Acura - Rl :: 2000 - Won't Start Due To Intermittent Ignition Immobilizer?
Feb 14, 2011
my ignition immobilizer would not let me start my 2000 Acura several times during the past week. seems to start fine after a long cool down, or after sitting over night, but after a short trip it acts up, sometimes taking as long as 1 hour of repeated attempts to start. is this something as simple as changing the key fob battery, or is it in the ignition, or is it something in the shifter?? i only have 68k miles.
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My Saturn 2000 LS1 has an intermittent start up problem. If the ignition doesn't complete engagement, the engine shuts down. After a 12=15 minute wait, I try to start again and it engages and starts. (I think the computer has to be re-set, thus the delay)
Nothing shows up on code except "security" but no fix.
I noticed using the remote caused this problem more often. So no longer use it. Also, got a new ignition key which worked. We think it has something to do with "security" as the light comes on....intermittently. Is there a replacement part for the "security" system? Checking your site, no one else seems to have had this problem.
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I am having a very frustrating problem with my 2010 Honda Civic. I have had the anti-theft immobilizer unit activate on me 3 different times now, preventing me from starting the car. The electronics in the dash and the indoor lights turn on like normal, the engine will turn over fully as it tries to start (it will even start for a second before the immobilizer turns the ignition off if I put the key in and turn it fast enough). The first time it happened I did not realize it was the immobilizer and attempted to jump it, to no avail.
Had to go to the dealership to get a dummy key with no fob attached to it (there is a chip in the fob that communicates that the immobilizer unit recognizes (or doesn't recognize in this case) and a brake code to enter to get the thing started and back to the dealership. I left it there for them to service, only to have them call me a few hours later and say it started up just fine. The keys weren't the problem, the battery wasn't the problem, they couldn't tell me anything was wrong with it. They didn't charge me for it.
About a year passes and happens to me again last week, stranded in between Austin and San Antonio at a gas station. Tow home, get brake code from dealer, drop off at dealer for service, dealer calls back hours later and can't find anything wrong. Says they scanned the immobilizer unit but came up with nothing. Now it has happened again this morning, this time I got it towed straight there so they can see that the immobilizer has it locked down and maybe they can see something that wasn't apparent last time. I will find out tomorrow what they find.
Faulty Honda immobilizer unit?The battery in the key fobs shouldn't be the issue, as they unlock the car and function properly when the immobilizer unit hasn't thrown a fit. The battery may be the culprit, as I had to get a jump for leaving my hazards on for an afternoon, but I am doubting that since there is no dimming or other noticeable differences with the dash. The tech liaison theorized it might be an A/C relay but I don't have too much faith in his theories since they didn't get it right the first two times.
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I drive a 2006 Acura MDX with about 30000 miles on it. Today when I put the key in my ignition and attempted to start it I hear a clicking sound and the car wont start. The first time I attempted to turn on my headlights they did turn on. But then when I tried a few seconds later they would not. And I am seeing lights flickering on my dashboard as well. Do I have a dead battery or possibly something worse?
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Anyway my issue is, my car is turning over but wont start. I notice that it will only start when the yellow immobilizer light comes on and then goes off.
If I try to start when there is no immobilizer light it wont fire up.
I have to take out the key and wait 20 secs. When I turn back on the ignition and I see the yellow immobilizer light, I know it will start?? The immobilizer light goes out when the car starts. Whats up or should I continue what I'm doing...
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My 2000 Integra with 180,000 miles that never gave me a moment of trouble, stalled at a stop sign and hasn't started since. The info:
1. Engine cranks
2. Check Engine light comes on and then goes off after a few seconds (assume no error code)
3. Removing a spark plug shows spark
4. All fuses ok
5. Fuel pump relay ok
6. Removed fuel filter, turned on ignition (not trying to crank), fuel is coming through. There isn't much pressure, the fuel comes out like a water fountain. I assume the fuel pump is ok.
My thinking is that I either don't have spark or I don't have fuel. The spark looks ok. The fuel pump is moving fuel, I don't know if the pump can fail in a way that moves fuel but at too low a pressure. Is there another device, in the fuel delivery system, between the pump and the cylinder that I can check?
