : 2005 Five Hundred (220,000 miles)
Symptom : Car surges (lurches or RPM shoots up to 1500-2000) when outside temperature is 75+ F and ONLY when A/C is on. In addition, when outside temp 80+F, A/C occasionally not as cool, and engine temp goes to HOT (nearly overheating. Shutting off A/C gets engine temp back to normal and surging issue goes away. Less frequently, car's RPM drops to nearly stalling and on a couple occasions the car actually stalled. Symptoms began around 100,000 miles. Lastly, this happens ONLY when at idle (usually in gear) or when coming to a stop or driving slowly, like in a parking lot.
Corrective steps taken to date: - Throttle body cleaned by dealer mechanic (I'm not 100% sure it was a thorough job.) - Thermostat changed. - A/C recharged. - Belts & fans checked - OK. - Engine computer reset (?) - battery disconnected by mechanic for 30+ minutes to "reset" computer.
This has been going on for at least 3 years now. I've been to my Ford dealer and an independent mechanic's shop numerous times for this. The dealer was never able to reproduce the problem. The other mechanic finally experienced the surging. Oddly enough, after each visit to the shop, the car seems fine for the day and then the symptoms begin to return in full force!
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I have a 2003 Jeep Wrangler (4 cylinder) that seems to be having a fuel problem.... about a month ago, it started lurching, having a hard time starting, it would lose power on drives and once or twice it has stalled on me while I'm driving on the freeway. I've had to restart my car going 60 mph... if I feel it lurching or surging, I have been able to keep the car going by shifting into a lower gear or taking my foot off the gas.
I just took it into the dealership and spent 1300 to get it diagnosed and fixed. I got a new timing belt, and a whole bunch of other stuff and on the way out, it stalled at the first stop light. Although it seems to be running better, it obviously didn't fix the issue. I took it right back and now they are going to have me bring it back on Monday to 'try to figure it out’. Where should I tell them to look?
Oh, and - I had to get a short fixed from the ignition key (I was able to pull the key out while the car was running) and they fixed it. But now, I can't get any reception on my radio...
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My 1992 Chevy truck started surging or revving up when in park. It will tac to 1000 rpm's then go back down - up and down. It won't barely drive down the road. Didn't know if this is a fuel pump problem or something more serious. We've replace several parts that were described on the internet as "could be the problem", but nothing has worked.
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I am having issues with my 2002 chevy cavalier.
The car occasionally surges forward while idle and revs up to 1500 rpm approximately occasionally when the air conditioner is on... if the brake is not applied I move forward.. the lurches are continuous every 3 seconds or so.
I am getting a code for an evap leak.. I have replaced the purge solenoid valve, gas cap, and checked all connections with no luck... slightly decreased gas mileage has occurred.
A little bit of a slick substance has been leaking from the car.. it has the consistency of water, but leaves a slight brown tinge on concrete.
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My F250 with V10 has developed an overheating problem. While driving, the temp gauge suddenly shoots to max, and the truck goes into limp mode. Turning off the truck and ignition, waiting a few minutes, and all seems to be well again - sometimes for only a minute, sometimes for several days. No steam leaking, the water in the reservoir seems to be normal temperature, the radiator is not overly hot, and the AC keeps on blowing ice cold. Me thinks it is not really overheating, it just thinks it is. So where to start? Change the temp sensor first, or the thermostat? It seems the hoses are fairly firm, I don't believe they are collapsing from suction.
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This car has 210k miles with very minimal problems. I'm the original owner and have always done my own repair work. For the last two years the car has been surging on acceleration. It is fairly rapid surging and it is intermittent. When it is especially bad I can let up on the throttle, press again and it may be OK...until the next time I accelerate. I have replaced a lot of parts, there are no trouble codes and nothing noticed in the data streams. I've tried four throttle position sensors (second one failed and set a code) and nothing makes any difference.
Here is a list of other parts I've replaced since this problem started, again nothing changes the surging, fuel pump (failed level sensor), fuel pressure regulator (pressure was on low side of range), idle air motor, map sensor, mass air flow sensor (swapped with my S10 pickup). I'm planning to donate the car to an organization after I get this problem fixed (my wife won't let me donate it with the surging problem since it could be safety issue if the car doesn't accelerate when its needed).
