Acura - Mdx :: 2008 Started Blowing Black Stuff Through AC System
May 18, 2012
Our 2008 Acura MDX started blowing black stuff through a/c system (driver and passenger sides). When I picked up a piece of it and crushed it in my hand, it would disintegrate into almost a powder-like substance.
We took it to the Acura Dealer and according to them interior filter and a/c vent look fine and they would have to take the whole dashboard apart to see if there is a problem. What it could be? It's not affecting the performance of the car and the AC seems to function just fine. This black net-like particles started last summer.
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Ok so the wife and I were heading home, she was in her 2.0t sedan, I was in my 3.6 4motion wagon. I got stuck behind a slow driver on the highway (doing 50 in a 70 mph zone) so I get in the passing lane and I floor it to pass him. When I get home, my wife tells me she saw a good amount of black/blue smoke coming out my tail pipes when I went to pass the other driver. This is on a engine with 2400 miles.
I take a look, and the chrome exhaust tips I had installed not long ago are now all black, covered in a oily thick residue. These same exhaust tips were on my previous 07 3.6 4motion wagon for 10k miles and was still shiny when I took them off. but after about 1k miles on the 08, they are now all black. I check the oil and it still reads full.
So what could this black smoke and this oily residue on the exhaust tips be caused by? should I be concerned? Engine runs fine with the exception of sometimes stalling when trying to start it after a short stop. (VAG-COM doesn't show any error codes logged.
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I am writing about a 2007 Chevrolet Suburban and for the last few months, have noticed that the car is losing oil. I have to put in a quart of oil about every 3 weeks. I have brought it in to the mechanics and asked them to look for a leak and they can't find anything. They have changed the oil, replaced the evap hose, but the car is still losing oil. Just did a lot of driving this last weekend and the oil went all the way down, to the point of when I started it this morning, I got a huge amount of blue smoke out the back. When I took off the cap to add oil, I noticed this mustard yellow, foamy stuff on the lid. Never saw that before.
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I was driving from home to work the other day and it was 6 degrees out. My heat was working good and everything was fine and then all of a sudden the passenger side started blowing cool air. Not cold not warm. Driver side was still hot. It is a lariat and has dual temp zones. Everything I read everyone says blender doors but what would make it stop working out of no where when everything was fine. Occasionally when I start my truck and turn the heat on it makes a popping noise under the dash when the blower kicks on. But it has done this since I owned it an never had an issue. It's 25 below today and I would really love to have completely functional heat. It's an 2008 f350.
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I recently had my oil &filter changed on my 01 integra at the dealer and was told that my oil pan gasket has started to leak. Car has 180k on it, and has no engine leaks.Seems like steep price for the repair $340.00 for the oil pan gasket. Is this repair really worth doing on a 12yr old car or is this just a normal thing that happens w/ age. Also Oil is not leaking on the ground and has no leaks around the engine. Iam only adding 1qt. of oil every 3k.
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My v10 Ex blowing black smoke, RPM goes up and down, when put it in gear stalls and dead, engine is shaking and all this happened after one small 80mi trip, it was perfectly running until I turn off the engine .for almost 2 minutes. So what to do ?? And there is no code .
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I I have Integra 94 RS, all of sudden it started to shake like crazy. it feels like the car has a stuffy nose (something clogged).
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My '92 Integra has ~280K miles. A couple of years ago the tachometer started "bouncing" up and down while the engine seemed to run fine. Some time after, it started to hesitate under acceleration. A few months ago the car died while driving along the highway. The tachometer went up and down as the engine cut off and came back on before finally dying. A tow to the repair shop lead to a tune up, changing of spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and the ignition coil. That got the car running again, with its usual erratic tach and hesitation on acceleration. Then, the car died again in a similar way while driving. I was found to have a dead battery. Replacing it got the car running again...but the tach is still erratic and the car still hesitates. I am concerned that there is still some underlying issue that has not been fixed. I sometimes think it is a loose connection because there are times when the car seems just fine, but that is happening less frequently.
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I have an 04 MDX it has over 100k on it, and about the time it was approaching that milestone, the transmission started "hesitating" when shifting into overdrive.... then it began to try to shift into overdrive way to early driving in town.... and it felt like we were riding across rumble strips every time it would do this.....We have found out.... that if we do not move the transmission selector lever into the overdrive position, but leave it in D4 [thus manually avoiding the overdrive] it does just fine....
We just suffer in the gas mileage dept., but it does not feel like the transmission is going to fall out while riding in town....My question is; is there a way to disconnect or disable the overdrive so that no matter what gear someone puts it in, it will not try to shift into overdrive by itself.When I am driving it; it is not an issue, I remember to not use overdrive every time; but when the wife or the children drive, they sometimes forget, and I am afraid it is going to do real damage beyond low gas mileage......
I have heard that this is a common problem with this vehicle, and that replacing the transmission is a very short-lived solution, as the problem is design related and will eventually happen again.
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I have a 2004 Acura TL which has been in pretty good shape up until recently.
The left headlight started working on and off spontaneously. I also have noticed that the rear power door locks have been very "sluggish." Meaning they sound like they are just not powerful enough to unlock the door and often take about 5 or more cycles of lock/unlock to finally work.
I took it to the Acura dealer to take a look at the headlight, and they ran the diagnostic kit and said it looked like I had a faulty headlight electrical setup. They said the bulb, igniter, and ballast, and even the car battery were bad and needed to be replaced.
My question is did the faulty battery cause this? And could my USB cigarette lighter adapter for my phone charger cause a drain on my battery to wear it down? The charger doesn't seem to use any electricity unless the phone is plugged in and the car running (a light comes on). Or anything else you can think of?
The lesson I've learned for my next car is to get one with normal headlights and normal size rims. (the 17" tires are annoyingly expensive!)