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Toyota verso 2001. Well the other night went out to car and noticed the inside lights were dim, battery was nearly flat. Now I had been out in car around 2 hours before. Recharged battery next day and car would not start.
Called brake down out. As he could not find anything wrong he tried to access the ecm. He could not connect to it. Later after he left, I checked every fuse and relay. Inc fuses on side of battery. All ok.
But the thing is the immobiliser LED is out even when the doors are shut and ignition off. So I suspect power to or the imobilizer ecu itself. I have checked ecm but that only shows engine ok. On computer. Other software I have only starts at 2004 so will not read immobilizer faults codes.
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I have had a problem compounding for about 6 months. The car will not even try to turn over. One day she works perfect, the next day the starter won't even try to turn over. Recently it has been getting worse, I continued to roll start when it wouldn't start and kept driving... but now it will not even try to start at all.
I thought perhaps it was the starter solenoid failing, but when I took it to advance auto parts they tested it and it was functioning just as it should. I then figured it could be the relay, but I can hear it clicking on. What else could it be? I know that the spark plug wires and distributor are all good because I have personally replaced them in the last 6 months. I found some things on the internet referring to a clutch pedal ignition lock switch. Any good way to test it?
[URL] .....
This would appear to be the switch that I have heard of. Can it cause a complete breach of power from the ignition switch to the starter when failing? I will check to make sure that power is not making it to the starter tomorrow... I'm just not that familiar with the circuit.
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I have a 2006 chevy impala LT 3.9 v6. Intermittently it wont start, crank it and it does nothing. All accessories work fine. Had a new starter installed, switched the relay it works on, had the ignition switch changed (twice), had the passlock system replaced, new keys for the ignition. Had the car to the dealer four, times. It doesn't happen all the time so it cant be reproduced at will. I just keep trying to start it and it will eventually start, it can be turning the key from 4 to 40 times. there's no rhyme or reason, some times it doesn't happen for 5 days, then it happens everyday for a week.. according to the dealer when they reproduced it it was the ignition switch. I doubt i got 2 bad ignition switches so i don't believe the error is being reported correctly. According to chevy they have no other reports of this..
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My husband's 2000 Ford Expedition has 94K miles and has been very well maintained. For the past few months, it's been having intermittent ignition problems. It'll start up fine for a few days, and then suddenly will need several-to-many attempts in order to start. Engine cranks every time, but won't catch. A few times it has taken over 10 min to get it started, and on occasion we've had to take our other vehicle instead. My son and I spent 15 creepy minutes in a dark parking lot the other night trying to get the truck to start.
It's in the Ford repair shop for the third time in a month now (last time was for 4 days), and the shop has been unable to replicate the problem enough to diagnose it. (The two times when it wouldn't start for them was when they DIDN'T have it hooked up to fuel-system test equipment.) I'm getting the sense they just want us to go away quietly and buy a new vehicle, but this one is the type we like...paid for! The problem occurs at various times of day...in various types of weather...when truck is hot, cold, or in between...gas tank at different levels...we can't find a common denominator, and all other diagnostics come back fine. The only slightly creepy suggestion the shop had was that maybe someone poured sugar in the gas tank..
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From a cold start, my '89 Civic starts and runs just fine - on a short trip. If I shut it off for 15 minutes and let it sit, then try to restart it, it cranks REALLY slow, misfires and won't start (like the cylinders are fighting each other). The battery's brand new, with plenty of juice. So the next time it happened, I disconnected all 4 plug wires - it cranked nice and fast, no resistance. This leads me to believe that the ignition timing is getting messed up once the engine warms up. I think the coil is fine, because the plugs are firing when the wires are connected. I'm thinking it could be a bad sensor that acts up when it gets warm. My prime suspect is the TDC/Crank Sensor. Does the TDC/Crank Sensor can fail when warm?
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Intermittent fuel pump problems in '96 Dodge ram resulted in new fuel pump 50,000 miles ago. Happened again 100 miles ago, so another new fuel pump. Now to start car must turn the ignition on several times before going to the start position. It appears the latest new pump may have defective one way check valve, so the pressure is depleting after turn off. Any favorite brand of fuel pump for the Dodge "pump in the gas tank" arrangement? Or solutions such as installing an external pump to do the work of pumping the fuel?
