Acura - Legend :: Hesitates When Driving / Sounding Like Wants To Shut Off At Traffic Light
Apr 4, 2013
What is wrong with my car. It drives fine for a while every day then out of the blue starts hesitating and sounding like it wants to shut off when we're at a traffic light. It gets worse when I am making a turn, like it hesitates to pick up speed and starts like sputtering. When my car does this the muffler starts smoking really bad. The smoke is not a black color it is white. When it feels like it's going to turn off, I have to put it in Neutral then it stops. They did say the fuel pump wasn't bad so I am assuming spark plugs??? What may be causing this problem?
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I recently found out my motor mounts are bad. Almost a year ago I noticed I was leaking coolant so I just filled it with water every time it was empty. Now I have been getting an overheating problem if it's not filled to the right amount. Just yesterday the problem got worse as there is green gunk at the opening of the radiator and it's always hot. The reservoir is filling up with hot water a lot of the time. My radiator will be empty when that happens. As I was driving the gauge was reading hot. Turning on the heater didn't work much. I tested it tonight, with the radiator full and 2 cups water in reservoir. Drove it a few blocks and turned off car. Radiator had lots of pressure and hot. The reservoir was same level.
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My acura legend is now starting to not shift in d4 or d3 after it has been driven for awhile.... It only shifts to 2 and 1.... So I drive it in 2 but it doesn't sound right or drive right I can definitely tell the difference... What is going on what should I do???
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My 1991 Acura Legend LS does not start in cold weather and in the morning. Once it does, it keeps on starting and runs great. Prior to catching and starting it rattles and shakes and when I press the accelerator, it makes sounds like it is not getting enough air. The problem occured abruptly after a mechanic tried to find out why the radiator fan does not come on. That has been fixed by putting a new relay. The car has 176,000 miles and has never given starting problem before.
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My car doors creak very loudly when opening/closing. It's embarrassing. I have tried 3 different sprays: Silicone spray, WD40, and PB Blaster! None of these worked and now I don't know what to do. I'd like to fix minor problems myself instead of always having to go to a mechanic and having them charge me an arm & a leg. The only thing I do notice on the hinges of the doors is rust. I have had this car for 1 1/2 yrs and they've been creaking for about 6 months. I live in the city and nowhere near the ocean or out in the country where you find sand. So I just don't understand why this happened.
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1991 Acura Legend 6 cylinders
For about a week, my car was hard to start, and very sluggish upon acceleration. By Friday, the car was not getting over 20 mph, chugging, and semi-backfiring. I took off the valve covers and found quite a bit of oil in the 2nd cylinder, along with a crude covered ignition coil. I replaced all 6 spark plugs (properly gapped) and bought a new coil for the #2 cylinder. I also replaced the valve cover gaskets, and all 6 rings to prevent more oil seepage. After putting everything back together, making sure wires were correctly aligned, the car will not start. It cranks, but does not turn over. I put the old coil back on, and it did the same thing- crank but no start. Have I lost compression? How can I restore compression? The engine sounds so close to turning over, but not quite there. I'm stumped.
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I have a 91' Acura Legend (lots of miles 179K) and makes a sound of a sick lion/ steel hammer. When I turn it on, automatically it rev's the RPM's to 1.5-2000, and I will usually wait a few minutes before it reduces RPM. When I put it in any gear it will make a pound (like steel) from the hood. When in drive I have to slowly accelerate or the pop continues then follows with a sick almost grinding (like a Lion has a sore throat)sound. If I barely push on the accelerator it will drive slightly normal or (sometimes) slam on the gas. What do you think?
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I have a '93 Acura Legend type 2 which I love. However, last week I jumped it because I don't drive it much, unhooked the jumper cables, let the car run for about 10 minutes; I was ready to go so I turned on the headlights and the car immediately just died, like COMPLETELY. No lights, clicks or any electrical activity of any kind. Complete deathly silence. I assume it's either a main fuse, relay, or else (gulp) a short somewhere.
If this could be a fuse or relay, which one(s) it could be?
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My 87 Acura Legend with 210,00 miles has an automatic transmission slipping problem. Car will not start moving when in the D position (slips), but if i shift manually to 2 , then S3 , it shifts ok except for some shuttering when shifting to D at about 35 mph. It also does not lock into Park when shifting to P position( car will roll when on a hill.) The shift cable and adjustment are ok. The S3 light does not blink and there are no codes stored. The trans fluid was changed 5,000 miles ago and level and condition are both good.( I have only used Honda fluid for the life of the car and change it every other oil change.) I removed the shift solenoids to find all of the screens clean and all solenoids clicked when 12v applied. At this point i realize i probably have an internal problem (possibly bad clutch pack?) My question is why doesn't the parking pin lock? Is this related to the slipping problem?
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OK, so go out to my 1994 Acura Legend, crank it, hear a loud hum that doesn't go away, then bluish smoke appears from under the hood. Immediately shut off the engine and open the hood to release the smoke. Haven't touched it since.
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1988 Acura Legend, 2.7L 6 cyl., 181,000 miles only do 6,500 miles a year to train station, parked inside, runs great. Last week parked out in hot sun, '90s, for 8 hours. At first, no problem. When did errand and returned to car, pushed clutch pedal and it would not return or allow gear to engage. "Jammed" into 1st, then could not shift, shifted slightly by pulling up on clutch pedal with my foot. Parked overnight, cool, next morning seemed to be fine and crept to mechanic. Mechanic road tested and found no problem and now seems to be working okay. Would parking in sun, high heat cause "clutch cylinder" to "seize" or "freeze"? Is there a "fix"? Also, increasingly hard to get parts for this car.
