2006 Acura MDX w/160k miles running like new but cabin heat levels began to fall off. Service at dealer (who also performed all vehicles scheduled service) revealed 2 cracked cast iron cylinders in the motor allowing coolant to leak by and not reach the heater core. Leaking coolant fried two catalytic converters and remedy is a used engine replacement and new converters.
View 18 RepliesI have a 2008 Camry Hybrid and the rear muffler heat shield has come loose and is about to fall off. The car is running great and has had no real issues.
View 6 RepliesMy 2002 chevy venture does not provide any heat from the cabin air system..The engine reaches proper driving temperature normally.Can't heat the cabin or get any modulation of cabin temp when using A/C.
View 2 RepliesI took the 2008 Santa Fe Limited into the dealer for no control over heat in cabin. It turned out to be a air mixing valve actuator failure. Since the car had 60714 miles on it I needed to convince the dealer, since this is a common failure, that Hyundai should stand behind it. Since it failed before I brought it in, it failed before the 60k mark. The dealer supplied the part and I the labor.
Before I brought it in I replaced the thermostat. An old school problem fix for insufficient heat. That did nothing. Upon disassembly i found it very difficult to get at. You need a lot of patients to do this task and reversible wrists and elbows due to its location.
Also, in looking up the control system in the Factory Repair Manual I discovered this Limited heat/AC panel has an internal self-diagnosis that you can trigger. It did indeed indicate a faulty actuator. The dealer was not aware of the self-diagnosis facility having not been taught it by Hyundai during training.
Seems below 20 my car cannot defrost the windows or heat the cabin. It has been 0-10 the last couple days here in SE WI. The coolant temp gauge is straight up right in the middle. Some how coolant isn't flowing through the heater core. Could this be a design failure? It doesn't seem to matter what settings are on dash. I have tried with ac on and off, recirculation on and off, full defrost on, fan on all speeds, have also tried a combination of cracked windows open.
Are other people experiencing this as well? Is a call to the dealer in order?
For ref car is 2014 tdi se with 34,000miles.
Our prius is 13 yrs old and the fan of the heat/ac broke. We had it replaced at the dealer and also had them replace the cabin airfilter. Since then, whenever we use the fan (heat or AC), we've been getting fumes in the car, a gas smell (even when there are no cars in front of us, so it's not from other cars). We brought it back to the dealer twice and they have not fixed it. They found a hole in the exhaust system and replaced the muffler etc. My questions:
1) Is there a way to measure the air quality in the cabin and find out what fumes are coming in and how dangerous they are?
2) What could it be and how can we finally get it fixed.
My 2007 Prius has stopped producing cabin heat; the blower fan is working. I have no dash warning indicators. I am in an area where the are no Toyota dealers and need to drive 160 miles to home and shop. It has just turned cold. Why and if I am ok to drive to the shop?
View 1 Replies2009 Impala, 6 cyl., 32k miles, with the engine warm and running below 1000 rpm I only get cool air entering the cabin. As soon as I rev up to 1000 rpm and above heat enters the cabin. The coolant level was a little low and I added about 2 cups. I haven't driven it since adding the coolant but I doubt that is an issue. Since the day I bought this vehicle (at about 16k miles) I could detect a whine sound coming from the engine compartment at start up. This may have something to do with this problem, but until just recently the heater did work fine. The A/C works fine. Thinking maybe a water pump?
View 4 RepliesI just bought a used 98 Acura 3.0CL. I've noticed that when the heat is cranked, it doesn't blow hot at all. I did some quick research and came up with two answers thus far; check the antifreeze coolant and that I may need to replace the heater control valve. Am I "warm" on the area?
View 19 RepliesI have been lately feeling that the engine heat is penetrating to the foot area of the cabin even when heater or blower is not running. Engine is running at normal temp as I monitor temp gauge all the time when I am driving.
