Recently I noticed my car vibrates to left and right when I hit the pedal and the speed is around 40mph and above. The car runs smooth if I maintain the speed.The car has 176K and running quite good and I am about to have the timing belt service.I am just curious what could cause this: timing belt? fuel filter? The car is 2001 acura TL so it has front wheel drive.
View 15 RepliesI believe my torque converter has issues in my 07 MDX(92k) as I get vibration around 25 and 40MPH if driven easy. Torque converter guess is based on google research however, I do not get a jumpy tach that some folks report. The one dealership I did visit said did not exhibit condition. Vibration intermittently presents itself if you drive vehicle easy but shifts wonderfully if driven moderately to really hard.
Transmission fluid was last changed at 70k at the dealer where all service performed at proper intervals. Are my questions ignoring an issue like this lead to bigger problems? What to do. Would changing transmission fluid which is pink and smells fine do any good? My plan of ownership is 4-5years/60k miles.
I purchased a ES300h in March 2013. Starting end of September I noticed a rattle (pebbles in a tin can tumbling sound) when I went up a slight grade, accelerating from a stop, or accelerating after a brief coasting on the freeway. The first time at the dealer they said stop using Costco gas and use Top Tier. I used Shell and Chevron and there was a 80% improvement but the nuisance still continued, some days more and some days less, meaning when it rained it poured.
On the third visit to the dealer, with two specialists on a ride along of course it does not make that noise, but left it there for them to find the continued problem and they conceded it is engine knock to which there is nothing out of specs with the engine AND say that this is normal. I have never had a car do this, maybe specific to hybrids? The service advisor goes on to tell me that they filled my tank with 91 octane to stop the knock, BUT, the manual says use 87!!!
Some say this can lead to engine damage, some say only blown gasket, the dealer says no problem! A friend of mine has the same car and has no issues.
The car developed a vibration at freeway speed (65-80+) and the dealer kept saying it was tire balance, alignment, etc. After replacing tires, having them road force balance the tires and do an alignment, car still had the vibration. Contacted Lexus and the service manager drove with me and immediately felt the vibration. they double checked the balance, alignment, etc. and decided it was shocks. Car has 70,000 miles. Lexus agreed to pay for 2 of the struts. Picked up the car and it is like new. Smooth as silk. the old shocks did not have signs of being worn out, leaking or being bad. I was a bit hesitant but the Service Manager said if it didn't fix the problem, they would put the old ones back on and I wouldn't pay for anything.
I have my car serviced only at the dealer and they have stood behind the car. Lexus also. I had the control arm problem and Lexus stepped up and paid for that repair.
just replaced the timing belt and water pump on my '97 Acura TL. (80k mi), It now vibrates in gear at idle,but runs like a champ above 1000 RPMs. Didn't do it when I took it in. Our trusted mechanic says it's the motor mounts. I say "how do motor mounts go bad overnight?" There are small drips on my driveway under the car.
View 19 RepliesI just bought a 2007 Prius a couple of days ago and noticed on my drive home the first day after purchase that the A/C got hot when I was accelerating onto the freeway and remained hot for a couple of minutes after that. I turned it off then turned it back on, and it blew cold air for a couple of minutes, then settled on a "cool-but-not-cold" middle ground. When I test drove the vehicle, I ran the A/C, but since it wasn't overly warm, I didn't notice that the car struggles to reach "cold" and mostly blows only "cool" air.
View 2 RepliesOn my way to work this morning I was accelerating onto the freeway when my CEL started flashing then eventually went off, and my EPC light was left on. Definitely idling rough, feels like a misfire. When I got to work turned the car off and back on, still rough and the cell flashed again then stayed solid, EPC light also on.
Based on what little research I've done so far it looks and sounds like a misfire. I have my scanner to double check, but it is at home. Can I baby it home 10-15 miles on the freeway? It seems to drive "ok" above about 2.5k, rougher below that. 2012 GTI APR stage 1 about 43k on the clock.
Runs great in all gears 90'000 miles Now has a high level whine when. Accelerating even when. Still and in neutral. With. A/c. On or off sounds like a jet spooling up. When pressing gas pedal it gets higher in pitch as. You run engine up the lowers when you take foot. Back and off. All gauges fine no other problems with car. But. Worry some sound.
View 2 RepliesI have just purchased a brand new LX570.
I can only explain that the vehicle vibrates. Whether driving, accelerating or decelerating there is a constant vibration just like driving on a poor road surface. We have superbly flat and new Roads in Dubai, and I drive them every day in my 2 other (far less expensive) 4WD's and I do not feel shaken, stirred or positively nauseous. The only time u feel at ease in my new Lexus is when I am stationary. Transmission also occasionally lags and I can feel the gear changes, sometimes a judder and a bit of a jump as it searches for the gear. Take off is sluggish (i know it's a big car!) but I feel it's not good enough for the car that it is supposed to be.
This is my first Lexus. I opted for the full top of the range with s few extra options and a big spend. This is certainly not the car I was expecting and it is definitely not the Lexus experience that I thought that I would get. What is the problem with vibration? The whole body shakes ( not the steering wheel) albeit mildly, it vibrates almost constantly. it is simply not a smooth drive.
The Lexus service centre has changed all the tyres at 100 km claiming flat spots due to transit and storage. The car now has 300 km on the clock. It's not the tyres or the alignment. They claim to have run full diagnostics but found nothing. I can't believe that his issue is on my car only. I have taken 2 other drivers out and they agree with my concerns, something is definitely wrong.
