The car starts easily when the motor is cold. If I park the car for 30 minutes and then restart the motor, the following happens:
1. Motor turns over
2. Motor stutters and stops
3. I press down on gas pedal and turn ignition on-it starts with a little stutter
Lately my car has been stalling out after trying to start it again after it has been recently turned off. Could this be the fuel injectors or the oxygen sensor. I must admit, the car manufacturer suggest using high test gas but I have been using the medium grade.. This condition is not consistent. It has bad periods and then it will be fine for a long period. The car has 108,000 miles. The oxygen sensor was already replaced around 70,000 miles. No other major engine work has been done to it.
View 4 RepliesMy 1998 Acura RL just shut off while entering the garage. The engine shut off, and the battery and engine lights remained on. An attempt to restart the car without taking the key out of the ignition did not work (no sound). Taking the key out of the ignition and restarting it worked like normal.
Occasionally the car makes a loud sound right after starting, which resembled a cross between a honk and a grinding sound. I'm not sure if this is related.
I would rather the car not stop mid-drive on a busy street or the highway.
96 teg 1.8 non vtech after a while it will lose spark some times it runs for a few days then loses spark but will start up with in 10 min sometimes it just just stalls out and loses spark but restarts with in 10 minutes.
View 1 RepliesMy Acura has been having some problems with what I"m guessing is a computer glitch. It's been to the mechanic four times in the past two weeks and while my dealer has been great about cooperating and trying to fix the problem, I think they just don't know what the problem is. The problems started when one day I was driving the car and all of a sudden all the error message lights came on and the car could no longer accelerate. Drove it slowly back home but when i took it to the mechanic the next day, it was working fine so he couldn't do anything about it.
Took it home and within ten minutes the problem started again. This time i took it to an Acura dealer and they kept the car for two days until it started acting up again (engine warning lights and what not) and they did an engine valve replacement of the traction control or some such thing. Two days later I was driving and the car just shut off and wouldn't turn back on. I was moving and not stopped or anything at the time. Took the car back again and they decided to change the whole computer system. Now two days later again, the check emission and check transmission warnings came on again.
The car is still working for the time being but its only a matter of time before it conks out on me. Also, even while running, the lights that indicitate what gear it is in continuously flash (so the D is flashing instead of solid) and occasionally the D and D3 lights are flashing simultaneously even though I am obviously in drive.
I recently found out my motor mounts are bad. Almost a year ago I noticed I was leaking coolant so I just filled it with water every time it was empty. Now I have been getting an overheating problem if it's not filled to the right amount. Just yesterday the problem got worse as there is green gunk at the opening of the radiator and it's always hot. The reservoir is filling up with hot water a lot of the time. My radiator will be empty when that happens. As I was driving the gauge was reading hot. Turning on the heater didn't work much. I tested it tonight, with the radiator full and 2 cups water in reservoir. Drove it a few blocks and turned off car. Radiator had lots of pressure and hot. The reservoir was same level.
View 6 Replies1999 Honda Accord LX 4 cylinder 126k milesWhen my car runs, it works very well. Sometimes, though, it stalls - just shuts off. When I try to restart it, it turns over, but immediately stops, almost as if it gets no gas. I keep trying, and eventually it starts, but it can take more than 30 tries. It has happened when the car is cold and when it is fully warmed up. It has happened while traveling at 10 MPH and while going 75 on the Mass Pike. It's happened in warm weather and cold, while the sun shone and during rain storms. The car might run perfectly for 3 days, but then stall 4 times on my way home from work. This has been going on for more than a year, but has become much more frequent in the last couple of months.
View 3 Repliesjust replaced the timing belt and water pump on my '97 Acura TL. (80k mi), It now vibrates in gear at idle,but runs like a champ above 1000 RPMs. Didn't do it when I took it in. Our trusted mechanic says it's the motor mounts. I say "how do motor mounts go bad overnight?" There are small drips on my driveway under the car.
