Acura - Tl :: 2007 - Aligned Twice But Still Pulls Left At Highway Speeds
Aug 7, 2013
I own a 2007 Acura TL (3.2) with 130K miles. Last October I hit a pot hole which blew my front driver side tire and bent my rear driver side wheel and upper control arm. After replacing both tires, wheel, control arm and having the car realigned twice by two different Acura mechanics over the past 6months, my car still pulls left at highway speeds. I've noticed that the tires have gotten louder while driving and that both passenger side tires have worn significantly but only on the outer most edge (left side facing car). Before I buy any more tires and spend more $ on alignments, why is the car pulling left? What else could wrong with my suspension?
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I just bought the car a less then a month highway speeds car shakes at 120km/h. I just complained to Toyota dealer ship and they put on brand new front rotors and did alignment at highway speeds the car still is shaking and it pulls to the left can it just be tires alone or back rotors because they didn't replace those.
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I have a 2005 Malibu. After two alignments, a front wheel alignment by an independent shop and a "four wheel" alignment by the dealer, my car still pulls to the left at highway speeds. What else could be the cause of this? Bought the car with 22,000 miles and now have 80,000 plus. No accidents; don't understand what is wrong.
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I'm noticing more and more on the highway when i accelerate that my car seems to pull to one side then when it shifts it snaps back. I'm not really sure if I'm even describing a transmission issue or a power steering issue. Basically, it just seems to pull and snap back fairly strongly, enough to cause a slight swerve as it shifts during acceleration. Where to start on something like this? (no error codes or check engine lights. Also no vibrations or other sounds).
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2001 Ex 7.3 4x4 with 4" lift (6" with 37" Pro Comp tires)
All new front end steering components.
All new Shocks (bilstein)
All tires properly inflated to same PSI
All new brake rotors, calipers, caliper mounts, and pads.
When under hard acceleration the vehicle pulls to the left and I have to compensate by steering to the right. Under deceleration the vehicle pulls to the right and I have to compensate by steering to the left.
I am about to change all four brake lines to Braided Stainless Steel lines, replace all leaf spring bushings with polyurethane, and install a rear anti-sway bar. I'm going through this methodically enough or am I just building a brand new truck one part at a time?
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I had my dealer install a set of H&R springs the mild drop option. He put it on the rack and reset the alignment. I drove it and it pulls hard to the left. The car has never done this before. He then took everything back off recheck the suspension and found nothing wrong. He realigned the car and it still pulls hard left. The car is a 2007 Camry SE.
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I have a 2009 Santa Fe Limited (2 wheel drive) that pulls to the left a little while driving.
Before taking it in for an alignment, need to know whether or not both the front toe and the camber are adjustable on this vehicle?
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My 2003 F250 6.0 pulls to the right when driving at any speed. In order to keep it going straight the steering wheel must be slightly tilted to the left, not much but a little. When the brakes are applied hard it will go to the left slightly if you are not holding the wheel good. Neither of these are terrible, just a nuisance. I'm worried about uneven tire wear too. One front wheel bearing was replaced a few weeks ago. It had this problem before that and still does after. Does this sound like an alignment or maybe something more?
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Recently had 2012 ES350 aligned at about 14,000 miles. Drives fairly straight at lower speeds on most roads, but on interstate has sharp left pull in left lane at around 65 mph and above. I am aware of road crown, but, in contrast to left lane pull, car has virtually no pull either way in right lane and tends to drive straight; steering at least seems to be stiffer than when I bought it and much stiffer than it seems an ES350 ought to be.
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Purchased one owner Prius from Honda dealer May 2014 with 92000 miles.Now 2 months later 94000. Both service departments of Honda and a Toyota dealer said my car handles normally for a Prius.The car dips from left to right while driving at slow and highway speeds. It feels like a boat moving through water. The suspension was said to be good.Driving it feels unstable, like a Montero Sport or a stage coach. I wanted to do a lot of driving this summer, but this feels so uncomfortable.
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I have a 2009 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4x4 Laredo. For approximately the past 7 months there has been a noise coming from the left rear of the vehicle at speeds above approximately 60 mph. The sound is not metallic in nature, it sounds more like a seat belt flapping against something. The frequency is approximately 2 Hz and is very consistent at highway speeds. The driver can seldom hear it apparently due to interior acoustics, but the someone in the passenger seat or the back seat hears it plainly, over a period of time it is very annoying.
In addition, if you touch the left rear interior side panel (in the cargo area) it seems like you can feel a small vibration that matches the sound. I have had the vehicle inspected by Jeep, they find nothing. I have had the left rear interior panel removed to see if there was a problem with the sound system cable bundle that runs through there, but it was OK. We thought it might be the metal gas tank door vibrating in the wind stream, so we taped the door down, but the sound was not affected. What the source of this sound might be?
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe with the 2.7L engine and 62K miles. At 65-70 mph I have a very noticeable miss. The check engine light has not come on and a scan at a Parts House shows no trouble codes.
