Every few weeks my Acura TL 08 loses power while driving. I am able to brake, stop, then restart the engine. A dealer mechanic drove the thing for a week trying to replicate the problem. Another garage has done a bunch of usual diags. We replaced the ignition switch. Still happening, with no obvious pattern.
View 4 RepliesMy 1998 Acura RL just shut off while entering the garage. The engine shut off, and the battery and engine lights remained on. An attempt to restart the car without taking the key out of the ignition did not work (no sound). Taking the key out of the ignition and restarting it worked like normal.
Occasionally the car makes a loud sound right after starting, which resembled a cross between a honk and a grinding sound. I'm not sure if this is related.
I would rather the car not stop mid-drive on a busy street or the highway.
What is wrong with my car. It drives fine for a while every day then out of the blue starts hesitating and sounding like it wants to shut off when we're at a traffic light. It gets worse when I am making a turn, like it hesitates to pick up speed and starts like sputtering. When my car does this the muffler starts smoking really bad. The smoke is not a black color it is white. When it feels like it's going to turn off, I have to put it in Neutral then it stops. They did say the fuel pump wasn't bad so I am assuming spark plugs??? What may be causing this problem?
View 3 RepliesMy 2010 Prius with 72k miles on it. I bought a OBDII scanner and read P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected. The check engine light comes on for few days, then go away for few weeks and then come back again. It's been doing the exact same thing (Come on for few days and then go away) in last few months. But I do not feel any different in terms of driving.
View 9 Replies06 6.0 f250, I went out of town for 2 weeks came back home and went to jump in my truck and it seemed like it almost started but didn't then slowly each time I tried it seemed like the battery was draining down. Is this just from it sitting for so long without cranking or is it something else my scangauge says I'm getting 11.5 volts. Do I need to just jump it off or get a whole new battery. Or is it another issue?
View 2 Replies2005 Honda Civic which has been pretty reliable up to this point. Had all the suggested maintenance services up until the most recent which just passed. Last oil change and inspection: Early November.
Last month:Went to start up the car and it basically went all blinky with power. But after letting it sit for a minute or two, it started up just fine. This happened three times. On the third time opened up the hood and found corrode on both polls of the battery. Scrubbed and cleaned the posts and connectors. Had the battery tested and it was just fine. After that no problems or occurrences. Only things that lingers in my head is that perhaps the driver door window rolls down slowly (thought the motor was going out and would have to replace soon) and the headlines would slightly dim and waver at times, but not consistently.
Now:Just got back from vacation and car has been sitting about two weeks. Mostly in weather below freezing, but in a garage. Went to start up the car and the starter would rev but the engine would not turn over. Battery seems to be good still. Jumping did not work either.
So on my way home today I lost all power, the engine shut of and i coasted to side of the road. Went to try and start, nothing. When key is in the crank position the gauges were jumping all over the place, also accompanied by a lot of clicking from behind the dash. Nothing happened when tried to crank. No power to windows or even emergency flashers.
So i get it towed home, and of course it turns over. But this only lasts about ten seconds, then dies. I could do that a few times and then back to no power at all. Even at times with the keys out of ignition it will still click and make a lot of noise.
Had the ole factory fuel separator/bowl drain start leaking on me about a month back. So i ordered and installed a new one, issue fixed. Well last night the fuel leak started again, I looked everywhere and i cant see anywhere else it may be leaking at. I felt the underside of said piece and it didn't feel wet, but the valley is full of fuel.
I got in there and tightened the 4 bolts down some more, they were tight but i got a some turns on em and am hoping i either didn't tighten it down enough or they maybe backed out some. Now just gotta see if that solves the problem, again.... the replacement is a doorman, the o-rings were bigger/thicker than the factory orings on the old part, of which the o-rings were shot.
Like I said once i replaced the part the leak stopped for 3 weeks until last night. If the tightening of the bolts doesn't solve it where should I look next? I have an FRX mod but i checked all that and its dry as a bone around all the fittings by the bowl and the heads. No indications of leaks anywhere around any of the FRX assembly.
I was headed down the highway in my 2007 Santa Fe last night. All of the sudden, I lost engine power. I pushed the gas peddle and nothing. We coasted down to a stop on the side of the road. I attempted to restart, all it did was turn over. I noticed the OIL light was on, so I got out and double checked my oil level. Right up to the full mark. Probably about a year ago, I had a check - engine light. I have a code that indicates that my gas level sender has failed, so my gas gauge does not work. I am sure you are saying.....he just ran out of gas. Well, not the case. I filled up the day before, and figured I had another 100 miles left on this tank.
Over 171000 miles on it and I have no intention of giving it up soon.
I am working on a 2007 F350 ambulance for a volunteer fire department. It run great, even with the key turned off sometimes. This is an intermittent problem. About every 10 times it is used the engine will not shut off when you turn the key off. The instrument cluster turns on and off as normal. The other odd part is if you leave the key in the off position when the engine does not turn off the RPM starts going up. I have not left it in off long enough to see how high it would go. It does not have a remote start and never has.
