Acura - Tl :: 2004 6MT Shakes Violently When RPMs Go Between 1200 And 2000
Sep 20, 2013
My 2004 Acura TL with 6 speed manual transmission has an issue. When the RPMs go between 1200 and 2000 the car shakes violently as if the engine isn't attached or is trying to get away. At idle it's silky smooth and after 2000 RPM it feels fine too. The gear I'm in doesn't matter and this shaking happens whether I'm standing still or driving... it just happens in the 1200-2000 RPM range. Again, this is not a small amount of vibration, I'm talking about seriously shaking the whole car.
This is what I've done so far:
1. Replaced the three engine mounts two days ago, and double checked the transmission mounts and they seem fine. At the same time my mechanic discovered a few bolts on the subframe that were loose, and we tightened those.
2. Replaced O2 sensor that was causing check engine light and it's fine now.
3. Timing belt, clutch and power steering was done by previous owner maybe 3-4 months ago.
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My 2001 Accent doesn't give me any power when its cold in fact when I try starting it when its cold, the car will start and then after 1-2 min would violently (may be that's a little too strong a word to describe it) shake and then stall. This happens about 1-2 times and then the car finally starts.
If I drive my car uphill (not a very big), after heating it up, car would just start moving along slowly (or stall) even on the first gear and full gas. And sometimes while driving the car loses all power. It just trudges along no matter how much gas I press,
I no nothing about cars, so I am not sure if I conveyed my problem correctly. I just hope that the problem is fixable and wont cost me my entire salary to fix.
P.S: I always thought that the problem was me and that I couldn't drive a manual. Today a friend of the mine, who has been driving manual for 20 years also had the same trouble.
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I have a 2000 f350 v10 ext cab 8 ft bed 4wd,i replaced all 10 plugs all 10 coils at 40 mph the truck violently shakes an vibrates read on a few things that could be crack cylinder or bad pistons,i did a test on it an says low compression in 2 cylinders 1&2 what can I do an what is the best option for me as I just got the truck not even a month ago...
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I was climbing up a hill on the highway, and I was aware of my issue by the time I hit the top of the hill - my car far into the red zone on the temp gauge.
I pulled over just after i got off, let it cool for a few minutes, check oil and coolant and they seemed fine (from what i could, but it was dark. Drove home because it was only a few mins away, and it had cooled a bit already, but it started sounding really weird at low rpms (1200-1500) almost a clanging noise.
Just as i was pulling into my driveway, there were a whole bunch of weird noises, and at least one of them was me losing coolant from the cap. Turned off the car and the coolant overflow box was completely full, and the radiator cap had leaked some too.
Some other things i noticed - sounded like boiling water inside the large hoses, hoses felt empty, and the coolant box emptied all of a sudden after the hoses sucks everything back up.
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I occasionally experience steering wheel vibration no matter what speed I'm traveling. It starts out as a small shake and eventually becomes nearly impossible to hold onto the steering wheel. On two separate occasions, the brakes have gone out.The car has passed PA state safety inspection and I have taken it to 3 different mechanics and no one can figure out what the problem is. I have had new tires and spark plugs installed, keep up with regular oil changes, etc.
2004 Toyota Corolla S, 4 cylinders, 1.81 l engine, 240,000 miles, manual transmission..
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I have 2005 f250 5.4l 3v that was having miss problems between 1200 and 2000 RPMs. Changed VCT solenoids which worked, but then could hear chain hitting cover when powering down throttle on left side. Figured chain tensioner was bad, so tore down and removed timing cover. Found left chain was tighter than what seems normal, and right side had huge amount of slack. While taking off tensioner on left side, something happened to fast for me to see it, and still not sure if what happened wasn't just my imagination. I thought that the chain moved very fast for an inch or two. Anyways, I watched how to video on timing the 3v, but I am very confused about it. The left bank seems to line up on timing marks perfectly, but the right chain is off by at least 2 1/2 links. Not knowing any better, I removed three rockers on left bank (2 intakes and 1 exhaust) but only removed two intake rockers on right side. I don't know what I am doing and getting scared.
