Acura - Rsx :: 2003 - Brake Lights Permanently Stuck On
Jul 26, 2016
I recently came to notice that 3 of my 4 brake lights were permanently stuck on with the inner passenger's side light working normally. I removed the panel under the driver seat and found that a piece attached to the pedal arm that pushes in the brake light switch had broken. I replaced the broken piece and now all the brake lights except for the inner passenger's side light function normally, which no longer works at all when pushing the brake pedal*. Some additional info: When using the key fob to lock/unlock the doors, all the lights function normally.
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Daughters 03 mountaineer. Have changed the brake light switch, bulbs and checked the only fuse I could find for the brake lights. She can drive it by doing the override under the column but still has no brake lights and is an accident waiting to happen. What else to check? Is there a relay or another fuse I could be missing? I'm lost.
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I got my Alternator replaced last week. Last night, I hit a very small bump, not even large enough to really cause me to slow down, and as soon as I did, my battery and brake lights came on. My RPM gauge also jumped around and eventually went to 0 until I stopped and put the car in park. (The bump might just be a coincidence who knows). So after all this happened, I turned off my car, tried to restart and got nothing. Sometimes I get a click, sometimes 2 clicks up to 4-6 consecutive clicks. Every few times I won't even get a click, just a slight attempt to start, then the car dies, then 2 seconds later all my lights and radio etc. come back on. My problem here is a few things:
1. I've been told it could be the starter. If it's the start, those dashboard lights shouldn't have came on right? just the STARTING portion of the car.
2. I've been told it could be the battery.
Well If i got my alternator tested and Advance said it was working, Why would my battery be dead? And if it WAS dead, wouldn't my lights have went dim or something else happen to the car?
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Following a storm last week, my car had a completely discharged convenience battery. The carpet in the driver's (RHS) footwell was soaked, and I vacuumed out about a pint of water. The right front sunroof drain was blocked, so I massaged the duckbill valve and got this working again. The carpet is now completely dried out.
I fully recharged the battery using a mains charger, but two days later it was flat again. I ran a VCDS scan, found and reset lots of fault codes for low battery. I then discovered that the trunk lights were not turning off when the trunk lid closed, hence the battery discharge. The measuring block for trunk lights shows 0% however. The power trunk lid operates correctly from all switches and the remote.
All other vehicle functions seem to be working OK. I have removed the fuse for the trunk lights temporarily, but obviously would like to get them working properly again.
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Following a storm last week, my car had a completely discharged convenience battery. The carpet in the driver's (RHS) footwell was soaked, and I vacuumed out about a pint of water. The right front sunroof drain was blocked, so I massaged the duckbill valve and got this working again. The carpet is now completely dried out.
I fully recharged the battery using a mains charger, but two days later it was flat again. I ran a VCDS scan, found and reset lots of fault codes for low battery. I then discovered that the trunk lights were not turning off when the trunk lid closed, hence the battery discharge. The measuring block for trunk lights shows 0% however. The power trunk lid operates correctly from all switches and the remote.
All other vehicle functions seem to be working OK. I have removed the fuse for the trunk lights temporarily, but obviously would like to get them working properly again.
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MY friends's 2001 Passat has an issue. Brake lights work fine when the headlight switch is turned off. When she turns the headlight switch ON, her brake lights are stuck on. Left, right, and center. What could this be? Seems like maybe a fuse or brake light switch.
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4 days ago, my '04 Chevy Aveo (89,300 miles) would not shift out of park and no brake lights were coming on. I had to use the shift lock release to start the car in neutral, and I took it to dealer. Dealer replaced the brake switch. One day later, the problem returned. I took back to dealer, and they showed me that the light blue "15" stop fuse (the right column of fuses, second one down) had blown. They replaced. It again worked for a day, and the problem came back. Each time I put a new 15 fuse in now, it works temporarily, but now fries either immediately or within an hour. In order to drive, I still have to use the shift lock release, which isn't great, because it means I have to drive without brake lights.
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2000 Integra with 95k miles in an excellent condition - used pedal jack when parked
I had to make a left turn and ramp up so put it on D3 - I pressed the accelerator and when I felt the speed could be higher (I am not comfortable to drive up the hills) so I must have pressed hard on the accelerator. It then responded
Not sure what was happening, I started breaking and steering - still around 30mph, guessing - it was not a wild drive.
Still not satisfied, I moved to gear 2 and stopped the car. Realized the car is still pulling, turned off the engine and realized the accelerator pedal is stuck.
I pulled it and it has been fine! With the engine off, I pushed the pedal hard and it always bounced back. Not sure that the getting in and out the pedal jack had been interferring with the accel pedal. It also looks like the engineers did a good job that with the stuck accel pedal, I did not end up in a wild drive - I had to brake and move the tranny to 2 but was able stop it - it was a mild up the hill, but unsure if it played a big role.
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I am the owner of a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS. It has approx 35,700mi to date.
Ive been apart of the forum for quite some time now. Ive been having an issue for a couple of months now with my Traction Control light being stuck on and intermittent flashes of the Brake light (as if parking brake were engaged) and ABS Lights simultaneously.
I'VE ALREADY HAD THE BRAKE SWITCH FAILURE RECALL PERFORMED. When i was having problems shifting and with my cruise control.
This all started this past winter during a bad snow and ice storm we had here in St. Louis, MO. I was on my way to work and the roads were slick with ice and snow. I was traveling no more than 15-20mph on a freeway and as i was approaching a light it suddenly changed to red and i had to slam on my brakes and make a swift right turn in order to avoid hitting anyone in the intersection. Ever since that moment, I've been stuck with these lights on in my dash.
