Aerio :: 2003 - Suzuki Idles After Cleaning MAF And Installing K&N Filter On CA
Apr 7, 2016
Some time late last year a branch or something managed to rip my filter off my cold air intake.. the check engine light came on and I ignored it, simply thinking I had not tightened the gas cap.
So last week, I went to get my 2003 Suzuki Aerio SX, with 160K miles inspected, and they told me it was through a code that the mass air flow sensor was bad.. Later they find out my filter is just missing.. the clamp and a section of the rubber was still on the tip.. but the rest of long gone.
So I have been driving, 4 or 5K miles with no filter. I buy some mass air flow sensor cleaner, spray it and now my car idles at just under 2K RPM but slowly creeps up to around 3K RPM. It drives fine, but when I pop it out of gear or hold the clutch down. it starts to go nuts.
I put a brand new K&N filter on, I didn't add any oil to it as it didn't say it needed any and it wasn't dry, but not soaked either.
Now when I went to remove my Mass Airflow Sensor, I did remove a couple other parts first by mistake. I fiddled with the temperature sensor inside my cold air intake, but I couldn't get it out due to the rubber ring around it holding it in and sealing it. I also removed the Fuel Injection Manifold Pressure Sensor but I am pretty sure I put it back on fine. and I did remove the Throttle Position Sensor.. so maybe thats my issue?
what should I do to troubleshoot it?
I sprayed wd40 on the throttle above the engine, not sure if it was it or not but my engine was idling at a lower 1800 rmp for a while, still high but not as bad, I took it for a ride around the block and when I got back it was at 3K again, it did run at a steady 20 mph in second gear with my foot off the gass completely.
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I'm wondering, is there a way to disconnect AWD and have my GF's 2003 Aerio SX be driven only by RW or FW drive train?
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I do not know much about cars. I tried to consult my owners manual, but no luck. The problem is this. I have a 2004 Suzuki Aerio with about 73,000 miles on it. When I have my blower on (regardless if hot or cold, ambient, defrost, or AC) and I turn left, my car starts making a "shoof" noise kind of like a large stack of paper falling over. Just today I noticed that the floor of my front passenger area was wet and discovered that there is also a leak or leaks coming down from behind my glovebox when I make these left turns. If I don't have the blower on, there is no noise and (presumably) no leak. The contents of my glovebox are completely dry. I am at a loss as to what is causing this.
What this is, whether it is serious, and can I fix this myself or do I have to take it in? And if I have to take it in to get fixed, how should this problem be described in order to get it fixed properly? I had brought it in to a Midas a few weeks ago about the noise (before I discovered the leak and the air-dependence of the problem) and the guys there said that they heard the noise but thought it was just my wheel rubbing against the wheel well when making sharp turns and that it wasn't that big of a problem.
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Weird problem I've had for some time... The car makes a noise that sounds like a slipping belt and only does so at a speed of 15 mph or more. Its a manual and I know it can't be a belt because I've done a little testing while driving. I'm going down a hill, put it in neutral, turn the engine off completely and coast down the hill and the noise is still there. So nothing in the engine is turning at this point, I'm just rolling. So what is moving at this point that could make such a noise?
It also makes the noise when the engine is running and what's weird is I can almost make it go away (the cycles of the noise become less and less frequent if that makes sense) while in gear if I apply the gas just a touch to a point where I am neither accelerating or decelerating. What this noise might be?
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i just recently went to a mechanic check out my wife's car cause it was vibrating really bad, and a pulley was making a lot of noise... they told me that the alternator bearings were shot, and i needed 4 motor mounts, long story short i changed the alternator.... it wasn't the problem... had them check it again, they said power steering.... i didn't want to waist a couple hours of work again, i checked it myself like i should have done in the first place... and found out it was the tensioner pulley.... so can i get any pointers on how to change the tensioner pulley, cause i tried and i lacked about 1/4" of space to get the bolt out... do i need to drop the engine or raise it? if so how.. 2005 suzuki aerio 2.3L .....
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We just purchased an Aerio for my teenage son. We all just love the car. It is the base sedan with 5-spd. There is one problem we did not notice on the test drive. It seems that when the front windshield was made, there is a slight "wavy pattern" that you can see. While it does not inhibit your vision, it is a little irritating.
