Acura - Rl :: 1996 - Disable ABS Because Of Buzzing Noise When Starting Car
Sep 16, 2011
I have a 1996 Acura RL 3.5 with the premium package, if that makes any difference. When I start the car, i hear a buzzing sound which sounds like it is coming from the ABS system. The ABS light comes on continuously until the buzzing stops, then turns off. I was told by the mechanic that Honda no longer makes the system to flush the ABS system, which would likely fix my problem but instead said I would need to put in a new ABS pump and put in a refurbished accumulator-cost $1600+, more if I put in all new parts.
I want to disable it because I can't afford that sort of repair and the brakes work fine with the ABS. The mechanic said they would do it but it is "illegal" for them to do so. I have the manual for the under the hold fuse box, it has 4 fuses for ABS listed. ABS Unit, ABS B2, ABS B1 and ABS Motor. Which ones do I pull and is there anything else I would need to do to disable it.
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1987 Acura Integra Automatic, 160k I have been noticing - mostly for every start (there are a few in between that did not have that sound).
When starting, a loud sound (some what unbearable) heard and was hesitant and then the engine starts. Once started it runs fine. It is not the usual sound that the ignition makes when going bad.
What seems to be the issue? Right after I drained and filled AT fluid, it heard the first time. I have been doing AT fluid since nearly 10yrs ago with Honda fluid. I only did drain and fill and it went smoothly. In 2007, the tranny was replaced. After starting, the car runs smoothly - it is only when starting or just before engine try to start. Batt and alternator tests fine.
It hardly did it today - I might have once heard a girding sound just before starting.
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My 1994 Acura Integra makes a buzzing noise exactly between 3000 and 3500 RPMS. It sounds kind of like the sound a circular saw would make cutting wood. It only happens when I am accelerating through that range. Also, sometimes after driving for a while, it doesn't last as long and the noise stops around 3300 RPMS. I've checked the heat shield and it seems to be fine so I don't think its that. What this could be caused by?
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I am not sure if this is an ignition or electrical problem. I have noticed that recently when I turn the car off, I am getting a buzzing/motor/whoosh type of sound coming from the ignition. I have never noticed this before, and I am not sure what might be causing this? The car is a 2007 Acura TSX with 111k miles on it. The car starts fine and turns off fine.
Is this something I need the dealer to look at, or is this no big deal? What was it? I am not be able to "duplicate it".
Also, it ONLY makes this sound when you turn the car off, not if you just turn the key to the pre-start position, and then turn it off.
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I have a 1996 Acura Integra with manual transmission. It has only 113K miles on it. I put on only 6K to 7.5K miles a year. I have owned the car since it was new & have always changed the oil & oil filter myself. Until about 3 years ago I changed the oil & filter 4 times a year--roughly about every 2K miles. Three years ago I reduced the number of oil changes to 3 times per year. Recently it was suggested to me that even that was too many and that I should change the oil & filter every 6 months. To be honest I am not comfortable with that but I also realize that my discomfort may simply come from habit. I have changed the oil & filter every 2K on every car that I have owned since I was a teenager. I should tell you that I am 80 years old and live on my savings & a pension. To replace this car would cost me between $25K to $30K so it is to my advantage to keep the car on the road for as long as I can. In short will I be doing any harm to the engine by changing the oil every 6 months?
A second question that I have about oil is that it is becoming increasingly more & more difficult to buy a high quality brand of conventional motor oil. When I shop I have been finding that the better engine oils, Castrol GTX, for example, do not offer much of a selection when it comes to conventional motor oil. In fact conventional motor oil is their cheapest oil. Most of the varieties of oil that they offer are blends of conventional motor oil & synthetic oil. I have heard conflicting statements about switching from conventional oil to synthetic oil. Some say it is dangerous to do and that it should not be done while others say that it does no harm. But what about switching to a blend of conventional oil & synthetic oil? Will that cause any damage to the engine?
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Have a 1996 Chevy Tahoe (305) Engine having engine cranking problems. It makes a slight grinding noise when normally starting. But sometimes it the noise is loud and seems to lock or seize during cranking. I tried shimming it without success, the gear even stuck in the flywheel. I had the starter rebuilt when the bendix stopped engaging the flywheel. I bought this PU second hand and the flywheel cover had been removed as if this truck has had existing starter problems. Also the flywheel teeth look ok.
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96 Acura with a weird habit. On cold mornings, after a few minutes it starts this thing where it revs up about 500 or so, then back down. It does this while parked or when driving. When driving, it still revs up, but also revs down - like it's putting in extra resistance or something; have to give it extra gas when it does that. This usually stops once it warms up. Also, it runs a fair bit higher until warmup, then settles back down to 'normal.'
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I have a 2000 Acura TL with 225,224 miles, runs very good. Recently it has not been starting all the time. Just grinds and not turn over. If I wait a while then try again, it will start and run very good. Mechanic could not duplicate problem. Checked everything he could think of even all the computers, could not find anything wrong. What to do now? I read that someone had the same problem with a 1995-or 98 (?) with their Acura Integra and the dealer could not resolve the problem.
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I'm looking at a cousins 1996 integra that has some issues. It's a hand me down vehicle that has little maintenance. Probably regular oil changes and that's it. It has been overheated once in the past and uses coolant now. Coolant slowly disappears and she adds coolant to rad when it starts to get too hot. So likely, more overheat episodes. What are the chances just changing the head gasket will resolve the coolant loss?
