Acura - Legend :: 1991 LS Does Not Start In Cold Weather And In The Morning
Dec 27, 2012
My 1991 Acura Legend LS does not start in cold weather and in the morning. Once it does, it keeps on starting and runs great. Prior to catching and starting it rattles and shakes and when I press the accelerator, it makes sounds like it is not getting enough air. The problem occured abruptly after a mechanic tried to find out why the radiator fan does not come on. That has been fixed by putting a new relay. The car has 176,000 miles and has never given starting problem before.
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1991 Acura Legend 6 cylinders
For about a week, my car was hard to start, and very sluggish upon acceleration. By Friday, the car was not getting over 20 mph, chugging, and semi-backfiring. I took off the valve covers and found quite a bit of oil in the 2nd cylinder, along with a crude covered ignition coil. I replaced all 6 spark plugs (properly gapped) and bought a new coil for the #2 cylinder. I also replaced the valve cover gaskets, and all 6 rings to prevent more oil seepage. After putting everything back together, making sure wires were correctly aligned, the car will not start. It cranks, but does not turn over. I put the old coil back on, and it did the same thing- crank but no start. Have I lost compression? How can I restore compression? The engine sounds so close to turning over, but not quite there. I'm stumped.
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I recently found out my motor mounts are bad. Almost a year ago I noticed I was leaking coolant so I just filled it with water every time it was empty. Now I have been getting an overheating problem if it's not filled to the right amount. Just yesterday the problem got worse as there is green gunk at the opening of the radiator and it's always hot. The reservoir is filling up with hot water a lot of the time. My radiator will be empty when that happens. As I was driving the gauge was reading hot. Turning on the heater didn't work much. I tested it tonight, with the radiator full and 2 cups water in reservoir. Drove it a few blocks and turned off car. Radiator had lots of pressure and hot. The reservoir was same level.
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My acura legend is now starting to not shift in d4 or d3 after it has been driven for awhile.... It only shifts to 2 and 1.... So I drive it in 2 but it doesn't sound right or drive right I can definitely tell the difference... What is going on what should I do???
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I have a 2004 Sienna LE and it has left/right signal problem (not working) in the morning or when the weather is cold. The problem usually last for about 5 to 10 minutes until the inside car temperature becomes warm.
When this problem happens the emergency lights are working. Only the signal left and right do not work.
Is this a common Sienna problems? I brought the car to the dealer but they refused to fix it because they cannot duplicate the problem. I am guessing when the warranty has expired, they will make suggestion to replace the part but not until then.
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My car doors creak very loudly when opening/closing. It's embarrassing. I have tried 3 different sprays: Silicone spray, WD40, and PB Blaster! None of these worked and now I don't know what to do. I'd like to fix minor problems myself instead of always having to go to a mechanic and having them charge me an arm & a leg. The only thing I do notice on the hinges of the doors is rust. I have had this car for 1 1/2 yrs and they've been creaking for about 6 months. I live in the city and nowhere near the ocean or out in the country where you find sand. So I just don't understand why this happened.
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I have a 91' Acura Legend (lots of miles 179K) and makes a sound of a sick lion/ steel hammer. When I turn it on, automatically it rev's the RPM's to 1.5-2000, and I will usually wait a few minutes before it reduces RPM. When I put it in any gear it will make a pound (like steel) from the hood. When in drive I have to slowly accelerate or the pop continues then follows with a sick almost grinding (like a Lion has a sore throat)sound. If I barely push on the accelerator it will drive slightly normal or (sometimes) slam on the gas. What do you think?
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I have a '93 Acura Legend type 2 which I love. However, last week I jumped it because I don't drive it much, unhooked the jumper cables, let the car run for about 10 minutes; I was ready to go so I turned on the headlights and the car immediately just died, like COMPLETELY. No lights, clicks or any electrical activity of any kind. Complete deathly silence. I assume it's either a main fuse, relay, or else (gulp) a short somewhere.
If this could be a fuse or relay, which one(s) it could be?
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My 87 Acura Legend with 210,00 miles has an automatic transmission slipping problem. Car will not start moving when in the D position (slips), but if i shift manually to 2 , then S3 , it shifts ok except for some shuttering when shifting to D at about 35 mph. It also does not lock into Park when shifting to P position( car will roll when on a hill.) The shift cable and adjustment are ok. The S3 light does not blink and there are no codes stored. The trans fluid was changed 5,000 miles ago and level and condition are both good.( I have only used Honda fluid for the life of the car and change it every other oil change.) I removed the shift solenoids to find all of the screens clean and all solenoids clicked when 12v applied. At this point i realize i probably have an internal problem (possibly bad clutch pack?) My question is why doesn't the parking pin lock? Is this related to the slipping problem?
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OK, so go out to my 1994 Acura Legend, crank it, hear a loud hum that doesn't go away, then bluish smoke appears from under the hood. Immediately shut off the engine and open the hood to release the smoke. Haven't touched it since.
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What is wrong with my car. It drives fine for a while every day then out of the blue starts hesitating and sounding like it wants to shut off when we're at a traffic light. It gets worse when I am making a turn, like it hesitates to pick up speed and starts like sputtering. When my car does this the muffler starts smoking really bad. The smoke is not a black color it is white. When it feels like it's going to turn off, I have to put it in Neutral then it stops. They did say the fuel pump wasn't bad so I am assuming spark plugs??? What may be causing this problem?
