Acura - Mdx :: 2007 - Vibrates At 25 And 40 MPH
Mar 29, 2012
I believe my torque converter has issues in my 07 MDX(92k) as I get vibration around 25 and 40MPH if driven easy. Torque converter guess is based on google research however, I do not get a jumpy tach that some folks report. The one dealership I did visit said did not exhibit condition. Vibration intermittently presents itself if you drive vehicle easy but shifts wonderfully if driven moderately to really hard.
Transmission fluid was last changed at 70k at the dealer where all service performed at proper intervals. Are my questions ignoring an issue like this lead to bigger problems? What to do. Would changing transmission fluid which is pink and smells fine do any good? My plan of ownership is 4-5years/60k miles.
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Recently I noticed my car vibrates to left and right when I hit the pedal and the speed is around 40mph and above. The car runs smooth if I maintain the speed.The car has 176K and running quite good and I am about to have the timing belt service.I am just curious what could cause this: timing belt? fuel filter? The car is 2001 acura TL so it has front wheel drive.
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just replaced the timing belt and water pump on my '97 Acura TL. (80k mi), It now vibrates in gear at idle,but runs like a champ above 1000 RPMs. Didn't do it when I took it in. Our trusted mechanic says it's the motor mounts. I say "how do motor mounts go bad overnight?" There are small drips on my driveway under the car.
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So, I have a 2007 Acura TSX with stock rims/lug nuts. Anyway, I just recently had to have one tire replaced due to a side wall puncture. Now, on that wheel, I am noticing that one lug nut is sticking out further than the other ones. It feels tight when I try to turn it, and I am unable to loosen it by hand. I don't have a torque wrench, so I am not sure what it is torqued to, but I am kind of concerned about this.
Could they have screwed up the lug nut post? Obviously, I will take it back to the place I had the tire/rim put on at, but they most likely won't be open till after the holiday.
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I just purchased a very clean 2008 with 32K miles on it to replace my 2011 Sonata SE that has a suspension too harsh for my wife's bad back and neck. It was a one owner, driven by a little old lady in Santa Fe, NM. She is no longer able to drive and her husband didn't need to keep the car. This was a private purchase, not dealer/CPO.
During my highway test drive, I noticed a little vibration in the steering wheel above 60 mph but couldn't go much faster since I was in town and there was lots of traffic. I attributed that to nearly 6-year old Bridgestone Turanza tires in pretty poor shape. So right after purchasing I put a set of Michelin Primacy MXV4 on it. I got onto the highway later that day and at about 65 mph, a vibration in the steering wheel shows up. It seems somewhat inconsistent in that if I am accelerating or decelerating, the vibration comes and goes through the 65 - 75 mph range. I have not driven above 75 to see what happens to the vibration.
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The car developed a vibration at freeway speed (65-80+) and the dealer kept saying it was tire balance, alignment, etc. After replacing tires, having them road force balance the tires and do an alignment, car still had the vibration. Contacted Lexus and the service manager drove with me and immediately felt the vibration. they double checked the balance, alignment, etc. and decided it was shocks. Car has 70,000 miles. Lexus agreed to pay for 2 of the struts. Picked up the car and it is like new. Smooth as silk. the old shocks did not have signs of being worn out, leaking or being bad. I was a bit hesitant but the Service Manager said if it didn't fix the problem, they would put the old ones back on and I wouldn't pay for anything.
I have my car serviced only at the dealer and they have stood behind the car. Lexus also. I had the control arm problem and Lexus stepped up and paid for that repair.
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I have a honda odyssey 07. I just I just got an alignment done on Tuesday night. I think it drove okay. I sent my car to Costco last night to get 2 new front tires replaced. Took the local road home last night and didn't notice anything wrong. As soon as I hit the freeway, I noticed my car vibrates uncontrollably when I accelerate at the speed btwn 65-70 mph. However, it seems okay when my feet are off the gas pedal. Should I stop driving? I would like to know if my car is safe.
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After replacing my leaking valve cover gasket and pouring more oil into the engine, the car vibrates very rough while standing on a red light. Also the stronger I make the AC while standing on a light the less rough it vibrates. I followed Haynes manual and their torque specifications of 120 inch pounds for the center bolts and 86 inch pounds for the perimeter bolts. I also had another problem when I started the car it started very weird and the battery light turned on. After shutting it off right away and starting again the light went away. Battery is brand new and the alternator was replaced 3 months ago by a dualast brand (only one available at that moment unfortunately) Are these issues related to replacing the gasket? Also is it possible my starter is bad? I was told this by a autozone worker that its possible. When I start the car the battery light flashes quickly and very dimly but goes away. Only pending codes are C1241 ABS low or high voltage.
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I have a 2007 Honda CRV AWD. The car studders/vibrates, as if driving over metal grates. Or like going over grooves in the road when moving over to the shoulder. This only happens when driving 50 mph or less. When I take my foot off the gas petal, the vibration stops, but will come back.
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I own a 2007 Acura TL (3.2) with 130K miles. Last October I hit a pot hole which blew my front driver side tire and bent my rear driver side wheel and upper control arm. After replacing both tires, wheel, control arm and having the car realigned twice by two different Acura mechanics over the past 6months, my car still pulls left at highway speeds. I've noticed that the tires have gotten louder while driving and that both passenger side tires have worn significantly but only on the outer most edge (left side facing car). Before I buy any more tires and spend more $ on alignments, why is the car pulling left? What else could wrong with my suspension?