View 19 RepliesI have got the most aggravating electrical gremlin possible. For over a year now, the truck intermittently just dies. Mostly it happens about 2-3 mins after start (every couple weeks or so), then takes a couple of key offs, then back ons to restart. But it does restart and then runs fine for a time.... 2 weeks ago I was rollin' down the road and hit a pothole, and whammo, she died, and wouldn't restart. I thought, "great it was the intertia cut-off going bad." I had it towed to the shop where they did some diagnosis and told me it threw a PO231 code.
The tech then said he was doing the diagnostic manual directed test, and swapped out the fuel pump relay, and it started right up. New relay, out the door. A few days later on the way to work about 2 - 3 minutes after start, she dies again. I hang my head, say a curse word, and key it a couple times, and it starts back up and runs fine. Presently speaking she's back at the shop, but the owner, who's a straight up dude was loath to take her back, because it was running fine at the time.... I've got to figure this thing out before I drive it off a cliff.
Truck -- 2001 7700 XLT 5.4L 88K miles
Symptoms -- Random interval engine stops with short delay to restart, 1 hard bump engine stop with no restart. PO231 code (after the hard bump no restart). Didn't check it previously (wasn't aware there were "soft" codes).
Troubleshooting to date -- 1 new fuel pump, 1 new fuel pump relay.
Only things left are the inertia cut-off switch (which apparently don't go bad that often), and the wiring itself/connections to the different components....
I have a 1990 buick lesabre motor is a 3800 and it runs fine until the motor warms up and then when i shut it off it won't restart for about an hour after i shut it off. It's not over heating it has a new fuel pump.
View 4 RepliesMy MILaw Truck 1992 ranger isnt running good and I need to get it going
Only a P0111 at this time IIRC
We started the truck tonight and idel ok Could see the motor Stumble every so often. She went to drive it and it Cuts out under Load Or you must rev it up to keep it from Stalling.
And if it does Cut out you have to let it sit for 5 minutes to restart what is Weird is it dont Smell Flooded either I smelled the VAC Line to the FPR and it was DRY and Did NOT Smell like Fuel.
It was dark didnt do much trouble shoot as the Flashlight died. I wonder about Fuel Filters. And Also about the Idel Control. The Mis or Stumble seams Random
Any testing I can do I have a DVM and that Code Reader. Might have to find something to check fuel press with where would I check it at the fuel rail I assume. Going to try and go over the Basics tomorrow If there is Anything Specific I should check?
I have one Hyundai Accent 1.4 from 2006 gasoline with 61.000 km. I have a strange problem. Sometimes the engine car stop while driving. This problem appear when i change from 5 to 4 or from 4 to 3 with ac on. Without ac the problem not appear. If i try to start engine again he start without problem. No error storage in ECU. I replace gasoline pump but the problem appear again.
View 2 Replies2006 Subaru Impreza 2.5i ... My vehicle struggles to start. Symptoms present at what seems random and the rest of the time it starts up no problem. I turn the key and the motor turns over a few times without starting then stops turning over yet still sounds as if the ignition and starter are still functioning, just with out success. No grinding or clicking, but the very audible sound of the car trying to start remains, but with out the cyclical turning of the motor. If I continue to keep the key turned for several seconds it sometimes will turn over again and start sluggishly but not always. I replaced the battery and it had no effect.
View 4 RepliesWell this happened way too many time already. I would turn on my car and sometimes it starts right up, other times it attempt to start then stutters (if that makes sense, imagine as if the battery were disconnected during start up) then resumes with an ESP Error on the dash. I would say this happened to me more than 10 times.
And also, why I get a "Brake Error" as well, that would be great. It hasn't popped up in a while but it showed up and vanished within seconds.