Let me start this by saying I've done a couple of mods to my car. Hids, aftermarket remote start (professionally), aftermarket stereo, amps, new speakers all around, led lights inside, cup holder mod and led tail lights. That's all of my electrical mods.
Ive taken my car to the dealer several times for this problem. They tried hooking my car up to their code machine and they said the car wasn't communicating with machine and it was the first time they've seen something like this before.
They tried pinning the problem on my alarm and stereo. (as they usually do) They said it was a corroded ground. The dealer cleaned that up and said that fixed the problem. In actuality, it didnt. The issue still was there.
Ive had both the alarm and stereo removed to see if this were the cause my issues. NO...the problem still exists.
Here's a pic ....
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Quick 4x4 always on... Is there a way to permanently lock the front wheels? My than ferry case works to engage the front axle. But the wheels are not engaging. I have put enough money in to it and would like to permanently lock the front wheels.
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My 2012 F250 6.7 once again (third time in 2k miles) got stuck in park with no brake lights or traction control. I found that removing the shroud from the steering wheel allowed me to manually activate the solenoid and get into gear but could only drive in manual shift mode.
Something is causing the brake switch fuse to blow. When I replace the fuse all is well for maybe 1k miles then it happens again! After the second time I replaced the brake switch thinking it was the cause but no deal. It happened a third time. The dealer who fixed it the first time could not find the cause.
This is frustrating and downright dangerous! What in the circuit could be causing the short?
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I have a 2001 Acura MDX automatic transmission that at least once a day when driving around town, will suddenly loose power, RPM's seem to be stuck at 2000, and then surge up to 5000 with no forward motion. When I try to accelerate again, the car "stumbles" forward until the RPM's settle back down to between 1-3 and the car drives normal. This is creeping me out...any thoughts? Valves have been adjusted.
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I have an electrical problem with the rear brake lights on my 03 Camry. The fuse keeps blowing the instant I step on the brake. I replace it and it blows immediately. So now i can't drive it because I have no brake lights. I'm thinking there is a short somewhere, where to start my troubleshooting?
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I've got a 2001 f150 supercrew 4x4 with the 4.6. I plugged in trailer lights and now I have no brake, turn signal, or hazard lights. I've checked fuses and none are blown.
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My 2003 Escape 2.0L has the "door ajar" light on the dash permanently lit, including with the engine off and key removed, which means that I have to switch the courtesy light on and off by hand or else it stays on.
Obvious first guess is a fault with a door or tailgate switch, but they all look OK to a visual inspection. Are there any multimeter tests I can do? Any specific voltages, resistances to look for?
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This is my second time posting for the same issue on a 2003 3.5L with 120,000+ miles. Rear driver side brake caliper is stuck again. I have replaced both rear calipers after the driver side stuck a few months back. So most likely the first time was caused by something else.
What else could be causing this? Brake line, master cylinder, or other? I did not replace any brake lines the last time this happened. Just calipers and pads.
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having problem w/ 98 f-150. first truck stuck in park. figured out how to get around that (turn key 1 position, shift to neutral, start vehicle, then engage transmission). but no brake lights! I have turn signals, driving lights, hazards, etc in rear. I disconnected harness from brake light switch. there are 2 leads, 1 hot, 1 not. i jumped them and no brake lights. i tested the switch and it functions properly (it's reconnected now). i changed my bulbs in tail lights. I unplugged the solenoid (which is impossibly located behind/beside steering column). this allowed me to shift like an old truck (without having to brake first), but doesn't solve my lack of brake lights (i've reattached the solenoid harness to remind me of my problems).
i am putting my money on a broken wire somewhere between the brake light switch (b/c that was good) and the solenoid (i am not hearing that faint click when i step on brake). but a broken wire should work by accident some of the time (unless cut cleanly and completely). there is a green wire with red stripe leaving the brake light switch and 3 wires at the solenoid harness (1 green and maybe a smaller gauge than those at the switch and 2 others which i don't recall their colors). Ford service manager doesn't think it's the solenoid but wasn't otherwise useful except to say, "hey, why don't you bring it in to me." What to look for before i plunk down for someone to perform what I already have before completing the job!
can i splice a wire from something (? brake light switch?) to something (?wire in solenoid harness?) or does that "electronic signal" get processed somewhere else first?
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I recently had my fuel gauge stuck on full and at around the same time, my left rear brake light doesn't work. I do have LED brake lights in the rear so I am not sure if that changes anything. I thinking something with a ground or is it possible that these aren't even related.
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The "emissions" light on the dash of my 2002 Acura RSX lights up when I run the heater in winter months. It only comes on when the heater is on. It is never on in the summer, and even when it is warmer outside and I have the heater on, it will turn off. The gas cap is not loose, and the car is otherwise in great condition. Is this something I need to worry about?
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1987 Acura Integra 165k... After parking the car, and turning off the engine, and locked the car, the brake light continue to stay on for about 10mins - then goes off on its on.What seems to be the problem - easy to fix?
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I have replaced the brake light switch two times - still nothing going on with the brake lights. The turn signals and taillights work fine (replaced all the bulbs anyway). For what it's worth, what made me start this repair was that the third light was coming on, but not the brake lights.
That is when I went to the dealer and bought a new brake light switch. After installing that, the third light didn't work...so, I downgraded what I had to begin with, it seems. Thought maybe I had done something to break it when I installed it, which is why I bought another one. As far as I'm concerned, I followed the installation instructions meticulously, yet still nothing.
I have also pulled all the fuses in the access panel by driver's door and inspected them.
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