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I have a 2000 f250 crew cab short bed 7.3 on a 6inch bds lift and 37 inch tires. When I accelerate pretty much any load above 1200 rpms I can feel a vibration, kinda feels like it may be coming from the front left but I'm not sure. I have heard that a wheel bearing going out can cause this, would this maybe be what's causing it?
I thought wheel bearing because it kind of sounds like there's a howl when decelerating, probably when accelerating as well but the trucks too loud and I can't hear it. or also have heard motor mount gone bad, I've also heard ujoints but the ujoints were done this summer. the front ujoint is bad but the front driveshaft shouldn't be turning when out of 4x4 and hubs unlocked.
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I drive a 2003 Honda Accord and it shakes violently whenever I'm accelerating between 55 and 65 mph. If you put a shaker on the passenger seat, you'd have a martini. Approaching 55, it's fine, and then it shakes as I go up to 65 and then smooths out when I pass 65. If I am cruising, but not accelerating in between 55 and 65, it stops shaking, but once I hit the gas, it shakes.
The same phenomenon occurs in both third and fourth gears, so it doesn't appear to be related to what part of the power band the car is in. This model Accord had a recall on the engine mounts, which I had replaced at no small cost already.
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I remember the days when we experienced flat spots on our tires. I have been told by several dealers that it no longer occurs. well then there is something else wrong then. Starting the day for about 15 miles the front end shakes-sometimes violently. after 15 miles or so then things are ok. the dealer cannot reproduce the problem. he is 25 miles away.. i have 30 thousand miles on the tires-they are original..need an answer-really don't weant to buy new tires..my car is a 2012 Hyundai santé fe
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My boyfriend and I took a trip up to Mount Hood from Portland, Ore. When we got to the campsite we unpacked, had campfire, beer and relaxing lakeside walk. The evening was warm and balmy. The next morning when we were headed down the mountain we started up the car and it shook so violently from the front right side my boyfriend and I bailed out of the car almost in James Bond panic. We looked under the hood and found nothing (expecting a squirrel).
We waited about 20 minutes and then restarted the car having no access to the greater world (no reception). The second time nothing happened. We coasted down the mountain most of the way. I then took the car back to the Broadway Toyota and they had no idea what had happened. Mind you I took her in for 5,000 check up 5 days before going up the mountain. I am wondering if it could be gas related? Altitude related? No check engine light or anything.
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2001 F150 4x4 harsh shaking. When driving at consistent speeds the truck begins to shutter and shake, begins as a light shake and becomes extremely harsh fast. This is not like a vibration that can be felt, but a really harsh shaking of the entire truck.
The truck continues to shake after taking foot off gas and braking. It will shake harshly even when braking and slowed down to 5mph, but instantly goes away once at a complete stop. Accelerate immediately after coming to a complete stop and it completely goes away and drives normal for a day.
Check Engine light has not come on. Tachometer stays consistent RPM. Shift into neutral does not stop shaking. Only coming to a complete stop ether in drive or neutral does the shaking stop. It happens driving at consistent speeds going 35mph & 65mph, etc. Any thoughts on what the issue could be?
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Problem: 55-60+ mph hit a bump front end shakes violently. Slow down to 40 mph it stops. DOES NOT happen every time, and may only happen once a week, but when it does my whole front end feels like it will come loose.
Solutions to date that have not worked:
1. Rotate and balance tires. (tire shop)
2. New shocks. (me)
3. New steering stabilizer. (me)
4. Changed ball joint and bushing in track bar. (Dealership)
5. Check ball bearings and seem to be ok. (me)
6. Check tie rod ends and are ok. (Dealership)
The only other options people have given me:
1. Dual Steering Stabilizer. (Have had truck since Jan and hasn't done it in about 19,000 miles. Why would it need it now? Truck has 109,000 miles on it.)