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I have a 2005 Suzuki Aerio with an automatic transmission. Occasionally, maybe once every month or two, the check engine light will come on while I am driving and the car will immediately stop down-shifting from 3rd gear. The car otherwise seems to run fine but I end up having to manually shift to get to wherever I am going. Then on my next trip, the transmission will shift fine but the check engine light will stay on for an additional trip or two and then go off. What is going on. By the time I get to it the light is off again and the car seems to function fine.
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The car is a 2004 Suzuki Aerio with 68k miles on it. I've owned the car since 25k miles, and performed all maintenance on time. The car was also maintained well before we owned it (receipts). I've taken it to our garage 5 times now, for the same noise. Here is the timeline of events:
1) Two months ago started making two noises (rattle over bumps and a faint clunk on driver's side when turning). Garage replaced control arm assembly on both sides.
2) Took it back a week later because it was still making clunk (It got worse over this week, and then stayed at this level. I can feel it under the driver's side floor board. Sounds like a clunk/cracking noise) and was making a new rattle. Garage said their air wrench was messing up the first day and a heat shield came loose.
3) Another week later, still making clunk and making yet another weird rattle/grinding noise over bumps. Garage said this time that it's another loose bolt on the control arm assembly. Tightened and double checked everything. They seemed apologetic and embarrassed about the loose bolts.
4) Another two weeks later, still making the clunking noise. I take it back and take our mechanic for a ride. He hears it. I call back later that day and they say they can't find anything wrong with it (checked struts, front suspension, and cv joint). I speak with a different mechanic and he tells me "we don't do any fancy hard turning when we take the cars for test drives. We drive them like most people with old cars drive them." This seems to infer, to me, that it's only making this noise because I drive my car hard. Fyi, I drive reasonably. They say they had my mechanic, the other mechanic, the shop owner (who was on vacation that week), and ANOTHER mechanic from a different garage looking at it, and they can't find what's wrong. Bring it back next week.
5) Yesterday, they say they looked everything over and couldn't find anything wrong. Said they would have to diagnose it by feel. I have to work, but my husband picks it up and says they said it's play in the drive shaft causing this noise, and that they didn't seem worried about it. I only paid for the first visit.
Does this sound reasonable? Should I take it somewhere else for a second opinion? It does it on turns weather I'm on the gas or not. I like this car and I'm hoping to keep it for at least a few more years.
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I have a 2004 Suzuki Aerio with a 2.3 4 cylinder 5 spd. The problem I'm having is when I accelerate the car pulls to the right hard the steering wheel turns about 5 degrees. When I left off the throttle the steering wheel comes back to center and I hear a pop and feel coming from the passenger front. It also does this while I'm at speed I can hit a bump in the road and get the same problem. I just gave the car an alignment and the issue got worse now my whole car feels like it shifts to the right and left.....
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I have an '04 Suzuki Aerio, and there is a loud popping or knocking sound coming from the front of the car when I drive it. I don't seem to hear it when the car is inert (i.e. idling or traveling in a straight at a constant speed). I hear it intermittently when I accelerate/decelerate or turn. I hear it in drive and reverse. The strange thing is that it seems to go away completely when it is raining, and then come back when it stops raining and things dry out. It has been happening for a month or two. I think it has been gradually getting a bit louder. What could cause this?
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I know the cabin or A/C air filter is to filter out pollutants, etc. like the ones in home A/C so you have more comfortable & cleaner air into the car.
But is it really necessary to have & replace or just a nice convenience (and thus extra hassle to maintain) in modern cars? I believe old cars 2 decades or more back didn't have these right?
Just asking this because
(1) I don't care that much about really clean air coming into car, and more importantly
(2) I just replaced the cabin air filter in my Suzuki Forenza. I didn't know it had one until I did some research. Manual didn't really point it out, and the dealer & mechanics never mentioned it whenever I brought in for service. So all this time, I think I've been using the original filter for 7 years (60k miles), or if not then at least half that (assuming dealership did their part to replace the filter at the right time for 30k or other interval service). The original filter mentions to inspect & replace as needed and using a dirty one can damage the blower or something like that.
So what's the worst that can happen if you just keep using same old cabin air filter and never replace it? Will it kill your heating & A/C system or parts of it? Or just really dirty air over time?
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I cleaned the throttle body with CRC throttle body cleaner and now the motor idles at 1000-1300 rpm. Is this normal for a newly cleaned throttle body? How can I bring down the idling rpm?
