My acura legend is now starting to not shift in d4 or d3 after it has been driven for awhile.... It only shifts to 2 and 1.... So I drive it in 2 but it doesn't sound right or drive right I can definitely tell the difference... What is going on what should I do???
View 1 RepliesMy 87 Acura Legend with 210,00 miles has an automatic transmission slipping problem. Car will not start moving when in the D position (slips), but if i shift manually to 2 , then S3 , it shifts ok except for some shuttering when shifting to D at about 35 mph. It also does not lock into Park when shifting to P position( car will roll when on a hill.) The shift cable and adjustment are ok. The S3 light does not blink and there are no codes stored. The trans fluid was changed 5,000 miles ago and level and condition are both good.( I have only used Honda fluid for the life of the car and change it every other oil change.) I removed the shift solenoids to find all of the screens clean and all solenoids clicked when 12v applied. At this point i realize i probably have an internal problem (possibly bad clutch pack?) My question is why doesn't the parking pin lock? Is this related to the slipping problem?
View 2 RepliesI recently found out my motor mounts are bad. Almost a year ago I noticed I was leaking coolant so I just filled it with water every time it was empty. Now I have been getting an overheating problem if it's not filled to the right amount. Just yesterday the problem got worse as there is green gunk at the opening of the radiator and it's always hot. The reservoir is filling up with hot water a lot of the time. My radiator will be empty when that happens. As I was driving the gauge was reading hot. Turning on the heater didn't work much. I tested it tonight, with the radiator full and 2 cups water in reservoir. Drove it a few blocks and turned off car. Radiator had lots of pressure and hot. The reservoir was same level.
View 6 RepliesMy 1991 Acura Legend LS does not start in cold weather and in the morning. Once it does, it keeps on starting and runs great. Prior to catching and starting it rattles and shakes and when I press the accelerator, it makes sounds like it is not getting enough air. The problem occured abruptly after a mechanic tried to find out why the radiator fan does not come on. That has been fixed by putting a new relay. The car has 176,000 miles and has never given starting problem before.
View 6 RepliesMy car doors creak very loudly when opening/closing. It's embarrassing. I have tried 3 different sprays: Silicone spray, WD40, and PB Blaster! None of these worked and now I don't know what to do. I'd like to fix minor problems myself instead of always having to go to a mechanic and having them charge me an arm & a leg. The only thing I do notice on the hinges of the doors is rust. I have had this car for 1 1/2 yrs and they've been creaking for about 6 months. I live in the city and nowhere near the ocean or out in the country where you find sand. So I just don't understand why this happened.
View 6 Replies1991 Acura Legend 6 cylinders
For about a week, my car was hard to start, and very sluggish upon acceleration. By Friday, the car was not getting over 20 mph, chugging, and semi-backfiring. I took off the valve covers and found quite a bit of oil in the 2nd cylinder, along with a crude covered ignition coil. I replaced all 6 spark plugs (properly gapped) and bought a new coil for the #2 cylinder. I also replaced the valve cover gaskets, and all 6 rings to prevent more oil seepage. After putting everything back together, making sure wires were correctly aligned, the car will not start. It cranks, but does not turn over. I put the old coil back on, and it did the same thing- crank but no start. Have I lost compression? How can I restore compression? The engine sounds so close to turning over, but not quite there. I'm stumped.
I have a 91' Acura Legend (lots of miles 179K) and makes a sound of a sick lion/ steel hammer. When I turn it on, automatically it rev's the RPM's to 1.5-2000, and I will usually wait a few minutes before it reduces RPM. When I put it in any gear it will make a pound (like steel) from the hood. When in drive I have to slowly accelerate or the pop continues then follows with a sick almost grinding (like a Lion has a sore throat)sound. If I barely push on the accelerator it will drive slightly normal or (sometimes) slam on the gas. What do you think?
View 3 RepliesI have a '93 Acura Legend type 2 which I love. However, last week I jumped it because I don't drive it much, unhooked the jumper cables, let the car run for about 10 minutes; I was ready to go so I turned on the headlights and the car immediately just died, like COMPLETELY. No lights, clicks or any electrical activity of any kind. Complete deathly silence. I assume it's either a main fuse, relay, or else (gulp) a short somewhere.
If this could be a fuse or relay, which one(s) it could be?
OK, so go out to my 1994 Acura Legend, crank it, hear a loud hum that doesn't go away, then bluish smoke appears from under the hood. Immediately shut off the engine and open the hood to release the smoke. Haven't touched it since.
View 3 RepliesWhat is wrong with my car. It drives fine for a while every day then out of the blue starts hesitating and sounding like it wants to shut off when we're at a traffic light. It gets worse when I am making a turn, like it hesitates to pick up speed and starts like sputtering. When my car does this the muffler starts smoking really bad. The smoke is not a black color it is white. When it feels like it's going to turn off, I have to put it in Neutral then it stops. They did say the fuel pump wasn't bad so I am assuming spark plugs??? What may be causing this problem?
View 3 Replies1988 Acura Legend, 2.7L 6 cyl., 181,000 miles only do 6,500 miles a year to train station, parked inside, runs great. Last week parked out in hot sun, '90s, for 8 hours. At first, no problem. When did errand and returned to car, pushed clutch pedal and it would not return or allow gear to engage. "Jammed" into 1st, then could not shift, shifted slightly by pulling up on clutch pedal with my foot. Parked overnight, cool, next morning seemed to be fine and crept to mechanic. Mechanic road tested and found no problem and now seems to be working okay. Would parking in sun, high heat cause "clutch cylinder" to "seize" or "freeze"? Is there a "fix"? Also, increasingly hard to get parts for this car.