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I have a 2007 ranger and when applying the brakes i get a vibration, I think it may be in the rear of the truck but it is hard to tell.
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Problem #1: So I've noticed a clunking when I go over sharp bumps or uneven road conditions (think roots under the pavement) at low speeds, such as in a parking lot. The noise is only under the front left tire well area, and the car drives smooth and great otherwise. Is it a bad joint? The closest dealership is over an hour away, so I want to make sure I'm driving there with a real reason. The MDX has about 130K, transmission is great, and new timing belt, so I'm scared it's some sort of axle/joint problem...
Problem #2: The check emissions light came on about two days ago. I have filled up since, but it hasn't gone away. There is not a smell from the exhaust, and there is no rattling. Gas mileage hasn't changed one bit either! What could it be?? The car has been restarted quite a few times, but the light comes on each time.
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I have a 2007 Ford F-150 small box bought new, now has 80,000 miles. The rear end started to make a slight roaring noise that started to turn into a vibration. That turned into a major vibration (windshield wipers would hop). I figured a bad U-joint, but it had no "clunking sounds". I took it to a non-dealer mechanic and he said the "rear end is shot, and also a bad leaf spring..." I do not tow with this truck, or go off road, but it does have a Tommy lift installed. Does this sound normal for the miles and usage of the truck? Any recalls for this model that effects the rear end?
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I have a new to me 07 MDX with 82k miles. Exactly at 1 mile over the 30day/1200 mile used car warranty the Check Engine Light illuminated along. The NAV screen showed an emissions code P0401. I really don't notice any symptoms in running at all. Anyway a few drives (on/off) and it turns off for four days. It happened again with same code. Again few drives it went off. It seems to happen when driving easy. It gets great MPG in mixed driving on average (20MPG) which is far better than its rating. Should I wait till it stays on steady before I address this?
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Looking at getting a new car this fall and am torn between the Volvo XC60 and Acura MDX (2013s).
I've test drove both a couple times. Both drive well, goods and bads about both obviously, just wanted to get some opinions.
I think the Volvo is faster, more luxurious, more destintive looks. Only downside is the tech is a bit cumbersome.
The Acura has a great track record, handles so good for a bigger vehicle.
Plastic wood panelling is too much and the 1995 display font in the center stack is dated.
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I have an 88 acura integra and the problim is that once in a while it would not start after it had been running. If I let it sit for 5 min it would start. Now it is happening everyday. One time it will start great and run fine, but when I turn it off I don't know if it will start again. I checked the gas and it is getting gas and the pressure is fine, but when it last happened it would turn over but wouldn't start for the rest of the day, I checked and it had no spark. After I replaced the ignition control mod and rotor, it started on the second try but when i got to work and turned it off the same thing. I let it sit for a while (about 15 min) and it started. Like I said after it starts it runs great, lots of power, no missing or any thing.
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Lately, my 1990 Integra has been idling VERY low. Some mornings, while idling at a stop, the rpms fluctuate up and down to the point where it almost dies. Is it just cold? I live in coastal San Diego, so it's not freezing here. This morning, had to keep my foot on the gas to keep the car from stalling before getting home from dropping son off at school. It died in the driveway. Started up just fine right afterwards, but idled down to nothing. Now it idles okay, but at a pretty low rpms, like usual. NOW, the battery, a SEARS Diehard Silver, is near the end of its usable life. Prorated 84,000 mile replacement warranty, but I have had it for 8.5 years and have 1 82,000 miles on it. YES! I have been meaning to replace it, as it is leaking some nasty stuff at the terminals, but wonder if the weird idling is a symptom of something else, since the car still turns over.
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I recently found out my motor mounts are bad. Almost a year ago I noticed I was leaking coolant so I just filled it with water every time it was empty. Now I have been getting an overheating problem if it's not filled to the right amount. Just yesterday the problem got worse as there is green gunk at the opening of the radiator and it's always hot. The reservoir is filling up with hot water a lot of the time. My radiator will be empty when that happens. As I was driving the gauge was reading hot. Turning on the heater didn't work much. I tested it tonight, with the radiator full and 2 cups water in reservoir. Drove it a few blocks and turned off car. Radiator had lots of pressure and hot. The reservoir was same level.
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Driving down the highway on a sunny, beautiful Texas day, I had the sunroof closed but the sun shade open. I heard this loud pop that sounded like a gun and looked up to see the sunroof has shattered on my 2010 Acura TL. I was terrified but didn't lose control of the car, shut the shade, and drove it to the nearest dealership. It was $950 to replace the glass and the dealer said it would not be covered by warranty as a rock must have hit the sunroof. I only heard a pop, though--wouldn't a rock have made a separate hit followed by the pop explosion?
The whole experience has just left a bad impression of Acura and the dealer's refusal consider the warranty. Our insurance deductible is too high to cover the glass. Looking on the internet (unscientific, I know) I saw a few stories similar to mine where the sunroof exploded as the driver was driving down the highway due to pressure in the cabin being incompatible with the sunny day and pressure outside. Is this possible?
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I just bought a 95 Acura Integra from Canada. I haven't driven it in a few weeks. It has a lot of stuff in it. An aftermarket engine and intake. Also aftermarket speakers and stereo. It has blue lights installed by the pedals. Now it won't start. I got stuck in town the other day. Whats wrong? I really love this car. Awesome body kit and everything. I don't wanna sell it!
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Why my 99 Acura would die out in hot weather? This seems to happen especially if the AC has been on. (I am pretty sure that this exact thing was discussed on the radio about a month ago but I forgot what they said!).
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