I have an '01 Blazer that's had a strange vibration for some time now. Here are the particulars:
It's a low frequency rumbling It happens only between 45 and 60 mph It tends to come and go It usually starts after about 5 minutes of driving first thing in the day It generally goes away after awhile and may not happen the rest of the day It happens only when I'm accelerating or maintaining speed on an incline It happens when it's hot, cold, wet or dry
What I've done lately: replaced all the brake pads replaced one rear rotor and caliper slide pins (one pin was frozen and the rotor was badly worn Checked the U-joints, which are sound
I just bought a 2006 f150 exteneded cab w/ 5.4 V-8 and it vibrates when accelerating from a stopped position but not all the time---happens more when the wheel is turned. It definitely feels like the vib is coming from the left front side. I just got it back from the shop and the mechanic told me the vibration was stemming from the rear and that he exhchanged the fluid and added anti-friction additiver but that he expects the problem to continue.
View 4 RepliesSo, lately I've noticed a slight fluttering sound in my '08 GS460 when accelerating on the freeway or up a slight incline. It'll kick in around 2,000-4,000 RPM, and it almost sounds like it's coming from right underneath the center console. I did have an exhaust system installed, then uninstalled, so maybe it's something the shop did, but can't be positive whether or not it was there before (always drive with my music on pretty loud).
View 4 RepliesWhy I am smelling coolant? I have a 2004 6.0 SD.It generally happens when accelerating up to freeway speeds or passing cars, Medium to hard acceleration and the smell is strong and will go away after a few min. The obvious thing is to check for a leak but I haven’t seen any.
View 14 RepliesShould the engine block of an 2005 Acura RL crack if the car's maintenance has been regular and complete according to all dealer specified recommendations? Cooling system never stopped working either. What else could cause the engine block to crack?
View 14 RepliesEvery few weeks my Acura TL 08 loses power while driving. I am able to brake, stop, then restart the engine. A dealer mechanic drove the thing for a week trying to replicate the problem. Another garage has done a bunch of usual diags. We replaced the ignition switch. Still happening, with no obvious pattern.
View 4 RepliesI have a 99 TL. The car generally runs well, but at times,the engine just cuts out. I can be traveling 55 mph and the engine will just stall. Usually it starts right up. I can also be running well, and when it idles it will stall. Otherwise, at times, it starts with no problem. Other times it will turn over, but not start until many tries. I have replaced most of the sensors. No check engine lights comes on, so there is no way to accurately diagnose the problem.
View 3 RepliesI have a 99 acura TL. The car generally runs well, but at times, and without warning the engine will stop. I can be driving at 70 and it will stop. Usually it starts back up again right away.
Sometimes it will be a little harder to restart, requiring up to ten times to restart. The it runs perfectly.I have replaced a number of sensors as well as the EGR valve. I just can't seem to figure this out.
As of right now check engine comes on. Prior to that other codes have come on. When it stalls, it just stops cold. There is no warning and no indication it is going to stall.
we recently bought a 2008 Camry LE (Automatic), and from the beginning, I've noticed something that is nothing more than an annoyance, but I am starting to not get that impression. The problem is that at a stop, in any drive gear, I have a vibration from the engine. The engine is warmed up and everything. Shift into neutral, it goes away immediately (like I can feel it dissipate as it disengages the gear). No vibrations while driving, only to a stop. Tach reads about 650-700ish and goes up to sometimes 8 in neutral. We also have an OBD-II reader, and no codes are being thrown, no lights on the dash indicating any warnings either.
Now I have just put 2000 miles on it yesterday from when we bought it, and it has a little over 40k on the odometer. My worry is that there is a possible issue with the torque converter or transmission. Any issues with the torque converter that might cause this? Or is there something else that might cause this? If there is an issue that can prove something is faulty, the dealer we bought it from has a warranty that covers almost everything besides oil and filters and whatnot, so hopefully there should be no problem. Like I said, though, it is an annoyance, and I do not want this to escalate to something worse.
I have a Golf GTI IV 1.8T Tiptronic and having this problem when the car is Idling i can feel the engine vibrations trough the seat and are anything but soft, especially if the trany is neutral and less if leave it in D.
I've changed the dog bone recently, wich was very bad, but the vibrations didn't smooth they remain the same but the driving improved, so the dog did replacement was good.
The next step would change the engine mounts, but they look goof and I don't want to start change parts just in case. Where I live car parts aren't cheap and some times new ones are just crap.
Background: During the last couple of weeks, this happened at least twice: I had to turn the engine for a good 3-4 seconds before it started, and after it did, the EPC light came on. The car drove normally (short lunch drive) and later started with no problem and no EPC light.
This morning, during some stop and go driving, it felt like the engine cutoff for a split second and the EPC light came on. The car then drove fine but the light obviously stayed on. Then on the freeway at 70mph, the engine cutoff, the RPM needle dropped to zero, but within a second or two it came back to life. The "STOP driving" sign blinked just once or twice during this time and disappeared." I can't say for sure, but I am almost sure the engine came back on its own before I cranked it. After that, it felt like it was about to go anytime, but that could have been psychological. Got to work, turned off the engine, turned it on again, and no EPC light!
I found his tidbit on the web claiming it could be the MAF. I also have had the secondary air pump code for the last few months. Could that also be triggered by a faulty MAF? Obviously, I am taking the car to the dealer tomorrow morning. I hope it will be easy to diagnose and fix. Otherwise, it might be time to dump the car?
2004 Acura MDX, check engine light came on. Got code checked: P0741, supposed to be switch or torque converter. My mechanic won't do transmission work, so took to dealer. They drained fluid, no metal shavings. Now they want to replace transmission, said it has internal damage. It wasn't running badly, a little slippage here and there. Don't think it really needs replaced.
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