Acura - Tsx :: 2007 - Rear Lug Nut Sticking Out Further Than Other Ones
Jul 3, 2015
So, I have a 2007 Acura TSX with stock rims/lug nuts. Anyway, I just recently had to have one tire replaced due to a side wall puncture. Now, on that wheel, I am noticing that one lug nut is sticking out further than the other ones. It feels tight when I try to turn it, and I am unable to loosen it by hand. I don't have a torque wrench, so I am not sure what it is torqued to, but I am kind of concerned about this.
Could they have screwed up the lug nut post? Obviously, I will take it back to the place I had the tire/rim put on at, but they most likely won't be open till after the holiday.
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So I just did my rear brake pads and rotors a few days ago. For the last few months, my e brake hadn't been working well (have to pull it way up, and still weak).
While doing the brakes, I noticed the park brake arm was more or less seized on the left rear. I worked it a bit, and then my park brake worked perfect - 4 or 5 clicks, right on.
Then I noticed it isn't disengaging (brake smoke). I figured the ratcheting mechanism in the piston must be kaput.
So today I got a new (reman) caliper & bracket, installed it, and... still sticking. Cables are fine, the arm is moving fine. I'm now certain that the problem must be hydraulic, but what?
I would think that a master cylinder or booster would cause all the brakes to drag, or at least one axle worth, but that isn't the case. After a short spin on the freeway with little brake use, 3 of the brakes show 40 - 45C or so, and the sticking one shows 150C. (with an infrared thermometer).
During the brake job I noticed the left side was harder to turn in than the right, so I guess that could have been hydraulic back pressure somehow. Didn't seem to notice any damage to the hoses, they look pretty mint. master cylinder still?
I did the rear bearings at the same time. The bearing on the left was bone dry, probably from overheating in the past - I'm sure this POS stuck at some other time too, overheated and lost its grease. right side was fine but I figured might as well do them both.
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1990 Ford Taurus. 82k. Auto TX. I had rear brake drums, shoes and cylinders replaced on the rear. Front brakes check out OK with miles to go. At town speeds 25 mph, I noticed car was braking itself (grip-release -grip-release, etc). Then it went away and has not happened again in about 30 miles of driving in town only. The cylinders are new, so being stuck is probably out. I put on emergency brake and released repeatedly while sitting still just to seeif that thing was rusted up and not moving. Don't know enough about over over-adjusting adjusters? Anyway. I would like to drive this thing on a 100 mile trip. Since it now seems OK, am I good to go? If yes, what to watch for or check on trip? If it makes any difference, the rear brakes were replaced because one cylinder had ruptured and soaked the drum and the shoe. It was all bed properly at the end.
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My '07 CE's windows are sticking badly in the up position. When I hit the button to lower them, especially the front windows, they make a loud POP. The passenger one even stalled out because it was stuck so bad, so I carefully pushed out on it and then lowered it to free it.
I do not roll my windows down often (maybe once every 2 weeks in the fall/winter/spring), but I've never had this problem on any other cars.
I have cleaned the windows (they had a black line on them from where they were stuck), and I put a very light coating of white lithium grease on the black rubber where it was sticking. I think this is working good.
The sticking point is at the top, and it sticks on the inside of the window where it makes contact with the rubber.
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I have a '99 Volvo XC V70 with turbo. The right rear and right front calipers are sticking.
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I was fueling up my 06 F-250 yesterday and smelled hot brakes. I checked and found the right rear was really hot. After it cooled down I was able to drive on home and it was not too hot when I got here. I was towing a trailer with my tractor on it so I had a pretty good load. It was over 6 miles to my house with stop and go traffic and no hang up. What should I do to keep this from happening again? I don't drive this truck much but when I need it, I need it to be dependable. It has 99k on the clock and is a gas job.
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I believe my torque converter has issues in my 07 MDX(92k) as I get vibration around 25 and 40MPH if driven easy. Torque converter guess is based on google research however, I do not get a jumpy tach that some folks report. The one dealership I did visit said did not exhibit condition. Vibration intermittently presents itself if you drive vehicle easy but shifts wonderfully if driven moderately to really hard.
Transmission fluid was last changed at 70k at the dealer where all service performed at proper intervals. Are my questions ignoring an issue like this lead to bigger problems? What to do. Would changing transmission fluid which is pink and smells fine do any good? My plan of ownership is 4-5years/60k miles.
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My car is not my daily and I only hear the sound after it's been sitting for a day or so, at low speeds right when I pull out of my driveway, I hear what sounds like the rear tires dragging over gravel and "sticking," the sound is more pronounced the sharper I turn. As I go a mile or so down the road and make turns, the sound goes away. I don't notice any vibrations or clinking sounds.
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I gave my Prius to my mom a year ago. She was complaining that the rear door lock behind her can sometimes stick, resulting in it locking or not locking. Also any tips and DIY on how to remove the rear door panel?
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Having problems with the rear doors sticking? I.e. they are hard to open and close? Seems like the hinge is no good but I am not sure.
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I own a 2003 MDX w/205k miles. The tranny was rebuilt at 150k. The weirdest thing started happening this week. sometimes when i am coming to a stop, the car feels like I am being rear ended and it stalls out. No check engine lights come on. it will start right back up (may take a couple of attempts to get to drive again). A mechanic who specializes in Honad/Acura thinks its the tranny. A tranny guy did a diagnostic and didn't get any codes. (the mechanic could duplicate the problem, the tranny guy couldn't). I would really like to keep the car going, but at this point sinking another 3k for a tranny is not an option.