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I have a 2010 Santa Fe AWD, I notice that when I apply the brakes at 100 KM or higher I hear a 'thumping' noise, the noise is hard to describe, thumping is the best I could come up with, the noise goes away once the vehicle is down to 80 KM, why this is?
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Owned my 2009 for 6 months now. Ever since purchasing it, car will vibrate significantly at highway speeds when first driving it, then decrease by 90% after a few miles. At first, since I purchased in winter, thought it was cold flat spots on tires. Dealer changed tires 3 times, finally with a new set of Turanza OEM tires. Still does it.
Service manager said he drove new 460's and they all do the same thing for a few miles. I have seen other comments on internet from other owners who report the same phenomenon. Don't think it is the tires since we went through 3 sets and it still does it in the summer. What else could cause a vibration until the car is warmed up?
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I replaced my tires yesterday with Bridgestone Turanza ER33 (245/45/19).
After replacing the tires, there is is an extreme vibration in the front end of the car when braking at highway speeds (60+ mph). Braking at sub 50mph speeds is completely normal. No lights, no vibration while driving. What could be the reason?
Also while removing the lug nut locks, the locks key broke apart (the black piece came out of the key). After like 45mins of trying, finally we got the locks out. I threw them away.
I searched online for regular lug nuts, but couldn't find any beside ebay. The local dealer says I need to wait for 3 weeks to get them from Japan! Where can I get a set of 4 regular lug nuts online?
I'm now running on 4 lug nuts on each wheel. Could this cause a problem? Could the vibration be caused by not having a 5th lug nut in place?
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I recently bought a 2007 Sonata V6, and the brakes pulsate (when applied) at highway speeds, so I am looking to replace the front rotors & pads. I have been told that the OEM rotors/pads aren't great & that as a result many owners have a brake pulsating/vibration issue.
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I have a 2007 F150 King Ranch Super Crew 5.4 3v and it makes a ticking sound. I have read about the VCT solenoids and the phasers. My issue is that the ticking noise can be heard at Highway speeds. At it seems to be quicker as the engine speed increase. Not sure what to think. No rough idle. What could this be.
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First, details about my truck. 2007 F150 SuperCrew, 2wd, 5.4, 203,xxx miles on it, leveled with Hell Bent Steel 2.5" kit last year, has been aligned professionally since then, tires are good and balanced.
The issue I have is a vibration, kind of the same feeling when driving on a road surface that has had the top level of asphalt removed before it's resurfaced. It's mostly noticable at highway speeds. Its not a violent type vibration, but you can feel it. There is also a sound, similar to tires with a deep off road type tread.
The sound and vibration more noticeable when making lane changes or when wheel turned towards left, at highway speeds, not as much to the right. I've checked front wheel bearings, they are good, zero play, no loose suspension parts, u-joints are good, no leaks anywhere.
Since it makes the noise and vibration a bit more when moving wheel, could it be a power steering pump? The pump is the original.
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So I have been noticing a shimmy/bouncing at highway speeds (between 60-80mph) for a couple of months. It started right after I had a local indy tire shop swap my sliver stock wheels for the chrome version of the same wheel I picked up locally.
Funny thing is I did my front brakes last Sunday and after putting the tires back on, the ride felt smoother at highway speeds. I figured perhaps the indy shop didn't torque the wheels properly (which I'm sure they didn't as they didn't ask me the torque spec and didn't look it up, and used an impact gun to tighten bolts). I torqued my front wheels to 103lb by hand after doing front brakes.
This Thursday, I did my rear brakes and torqued the rears to 103lb. On the highway the shaking/bouncing is back and dare I say more noticeable.
Could it be that I did something incorrect when installing the rear wheels? The tires are Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 with about 15k miles on them. Look to be wearing evenly.
I have an appt. on Monday to have the tires balanced at Discount Tire. I asked about their machine and he said it's a Hunter which I take to me Hunter Road Force balancing machine. Is there anything particular that I should ask or know prior to going in?
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When I am driving, especially at high speeds on the highway, the Navigation System on my Prius runs pretty slow. As the GPS icon is traveling, the movement is very choppy. It is not a smooth transition. Is there any way that I can fix this?
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We have had had our Santa Fe for a year, done 38000 km and love it. The car will start up and drive around town fine but as soon as the engine is under load at highway speeds or driving up a hill it loses all power.
In Automatic when this happens the gear will drop back to third. You can switch it over to manual mode and slowly accelerate back up to around 80-90km/hour with your foot flat to the floor but the rpm don't get above around 2000 to 3000.
If you stop and turn the engine off for a minute or so, when you start again everything will appear to back to normal but after another minute or two the problem will be back. The engine malfunction light comes on and sometime it's flashing but at other times it's constant.
The car's been in at our local Hyundai dealer for a week but at this stage they still can't quite figure out the exact cause of the problem. The code they pulled out suggested it was the exhaust particulate filter (apparently quite an expensive part) so they replaced that but it didn't fix it. They've also replaced the fuel filter and some temperature sensors that are part of the particulate filter apparently but still no joy.
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