Acura - Tsx :: 2004 - Vibration Post Engine Mount Replacement
Mar 7, 2014
I recently had my rear engine mount replaced on my 2004 Acura TSX. It was originally identified by the original dealer as requiring replacement and when I took it to anther Mechanic he also verified this and during the replacement he showed me the original engine mount which had a definitive crack.
After installation the Mechanic indicated that the car would feel a little stiff for a while and would smooth out over time. What I found after the first couple of days is that the engine seems to have a significant vibration when I am in idle or after I brake. When the car is in motion there is still a vibration but it is not very noticeable. I just remember from prior feel of the vehicle. This vibration did not exist prior to replacing the rear engine mount.
Is this expected to be normal until I put miles on it. The Acura is a 2004 but only has 75,000 miles. I don't drive it very much but I am concerned that the vibration I feel when I brake may be creating additional damage.
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So I replaced the engine and trans engine mounts on my 2004 R32 today. After I got done and drove it there was some serious vibration and gear whine. It also seemed like I wasn't able to transfer all the power to the wheels, it was definitely slower to accelerate. Did something go out of alignment?
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So I replaced the engine and trans engine mounts on my 2004 R32 today. After I got done and drove it there was some serious vibration and gear whine. It also seemed like I wasn't able to transfer all the power to the wheels, it was definitely slower to accelerate. Did something go out of alignment?
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I just had the timing belt (water pump and thermostat) replaced in my 2004 V8. I drove it home from the dealer (75 miles or so) without incident. Drove it to and from work (4 miles) without incident for a few days.
Last night I drove ~5 miles, idled in a parking lot for ~10 min and then drove another 5 miles and it overheated. Once I shut off the car it would not come back on. I waited for it to drop below 200C and it still didn't start. Electric consumers would come on all was well....but no start.
Car was towed to the local VW dealer who do not have a phaeton tech. After the hour and half it took for the tow truck to arrive and half an hour to tow it....it started up.
I am now thinking about my next move. As I read through everyone's overheating experiences they are mostly
1. Failed thermostat (which one? does the bottom thermostat control water pump operation?)
2. Fan issues
3. Air in the coolant line following a flush (could be, but I drove it home in the cold on the first day with the heater on)
4. False readings due to a bum (upper?) thermostat.
I have a VCDS but have not been able to get out to the car to give it a shot.
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The car is a 2000 Pontiac Grand Am, 3.4 L V6, 223K miles.
I had a major coolant leak and my normal repair shop couldn't handle it due to lack of equipment. So to a local dealership I went. The following is the assessment and work performed. "Cylinder head gasket leaking coolant. 12.80 Pressure tested coolant system and found the rear bank cylinder head gasket leaking coolant down the front of the engine. Replaced both head gaskets as well as intake, front engine cover gasket, valve cover gaskets and upper plenum gasket required for repair. Topped with coolant and performed LOF. Cleaned engine compartment area and road tested. Verified condition corrected".
When driving the car off the lot after the repair, I nearly stopped and went back in to complain. The gas pedal was vibrating on acceleration and its never done that before. I figured I'd drive it around for a while and see if it shook out and it didn't. I did drive back to the dealer the same day and rode with the mechanic who agreed that the vibration is there but didn't realize it was new. He went step by step through the repair with me. All work was done from the top of the engine down so the transmission and CV joints were never touched. The only idea the mechanic had was there is a small crack in the shielding on the throttle cable along with rust. I'm tempted to replace this anyways from a safety standpoint but could this cracked housing/rusted cable be causing the vibration? During the course of the repair, this is the only part that was touched that is related to the throttle. The throttle itself is fine.
The vibration only occurs when accelerating from a complete stop. It evens out once a speed over 40 mph is reached. It does not seem to be dependent on the AC compressor running.
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I've got a 91 prizm where on a recent roadtrip the transmission went out on the freeway. While driving 75mph, i heard a quick ping sound, then a quick wheel skip followed by the sound of my transmission turning itself into gravel. We had just enough time to get off to the side, but i knew it was done.
I live in San Francisco and don't feel like getting a new car only to get it covered in dings from all the bad drivers around here. So naturally i replaced the transmission in my 22 year old car. yikes. It needs to be stated at this point that the car has run flawlessly it's entire lifetime and I'm the original owner - had no reason to expect otherwise after replacing the transmission.
The shop that changed it was a large shop, AAA recommended and Owner-operated. They told me the transmission was from a car from Japan where transmission replacement is standard. (I did not know this).
Now however, the car has a misfire. No perceivable misfire for the first two minutes she's running, but then constantly misfiring every couple seconds. At stop lights, you can feel the car almost want to stop, but then step on the gas and runs ok, but can still feel the misfire until she gets up to speed. The car runs just a smudge rougher so we believe it's still misfires while at speed, just not noticeable.
Timing belt only has 10,000 miles.
Timing is dead on.
Wires are good, just changed the distributor, coil and plugs. As i understand it, the throttle position sensor is integral to the distributor, so that's new as well.
Fuel pressure is right on.
No warning lights on dash.
At this point, I can't keep throwing money at her. The transmission was 5-6 months of a car payment for a new car. Would there be a reason that the car would have a misfire after getting the transmission replaced?
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About a year ago i notice this vibration and took it to my local lexus shop they stated that my engine mount is bad. bought the mount from lexus and change and vibration is still there...,my question is am i the only one that is having this engine vibration problem or this a common problem for the 06-11 awd.?
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My transmission started to slip badly and I stopped it immediately and found transmission fluid in the radiator and nothing in the transmission. We replaced the radiator and flushed and refilled everything. It runs great now except it is vibrating every now and then. I'm wondering if the vibration is from running the transmission dry.