Pulled out the carpet around clutch and surrounding foot area to see what is going on and found out 2 heater core pipes are running hot and dissipating a quite bit of heat when the blower is in off and cabin temp controller is in cold position. Is this normal, I believe when the temp controller is in cold position there should not even be hot coolant running to heater core from the engine? Could heater tap or temp control valve that stops engine hot coolant running to cabin/heater core be faulty? If so where are they located?
My 2010 Ford Explorer experienced a radiator leak between the radiator and the plastic tank on the top, so I replaced that, we were still not experiencing any heat while driving it. I watched a couple of videos on how to "burp" the system, to no avail.
Next I replaced the thermostat, and "burped" it again, still no heat, so I drained and flushed the system yet again and still no heat. What else is there to check? I have the Haynes manual and did the flush and fill the way the book said and still have no heat I am about to lose my mind.
The blend doors sound like they are opening. They are not clicking like they are broken.
The heater is on full the entire time, I have not rotated the dial since I started this.
I unplugged one of the hoses on the heater core and blew into it, the hose was bone dry and I blew into the end of the hose and fluid came out of the cabin side metal tube. I also plugged a water hose into the tube and ran water through it to make sure it wasn't clogged, it is not. Front and rear heater cores.
Here is everything thing I have done from the start:
- Replaced Radiator.
- Replaced Thermostat.
- Drain and flush and re-service.
- Checked for leaks out of the water pump weep hole (none) and operation of pump, the upper hose gets hot and I feel water go through it when the thermostat opens.
- Check the radiator cap for pressure, it opens at 20psi and hold between 17-19psi. Replaced radiator cap anyway.
- Removed supply hose and ran coolant to purge trapped air.
- Ran water through the supply and return hoses on the heater core. On the front and rear.Check operation of heater control valve, works.
- Turned vehicle on while watching the exhaust pipe, a small amount of water on initial start up in the morning but no smoke.
Problems still occurring:
-Drive vehicle it over heats but returns to normal at idle I also get the coolant light that extinguishes when the car returns to idle. Even though it says its overheating the car has not pushed coolant into the expansion tank.
- The car will not take any more coolant, and only overheats after the fan comes on. And still no heat.
Should add, 4.0L engine, no oil in water after flush and the engine oil looks like engine oil not milky. Next step was a water pump???
My 2003 mountaineer 4.6L has front and rear heat. The issue is the heat in the front is barely warm and the heat in the back is poor. I have replaced the blend doors front and back and I'm sure they work as I can go from cold to barely warm and back again when I change the temperature setting.
I can feel hot fluid going from the engine to the front heater core and also down under the vehicle to the rear when the vehicle is warm. The return on the front is almost cold - so heat is being given up by the heater core in front, but it seems to me that if the return is almost cold, there's not enough hot coolant delivery. The overall heat is very poor in the cabin.
The coolant temperature gauge is steady and just below 1/2 with no erratic movements. I flushed the front heater core a couple years ago. Coolant has also been flushed last year. I know that the heat is underpowered in this vehicle, but it's a far cry from when it was new.
The dealer has tested every system for leaks and can't find any. They have changed the filters. They have contacted Nissan to see if there were other complaints of this nature and there weren't. They did a smoke test to detect any leaks that weren't visible to the naked eye and found nothing. This problem has not occurred at the dealership only when I'm driving but my husband, daughter, son-in-law and car pool buddy have all been in the car when the smell was evident. It's very strong and smells like you're in a gas station with the windows open.
View 2 Replies94 ford f150. I have replaced a leaking heater core and replaced all heater hoses, radiator hoses and water pump. I do not have any coolant leaks at this time. The problem is: when operating the vent or heat, there is a residual coolant smell. Is it possible that the vents were coated with coolant when it was leaking, thus still producing the smell? If so, is there anyway to clean out the vent system?
View 3 RepliesWhere the cabin air intake location is? I'm not talking about the air filter.
My 97 F150 has some sort of exhaust leak and it's coming into the cabin when the heat is on. I want to tape up the cabin air intake port but I don't know where it is. On later models, it's on the right passenger side near the cowl of the hood. Where is it on the 97?