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I have a 2000 F150 with 4.6l triton 125k miles. i have a bad miss ONLY between 1500 and 2000 rpm. This will happen in any gear and in neutral, but only between those rpm's. seems to happen more constant in warm weather. This miss is so bad it feels like the transmission is going to fall out. but since it does it in neutral i doubt tranny problems. things I've replaced: fuel filter, tranny fluid and filter, crankshaft pos. camshaft pos, TPI, MAF, spark plugs, Ignition coils ( all 8) cleaned throttle body ( found 1 EGR port clogged completely )..
I had a couple codes but nothing constant. Been working on this for about 1 year. Codes p0320 (ignition speed input error) p0262 (injector circuit high cylinder #1). my only question here is...... What would only make this dang engine miss between 1500 and 2000 rpm. motor runs perfect thru all other ranges. idle... high speed.. and even throttling through this bad range is ok.. but when stabilizing between 1500 and 2000 starts jerking and missing like no fuel and no fire. i have put in superchip program couple years ago and it ran fine for about 1 year, then this trouble started... I have put back to stock program but still trouble.
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I was driving my truck and then started binging and I looked at dash and the air bag light lit up, what does this mean what would be wrong?
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I have a 2000 4X4 1500. Twice now I have been driving on the highway around 60 and when I pass over a rough area, the wheels bounce all over the place. After the first time, I replaced the shocks. But it happened again. The tires are new, and are balanced a rotated every 5000 miles.
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Since of lately my 2001 santa fe with about 143000 Km on the clock is having a ignition knock when the RPM is about 1500-2000, also changing to 2nd gear (Auto Box). What it could be and how to rectify it?
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The instrument cluster in my 2000 Silverado 1500 recently stopped working. All the gauges are flush to the left, except for the oil and battery which stay about in the middle. I ordered a different cluster online and went to install it today, finding that it still doesnt work. Except in this one everything aside from battery and oil are flush to the right. What to try next or am I going to need to take it in?
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I was climbing up a hill on the highway, and I was aware of my issue by the time I hit the top of the hill - my car far into the red zone on the temp gauge.
I pulled over just after i got off, let it cool for a few minutes, check oil and coolant and they seemed fine (from what i could, but it was dark. Drove home because it was only a few mins away, and it had cooled a bit already, but it started sounding really weird at low rpms (1200-1500) almost a clanging noise.
Just as i was pulling into my driveway, there were a whole bunch of weird noises, and at least one of them was me losing coolant from the cap. Turned off the car and the coolant overflow box was completely full, and the radiator cap had leaked some too.
Some other things i noticed - sounded like boiling water inside the large hoses, hoses felt empty, and the coolant box emptied all of a sudden after the hoses sucks everything back up.
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My 1994 Toyota Corolla idles at around 1500 and 2000 RPM just about anytime I drive it.
It is worst when I first start the car, and it gets better the longer I drive, however, it is still well above a normal idling range!!
I add oil regularly and do check the levels on most of my fluids on a weekly basis!
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I recently picked up a 2000 Excursion with the 5.4 V8. Engine has 150,000. I got it cheap because it has a surging problem over 1500 RPM. This problem is intermittent.
I have 1 DTC. P1000 which is OBDII checks not complete. I cannot clear this even using the factory procedures. FYI..I have a snap on solus scanner. I think this is a voltage problem, If you try to start the engine with the scanner plugged in, the scanner shuts off, so I'm thinking the PCM loses battery power supply when the starter engages, resetting the PCM.
This problem is NOT a miss.... something isn't opening or shutting off above 1500 RPM. This truck doesn't have an EGR system, it has the EVAP system. This may be the problem, thats why I'm here. OK. heres a list of what I've replaced since I started working on it.
Engine oil and filter
air filter
fuel filter
8 COP's
8 plugs gapped properly
cam position sensor
IAC sensor
MAF sensor
Removed throttle body and cleaned.
Vacuum checks. 22" at purge valve,fuel dia, and vacuum canister
Checking with the scanner at 1500 RPM with problem
SFtrim1% bounces between5-15
SFtrim2% bounces between2-0
LFtrim1% bounces between11-13
LFtrim2% bounces between 5-6
O2S11(mv) bounces between 200-781
O2S21(mv) bounces between 200-800
Ssystem is in closed loop holding throttle at 1500 RPM... Note engine surges when at the RPM or above. I'm thinking the engine is lean, not sure how to read the trim numbers...