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Yesterday I had to replace two right side engine mounts on my 2WD 2004 Honda Element w/ 63K (most short drives in a hilly city). The mechanic saved the old parts for me and sure enough they were really torn up. The lower left side control arm also needed to be replaced and they think the Lower right control arm will need replacing in about 3-4K.
This seems to be a fairly short life for such vital items. I've owned front wheel drive cars before and hadn't had this happen. What gives ( besides the rubber)?
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Looking for some detailed instructions on how to change the engine mount on the driver's side on 2004 r32. My mechanic will work on it but he mentioned that he might have to drop the transmission but I thought that this is not necessary.
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I'm trying to pin point the cause of this vibration on a recently replaced engine. 2007 camry 2azfe 2.4L manual
The engine runs fine at idle and drives as it should. However.. there is now a noticeable vibration and sound coming from the replacement engine that wasn't there before on the original engine
The sound seems to be coming from the intake side of the cylinder head. the sound and vibration/rumble seem to increase as rpms increase. All the engine mounts are good. it's not a rattling sound.. double checked to make sure nothing was loose.
When I received the replacement engine I didn't check the internals. the engine supposedly has around 40k miles. came in as a complete longblock. I did note that the cylinder did have some blue colored dye inside the intake and exhaust ports. I dont know what this engine went through before i got it.
It almost sounds like a loud aftermarket intake when you step on the gas. Its extremely annoying driving down the road.. because of this constant vibration/hum/rumble.
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2004 Acura MDX, check engine light came on. Got code checked: P0741, supposed to be switch or torque converter. My mechanic won't do transmission work, so took to dealer. They drained fluid, no metal shavings. Now they want to replace transmission, said it has internal damage. It wasn't running badly, a little slippage here and there. Don't think it really needs replaced.
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I have to replace the torque strut mount in my 2008 Avalon XLS V6. I can't find the torque specs for the two bolts in my Haynes manual or at any online sites. Also, should I use either threadlocker or anti-seize on them?
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Just had engine replaced by dealership due to oil plug coming out on highway and subsequent engine damage (their fault).As soon I picked it up, felt left to right vibration going from front to back during acceleration.Took it back to dealership. They balanced/rotated tires and checked alignment (they said within specs). Still feeling vibration and so did technician who rode with me.The service advisor pulls me over and said that per the "Honda Master Mechanic" they spoke to via phone, vibration is being caused by engine timing not being correct because, being it it had to be reset, the computer needs 500 miles to set it correctly. Does this sound like bull to you to? I'm thinking damaged strut when they dropped front end to install engine or motor mount.
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2007 Santa Fe GLS 2.7 V6. T belt replaced by dealer at 62K. Noticed engine vibration when picked up vehicle. RPM is steady, engine runs smooth, no error codes, no strange noises. Mechanic who did the work confirmed vibration problem and recommended bringing it back - had no answer on the cause but mentioned lose motor mounts which I doubt - the car ran perfect until the dealer did the work.
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2001 Ford Explorer Sport (not sport trac) 4.0l 5r55e 2wd.. Ok so I picked up a sweet deal of an explorer yesterday.
Sure enough I get her home and find out she needs both the rear body mount bushings replaced. Ok no sweat so I go to autozone...they cant find them... Ok I look in the book for replacement procedure... Nothing, To YouTube! ...nope nothing there either.
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License plate light comes on when any door opens? it fades out a little after it's shut. stays on for a minute or so. (like interior lights would if i had the door dome switch on).
Any way to turn this license plate light off for this function? stays on if the hatch is open, or any door. I car camp a lot and crack the hatch for air. license plate light stays on.
Also the lower door lights, when they are individually open. I'd like them to not come on. Yes I could just remove those bulbs.
I had installed led lights on the whole car/ every bulb inside and out. even fog lights. i didn't replace the hid headlights, though I'd like to.
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A week ago my wife's car had a loud vibration in what i assumed was the tires or wheels whenever the car went over 40 mph, and got louder the faster i went. I noticed the front left tire looked a little low, and I was taking it in for an oil change anyway that day so i had them fill up the tire too. When I left it still had the same vibration all the way home. The car just sat in our garage for most of the last week with my wife driving it just around locally and I took it this morning with the plan to drop it off somewhere on my lunchbreak to get it checked out, but the vibration seems to be gone. I got it up to 90 mph and noticed nothing.
The car is an 2003 acura tl 3.2L with about 125,000 miles on it.
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My wife has an Acura, and when braking at higher speeds, she is getting a really bad "vibration". I am assuming the rotors are warped. We had both axles (rotors/pads) done last year (about 40k ago) at Midas. After they did them, we had to take the car back about 3 times for squeaky pads, and I swear a slight vibration, but they didn't fix them. Anyway, even though they offer "lifetime pads," I refuse to go back there.
So, her pads now started squeaking again. We were dealing with the warped rotors until we had some extra money and time to take it in. At this point, I am wondering where I should take it. I have no clue if the pads are good, and I'm guessing the rotors just need to be turned since they were just put on last brake job.
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I have a 1993 Toyota Celica GT I removed the strut tower to replace the upper tower mount and replaced the wheel bearing. my problem is that when i torque the axle nut tight the tire can be moved by pushing it up or down.
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I recently had the timing belt replaced on my 1999 Acura Integra (which incidentally is a great car). Seems like my gas mileage has been down by a couple of miles per gallon ever since.
Is it possible that some normal aspect of replacing it would reduce gas mileage? This was a new shop to me--is it possible they did something to the engine that would reduce the gas mileage?
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