First background: G2 car has 215,000 mi and recently got P1121 scan code, so I replaced the coolant control valve. that's when high coolant temp and no cabin heat started.
on CCV top nipple connected to hose that had a dot on it and hose goes under inverter cover on right, next nipple down went to hose slightly to left of first hose, bottom hose goes to thermus can. initially ran car in diag mode with high heat, no heat in cabin.
so I got a Autel 519 scan code reader and I see now that the only code is a P0505 (idle air control malfunction)
taking car down my road for short test run, I turn off cabin heat completely and watched the ECT. after a while it climbs to around 220, then while engine is running quickly goes to 245F then 260F. At that point in time (around 245F) the high temp indicator lights up, temp stayed at 260ish so I return home. With car in park, cabin heat off - the temp returns back down to 220F. if I rev the engine temp again climbs.
I have gone through all suggestions, open radiator bleed valve, manually 'pumped' coolant hoses, turned on/off high heat in cabin and finally with car off removed and jumped the CHS multiple times for about 20secs.
Have purged the coolant system over period of days and coolant appears to be full as level is near top of radiator cap, no bubbling, no gurgling.
However 2 mentioned problems continue... I am starting to suspect coolant thermostat but it would seem strange that it would go at precisely the same time as coolant control valve.
My 06 prius takes a very long time to provide heat to the cabin. In temps below 20 F it can take 20 minutes. Today in 16 F weather the red triangle came on, followed by a problem banner, followed by a thermostat symbol. The triangle and symbol turned on a off a couple of times over a 5 minute span. I had been driving the car from a cold start for about 15 minutes when this happened. The car did start to produce some, but not a lot, of heat at about 20 minutes into the drive. I was also forced to use the defroster intermittently for the first 15 minutes (blew only cold air). After parking the car for 20 minutes I drove 20 minutes home with no triangle or thermostat symbol. Most of the way home I had sufficient heat.
I do have the front blocked with pipe insulation. I have owned my 06 prius for over a year and it has 257,000 on it.
Could the thermostat and triangle be caused by a low engine temp? If so would a stuck thermostat be a potential culprit?
Can I assume that if my car is blowing cold air when I am asking for heat that the engine is not over heating?
Can I use the remote climate control switch to heat the cabin during cold mornings as well as cool the cabin during hot summer days?
View 8 RepliesI've owned my 2003 Santa fe v4 for about a year and a half now. One thing that has always bothered me in the fact my air condition works on only two out of four levels. Level 2 and Level 3 work perfectly, but level 1 and level 4 dont work, and have never worked.
I've gotten a lot of things replaced, but never bothered with this as I barely use it anyways (windows down + high speed = just as good).
I've been searching for a few days, Can not find an exact same posted issue. 2004 Passat GLX 2.8 Auto FWD. The car starts great, will idle all day if you let it. Will move down the driveway or a small ways down the road and die. start it again, will start easy. die once it levels at idle. Also if you rev it, it will die within a second of revving. If you can get it high enough, say 4000+ it will die, but as the engine speed slows down it will catch again and come alive. and kinda repeat. will do that as long as you hold the gas down. after about 15mins of restarting, it will level out at idle and you can continue on your way. the fuel pump still runs for it's second after the engine dies, so i know it's still going. The car recently had new plugs put on, New brake switch, and the pcv hose that runs from passenger side valve cover to the rear of drivers side along the front was replaced with the same size rubber hose. it broke during new plug install. It idles smooth, drives good while acting right. but does have a noticeable power loss, but still very driveable.
View 1 RepliesJust as I was about to start my '03 S10 I noticed that all of the gauges were not at zero and showed various levels even though the key was not inserted. When I tried to start it there was nothing. I charged the battery overnight and it started without hesitation; however, as I started driving, the gauges would stop working and then suddenly jump to life and, at the same time, all the idiot lights would light up! This carried on the entire 20 minute drive to work. Incredibly, none of this happened on the way home. My OBD reader reported zero issues. What's wrong with my truck?
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