Acura - Legend :: Motor Mounts Gone Bad
Apr 7, 2011
I recently found out my motor mounts are bad. Almost a year ago I noticed I was leaking coolant so I just filled it with water every time it was empty. Now I have been getting an overheating problem if it's not filled to the right amount. Just yesterday the problem got worse as there is green gunk at the opening of the radiator and it's always hot. The reservoir is filling up with hot water a lot of the time. My radiator will be empty when that happens. As I was driving the gauge was reading hot. Turning on the heater didn't work much. I tested it tonight, with the radiator full and 2 cups water in reservoir. Drove it a few blocks and turned off car. Radiator had lots of pressure and hot. The reservoir was same level.
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just replaced the timing belt and water pump on my '97 Acura TL. (80k mi), It now vibrates in gear at idle,but runs like a champ above 1000 RPMs. Didn't do it when I took it in. Our trusted mechanic says it's the motor mounts. I say "how do motor mounts go bad overnight?" There are small drips on my driveway under the car.
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My acura legend is now starting to not shift in d4 or d3 after it has been driven for awhile.... It only shifts to 2 and 1.... So I drive it in 2 but it doesn't sound right or drive right I can definitely tell the difference... What is going on what should I do???
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My 1991 Acura Legend LS does not start in cold weather and in the morning. Once it does, it keeps on starting and runs great. Prior to catching and starting it rattles and shakes and when I press the accelerator, it makes sounds like it is not getting enough air. The problem occured abruptly after a mechanic tried to find out why the radiator fan does not come on. That has been fixed by putting a new relay. The car has 176,000 miles and has never given starting problem before.
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My car doors creak very loudly when opening/closing. It's embarrassing. I have tried 3 different sprays: Silicone spray, WD40, and PB Blaster! None of these worked and now I don't know what to do. I'd like to fix minor problems myself instead of always having to go to a mechanic and having them charge me an arm & a leg. The only thing I do notice on the hinges of the doors is rust. I have had this car for 1 1/2 yrs and they've been creaking for about 6 months. I live in the city and nowhere near the ocean or out in the country where you find sand. So I just don't understand why this happened.
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1991 Acura Legend 6 cylinders
For about a week, my car was hard to start, and very sluggish upon acceleration. By Friday, the car was not getting over 20 mph, chugging, and semi-backfiring. I took off the valve covers and found quite a bit of oil in the 2nd cylinder, along with a crude covered ignition coil. I replaced all 6 spark plugs (properly gapped) and bought a new coil for the #2 cylinder. I also replaced the valve cover gaskets, and all 6 rings to prevent more oil seepage. After putting everything back together, making sure wires were correctly aligned, the car will not start. It cranks, but does not turn over. I put the old coil back on, and it did the same thing- crank but no start. Have I lost compression? How can I restore compression? The engine sounds so close to turning over, but not quite there. I'm stumped.
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I have a 91' Acura Legend (lots of miles 179K) and makes a sound of a sick lion/ steel hammer. When I turn it on, automatically it rev's the RPM's to 1.5-2000, and I will usually wait a few minutes before it reduces RPM. When I put it in any gear it will make a pound (like steel) from the hood. When in drive I have to slowly accelerate or the pop continues then follows with a sick almost grinding (like a Lion has a sore throat)sound. If I barely push on the accelerator it will drive slightly normal or (sometimes) slam on the gas. What do you think?
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I have a '93 Acura Legend type 2 which I love. However, last week I jumped it because I don't drive it much, unhooked the jumper cables, let the car run for about 10 minutes; I was ready to go so I turned on the headlights and the car immediately just died, like COMPLETELY. No lights, clicks or any electrical activity of any kind. Complete deathly silence. I assume it's either a main fuse, relay, or else (gulp) a short somewhere.
If this could be a fuse or relay, which one(s) it could be?
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My 87 Acura Legend with 210,00 miles has an automatic transmission slipping problem. Car will not start moving when in the D position (slips), but if i shift manually to 2 , then S3 , it shifts ok except for some shuttering when shifting to D at about 35 mph. It also does not lock into Park when shifting to P position( car will roll when on a hill.) The shift cable and adjustment are ok. The S3 light does not blink and there are no codes stored. The trans fluid was changed 5,000 miles ago and level and condition are both good.( I have only used Honda fluid for the life of the car and change it every other oil change.) I removed the shift solenoids to find all of the screens clean and all solenoids clicked when 12v applied. At this point i realize i probably have an internal problem (possibly bad clutch pack?) My question is why doesn't the parking pin lock? Is this related to the slipping problem?
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OK, so go out to my 1994 Acura Legend, crank it, hear a loud hum that doesn't go away, then bluish smoke appears from under the hood. Immediately shut off the engine and open the hood to release the smoke. Haven't touched it since.
