Acura - Tl :: 2000 - Spit, Sputter And Die After Parked For Few Minutes
Jan 12, 2012
I have a 2000 acura tl with almost 200,000 miles on it. When I drive it for more than an hour, park to run errands then get back in after say 15 minutes the car will spit and sputter and die. In order to leave I have to hold my foot on the gas and break to force it to stay running. I run premium gas and in the winter I use seafoam additive with every fill up but it doesn't seem to work. This problem is more prevalent during the winter months; my mechanic is telling me the fix will cost 1200 for a full ecu reflash to fix it.
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i have 1992 v6 olds cutlass ciera. it likes to spit and sputter sometimes. no matter if it's hot or cold, up a hill or on flat, slow or stop?
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My 2002 Windstar SEL has been giving me a fit and I`m not getting any codes as to why. Here`s the 2 main issues. Clicking when i go to start up in a.m. if it`s below 50 degrees. ( Battery has been checked and all is o.k. or so I was informed). As long as it`s warm it starts fine every time. Also,it seems like the least bit of wet on the underside will cause it to spit and sputter and the check engine light will start blinking until it sits and dries for a while. (A very shallow puddle less than 6 inches deep at low speed or even the automatic car wash that sprays the undercarriage).
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So the Ex is starting to behave badly again in the morning! From time to time, when starting first thing in the AM cold the Ex will spit sputter and die all while puffing black smoke. Total time is under 3 seconds.
Start it again and it is fine. I have not had this issue before. There are absolutely no codes what so ever! And since it is such a short time sputtering nothing really shows up on the ScanGauge 2.....
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This is what its doing... Im starting to feel lost about whats wrong. I start it up and everything is fine. With in about 10 minutes it starts to bubble and spit out a little water then shuts its self off. And the gauge on the dash never reads above 190. And the fans don't come on unless i turn the ac on. And the ac still blows cold. The lower hose stays cold. I just replaced the thermostat and the water pump. But it changed nothing. Im thinking maybe its clogged somewhere. Maybe in the heater core or the radiator.
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1999 Acura Integra 4DR LS Auto with 93k miles
I tried to bleed by letting the engine run with the Radiator cap open and the heat lever set to the max. It ran almost 10 mins but the the fan never came on! It was Not getting hot either. I had the hood opened. I manually raised the rev to 2.5k rpm and engine got hot a bit -After I reved up to 2.5k, the temp gauge hardly went to under 1/4 of the gauge. Fans still didn't come on. It is pretty hot here in North California today.Then I turned the AC on - the both fans came on instantly. When I turn off the AC it went off too!
Is this normal? Or do you think that it did not heat up to about 80 degrees Celsius. Do the engine normally takes between 20 to 30 mins of running to get to operating temperature for the fan switches to work? If I drive on the road for a while and when I park with engine running (no AC on) and if the radiator fan is running, can I dismiss the issue?
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I drive a 2007 Ford Focus and when the fuel level gets to half a tank the car tries to die, and quite often does, when making a left turn. About 1% of the time it will do it when making a right hand turn. It will also sputter and die when running it on idle for a few min. It first started doign this at 1/4 tank but has gotten to where it will do it at 1/2 now.
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1992 Mercedes 300E with 160,000 miles that I've owned for 15 years. Car runs fine for approximately 10-20 minutes and then starts to sputter and cough and if I don't increase the RPM's it will stall. If I increase the RPM's it will smooth out for a little while, but after a couple of minutes with higher RPM's it will sputter again and finally stall. After it sits for awhile I can start it up again and it runs fine for another 10-20 minutes. No check engine light is on and the car is OBD 1.
This problem preceded the weather recently turning cold. Thus far I replaced the spark plug wires as the other ones were old, but this didn't work. The spark plugs themselves were replaced about 2 years ago. At this point I'm suspecting it needs a new distributor cap and rotor (when I replaced the wires some of the cap's posts had corrosion, which I cleaned off with a brush).
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96 teg 1.8 non vtech after a while it will lose spark some times it runs for a few days then loses spark but will start up with in 10 min sometimes it just just stalls out and loses spark but restarts with in 10 minutes.
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I parked the car.. Came out to proceed but car wouldn't turn on.. No lights coming on.. I think I left the lights on.. But I was only away for like 20 min.. It's a Prius ..
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1987 Acura Integra 165k... After parking the car, and turning off the engine, and locked the car, the brake light continue to stay on for about 10mins - then goes off on its on.What seems to be the problem - easy to fix?