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At about 25,000 miles I had one of my rear brake pads sticking so had to change the rear brakes. The non-stuck pads on the other side looked decent still, so I'm assuming I'd have gotten quite a few more miles out of them if the one hadn't been sticking. Changed the front pads at about the same time, although they were in pretty good shape still (but it was taken apart already, so did them while it was apart and the chance was there). At about 50,000 miles later the rear pads are again unevenly (and I feel perhaps prematurely?) worn, and the fronts look fine. Is it something with the screw-type e-brake mechanism on the rear disc brake that lends itself to sticking? Or am I just especially unfortunate?
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I noticed today (smell burning brakes) that my left rear brake is sticking on my 1999 2WD F250. I hear that this is a common problem? Is it usually a defective Caliper or emergency brake Issue? I had my rear brakes done 50k ago with rotors and rebuilt calipers (first set went 130k).... I don't think it was a total clamp down infrared temperature was 275 degrees on sticking brake and 75 degrees on the ones that were not sticking.
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I have A 97 F-150 4X4 with rear drums. I noticed the brakes felt like they weren't releasing right away after i let of the brake pedal. i took drums off and noticed on the left rear the front shoe moved normal but the rear shoe didn't move at all. on the right side front shoe moves normal rear shoe very very slow, and i could see rear shoe was worn way more than front. So I replaced on both rear the shoes, all the hardware, springs, wheel cylinders and brake line from cylinders to the proportioning valve.bleed the brakes, and adjusted the drag on the drums. Now i drive it, test it out, feels like the same issue is going on. feels like im driving with the brake on, and right rear gets really hot. Did i miss something? not do something right?
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2003 F250 V10 4x4. I have a rear brake sticking so I assume I have to replace the calipers. Which brand should I go with?
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Ok so I think I have sticking calipers on the rear passenger side of my truck, not 100% sure but ill be getting under the truck tomorrow to check. My question is how hard is it to fix this and how long do you think it will take? I have all the right stuff to get the truck jacked up and I have enough money to do this, time is just the issue. It gets dark around 4:30-5:00pm here and I get home from school at 3pm, and have work also but not until saturday this week.
I'd prefer to do this after school if possible because I've stopped driving it so that way I don't wear down my brake rotors and pads for no good reason. I have to drive the work truck that has many of its own issues but its driveable, headlights are very dim due to oxidization and is dangerous to drive in the snow due to the tires (no money to replace right now). How hard and how long this would be? What else it could be shoot! The problem is, it slows down if i let off the gas as if i was breaking, high heat from rear passenger side brakes/burning rubber smell.
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I own a 2007 Acura TL (3.2) with 130K miles. Last October I hit a pot hole which blew my front driver side tire and bent my rear driver side wheel and upper control arm. After replacing both tires, wheel, control arm and having the car realigned twice by two different Acura mechanics over the past 6months, my car still pulls left at highway speeds. I've noticed that the tires have gotten louder while driving and that both passenger side tires have worn significantly but only on the outer most edge (left side facing car). Before I buy any more tires and spend more $ on alignments, why is the car pulling left? What else could wrong with my suspension?
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Took the truck out the other night, got to town felt the slight drag but nothing alarming, got out of the truck and could smell it, rear drivers side rotor glowing red, pass side not glowing, pressed park brake then released, driver side freed on its own, pass side sticking, replaced pass side rotor and pads, found nothing out of the ordinary... Ford F250 4x4, 2005 ....
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Two weeks ago did a road trip to NH from RI and i heard a slight dragging only at low speed (10-15mph) in my left rear tire. figured the caliber was dragging a little, it was. Before arriving in NH the brake light came on. Long story short i get back to RI and the left side noise gets worse and starts to lock up. I finally replace the rotor which was warped, pads, and caliper which was bad.
Was driving it same day and still here the same dragging and screeching noise and the brake light is still on. On my way home the left side locked up at low speed without hitting breaks and slid the truck, mid you all parts are new on that side. I am not sure what it could be at this point something in side the axle?
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Problem #1: So I've noticed a clunking when I go over sharp bumps or uneven road conditions (think roots under the pavement) at low speeds, such as in a parking lot. The noise is only under the front left tire well area, and the car drives smooth and great otherwise. Is it a bad joint? The closest dealership is over an hour away, so I want to make sure I'm driving there with a real reason. The MDX has about 130K, transmission is great, and new timing belt, so I'm scared it's some sort of axle/joint problem...
Problem #2: The check emissions light came on about two days ago. I have filled up since, but it hasn't gone away. There is not a smell from the exhaust, and there is no rattling. Gas mileage hasn't changed one bit either! What could it be?? The car has been restarted quite a few times, but the light comes on each time.
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A few weeks back my rear drivers side wheel started smoking severely...when I stopped you could smell the brake material, feel the heat coming from the wheel, and lots of smoke. I speculated it was the parking brake that got hung up. I jiggled that cable around and then went around the block - no issue. Note: I did not leave the parking brake on.
It happened again a week later, but not as bad. I took it into the dealer today. They said heat was evident as it burned off a sticker on the disk or caliper hsg area. They have not determined yet if it is parking brake or caliper?
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