View 6 RepliesLast November I forgot to plug my truck in and it got down to 0, my girlfriend tried unsuccessfully to jump start it. When I got home I jumped it and got it running. I took it down to a heated shop to troubleshoot the glow plug circuit. I discovered it was not getting 12v to the glow plug relay. Also I started it and tried to back it up in the shop, when put in reverse it killed the engine, not lugged it down it was like you shut the switch off.
Also I discovered if you turn the lights on it kills the engine immediately. It will not crank with the lights on either. So far I have replaced the computer,ignition switch,batteries, and cam positioning sensor. Now comes the weird part!! I decided to get it running and pull the bulbs out of the back up lights I pulled the drivers bulb first then the passengers side bulb. When I pulled the passengers side bulb it killed the engine.
It is not my daily driver so it still sits in my shop. I have a hunch it's a ground issue but I've checked and cleaned up all the grounds I can find and it still has the problem.
My 6.7 makes a humming noise when i shut down my engine. Starts a little loud and gets softer at the end. it last maybe for a minute. But here's the catch if i stick the key back in the ignition it stops and as soon as i pull it out it starts again.
View 4 RepliesHaving issues with a 2014 shutting down. Was at a stop light the other day and car completely lost power and shut down. When this happened oil, engine, and battery light came on. Once I parked car and turned off, it restarted. The dealership acted like I had no idea what I was talking about and would like to have some information when I take it back to have this problem corrected the car is not even 2 years old and has 30,000 miles on it.
View 14 RepliesOk this may be the norm, but I'm hearing something like a motor running after i kill my engine? It sounds like a fuel pump or something!!! O ya I have a 2011 6.7. I've had the truck for several months but just now hearing this....
View 11 RepliesI do not think, I have seen anything about the engine shutting down descending a steep grade. first it threw the "wrench" warning and than that the engine was going on limp mode. luckily no one was on the road with me, coming or going. i pulled off on the shoulder with part of the pickup and 5er on the road. no steering or brakes used the 5er brakes to stop. turned the key off and restarted it again and no code or warnings. like nothing happened. it happened twice today between yellowstone park and great falls, mt. the second time the engine light stayed on and i had to stop and turn it off and restart it and it went away.
View 14 RepliesThe EMS service in the county next to ours lost one of it's new trucks for a few days on Tuesday. While going on a call, the engine made a tapping sound for only a few seconds, then a loud pop and shut off. Ford dealer went and picked it up and took it in for evaluation. VERDICT: Broken rod and cracked block. I have to say, this is the first I've heard of a 6.7L having a problem like this in our area.
Ford was really interested in this engine, as a new one is already on the way and the old one is to be shipped back for complete breakdown. So far, the Director and County Manager have been impressed with Ford's response to this problem. Dealer has told them the truck should be ready by the middle to end of next week. If I hear anything else, I will let you know. Any engine can break at any time, I'm just glad they are moving quickly to rectify the situation.
Having that flash on the dash? Truck was running fine and the buzzer when off and dash said I think -- when safe stop and shut off engine immediately. Scared the scr-p out of me so not sure if that was word for word. Jump on the binders and got it off the road and called a wrecker. Now it's at the dealer waiting for them in the morning. Checked oil and don't see any leaks. Now I have lost my confidence in the truck. 42000 miles on it.
View 14 RepliesShould the engine block of an 2005 Acura RL crack if the car's maintenance has been regular and complete according to all dealer specified recommendations? Cooling system never stopped working either. What else could cause the engine block to crack?
View 14 RepliesI have a 99 TL. The car generally runs well, but at times,the engine just cuts out. I can be traveling 55 mph and the engine will just stall. Usually it starts right up. I can also be running well, and when it idles it will stall. Otherwise, at times, it starts with no problem. Other times it will turn over, but not start until many tries. I have replaced most of the sensors. No check engine lights comes on, so there is no way to accurately diagnose the problem.
View 3 RepliesI have a 99 acura TL. The car generally runs well, but at times, and without warning the engine will stop. I can be driving at 70 and it will stop. Usually it starts back up again right away.
Sometimes it will be a little harder to restart, requiring up to ten times to restart. The it runs perfectly.I have replaced a number of sensors as well as the EGR valve. I just can't seem to figure this out.
As of right now check engine comes on. Prior to that other codes have come on. When it stalls, it just stops cold. There is no warning and no indication it is going to stall.
Recently I noticed my car vibrates to left and right when I hit the pedal and the speed is around 40mph and above. The car runs smooth if I maintain the speed.The car has 176K and running quite good and I am about to have the timing belt service.I am just curious what could cause this: timing belt? fuel filter? The car is 2001 acura TL so it has front wheel drive.
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