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After about a 40 minute drive I notice this noise from the cabin when I parked. I popped the hood and took a short video. What this is? It's a Golf SE 1.8T. (Video)
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Drove the car, 20 min to shopping, and when I came out the car would sputter and die??!! it happened a few times.. it would crank for really a long time, engine would fire up but sputter & die. I was cussing & let the car sit at mall parking lot for a bit, thinking I'll have to cab home but it started up again after 10 min and drove fine. It happened on a parking lot, not on the highway.
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I had to drive 70 miles last week the temp outside was 98. My air conditioner was blowing cold air, I parked my car for 30 minutes. When I started my car again the air would not work, no blower nothing. I was on my way to have it tested, turned it on and it is working and blowing cold air. I do not to be stuck again traveling and it stop.
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My daughter's 02 Honda Accord is making a sound like a phone on vibrate every few minutes as it sits parked in our driveway. Not sure if this is pertinent but the driveway is sloped so the rear is higher than the front. I've search everywhere to try to locate the sound (thinking it was a cell phone left in the car) but it seems to be coming from under the middle to rear of the car. Could it be the gas tank pump going spastic?
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I'm having a very strange problem with my 2011 Prius.
About two and a half hours ago, I drove home and parked my Prius for the night. About an hour after I parked, my Prius started beeping, three short beeps, every couple of munutes. It's now been doing this for over 90 minutes. Because I can hear it from the house, it is very, very, very annoying.
I have checked all of the doors, and also took the car out for a quick spin around the block, in hopes of getting the beeping to stop. No luck. It keeps beep-beep-beeping every few minutes.
It has been unusually cold here the past couple of days, in case that has anything to do with it. That being said, it was a good 10-15 degrees colder yesterday, yet the car wasn't having this problem. It only started this evening.
My question is, what in the world could be causing this beeping? Is there any way to stop it?
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So, a year ago or so I had the truck die on me, it would start after cranking it a long time and cough/sputter for a few minutes with no power. I thought it seemed like a weak hpop or leaking oring, so I tore it down and put it all back together with a something or other hpop. Now I have a no crank no fuel pump condition, the injectors don't cycle when I turn the key on, I do get relays clicking, but no start, the yellow/blue wire gets the starter to turn over, but no fuel, so couldn't start if it wanted to... I am getting 120 ohms (like 122) on the dlc 6,14 and millivolts, basically nothing between 4 and 14...
I sent the ficm off to get rebuilt and they told me that it was already good (charged me anyway though, ah well...) I wiggled wires around and pulled my ficm plugs apart and pushed the wires in some, didn't seem to move any... What is next? There can't be that many things that cause all three, No Fuel Pump, No Crank and No Injector Buzz, can there?
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I wrote about the problem I was having back in Jan 2014 (engine would crank too long if I left the car parked for 30 mins to 4 hrs) ..... well, I finally brought it o a good diagnosis tics place and some of the guys that replied to me we're correct ..... they told me that the crankshaft position sensor (1of 2 sensors) was faulty and replaced it.
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I have a 1985 Ford Escort which I have to keep parked outdoors at the bottom of a very steep mile and a half long hill. It's right next to a river and very damp and cold and I only use the car once a week, very early on a Saturday morning. It takes at least five minutes of cranking to get it started with full choke. I then have to pull away up this 1 in 4 gradient hill with four of us in the car. About half a mile up the hill there's a junction and if I have to stop at this the car will often stall and be very difficult to restart. If I keep the choke out it will crank and crank and crank. If I push it in it will fire after a few tries but won't stay running. Having problems on really steep hills with cold engines and a manual choke?
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Past few mornings, I had a bit of trouble starting my 2002 Passat V6 (60K miles); car would start, and sputter. After a few times of this, the car would eventually turn over, and would be a little rough once I put it in gear for the first few hundred feet or so.
Brought it up to North Penn VW in Colmar, and the service tech said it had to do with the ethanol in fuel settling to the bottom of the tank, and not being potent enough to fire the engine, and normal acceleration would be enough to burn this stuff out of the lines and/or where the gas and ethanol would mix.
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I have a 2005 Accent Manual, and my check engine light came on a little while ago. So far since then, my car has started to hesitate, and sputter at times. It just doesn't run like it used to. I have owned this car for four years, and it now has 117000 miles on it. I went in to one of the automotive stores in my area, and after telling the gentleman that works there about my car, he sold me some spark plugs, and spark plug wires, because I have never replaced them for as long as I have owned the vehicle. I did and it still sputters and what not. So I went back in and they hooked up their machine to my car and printed off these codes:
P2401
P2419
P2405
P0036
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