The "emissions" light on the dash of my 2002 Acura RSX lights up when I run the heater in winter months. It only comes on when the heater is on. It is never on in the summer, and even when it is warmer outside and I have the heater on, it will turn off. The gas cap is not loose, and the car is otherwise in great condition. Is this something I need to worry about?
View 10 RepliesProblem #1: So I've noticed a clunking when I go over sharp bumps or uneven road conditions (think roots under the pavement) at low speeds, such as in a parking lot. The noise is only under the front left tire well area, and the car drives smooth and great otherwise. Is it a bad joint? The closest dealership is over an hour away, so I want to make sure I'm driving there with a real reason. The MDX has about 130K, transmission is great, and new timing belt, so I'm scared it's some sort of axle/joint problem...
Problem #2: The check emissions light came on about two days ago. I have filled up since, but it hasn't gone away. There is not a smell from the exhaust, and there is no rattling. Gas mileage hasn't changed one bit either! What could it be?? The car has been restarted quite a few times, but the light comes on each time.
I have a new to me 07 MDX with 82k miles. Exactly at 1 mile over the 30day/1200 mile used car warranty the Check Engine Light illuminated along. The NAV screen showed an emissions code P0401. I really don't notice any symptoms in running at all. Anyway a few drives (on/off) and it turns off for four days. It happened again with same code. Again few drives it went off. It seems to happen when driving easy. It gets great MPG in mixed driving on average (20MPG) which is far better than its rating. Should I wait till it stays on steady before I address this?
View 3 RepliesOur emissions light lit up on the dash board of our Elantra. I took the car into the garage we have been taking it to for 5 years. The new office manager said we need front brake pads and new rotor and a new AC belt. and then they discovered the rear o2 sensor needs to be replaced.
View 9 RepliesThis morning I went to drive my car and the check engine light, along with the D4 light on the dash went on. The D4 light started blinking. When I drove the car, it felt really heavy like it was not shifting right. There was also a bad smell coming from the hood. I took it to get the code read and it was P0758. There seems to be something wrong with the transmission and I am just wondering how much it will cost, and if it is worth it. The car is in great shape, I just had the timing belt changed.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 7.3 4x4 truck. The 4x4 will not engage, the lights on the dash don't even light up. I took it to the ford dealer and they said the fuse box and gem module. (800.00 to fix). They said the windshield leaked and shorted then out, so I needed to be replaced? I have replaced the windshield and fixed the leak, my question is the fuse box and gem a plug and play and do different years work?
View 5 Replies1987 Acura IntegraI noticed that the pop up headlight dash warning light intermittently comes on when the engine is running. Now Battery light (charging light) and pop up headlight warning lights are coming on simultaneously (still intermittent) when the engine is running.
Battery is new. Headlights (and pops up) are working. High beam is working. Parts store used their meter to test the battery and alternator - it passed - however, their equipment initially did not detect the battery voltage - I was told that it needs to be repaired - but when the engine was running, he was able to do the test - it passed all the test.
There is a separate switch to just to pop the headlight - when I push the switch, it makes the sound as if it begins to pop but there is a hesitation and then it fully pops it up (only issue that I can observe) - whereas when I turn the headlight on, it properly pops it up and turns the headlight on - whether engine is running or not.
Started up my 6 cylinder 2005 Ford Escape with 187,000 miles on the engine this morning and after 5 minutes a check engine light came on and the car shut off on its own. I restarted the car and then I got a dash message "Service Emissions" and the car shudders a little when driving. I am going to the autoparts store later for a OBD scanner code check.
View 1 Replies'02 TB; 120,000 miles. When I have our TB running the dash lights will come on and the guages will go to zero. Then they will go off and the gauges will return to normal and back again. It acts like the key was shut off though it wasn't. The engine is still running. Now, after reading several posts here I'm thinking the ignition switch is bad. Is there a way to check the ignition switch before I buy a new one?
View 13 RepliesI have a 2002 Accent...Won't start....When I turn the key on...none of the idiot lights come on...It will turn over like crazy...but nothing....Have checked all fuses and relays... Then all of a sudden the lights will all come on and it starts...ran it for awhile drove it around a bit...shut it off...then tried to restart and it did...ok then 2 days later went to start it..and same thing...No idiot lights came on....and of course will not start..Someone mentioned to me it might be the ignition switch itself that might be causing the problem?
View 3 RepliesJust picked up a pretty nice 2002 sc430 today. On the drive home I realized all the dash backLights are not lighting up. However the The radio and climate control unit do have a dim backlight working but is stuck at one level of illumination.
Like most cars the all dash lights should be very bright during the day and when you turn on the headlights they should all Dim down. ..... Not on this SC.
Makes no difference what position the headlight switch is in....Nothing changes or lights up
and
The little Dimmer does nothing either when turned all the way one way or the other.
Fuses? I am not sure what to try.
I have a 2002 Subaru Outback Wagon. In May this year the OEM battery finally wore out, I was feeling poor so I bought a used battery from the local auto parts store. 2 months later, one day my car started chugging like it was having trouble starting and sounded like the battery was dying but then did start. Later that day it wouldn't start at all. Wouldn't turn over at all, but dash lights came on with key turn. Tried to jump it, wouldn't jump start. I bought a refurbed starter, had it put it, car starts.