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What is wrong with my car. It drives fine for a while every day then out of the blue starts hesitating and sounding like it wants to shut off when we're at a traffic light. It gets worse when I am making a turn, like it hesitates to pick up speed and starts like sputtering. When my car does this the muffler starts smoking really bad. The smoke is not a black color it is white. When it feels like it's going to turn off, I have to put it in Neutral then it stops. They did say the fuel pump wasn't bad so I am assuming spark plugs??? What may be causing this problem?
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1988 Acura Legend, 2.7L 6 cyl., 181,000 miles only do 6,500 miles a year to train station, parked inside, runs great. Last week parked out in hot sun, '90s, for 8 hours. At first, no problem. When did errand and returned to car, pushed clutch pedal and it would not return or allow gear to engage. "Jammed" into 1st, then could not shift, shifted slightly by pulling up on clutch pedal with my foot. Parked overnight, cool, next morning seemed to be fine and crept to mechanic. Mechanic road tested and found no problem and now seems to be working okay. Would parking in sun, high heat cause "clutch cylinder" to "seize" or "freeze"? Is there a "fix"? Also, increasingly hard to get parts for this car.
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I bought an 89 celica gt back in december of last 2010. and my motor mounts recently went out on me and i was wonder how difficult it would be and exactly how many motor mounts does my car have? I am fairly new to car repair.
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2002 Passat 1.8T 170,000. My motor mounts have been slowly going bad for a few months now and they are now to the point where when I am slowing down as it is shifting down into third, it feels like I am being rear ended. My question is, is this doing damage to my engine and tranny or is it more of an annoyance.
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I have a little vibration from the motor mounts which disappears with an extra soft touch on the gas pedal at idle. If I would keep the car I would change the mounts, but there are a lot of new parts already....I cleaned inside the plenum.....
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I am feeling more vibration at idle than I believe I've felt in the past. I can feel it in the seat more than I remember before. Granted, it's not like the car is shaking or anything, but I can feel it more than I think I should. Could this be the motor mounts?
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I had my motor mounts replaced about 2 weeks ago with APR ones and noticed that vibrates more than before at idle. is this normal? One guy told me that it takes about a month for the new motor mounts to adjust and then it will not vibrate that much. after two weeks no changes. Also I noticed that they did not put the rubber cover on the left motor mount (passenger side) could this missing rubber cover bring any issues on the short term?
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I'm suspecting that my motor mounts are going bad, but I'm not 100% sure. I have a video of the engine movement when slipping the clutch and revving the engine with the e-brake on. [URL]............................... I don't need high performance ones, but don't want to spend a ton on OEM ones either.
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So ever since i put stiffer motors mounts in my car, the trans has whined. It was perfectly fine before the new motor mounts.
Its not nearly as loud as what straight cut gears sound like....but after taking my car on a road trip to Atlantic City this weekend, it does get annoying after a while. Happens every gear but at low RPMS... 1900-3000 RPMS.
4th gear seems to be the worse. This is not my daily driver so i can live with it, but if it was my daily i would be annoyed and probably but the stock mounts back in. While on the road course i do not hear it because i am at high RPMS and the noise isn't really there (well it might get muffled by the sound of the engine but i hear no whine)
I actually hear everything going on in the trans to be honest, i can hear the clutch engaging/disengaging and every move i make with the trans. (i am glad i still have the dual mass because im sure the chatter would be 10 times louder with stiffer mounts)
I run OEM trans fluid... i have heard of some guys running different fluid to quiet it down some...
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I have a 2004 4-cylinder Camry. Saturday I changed the passenger side motor mount which was broken and the front motor mount, which did not appear to be broken, but there was more play in it than in the replacement. I had to take the battery out and the air intake in order to have enough room to remove the front mount. To remove the front mount, I jacked up the engine with a 2 X 4 underneath the oil pan so as not to damage it. The passenger side wheel rose several inches off the ground. After everything was back together, the car ran rough at first but eventually got better. The only symptom that remains is a noise and slight vibration when the car is in drive. In neutral and all other gears there’s no noise or vibration. They noise seems to be slightly less when the car starts to roll, and after a few seconds in motion, I can’t hear it. What’s causing the noise? If there a third motor mount that I may need to replace?
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I have an '05 Dodge Neon SXT (4.0) with 113,000 miles on it. A few days ago, I had three cracked motor mounts replaced. However, I'm experiencing an increased amount of vibration when the engine is idle. I've had the timing belt , the accessory belt, water pump and valve replaced within the last year. I also recently had a coolant flush and an oil change. I was told that the timing belt cover is broken and I intend to have that fixed in the near future. However, I do not believe the timing belt cover is the cause of the vibration since it was broken and did not cause vibration before the motor mounts were replaced. Why I having the vibration?
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