Acura - Legend :: All Doors Creak Very Loudly When Opening / Closing
Feb 20, 2013
My car doors creak very loudly when opening/closing. It's embarrassing. I have tried 3 different sprays: Silicone spray, WD40, and PB Blaster! None of these worked and now I don't know what to do. I'd like to fix minor problems myself instead of always having to go to a mechanic and having them charge me an arm & a leg. The only thing I do notice on the hinges of the doors is rust. I have had this car for 1 1/2 yrs and they've been creaking for about 6 months. I live in the city and nowhere near the ocean or out in the country where you find sand. So I just don't understand why this happened.
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I have a Toyota Prius 2008 and my key fob has stopped opening and closing the doors. It's one where I can open and close the door using the buttons on the key fob but does not open or start the car from a distance.
Anyway, it stopped working. My wife's works fine. I tried changing the battery and tested both batteries on a battery tester and that showed full charge on both. When I place the battery into the fob, the red light on the remote flashes for some time then stops. It doesn't flash when I press any of the three keys. And the car will start and run fine with the fob.
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I recently found out my motor mounts are bad. Almost a year ago I noticed I was leaking coolant so I just filled it with water every time it was empty. Now I have been getting an overheating problem if it's not filled to the right amount. Just yesterday the problem got worse as there is green gunk at the opening of the radiator and it's always hot. The reservoir is filling up with hot water a lot of the time. My radiator will be empty when that happens. As I was driving the gauge was reading hot. Turning on the heater didn't work much. I tested it tonight, with the radiator full and 2 cups water in reservoir. Drove it a few blocks and turned off car. Radiator had lots of pressure and hot. The reservoir was same level.
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My acura legend is now starting to not shift in d4 or d3 after it has been driven for awhile.... It only shifts to 2 and 1.... So I drive it in 2 but it doesn't sound right or drive right I can definitely tell the difference... What is going on what should I do???
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My 1991 Acura Legend LS does not start in cold weather and in the morning. Once it does, it keeps on starting and runs great. Prior to catching and starting it rattles and shakes and when I press the accelerator, it makes sounds like it is not getting enough air. The problem occured abruptly after a mechanic tried to find out why the radiator fan does not come on. That has been fixed by putting a new relay. The car has 176,000 miles and has never given starting problem before.
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1991 Acura Legend 6 cylinders
For about a week, my car was hard to start, and very sluggish upon acceleration. By Friday, the car was not getting over 20 mph, chugging, and semi-backfiring. I took off the valve covers and found quite a bit of oil in the 2nd cylinder, along with a crude covered ignition coil. I replaced all 6 spark plugs (properly gapped) and bought a new coil for the #2 cylinder. I also replaced the valve cover gaskets, and all 6 rings to prevent more oil seepage. After putting everything back together, making sure wires were correctly aligned, the car will not start. It cranks, but does not turn over. I put the old coil back on, and it did the same thing- crank but no start. Have I lost compression? How can I restore compression? The engine sounds so close to turning over, but not quite there. I'm stumped.
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I have a 91' Acura Legend (lots of miles 179K) and makes a sound of a sick lion/ steel hammer. When I turn it on, automatically it rev's the RPM's to 1.5-2000, and I will usually wait a few minutes before it reduces RPM. When I put it in any gear it will make a pound (like steel) from the hood. When in drive I have to slowly accelerate or the pop continues then follows with a sick almost grinding (like a Lion has a sore throat)sound. If I barely push on the accelerator it will drive slightly normal or (sometimes) slam on the gas. What do you think?
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I have a '93 Acura Legend type 2 which I love. However, last week I jumped it because I don't drive it much, unhooked the jumper cables, let the car run for about 10 minutes; I was ready to go so I turned on the headlights and the car immediately just died, like COMPLETELY. No lights, clicks or any electrical activity of any kind. Complete deathly silence. I assume it's either a main fuse, relay, or else (gulp) a short somewhere.
If this could be a fuse or relay, which one(s) it could be?
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My 87 Acura Legend with 210,00 miles has an automatic transmission slipping problem. Car will not start moving when in the D position (slips), but if i shift manually to 2 , then S3 , it shifts ok except for some shuttering when shifting to D at about 35 mph. It also does not lock into Park when shifting to P position( car will roll when on a hill.) The shift cable and adjustment are ok. The S3 light does not blink and there are no codes stored. The trans fluid was changed 5,000 miles ago and level and condition are both good.( I have only used Honda fluid for the life of the car and change it every other oil change.) I removed the shift solenoids to find all of the screens clean and all solenoids clicked when 12v applied. At this point i realize i probably have an internal problem (possibly bad clutch pack?) My question is why doesn't the parking pin lock? Is this related to the slipping problem?
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OK, so go out to my 1994 Acura Legend, crank it, hear a loud hum that doesn't go away, then bluish smoke appears from under the hood. Immediately shut off the engine and open the hood to release the smoke. Haven't touched it since.
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What is wrong with my car. It drives fine for a while every day then out of the blue starts hesitating and sounding like it wants to shut off when we're at a traffic light. It gets worse when I am making a turn, like it hesitates to pick up speed and starts like sputtering. When my car does this the muffler starts smoking really bad. The smoke is not a black color it is white. When it feels like it's going to turn off, I have to put it in Neutral then it stops. They did say the fuel pump wasn't bad so I am assuming spark plugs??? What may be causing this problem?
