Acura - Legend :: Steel Hammer Type Noise From Under The Hood
Mar 1, 2011
I have a 91' Acura Legend (lots of miles 179K) and makes a sound of a sick lion/ steel hammer. When I turn it on, automatically it rev's the RPM's to 1.5-2000, and I will usually wait a few minutes before it reduces RPM. When I put it in any gear it will make a pound (like steel) from the hood. When in drive I have to slowly accelerate or the pop continues then follows with a sick almost grinding (like a Lion has a sore throat)sound. If I barely push on the accelerator it will drive slightly normal or (sometimes) slam on the gas. What do you think?
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OK, so go out to my 1994 Acura Legend, crank it, hear a loud hum that doesn't go away, then bluish smoke appears from under the hood. Immediately shut off the engine and open the hood to release the smoke. Haven't touched it since.
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After 3 months of complaining my wife finally got me in the van to do some errands. We came to a stop at a stop light and I hear this jack hammer noise start, lasts about 3 seconds and trails off. I am looking around the intersection, which is under construction, looking for a jack hammer and my wife says that's the noise that I have been talking about. This noise only occurs when the car is at a standstill after braking and recently happened twice when my wife stopped, released the brake and applied it again. The problem is getting progressively worse.Our mechanic's opinion is that is is a rpm sensor on one of the wheels which is sending a false signal to the ABS system to activate. Another opinion is that the master cylinder has moisture in it and needs to be flushed.This car has about 125m miles. What so I try first?
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I recently found out my motor mounts are bad. Almost a year ago I noticed I was leaking coolant so I just filled it with water every time it was empty. Now I have been getting an overheating problem if it's not filled to the right amount. Just yesterday the problem got worse as there is green gunk at the opening of the radiator and it's always hot. The reservoir is filling up with hot water a lot of the time. My radiator will be empty when that happens. As I was driving the gauge was reading hot. Turning on the heater didn't work much. I tested it tonight, with the radiator full and 2 cups water in reservoir. Drove it a few blocks and turned off car. Radiator had lots of pressure and hot. The reservoir was same level.
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My acura legend is now starting to not shift in d4 or d3 after it has been driven for awhile.... It only shifts to 2 and 1.... So I drive it in 2 but it doesn't sound right or drive right I can definitely tell the difference... What is going on what should I do???
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My 1991 Acura Legend LS does not start in cold weather and in the morning. Once it does, it keeps on starting and runs great. Prior to catching and starting it rattles and shakes and when I press the accelerator, it makes sounds like it is not getting enough air. The problem occured abruptly after a mechanic tried to find out why the radiator fan does not come on. That has been fixed by putting a new relay. The car has 176,000 miles and has never given starting problem before.
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My car doors creak very loudly when opening/closing. It's embarrassing. I have tried 3 different sprays: Silicone spray, WD40, and PB Blaster! None of these worked and now I don't know what to do. I'd like to fix minor problems myself instead of always having to go to a mechanic and having them charge me an arm & a leg. The only thing I do notice on the hinges of the doors is rust. I have had this car for 1 1/2 yrs and they've been creaking for about 6 months. I live in the city and nowhere near the ocean or out in the country where you find sand. So I just don't understand why this happened.
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1991 Acura Legend 6 cylinders
For about a week, my car was hard to start, and very sluggish upon acceleration. By Friday, the car was not getting over 20 mph, chugging, and semi-backfiring. I took off the valve covers and found quite a bit of oil in the 2nd cylinder, along with a crude covered ignition coil. I replaced all 6 spark plugs (properly gapped) and bought a new coil for the #2 cylinder. I also replaced the valve cover gaskets, and all 6 rings to prevent more oil seepage. After putting everything back together, making sure wires were correctly aligned, the car will not start. It cranks, but does not turn over. I put the old coil back on, and it did the same thing- crank but no start. Have I lost compression? How can I restore compression? The engine sounds so close to turning over, but not quite there. I'm stumped.
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I have a '93 Acura Legend type 2 which I love. However, last week I jumped it because I don't drive it much, unhooked the jumper cables, let the car run for about 10 minutes; I was ready to go so I turned on the headlights and the car immediately just died, like COMPLETELY. No lights, clicks or any electrical activity of any kind. Complete deathly silence. I assume it's either a main fuse, relay, or else (gulp) a short somewhere.
If this could be a fuse or relay, which one(s) it could be?
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My 87 Acura Legend with 210,00 miles has an automatic transmission slipping problem. Car will not start moving when in the D position (slips), but if i shift manually to 2 , then S3 , it shifts ok except for some shuttering when shifting to D at about 35 mph. It also does not lock into Park when shifting to P position( car will roll when on a hill.) The shift cable and adjustment are ok. The S3 light does not blink and there are no codes stored. The trans fluid was changed 5,000 miles ago and level and condition are both good.( I have only used Honda fluid for the life of the car and change it every other oil change.) I removed the shift solenoids to find all of the screens clean and all solenoids clicked when 12v applied. At this point i realize i probably have an internal problem (possibly bad clutch pack?) My question is why doesn't the parking pin lock? Is this related to the slipping problem?
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What is wrong with my car. It drives fine for a while every day then out of the blue starts hesitating and sounding like it wants to shut off when we're at a traffic light. It gets worse when I am making a turn, like it hesitates to pick up speed and starts like sputtering. When my car does this the muffler starts smoking really bad. The smoke is not a black color it is white. When it feels like it's going to turn off, I have to put it in Neutral then it stops. They did say the fuel pump wasn't bad so I am assuming spark plugs??? What may be causing this problem?