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So my 2011 maintenance book says to "clean" my cabin air filter at 15,000 miles. I haven't pulled it out yet but after reading 10,000 posts on the subject, not once did I see a reference to anyone "cleaning" a cabin air filter.... Am I missing something ?
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I recently bought a certified used 2012 F-350 a couple of weeks ago. I was reading the diesel insert in the owners manual and came across the exaust filter cleaning notification. I have already put almost 3000 miles on the truck and have yet to see the notification. My brother has a 2013 and said that his comes on every week. I don't know what the previous owner did to the truck, if anything. It is very clean and everything else is stock. I am averaging over 19 mpg combines and it runs great. This is my first diesel truck and I am certain that I will never go back to gas.
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I got a 2 second "cleaning exhaust filter message" on my drive home tonight in my new truck with about 500km. I completed my drive and pulled off the highway into my yard. I don't know if it had finished cleaning yet but I unloaded the bed and then got back in the truck and drove another mile or two until the fuel economy was normal normal again.
The reason I did this was the underside of the truck was clicking and pinging as it cooled. You could smell the heat. Is it necessary to drive to complete this cycle? Or could I have just pulled in and shut it off. I'm sure it would finish on the highway in the morning. Other then the fuel economy increasing I couldn't tell anything else was going on.
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Is this the same thing as the regen? Got it for the first time yesterday at 775 miles. Just curious. On a related note, I've tried to run around town some with 5th and 6th locked out (speeds of around 55-60 on a regular basis, running about 2300-2500 rpms) to try to run this process...am I doing it wrong?
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New truck does it's first regen at 100 miles!
I Experienced my first REGEN last night. We were on the highway for about 20 minutes at 55 MPH when the dash lit up "Cleaning Exhaust Filter".. The odometer was at 100 miles and it lasted until 115 miles. The fuel economy dropped from 14.6 to 13.9 pretty fast.
There was no notification when it was done with the Regen other than the instant fuel economy gauge climbing pretty quickly.. So 100 miles on it and it was already sooted up??? Is that uncommon?
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Went to dealership today for oil change, they said they didn't see any leaks, didn't see anything wrong, etc. The warning lights haven't went back on since yesterday morning. I'll keep watching, I hope they don't activate again.
By the way, for everyone who had a 2003 Prius, how many miles did you get with your main battery? The dealership said they usually go after 100,000 miles and need to replace.
At 130,000 they also recommend an engine cabin filter and fuel injection cleaning. Seems like an automotive store would be cheaper for the cabin filter?
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I've been having frequent, low speed, short trips lately and have been seeing the 'Cleaning Exhaust Filter' message pop up. Given that I have only been mere minutes from my destination in each case, I thought 'good luck with that'.
Today I see the 'Drive to Clean' message, followed by the 'Cleaning Exhaust Filter' message which stayed on (I have been used to it appearing for only a second or two.)
It should all be fine tomorrow though as I have a longer trip planned.
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New to Diesel trucks, have a 2012 F250 with 4000 miles on it. for the first 3000 miles I would see regular messages about "Cleaning Exhaust Filter" about every 100 miles or so, but this last 1000 miles I have not seen any?? I drive about 100 + miles a day, 55 to 65 mph so I'm sure I'm running it long enough.
The other thing I've noticed is that my MPG has gone from 17 down to 14 which is what I would normally see during a cleaning cycle. It almost seems like I'm in a constant state of cleaning as my MPG has taken a dive... Any things I should check?
Side note, I towed a 30ft RV around the 3000 mile mark, since the tow I haven't seen the message.
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I'm a new Powestroke Diesel owner. I recently (Dec. 2012) picked up a 2008 F-350 Crew Cab, DRW, 4x2 with a 6.4l automatic. Love the truck. Lots of power. Runs great. My question is; while driving, every couple of days the "cleaning exhaust filter" message comes up on the display for about 10 secs. I understand what that message means and what the truck is doing. What I don't understand is, why does the truck seem to run like crap after? It seems to be down a little on power and the idle surges until I shut it off and restart and then everything is fine.
It doesn't matter how long it runs after the DPF cleaning message displays. Also, three times now since I purchased it it has shown a different message, "drive to clean exhaust filter" followed by "cleaning exhaust filter". This message will stay on for many minutes. What is the difference between messages? Is the truck doing anything different? Is it ok to shut the truck off while either of those messages are displayed? The first time it happened I drove around for 15 minutes or so afraid to shut it off! Unfortunately the truck is obviously used and the owners manual was missing.
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