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My transmission started to slip badly and I stopped it immediately and found transmission fluid in the radiator and nothing in the transmission. We replaced the radiator and flushed and refilled everything. It runs great now except it is vibrating every now and then. I'm wondering if the vibration is from running the transmission dry.
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6.0. 115,000 miles. Everything stock, except bully dog intake filter.
I replaced the FICM recently, with one that I bought from the guy who makes those cool You Tube videos, Diesel Tech Ron. I also replaced the EGR valve. I also replaced the intercooler boots on the hot side. I cleaned the intercooler pipes. I cleaned the intake filter as well. I'm still blowing out black smoke, if I floor it when I need to pass someone.
Follow up question: I bought those boots from Riff Raff Diesel and I bought new clamps, too. I'm not sure if I installed correctly. It's already blown one off (it blew the top of the intercooler pipe off, by the turbo, but the boot stays on the turbo) and I put it back on and tightened it all the way down, and I've had to re-adjust 2 times, now, since it acts like it still wants to slip off. Do I simply have the other ones misaligned???
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Driving home 2003 6.0 started blowing a ton of black smoke, cars wouldn't get behind me. Found an exhaust leak on the driver side up y pipe. Would that cause this much smoke? 2 codes were 0284 and 0281, I replaced those injectors about 10k ago, at the same time replaced turbo, hpop, egr valve and cooler delete, and new oil cooler.
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Found a 2004 Ex, Eddie Bauer edition says it has injector issues, blowing black smoke........ It is apart cause he thought it was the EGR. Has 245,000 on the clock. If the body is super clean I'll give him a offer, it's going to get a motor either way and I'll have my Ex back.............I really miss that truck!
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1988 4.0 - noticed fuel mileage going down and an occasional stumble for a while but now I am getting some black smoke more when I let off the throttle than when I going down the road if I rev the truck get all kind of black soot all over the floor otherwise runs fine idles fine the iac has been replaced air filter replaced check the fuel pressure regulator for any gas leaking into the vacuum line and its clean.
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I bought a 2003 Vw Gti 1.8t ... What to do or look for when something goes wrong . About a two months after driving it, it won't idle and it shuts off while in Neutral . I've done my research and i believe he didn't install the BOV in right, only bc it is not recirculates the air. Make sense? Is there ANYTHING i can do so it will run better and idle?
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Ok I have a 2004 f250 6.0L, has 104k on it. A little back story... truck was running well when I started to get surging on takeoff and it was blowing black smoke when it surged. After it hit 1600 rpm it would blow out and run normal. So did some research and found it could be the FCIM, I have the 4 pin and tested it and had 48.5v so it tested good. Did some more research and found symptoms leading towards the ICP so I replaced that and the ICR also.
Upon doing this my surging issue cleared up but now I'm getting a miss around 1200 + rpm weather it's in park Reving it or driving, but it is not throwing any codes, I did check with my code reader. I have also changed both fuel filters and have the EBP sensor on order as I hear they can be troublesome. My question is what should I do next or look at? I was trying to avoid the dealer so I can learn more about the truck in diagnosis.
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I have just replaced the EGR cooler, Oil Cooler, professional turbo reconditioning, both dummy plug's and stand-pipe's, blue spring, fuel filters, oil changed, cleaned the EGR valve and intake manifold. I am in the process of doing a coolant flush when my issue occurred. I was on the road for about 10 minutes when I lost power and started blowing black smoke. I have normal power till about 45 mph then nothing. I can baby the truck up to 55-60 and then nothing and the whole time blowing black smoke.
I stomp on the pedal with no power. I hear the whine of the turbo. The truck idles and sounds fine. My SCT showed my oil and coolant temps within 15 degrees. I opened the hood and saw soot all over the top of the engine from the compressor to the EGR valve and all in the valley from valve cover to valve cover; but more so on the driver side to FICM. I obviously didn't connect something properly. I am just about to remove the intake manifold and reinstall, but before I do just wanted some input.
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While I was pulling off and boost started to build up I heard a loud "pop' ( sounds like when you disconnected the hose from an air compressor ). After this happen the car doesn't wanna idle or rev up past 2k rpm'ish. I was getting a ton of black smoke from the exhaust and had a very heavy scent of gas. Does this sound like a blown turbo symptoms?
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I have a 06 6.0 Powerstroke 6 Speed every time I get on it or even try to get going I have no power and I have pure black smoke blowing out the exhaust somebody told me to change the fuel filters which I did which they were pretty nasty then after I did that I seem to still have the same problem so then they told me to check the EGR valve put injector cleaner in it to clean the injectors which I have not done a gr or injector cleaner yet just wanted to know, what it could be or what I can do to prevent the black smoke I have no power either...
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My 2006 F-250 (6.0 Diesel) started blowing black smoke under acceleration yesterday. It has 181k miles on it now. No loss of power, no rough idle, no smoke unless there's a load on the engine like accelerating, but then it doesn't matter if it's 1500 or 3000RPM, just the higher the RPM the more smoke it blows from the exhaust, dark black.
The truck has ARP headstuds, no programmer. Replaced both batteries and the A/C system about 2 weeks ago. About 3000 miles ago it got new glow plugs & harnesses, new alternator, all fluids changed, new aftermarket EGR cooler, new EGR valve, new turbo & actuator, new EBP sensor, new HPOP incl pipes and IPR.
Trucks starts up just fine, runs normal, just yesterday going down the Freeway about 65mph I noticed it started smoking black going up a hill, then smoke went away going downhill... Now every time I accelerate it's smoking black. Taking off from a stop sign it made a little puff of white smoke then went back to black smoke, but that only happened once.
Where I should start looking? No codes so far. But I have an AutoXRay EZ-Scan 6000, what sensors do I need to look at?
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