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I have a 1989 Acura Integra standard shift. Without any pattern, the car won't start. All the lights come on when I turn the key but there is no sound indicating it trying to turn over. If I leave it alone for a little while, it will often start. By the way, this never happens in the morning even in below freezing temperatures.
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I have an Acura 2000 TL. My car all of a sudden stopped starting. I called AAA and the tow truck driver did some repair like thing. The car started after this. He told me, there was a problem with the remote starter or security alarm issue. After that the car starts but the immobilizer light is completely off. It gives P1607 OBDII code. When I looked under the dash, I saw a black button and pressed on it. It gave some clicks and nothing happened. I pressed on it and turn the ignition switch on and off a couple of times and nothing happened. I pushed on the button while pressing on the brake peddle and released within 2 seconds etc. The car has a Code Alarm remote start with two button fob and it was disabled. I don't know whether the AAA driver enabled it causing the immobilizer bypass to actuate to have the P1607 code. The car starts ! What can I do to get the Code Alarm remote start to disable it?
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I have a 2009 Acura TSX that I bought used ~85,000 miles on it. It has been inspected 5 times and each mechanic says the car is basically new in perfect condition. However, it has an extremely difficult time starting after sitting in cold temperatures for more than about 12 hours. If I drive it every 8 hours or so it is fine. Everything has been checked repeatedly; alternator, wiring, battery connection etc. .. . The battery is only 3 months old.
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So I have a 2000 Buick, and it generally starts. However, twice now at random times the car hasn't started. It doesn't turn over, but makes a buzzing sound. The strange thing is, that usually after leaving it alone for a few hours, it will start as though there are no problems. I assume it's some kind of electrical issue, but I would love some input on the possible problems with my car.
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My 2001 4.6L F-150 has been sitting on the driveway, used once every 2 weeks or so for the last 3 yrs. I came to start it a few days ago and it kept turning over but not starting. The key security chip is working, battery is charged, all plugs are firing, fuel pump fuse and relay check good. When I turn the key to ON, sometimes I hear the fuel pump priming, other times it doesn't. The times it does prime, the truck fires right up.
The times it doesn't prime, engine won't start. When the pump does prime, and while the engine is running, the pump makes a noticeable buzzing sound, much louder than normal. When the pump primes. fuel pressure measures at 42psi in the ON position, 36psi with engine running, and 46psi with engine running and vacuum hose removed. I believe all these are within specs.
My question is this: Is it safe to assume that the pump is going bad and will eventually fail completely? My second question is (and I know this can be debated til the end of time) should I get the Motorcraft or aftermarket? I have Airtex, Spectra, Carter, and Delphi available locally.
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I have a 1996 honda accord. I recently took it into a shop because it wouldn't start and was leaking oil. They replaced the battery cable and told me I needed an axle. I then have an oil leak, and my car will still not start. I take it back, ok, they said I need an oil pan. I get the oil pan and had to take the car back 2 more times because it was still leaking oil.
The one time they put on a gasket and the next an oil drain plug. Two days later I get home and my oil light is on. There is oil all over my driveway and it is leaking everywhere. Bigger than any previous leak. They pay to have my car towed to the shop and call me the next day to say the seal fell out and this is a common problem with the 96 accords. I need a timing belt kit. They told me there was no way to notice this oil leaking from this component. Is this an accurate depiction, or am I getting the run around?
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I have a '96 Chevy Silverado that twice (in about as many months) has had some trouble starting. When I turn the key the engine starts to crank, then there is a loud pop and the engine stops. When I crank it again the engine will start, although more slowly than usual. What could be wrong?
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i have a 96 slt v8 dakota im trying to fix myself. it wont start. put new batt. new starter motor. it just clicks engine wont turn everything in truck is working but when i turn the key to start its just clicks and my radio losses power. so i took out radio and still wont start...
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The Subaru as 260k miles on it and I live in Georgia. When I attempt to start the car, it turns over and sounds like the engine catches and then dies out without getting over 200 rpms or so. Its a manual and I made sure the floor mat isn't impeding the clutchsensor.
The car has been doing this the past three days and finally today after driving around for a few hours and multiple times shutting the engine off with at least two start attempts before it fires, I get home and shut off the car.
I then attempt to restart it about two hours later and after 7 tries, all with the car sounding like the the engine has fired but not yet fully running , then the engine dies. I would push start it but am parked on an uphill slope.
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We have a 2006 Acura MDX, 96K miles, well maintained. It has started making a disturbing scraping/grinding/humming noise from under the car, driver's side. It's random, sporadic, usually for 3 to 5 seconds; doesn't seem to be related to speed, braking or turning; sometimes barely perceptible, sometimes very loud. It drives fine. Wheel bearing maybe?
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I have a 2002 Acura 3.5RL with 129,000 miles. I have a noise that sounds like rusty springs when I get in the car, during driving it and when I get out. It sounds like it's beneath the front seats of the car and very loud. In the past (this has been going on for 4 or 5 years), it would go away after a few miles of driving. Now it is not going away and there's even noise sometimes when I brake. It's been over a month since it started this time. Before when I took it to the dealer, the noise had stopped by the time I got there. I left it and they drove it the next day and the noise was not there. Now I live in an area where there is no Acura dealer and I'm very concerned because the sound is constant and loud.
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Whenever it rains and I have my car in drive (idling at say an stop sign or intersection), I can hear my car chirp. If I give it gas or shift it to neutral, the chirping sound goes away. When I have the AC on, the car will chirp even in neutral, but will not chirp when I give it gas. What could be wrong? Could it be a pulley?
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