2. New tires. (If it were the tires wouldn't it do it all the time? )
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I've found a bad engine mount over the passenger front wheel I'm replacing (why they had to put the 5th nut holding the mount underneath the mount instead of on top like the rest, i'll never know. drilling that out and replacing with a bolt and nut on top to fix that and going to slap an engineer). There's no wheel balance issues or wobbly wheels when up on the lift. Recently replaced my spark plugs, could it be a misfire that causes this when the engine is being pushed past 3K rpms?
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Recently I believe i got a tank of bad gas. Was having problems starting. Finished it off filled up used injector cleaner and dry gas to clean it out a bit more. Now as I was driving the car would basically stall out but kick back in as I was driving and the EPC light would come on. I've been reading up and most answers are a bad coil pack. I pulled them all out and checked them they all look pretty good. No codes are popping up for it a coil pack. Unless I need a specific VW model computer to check. I'm gonna check the volts on the coil packs today to see as well.
The EPC light does go off after the car sits a while. It comes back after a few miles driving. After the EPC light comes on my car will idle at 1200 RPMs up from 800 when its normal.
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On start up (Engine cold) my rpm goes to 1200 for about 30 seconds then settles to 650, is this normal ?
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My 95 Jeep GC is a great car, but it is now behaving too strangely to ignore. At about 1200 RPMs, when I'm just lightly hitting the gas, the car starts to have a "sputter" feel to it, like it's running out of gas. Then, after running it on the highway for a couple of hours (I live 2 hours from the nearest city in Alaska) the turning radius practically disappears and there is a horrible clunking noise and feel when I try to make a sharp turn. This goes away after driving it slowly through town for a while. The sputtering only happens at 1200. I've had it at 3 different mechanics, and no one can figure it out. I've emptied the gas tank and filled it with Premium and added 'heat' to it. I've had all the fluids changed out. I see this as two seperate issues, but can not figure out the sputtering thing at all.
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I have a 2001 Passat GLS 4 cylinder. At Idle the car surges from about 800-1200 Rpms. seems to run fine while on the gas. but always surges while not on the gas. The check engine light is on, and autozone gave the following codes :
P0411
P0102
P0135
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2007 5.4 . Starts good , idles all day. As soon as you try to rev it, it stumbles rattles etc. Shut it off, wait a second, restart then Idles fine. I watched live Data and it carries on when the VVT solenoids become active (above 800 rpm).There duty cycle goes to 60-70 percent while revving. I think it Is just one side of the engine. Could be VVT solenoids sticking on? yes ? No?
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I was driving today and had just gotten off the highway. I was going at no more than 10MPH when I heard some high pitched sound. At first I couldn't figure out what it was and thought maybe it was some outside noise. It quickly got louder over the span of the next few seconds and then I realized it was the engine. I had the pedal barely down so was definitely in electric mode.
I quickly glanced at my Scan Gauge and actually saw the RPMs go from 1200's up to 3400 in no more than 10 seconds. I have never had the car rev this high, probably just 2400s when I'm on the highway going 70's. By this time I was getting very perplexed and worried, and had my foot completely off the gas pedal. I immediately pulled to the side of the road and parked (hit the P button). The car seemed to go into park mode fine and then over the next few seconds the RPMs went back down to 992, and I made it back to the house no problem.
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It started snowing going down to 10-15 degrees during school hours. and whenever i go to turn my car on it starts but immediately the RPMs rise to about 1300 and then immediately drops to about 300 then immediately back up to 1200 but stays steady until it warms up then drops to normal about 700. i understand the cold start when it idles high until it warms up but why does it drop then come back up?
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I have a 2004 SD with 5.4 that is running pretty rough both at idle and driving. Truck shakes a lot at lower rpms. I have a scan tool and had a misfire on cylinder 4 so I replaced the coil and the plug. Also replaced the idle air control valve. Plan on replacing O2 B1 S2. (One of my codes) even after replacing the coil and plug I'm still getting misfire detected from cylinder 4??? Other codes I had were misfire detected on he first 1000 revolutions. That hasn't come back though.
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