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My Car when it comes to a traffic light, wants to lurch just a bit, as I sit waiting for the light to change, I don't know whether it will stall, and also the RPM wants to rev on its own a little when I first get into the car to start it, and also while I am waiting at stoplights.
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I have a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. I took it to the dealership on June 30, for a routine oil change and other maintenance that was due. They did a cooling system flush, and oil change, a power steering flush, and a brake system flush, along with a multipoint inspection, and replaced the belt and tensioner. On July 18 on my way to work in traffic, the vehicle completely shut down with no warning signals. Shortly after the check engine light, the oil light came on. Until then, I had not noticed any warning lights.
At this time I reached down to get a bottle of tea from the passenger front floor board and noticed a slightly oily pink brown liquid on the plastic floor mat. When it was towed to the dealership, they tore the engine apart and reported that the engine overheated, the valve seats came off, the valves hit the pistons splashing metal onto the cylinder walls and requiring an engine rebuild. Is the dealership responsible for not having discovered whatever problem caused the engine to break down? Or causing it somehow during the maintenance on June 30? They feel it is not related.
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Was in town stopped at a traffic light when my 2003 Santa Fe just shut off. No warning, started right back up again, no CEL, no DTCs. Scary. I'm happy it happened with me driving the car instead of my daughter driving. Also happy it didn't happen on the highway.
I've had hard starting issues for a while now. Replaced crank sensor, it's fine for a few starts, then goes back to hard starting, but I hadn't had a problem in a few weeks.
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So the check system light went on after driving 30 minutes then hitting traffic. Would it be possible that it's the TPMS telling me the tire pressure is low? The tires i have are 245 30 and 285 25..the psi on both tires on the driver side are at 30 and the passenger side are both at 33. could that be the reason? What the recommended PSI is for tires that size?
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Every few weeks my Acura TL 08 loses power while driving. I am able to brake, stop, then restart the engine. A dealer mechanic drove the thing for a week trying to replicate the problem. Another garage has done a bunch of usual diags. We replaced the ignition switch. Still happening, with no obvious pattern.
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My 1998 Acura RL just shut off while entering the garage. The engine shut off, and the battery and engine lights remained on. An attempt to restart the car without taking the key out of the ignition did not work (no sound). Taking the key out of the ignition and restarting it worked like normal.
Occasionally the car makes a loud sound right after starting, which resembled a cross between a honk and a grinding sound. I'm not sure if this is related.
I would rather the car not stop mid-drive on a busy street or the highway.
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Recently with sunny days, 25-30 degrees celsius, my late 06' CRDI Santa Fe starts to shut off while in the traffic jam. After engine restart car runs fine while idling but after i put in Drive (its a 5 speed AT) it shuts off again. After 2-3 restarts i may able to pull my car aside the road and let it cool. One other thing i have noticed is the temperature gauge. The needle is sitting slightly under middle mark and my torque app shows 114-115 degrees celsius ? It is pretty high dont you think ? Sometimes its over the middle bar and then my OBD torque app shows 120 degrees. I would exclude Crankshaft position sensor, because car restarts just fine, if it was CPS then it should not start for a while?
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I have 2010 Toyota Camry, whose battery was replaced about 2 months ago. The oil was changed about a month ago also. Two days ago i was driving out of my gyms parking garage and 5 minutes into the drive my car completely shut off in the middle of traffic. It happened as soon as i hung up the phone while talking to my husband on a car speaker system. The car would not turn on, my dashboard looked like a rainbow with all the warning lights on, the windows worked, there was no sound coming from the car even when i tried to turn it on. I called AAA to have a wrecker move my car from the middle of traffic, and they stated there were no available wreckers, that i would have to wait 2 hours...so finally push the car into a drive way. So about 20 minutes pass by while I am waiting for my husband, and all the sudden I am able to turn my car on. I drove my car all the way home with my husband behind me ( 30 minute drive) with no problems. I still haven't had a problem but now I am paranoid that it might happen again.
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So leaving work yesterday I noticed my coolant light was on. I checked the coolant level and it was like under an inch below the min level.
I decided to try to drive it a few miles to the dealership for coolant, keeping an eye on the temperature. When taking the exit to get to the dealership the car shut off and the battery light came on. I started it back up and it ran fine the remaining 50 feet until I got to the dealer. I parked it in the service lane and checked the coolant again and it I had almost no coolant in the resevior. I'm almost sure I need a waterpump, which was my first assumption the second I started the car. What I'm wondering is why the car shut off while driving. The engine temperature didn't change the whole way there but I'm wondering if it could be that the car thought it could soon over heat, so it cut the power, or if it could be something else.
The car is a stage 2 2013 GTI with 24k miles.
TLDR~ Can a mk6 gti that is low on coolant shut itself off the protect itself from overheating? Could coolant have leaked onto something to make it shut off? Or do you think it would be for another reason?
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I have a 2007 Explorer with around 79,000 miles on it and it has been in for assorted repairs over the last 6 months. Cooling issues, Losing all Coolant, Rough sounding engine, Stalling while driving, The mechanic has said they replaced much of everything each time I take it in. But now it was in for a fuel pump and while they were test driving it he said the Internal balance Shaft exploded and shrapnel is in the engine. His solution replace the engine with a 2008 has 38k on it for $2K. Does this sound right?
Do these Explorers have issues like this?
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