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1988 Acura Legend, 2.7L 6 cyl., 181,000 miles only do 6,500 miles a year to train station, parked inside, runs great. Last week parked out in hot sun, '90s, for 8 hours. At first, no problem. When did errand and returned to car, pushed clutch pedal and it would not return or allow gear to engage. "Jammed" into 1st, then could not shift, shifted slightly by pulling up on clutch pedal with my foot. Parked overnight, cool, next morning seemed to be fine and crept to mechanic. Mechanic road tested and found no problem and now seems to be working okay. Would parking in sun, high heat cause "clutch cylinder" to "seize" or "freeze"? Is there a "fix"? Also, increasingly hard to get parts for this car.
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So lately I have noticed that my front doors have quite a bit of noise in them when opening and closing. I went to the store and purchased some grease it toned it down a little but the noise it still there. I know the noise is coming the bar that goes inside the door. Is there some that keep the door quiet? My door are not bent at all.
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It's a '99 Montana EWB.
OK, I know I have an issue with clean water entering the cabin and depositing itself in the channel next to the driver's side rocker where a fair number of wires are located. It filled with water last fall and I dried it out and never thought too much more about it, but knew there was water coming in somewhere. At first I thought it was the AC, but the drain is clear and running.
It's similar to the damned TSB Bulletin No.: 01-08-45-005E that is a sticky here on the forum.
This time however, I didn't check for water in the fall and this morning in a blinding snow storm at 14F the power sliding door acted up 5 minutes before my wife left for work. By the time she got to work the damned TCS and ABS idiot lights came on, and she says the sliding door attempted to open, but she got it to close.
Now the van is 20 miles away and I won't be able to look at it until I can get it home and try to dry it out again. In the driveway in a snow storm!!!
If GM had been a little more specific about the root cause of water issues mentioned in the TSB, it would make life and fixing this problem that much easier.
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I have just purchased a second hand Lexus Rx300. The boot isn't opening or closing automatically. It just beeps twice and makes a noise like it's trying to do something but that's as much as I get ?
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In my 2014 Sonato Turbo model, I notice the sound of a vent opening and closing while driving. This is noticed when starting to drive or if the car has been placed in park while idling. My wife drives this car primarily so, I really can't tell when it started or if it has always done it. I have wondered if it has something to do with keeping fumes out of the car maybe. One thing I have noticed though is that it sometimes seems to also make the noise if you hit a bump.
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In an earlier thread, I talked about my roof stalling at the end of an opening or a closing operation. I just returned from a 260 mile round trip to the Lexus dealer to address this problem and get some other maintenance done..
To recap the problem, the roof appears to complete the opening or closing operation but won't finish it by turning off the red light on the switch. The switch then won't respond to either open or close. The roof stalls. It does this about 1 in every 10 or 12 open/close cycles.
Of course, if you drive the car with the red light still lit, you're treated to a chime when you go over about 5 MPH. Also, your trunk is locked.
I repeatedly re-try the switch of course, but without success. I eventually restart the car. Either the switch recovers or restarting does the trick, because so far I've been able to get the switch to work again. I would assume the stall will eventually stop being intermittent.
So, I talked with the Lexus service tech and he said he is very familiar with the SC roof. After hearing the symptoms, he quickly diagnosed a failing proximity switch. He was confident they could diagnose the problem.
So, I was due for the timing belt replacement and decided I'd have Lexus address both issues.
As I suspected, they need to catch the roof stalling to diagnose it. And guess what: They could not get the roof to stall. When the tech called to say my car was ready, I was disappointed my roof could not be fixed. The tech really did not know much about the proximity switches, like how many are in the roof. When I asked, he said replacing them all would be expensive and they did not believe one switch could be identified as the culprit from the description of symptoms.
So, here I am back 130 miles from the dealer with a tricky roof. I am thinking I will find out whether any local mechanic (Toyota or an independent) can find and fix the bad switch when it does fail.
Fortunately for the rest of you, the tech says this is not a common problem. I am aware of the manual operations to raise the roof, but really hope I don't have to go there!
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My 08 gs350 makes a clicking noise when you open the doors really wide and again as you close it. I've tightened all the screws around the door check... Also lubed it as good as possible.
Could it be something to do with the door check pin? How do you replace it?
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On my is, I can remotely open and close the windows and sunroof with my key, by holding the buttons for several seconds.
I seem to remember that this function was engaged by my dealership. however i do not like this function, as I always carry my key in my pocket, and have several times opened the windows by accident because the key button have been pressed while i have the key inside my pocket.
I want disengage this function, preferably without visiting my dealership. Any step by step manual or how to do instruction? Does not say anything about how to do this in the cars manual.
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SE with Nav & Sunroof, when opening & closing Tilt the motor vibrates and the hinges squeak, after the dealer apparently lubricated the s/roof the squeaking etc is still happening..
The service manager says it's the rubber water seals closing or pulling apart! he says that after lubrication just 1car wash will enable the squeaking to return!!!!!
He also says that the trunk on my wife's 2012 Jetta should not fully pop open when using the keyfob, buy it popped fully open for 2 months - now it's just lifts a little..did VW reprogram via the internet? or whats the story...........
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My jeep liberty 2002 has been sitting for two weeks. Noticed rear door latch opening and closing. So I unhooked battery. I figured battery was dead tried to hook charge to it but it keep discharging kicking off charger. Whats going on? Tried jumping but it was still discharging?
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