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I have had the keys recoded 9 days ago and two days ago they started playing up again, today I phoned the mob I paid $150 to recode my keys and they're going to look at it again (for a small fee) despite it their work being faulty, is there anything else that could be causing this? It will sometimes take 20+ turns of my key before it registers.
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I am not sure if this is an ignition or electrical problem. I have noticed that recently when I turn the car off, I am getting a buzzing/motor/whoosh type of sound coming from the ignition. I have never noticed this before, and I am not sure what might be causing this? The car is a 2007 Acura TSX with 111k miles on it. The car starts fine and turns off fine.
Is this something I need the dealer to look at, or is this no big deal? What was it? I am not be able to "duplicate it".
Also, it ONLY makes this sound when you turn the car off, not if you just turn the key to the pre-start position, and then turn it off.
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2004 Hyundai Accent
- Car won't start ...
- Remote key unlocks the car fine
- When put the key in the ignition and turn 'on' the little key indicator on the cluster doesn't come on.
- Left overnight and tried again in the morning, key indicator come on and then disappeared and wasn't able to start car.
- Key indicator now won't come on.
I spoke to mechanic and he said replace the immobilizer control module and reprogram key..
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My buddy with his 2000 jetta 2.0 that starts then stalls. The immobilizer light turns on and off again as it should during the starting process. Tried reprogramming the key with the 2 key programming process, also tried removing power from the battery and touching the leads together but these are fixes for the immobilizer but the light doesn't stay flashing. Is there anything I can try while waiting for my vag-com scanner to be delivered....
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The check engine light on my 1997 Integra (LS, 119K miles) has come on for the second time. Including background below.
Incident #1: Carin mid-June, the car sputtered or shook a bit when starting and the check engine light came on.The car had been sitting in the garage only about a day. Codes were P0303 (Cyl 3), 0304 (Cyl 4), P1399 (multiple misfire), P1300 (random Cyl misfiring). The p0303 code set at 1600 rpm & at 75F degrees. Misfire code set during warm-up. The shop performed block test (came negative). Compression tests show 1, 2, 4 at 200 psi & 3 at 190 psi. The shop replaced spark plugs & inspected plug wires & connectors as well. Valve clearance adjustments also were done. The shop cleared the engine light code.
Incident #2: Last week (early Aug), the car again sputtered & shook when trying to start (had been sitting in the garage for about 2.5 days). Showed signs of low or dead battery but started after cranking a few times. The check engine light came on again. Codes (checked at home using the jump method) indicate Cyl 1 & 3 misfire.
Will be taking to the shop for the diagnosis again but wondering if it is battery or ignition related; shop doesn't suspect the battery, however, I do sense that the battery 'feels' weak esp. when starting. New battery put in May. What could be going on?
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I have a 1989 Acura Integra standard shift. Without any pattern, the car won't start. All the lights come on when I turn the key but there is no sound indicating it trying to turn over. If I leave it alone for a little while, it will often start. By the way, this never happens in the morning even in below freezing temperatures.
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When I insert the key, there is current to the dashboard and the steering wheel moves into position. When I try to start the car, the dashboard is illuminated- the radio comes on etc- but the starter does not engage all. It's totally quiet. I remove the key, insert the key and try again. Sometimes the starter engages, sometimes not. When it cranks, it starts right up. The battery is good. We had the ignition switch changed out a while back, but it didn't really improve the situation.
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Over the past few weeks my 2000 Jetta GL has been occasionally been grinding on start up. The car starts fine, but it sounds like the starter doesn't realize that the engine is running and it makes that oh so lovely grinding noise for an additional half a second or so. It doesn't do it every time, just when it feels like being ornery. Is the starter going, or what?
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Have 2000 Ford XLT Extended Cab 4x4 with 5.4. It will not start. Put the ignition in on position and can't hear the fuel pump running. Fuse Okay, Relay OK. Does this year have A Fuel Pump Driver Module? If so, where is it located? I know where they are located on 2004 and up but not mine. If I have to change out Fuel pump, is it easier to pull the tank or the Bed?
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