View 6 RepliesI have an 04 MDX it has over 100k on it, and about the time it was approaching that milestone, the transmission started "hesitating" when shifting into overdrive.... then it began to try to shift into overdrive way to early driving in town.... and it felt like we were riding across rumble strips every time it would do this.....We have found out.... that if we do not move the transmission selector lever into the overdrive position, but leave it in D4 [thus manually avoiding the overdrive] it does just fine....
We just suffer in the gas mileage dept., but it does not feel like the transmission is going to fall out while riding in town....My question is; is there a way to disconnect or disable the overdrive so that no matter what gear someone puts it in, it will not try to shift into overdrive by itself.When I am driving it; it is not an issue, I remember to not use overdrive every time; but when the wife or the children drive, they sometimes forget, and I am afraid it is going to do real damage beyond low gas mileage......
I have heard that this is a common problem with this vehicle, and that replacing the transmission is a very short-lived solution, as the problem is design related and will eventually happen again.
So I've got the problem where the engine won't start when it's been driven a while. The engine cranks and starts, but the RPM retards/drops until it reaches 0 after about a second or two.
I've measured voltage to and from the fuel pump relay. It gets 12 volts and spits out 7.5 volts with ignition on and engine not running. This is the correct voltage, so I see no reason to suspect the relay being the culprit. Besides; I can feel the relay clicking and hear the fuel pump working when the problem occurs, meaning that they both should be working fine. That's the conclusion I've reached, let me know if you think I should investigate the relay more thoroughly.
This has led me to start thinking that the ECU is getting some bad input from one of the sensors monitoring the conditions of the engine, resulting in an incorrect fuel mixture.
The first sensor I checked was the coolant temperature sensor, which turned out to be quite correct - a couple of % lower than what the table says it should be. Could this have any effect?
What other sensors are sending important signals to the ECU, possibly contributing to bad fuel mixture? Air Mass? Air Flow? Oxygen Sensor? Are there any vaccuum hoses or idle valve components that could cause this behaviour?
P0300, P0301, P0303, P0305, P0032, P0052, All this happened after the car was being driven at 74 mph all of a sudden it started to stall and had to pull over to unfortunately get a wrecker back home, no previous issues, original owner 2003 camry le v6 now has 230k. I changed the fuel pump/filter, changed the coils, changed the plugs, removed the firewall bank 1 catalytic, looks good still, I do have a video of the car as soon as it got home off the wrecker running rough...
View 2 RepliesI purchased a new 350ES in October 2013. A few months later when I went to start the car after having it sit in garage a day or two, it would not start. Called Lexis Roadside. They jumped it and all is well. I thought perhaps I had left the trunk or a door ajar. There was no evidence I had done so. The dealer gave a multitude of reasons this could have happened. I considered it a fluke and moved on.
Approximately a yr later, same thing. Dealer replaced battery and indicated they don't know why it failed again. About nine mos. later, August 2015, same thing! They again replaced battery but were admittedly very unsure the problem was solved.
Car performed fine since then but it was driven every day. Last week, it sat in my garage exactly 36 hrs. Would not start. Lexus Roadside guy said it has a bad cell. Keep in mind this battery is now about 10 months old!
It is at the Lexus dealer now. First (believe it or not) the service guy told me this is normal and I should get a trickler (sp?) and plug it in at night. What??? When I argued with him, he back pedaled and agreed to allow it to sit on their lot for a few days and see what happens when they try to start it.
The alarming thing is that they seem stymied as to what is causing this electrical failure or how to fix it.
I have a 2003 Saab 9-3 convertible that is having intermittent starting problems. It seems to happen when the car has been driven long distances and the weather is hot or when it is raining. It cranks fine but will not start. When it is hot, I open the hood and it starts after about 10 minutes. When it is wet is starts after being cranked for a white. My mechanic has replaced the ignition cassette and the spark plugs and it has not fixed the problem.
View 4 RepliesI've been noticing recently that my oil pressure gauge has been hanging on "0" until I drive it for awhile, then it will go up to a normal level of around 180-200. It used to register the pressure quicker. The oil level is fine. In fact, I just had my 5K (at 6K) service a month ago.Again I ask, is this normal?
View 2 RepliesMy 1999 Civic, manual trans, 127k, 1.6 4 cyl, has problems starting if the car has been sitting for more than 1 hour. For example, if I go to store for 5 min and start the car, it starts up instantly. Car drives fine and when I "Floor it" Peddle to the floor, i have all the power there. Its just when i start the car after 1 hour of sitting, or over night, it takes a good 5-10 seconds of cranking to start. What could be wrong?
View 7 RepliesI've brought it to the dealer and mechanically, they can find nothing wrong with it. Their hunch is the hood deflector/bug deflector at the front of the car.
It just sounds really embarrassing as the sound is loud and I can hear it in the car with windows closed and no radio. I don't want to take off the deflector because I think it looks good.
This issue has been stumping the mechanics. My wife's HHR has 113,000 miles on it and has been trouble free up to now. The last two months it will suddenly not want to start after being driven for 20 - 30 minutes and then sitting for an hour to 75 minutes. It turns over but won't start. Even more strange if you then wait for a full hour it will start right up. Mechanics are stumped as they cannot duplicate the problem.
View 3 RepliesI have a VE Calais which has not been driven for 2 months now apart from a dead battery the fuel flap wont open (you just push them and it opens when car is unlocked) have opened it slightly and squiterd wd 40 still wont open.
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