A week later the same thing happened. Won't jump, no turn over, dash lights on when key turn. Had the battery tested, it was "good". Had the starter pulled, it was bad, put another refurbed starter in. Also replaced cables to the battery, and the clamp things that go on the cables to the battery. A week later, same thing, won't turn over, dash lights on with key turn. I was in the Costco parking lot when it happened this time, and got the tire mechanic to try to jump it. It jumped but was chugging like crazy and smoke came out of somewhere. The mechanic said he really thought it was a bad battery, that it sounded like the motor was trying to run off the alternator. I bought a new battery from Costco, and returned the used one to the parts store. When the used one was taken out, the mechanic said he could smell battery acid and it might have had a bad cell.
Now, the car will start when the engine is cold, but when I drive somewhere and it gets nice and hot (I live in Florida), it will not start again unless it is completely cold, or I get a jump. At least it will jump start now without a problem. I have had a mechanic use his little tool to check for computer codes, and of course there are none. I need to solve it not starting at all unless it is stone cold. My question is, what do you think is wrong?
2002 Golf TDI . I am having a no start problem. I get all of the dash lights, the battery is fine, and there is just nothing when the key is turned. Our 2002 Golf TDI, now, of course, almost 15 years old. The dealership detects nothing through a computer read, and I'm down to the starter, relay and neutral switch as possibilities. The battery is just 3 years old, and we are at just 68K.
Can a neutral switch be tested for proper operation? Can the electrical system by tested for a starter motor or relay fault? The dealership maintains I need to await failure before they can do anything. We've had previous VW electrical problems w/this car - several dead batteries, complete on-board computer failure after having the car several months, way back when, and that part has been fine since then. I sold my last VW, a 1974 Karmann-Ghia Coupe, a few years ago, and these under-the-hood diesel setups are beyond me.
I replaced the factory head unit with a aftermarket radio. While making adjustments my battery died, I jumped my battery and now I don't have any dash lights. I found 3 blown fuses that I have replaced, however the only lights that don't work is the dash lights. I replaced the headlight switch and the dash lights are still not working?
View 6 RepliesThis 2002 ford escape 3.0 xlt 4x4. on the dash you have your transmission #s laid out . the #1 seems to always be highlighted in a square. but as you move the shifter to whatever gear you want there is another square that highlights the selected gear. Also, before when you would have it in D it would flash back and forth from D to 2 just the lights not the transmission.
View 1 RepliesI own a 2000 V6 Passat with 68K miles. For the last 3 months, I have had check engine & emissions workshop lights. During the last month, the car will not start at random times (although never first thing in the morning, only after it has been recently driven); this will happen 1 or 2 times a day. After waiting 1-2 minutes, the car will usually start on the 2nd try; it has always started by the 3rd try. Once started, the car runs fine, although there is initially a strong gas smell. I took the car to a local mechanic, who changed the air mass meter, which had no effect. The mechanic now wants to change the O2 sensors. Unfortunately, I do not know the codes. By the way, the car had an emissions workshop light in 12/04: the light went off when the dealer did work under a "WE recall", which I believe means that it replaced the secondary air vacuum line.
View 7 RepliesFuel pump went out, took it to garage to have it fixed. Got it back...now I have no headlights, taillights, or dash lights. I have turn signals, break lights, and brights. I've checked fuses under the hood, and on both sides. Replaced them all twice just to be sure. I've changed the ignition switch and the multi-function switch. I'm at a loss!
View 3 RepliesBought a 02 F250 5.4L a few weeks ago. i have replaced the coils and plugs, put in some fresh oil and some other minor things. Last weekend i drove over to my neighbors and back with no issues, until i went back out to start the truck an hour later.
The dash lights come on, but the engine wont start up. i hear a kind of whirring sound coming from a black canister under the hood on the drivers side. I cant use my code reader and I have pretty much exhausted my little piece of diagnostic knowledge. i originally thought it may have been a starter and got a fresh one ready to install but after thing about it i don't feel that's the issue.
I live in a very rural area and bringing it to a dealership would be a 150 mile round trip. What that black canister is? Why it won't start up?
I'm having an electrical problem that's resulting in the hazards, dash lights, radio and clock all constantly flashing on and off repeatedly. The car starts fine.
When investigating under the hood, I found a wire (pictures below) that wasn't connected to anything. I'm not sure if this is what's causing the problem, but I figured this was a good place to start.
What this wire is supposed to be attached to, and if it has anything to do with the flashing lights I'm experiencing?
What this wire is or possible causes of these flashing lights.
So I've got the exact same issue as the person who posted this: [URL] ....
Brake lights not working on Toyota Sienna 2005 XLE after emissions testing connected to the dataport. Went to the Toyota dealership this afternoon and it looks like a wiring issue. Also found out when the left blinker is engaged, it blows the 10A STOP fuse which then causes the ABS and VCS(?) lights to illuminate. What a mess....
Is the easiest way to fix this just to run a new wire to the affected area? The folks at the dealership seemed to suggest they were going to need to rip out all the interior to find the break in the circuit. Timing-wise, this problem starting happening right after I went to get emissions checked and they plugged a cable into the data port to pull emissions(?) and other data.
My hunch is that these two events are directly related but I don't have much knowledge of how things are wired up , what might have caused this problem.
Sometimes my 2002 Acura RL will start right up. I go shopping, come out a half hour later and it won't start. Has a new battery, no clicking noises. If I get it into neutral and push it the car will start. Would this be the starter motor, fuel lines, alternator? any guesses?
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