I have a 2004 Volvo S40. For the past few summers, when it gets hot out, especially if the car is sitting in direct sun, when I get back into the car to start it up it stutters and often won't move when I press the gas pedal. I have taken it to several mechanics and they never fix it. When it's really hot, sometimes it will stutter when I am stopped at a light and threaten to shut off. So, what is going on?!?
View 2 Replies23,800 miles. Cruising up Hwy. When EPC and Check Engine light both come on for about 1 second, car stutters, then it's back to normal. Never happened before.
Check for codes with VAG-COM and nothing registered. I did notice a strange like-a-clock-ticking sound coming from the center console area as I had the key in the ignition while checking my ECU with VAG-COM. Didn't sound horrible, but it was a sound that I don't recall ever hearing before.
Could this be the start of something that is about to get worse?
My Passat stutters on start-up and the engine light comes on.... took it to a vw dealer they ran tests and said nothing was wrong with the car, yesterday the engine light was off all day it was fine then some days like today it comes back on.... its a 2001 b5.5 1.8 T with 59,500 miles, manual tranny? I mean i get the oil changed every 3k miles, using synthetic oil, air/fuel/oil filters i always change every 3k miles with the oil change, i also got a tune-up at 45k miles and get the tranny flushed and new tranny oil every 15k miles, I dunno whats up with my passat...
View 12 RepliesMy car recently got a code for the camshaft sensor after my car died in the middle of street and the engine light turned on. I had gotten it replaced. In fact, I had both (left and right) camshaft sensors replaced and we changed out the crankshaft sensor as well. Then, a new problem comes up.
My car does not accelerate as strongly as it used to. In first gear (car is automatic), my car seems to struggle to get in 2nd gear. Imagine the feeling of your car when you keep it in 1st gear (in a stick-shift) and you KNOW that's the point of having to shift into 2nd, but you keep driving anyway. Then, once it does shift gears, my car jolts forward with a big drop in RPM. Imagine the feeling of finally shifting your manual transmission into 2nd gear and feeling that "relief" in the engine as it doesn't seem to struggle anymore. What's worse is that at higher speeds/gear my Pathfinder won't go beyond 4000 RPM. I'm driving at around 65 mph and the car is at 2500 RPM. When it hits 4000 RPM, the RPM just ticks before it and my car stutters back and forth as if I'm playing a beat with my car by hitting the breaks.
An example scenario, I'm driving on the highway and there's a slower car in front of me. I just want to pass the person and be on my way but as I press on the gas, my RPMs don't really increase as it normally would when applying more gas to go faster. Once I do finally get to 4000 RPM, my car starts to stutter or rock back and forth as if hitting an invisible wall. Are there tons of reasons that this could happen?
On the other hand, I tested my car, in park, to see if my engine would rev pass 4000 RPM, and it does. So, the problem presents itself only when I'm driving.
Just bought a 2010 Prius... Anyways... I have noticed that at steady speed (mainly higher speed) I feel a very slight power stutter (though that may not be the best word here). Not enough to change the speedometer reading, but I can feel it a little... of course I'm very sensitive to these sorts of things since it's a used car and I have only a 30 day window to identify any problems. It feels like maybe it's working out the gas:elec ratio it wants to use, which would seem normal. It's all drive-by-wire right?
View 13 RepliesI have a 1999 Town and Country van, 3.8L engine. It has 220K miles on it. Lately, when I am accelerating, it seems to do fine until I get to 40-55 mph. In that range, it stutters a bit. After that it runs fine, even at higher speeds. I usually don't get this stuttering at the lower speeds as I am, for example, accelerating to get on a highway. A mechanic friend of mine says that it may be a vac leak. Does this sound right, or are there other possibilities.
View 3 RepliesMY 07 passat 2.0t stutters til it warms up. Took it in to vw and they replace the plugs and coils but it still does it. Engine light stays on says 2 cylinder misfires. Its stops after 5 mins but when it sits for awhile it starts again. it has 110,000 miles thought maybe it could be carbon buildup?
View 6 Replies