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1988 Acura Legend, 2.7L 6 cyl., 181,000 miles only do 6,500 miles a year to train station, parked inside, runs great. Last week parked out in hot sun, '90s, for 8 hours. At first, no problem. When did errand and returned to car, pushed clutch pedal and it would not return or allow gear to engage. "Jammed" into 1st, then could not shift, shifted slightly by pulling up on clutch pedal with my foot. Parked overnight, cool, next morning seemed to be fine and crept to mechanic. Mechanic road tested and found no problem and now seems to be working okay. Would parking in sun, high heat cause "clutch cylinder" to "seize" or "freeze"? Is there a "fix"? Also, increasingly hard to get parts for this car.
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I have had my struts replaced at local gas station. Unfortunately, there is now an occasional hard steel on steel knock in the front. Very weird indeed.
Is there something they may have missed when they installed them?
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I am not sure if this is an ignition or electrical problem. I have noticed that recently when I turn the car off, I am getting a buzzing/motor/whoosh type of sound coming from the ignition. I have never noticed this before, and I am not sure what might be causing this? The car is a 2007 Acura TSX with 111k miles on it. The car starts fine and turns off fine.
Is this something I need the dealer to look at, or is this no big deal? What was it? I am not be able to "duplicate it".
Also, it ONLY makes this sound when you turn the car off, not if you just turn the key to the pre-start position, and then turn it off.
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I recently purchased a beautiful 07 LS460 with 24K miles about 3 weeks ago.
About 2 weeks ago, I noticed a loud clicking / hammer noise from the dashboard lasting about 15- 20 seconds and after reviewing numerous threads here, I realized it could be my blender door / damper due to the infamous cabin air filter change. .
It must be noted that the Dealer did not change the cabin air filter and when I looked inside my glove box, I could easily open / close the blender door using the recirc ac button. Additionally, my cooling and fan is working fine as well, so I am not too sure that this is a blender door issue.
My question is that the noise continues to happen for about 20 seconds when the car is started and shut off. Since my blender door / damper opens and closes smoothly, is the servo motor going bad or servo sub assembly?
If it is my servo motor, could it be possible that it was damaged when the cabin filter was replaced? With the car only bearing 24K miles, I cant believe my servo motor has already gone bad!
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my friends Hyundai Santa-FE 2007 makes a knocking noise like a hammer hitting the engine when she starts the car and drives. What could that be?
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This morning I went to drive my car and the check engine light, along with the D4 light on the dash went on. The D4 light started blinking. When I drove the car, it felt really heavy like it was not shifting right. There was also a bad smell coming from the hood. I took it to get the code read and it was P0758. There seems to be something wrong with the transmission and I am just wondering how much it will cost, and if it is worth it. The car is in great shape, I just had the timing belt changed.
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Originally, the inciting event was a plume of smoke coming from under my hood. I had the car towed and they said my radiator blew up and did the repair. A week later, I was smelling what I thought was radiator fluid. I took it back and they said I had three major oil leaks. My wife didn't understand why they did spot the leaks just a week earlier, if they were that major? All that said, I had been going there for awhile, so I trusted them. They fixed, or they said they fixed, all three leaks but when they returned the car, it would kind of rattle intermittently whenever the car was stopped but running.
I had no such problem before bring it in for the other issues. They kept it for another few days, almost a month in total with all the repairs and they said they got it to where it was barely noticeable. Well now, just two weeks late, it has been getting worse and worse, the rattling of the car when the car is stopped. And tonight, all of my warning lights suddenly came on- engine warning, brakes, everything all at once. I spent two and half grand with this shop and they returned it with a problem it didn't even have before. It needs timing belt, that was the next thing to get repaired.
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I first noted a very faint jack hammer type sound from center of bottom of car last week-noticed it once or twice while driving, but then it continued, a little louder, and even continued when I turned the car off for about 5 minutes. Same thing happened when I drove to work the next day, and when I went to get in my car after work, it was still doing it-I think the noise must have lasted all day. Took it to the dealer and he heard it the night I dropped it off but nothing the next day when warranty inspector came out. The service guy did tell me he captured it on the computer read out and it had something to do with the brakes or ?ABS system. Service said they would drive car home and check it out-he got nothing on his long ride home but the next morning when the car was cold, it reproduced the problem. Inspector was due to come back out next day when car was cold, but came later when it had warmed up and did not reproduce, so will not fix it. They tell me is is safe to drive...is it?? And what the heck could this be?
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The SC I recently bought is quite quiet except for a helicopter noise at speed.
This noise becomes obvious at around 70 kph (40 mph) but can be noticed at lower speed (volume much lower). I don't think turning the wheels or braking makes a difference.
Since it's speed-sensitive and there's no noise when the car isn't moving, I guess it's related to the wheels. I've just replaced the rear tyres last weeks; nothing changed. I've checked the tyre pressure today; may have got a little improvement (not sure) but the noise is still there.
Is this the wheel bearing noise? Or is this tyre noise? Could the differential make this kind of noise (the only other thing I can think of that's speed-correlated)?
Also, as an aside I pulled the fuse on the te/ti steering the other day because I'm too lazy to use techstream. I swear there's a noticeable improvement in the steering accuracy and feel. Really don't know why.
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In my 2012 Elantra Limited that has less than 2000 miles on it, I occasionally get a chattering type noise when I put the car in reverse. It goes away when the foot is off the brake and car is in motion but reappears when braking to shift to drive. It only happens probably 5-10% of the times that I need to put the car in reverse. I stopped by the dealership and asked if they knew what it was and he said it was the brake calipers and there was nothing to do to resolve the noise.
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