Idle is fine ... Problem is intermittent ... Also noticed that engine will only advance spark to 30 degrees @2000 RPM during this problem. I have seen it advance to 38-40 degrees when I do not have this problem, so I kind of understand the power loss,knock etc due to the timing, my question is whats causing it to do this?
EVAP question.... The purge valve should open according to PCM command a certain value, correct? I can monitor the duty cycle % but cannot activate and check proper duty cycle through scanner . When I try to I get an error message of module error -unspecified.
Disconnected hoses at purge valve,Full manifold vacumn on one, nothing on other, no flow through purge valve, but scanner shows 30% duty cycle. I would think the should be a little flow at 30% Maybe my problem? Troubleshoot procedure for the EVAP would be good.
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I have a 00 Suburban 1500 4wd and when I move the steering wheel the tires do not turn. I looked and a nut is missing from one of the pieces! Not sure what it is called!
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So the other day I was driving to my storage locker about 30 miles away. All of a sudden my rpms would shoot up to 2000 rpms then back down to 1500 . Slowly they would go up higher every time. On my way back I was about 2 miles away and I lost 3rd and 4th a presume. I would be going 20-25 and it felt like it would be shifting up to third but would shift down to 2nd running 3500 rpms. I had to go 20 the rest of the time. Finally I got home and realized my dipstick tube wasn't in the tranny and must have lost oil. So I got it back in and added more. Thought it was the filter and oil so dropped the pan and replaced it. Still nothing.
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My 2001 Intrepid ran good before I removed the intake air plenum. I removed the plenum to replace the air coolant bleeder. When the plenum was removed, I left the throttle body connected and just unhooked the wires from the idle air controller (IAC) and throttle position sensor (TPS). After reassembling the intake, the car was idling up around 4000-4500 RPM. The idle is really rough as though it is hitting a rev limiter.
When I unhook the TPS, the car idles around 1500-2000 RPM but still acts like it is hitting a rev limiter. What might be causing this? I don't know why lifting the plenum and throttle body would wreck either of the two sensors. I also can't figure out why the car idles so much lower when the TPS is unhooked. Would that suggest the TPS needs to be replaced? The throttle is operating freely and is fully closed when I'm attempting to start the car.
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My car is standard 5 speed transmission, when my car is running my idle varys between 800ish to 1500 intermittently within seconds and if I don't drive it after starting the car it will stall on me (in neutral) after the rpms go up and down about 9 times.
The thing I found is if I disconnect my idle air control valve attached to my throttle body it stops the jumps in rpm. I have tried replacing the valve with one of my friends control valve Hyundai accent 2004 that works and fits perfectly on his doesn't work on mine. Right now I have my idle air control valve disconnected at the moment but i want to fix this issue because my rpms are at 1300 at idle.
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Fault code : P1586 MT/AT codification, no check engine light, the glow light is blinking when I give ignition but if I turn off and turn the ignition on again the light it will go off. What I noticed is between 1500rpm and 2000rpm the engine is hesitating, like not getting enough fuel.
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I have an 02 Santa Fe with the 2.7, 4x4. This started a few weeks ago. When it is first started, it cranks over for a few then starts, idles 1500-2000 rpm. It is a little hesitant at first, but will eventually run fine. If I go to the store after it is warmed up, shut it off, then go back to start it again after shopping, it does the cranking over for a few, and when it starts, you can smell gas (strong smell). when you go to take off, it hesitates real bad, backfire rumble through the exhaust, has no power, bucks, and you have to feather the throttle to keep it running. If you put your foot to the floor, it does nothing, 20 mph if your lucky. if you can keep it running long enough without it stalling, which it has done, and hit the highway, and get going, it will eventually work itself out and run ok again. There is NO CEL. It is getting worse.
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My toyota will not idle. The last time this happened, it needed a new battery. The idle is controlled by the battery. The alternator doesn't kick in untill 1500 to 2000 rpms. The battery checks out OK this time. It's an 03 4cyl.
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