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1988 Acura Legend, 2.7L 6 cyl., 181,000 miles only do 6,500 miles a year to train station, parked inside, runs great. Last week parked out in hot sun, '90s, for 8 hours. At first, no problem. When did errand and returned to car, pushed clutch pedal and it would not return or allow gear to engage. "Jammed" into 1st, then could not shift, shifted slightly by pulling up on clutch pedal with my foot. Parked overnight, cool, next morning seemed to be fine and crept to mechanic. Mechanic road tested and found no problem and now seems to be working okay. Would parking in sun, high heat cause "clutch cylinder" to "seize" or "freeze"? Is there a "fix"? Also, increasingly hard to get parts for this car.
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I have a 91 Miata Auto. I bought it from someone that (I think!) never drain auto trans fluid during its 145K mile life. So last year I replaced all the gaskets/filters and tuned up the car. It runs fine except shifting harsh in cold weather. I have to mention that it seem to have no power and goes very slow on first few minutes.I used a pump to suck trans fluid out. It was so dark (even I dropped the trans pan and replaced filter/gasket). Then I pumped Lucas trans fix fluid in and it seem to improve. What should I do more to reduce the harsh shift condition in cold weather? Or is there a booster module need to be replaced?
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1991 honda crx si - starts fine when weather and engine is cold but lately giving me trouble starting when it is warm [above 80] and engine is cold [has not been driven for several hours].
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Just bought a 1994 Camry Station Wagon, 84,000 km (53,000 miles) in very good condition. The two pre-owners used to keep car in garage inside the house, I keep the Camry out on the street.
Currently, I am experiencing the following problem: When it is cold outside (this is 20 to 25 degrees F), the car would not start the other morning. Everything inside the car is working (i.e. lights, radio, fan, sunroof etc.), a sign that battery is in good shape. Before buying the car, the owner replaced all the expendable parts you can imagine. Once it is getting warmer, the car would start perfectly well.
In the Consumer Guide I read the following about starting problems in the trouble spots section (referring to the 1992-1996 Camry series): "Hard starting: Hard starting after cold soak is due to ignition-coil voltage leaking to an inappropriate ground." All models, not a specific year.
On this thread I just found a comment posted on Jan. 31, 2004 by "yotatechie04", saying that - obviously - a similar problem occured to him on a 1999 model, and he found it had to do with "oil density".
Question: Is hard starting - for example after a cold night - a well known problem to 1994 model? What about the hint regarding "ignition-coil voltage leaking" and "oil density". What can be done?
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Last week, my Mazda 6 wagon would not start ... Jumped by auto club, and told the right battery cable was not tightly connected to battery. Car was ok for 2 days... Then same thing, it would not start, jumped again, battery was ok per auto club. Car ran for one day, then jumped again and brought to mechanic. Mechanic has had 24 hours, replaced new battery and cable connection... still not starting consistently with cold weather???
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When I start my car from a cold start - mostly in the AM, the car hesitates to start - but always starts. But the check engine light comes on along with the Vehicle Stability Assist indicator light and the VSA Activation Indicator lights come on. If I let the car warm up and then shut it off and restart, all lights go off except the check engine light. After two or three stops and starts (shut off and restart) the check engine light goes off.
I took it too the dealer and they said the computer indicated the cooling system had a malfunction. They did a pressure test on the system which indicated a leak. However, they could not find any coolant leaking from the radiator or belts. They only conclusion they could come to is that the head gasket "might" be cracked. The oil has not indication that the coolant is leaking into the oil.
There is no smoke coming from the tail pipes. So they said they think the exhaust is leaking into the radiator and forcing the coolant into the coolant reservoir thus leading to the engine to "overheat". BUT the engine is not overheating. if it is a cracked head gasket, will additives to the radiator such as Steelseal or blue devil really work?
2003 Acura TLS V6 engine....
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I'm experiencing vibration somewhere under the hood during start. I recently replaced the serp. belt and think it could be over-tensioned.
Possible?
Dangerous?
Or just the new belt needs to stretch?
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I'm getting a gas smell when I start the car in the morning-especially if its cold. I typically blow the defroster which only makes it worse. It seems to be worse when its colder out and does not happen as the day goes on. My mechanic has checked for leaks-none. I thought it might be an oxygen sensor(?), he does not think so.
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Every now and then I have rattling noise when trying to start on a cold start in the morning. Mainly just sounds like a dry start. Battery is good, oil is full (high mileage Valvoline 5W20). Ive tried 5W-30 and it didn't do anything, just made the mpgs about 1 less.
Ive had the car fixed for the main TSB issue with the starter/camshaft so that is not it, which caused a full on grinding noise.
Everyday commuter car, use 87 chevron gas always, and I just used Lucas gas additive the last two fill ups (used normally every 1k miles) and still getting the noise every now and then in the morning. Are there any better injector cleaners out there?
Should I get the fuel injectors fully 3step cleaned? when talking to the service rep at brake-masters, they stated that I should use 91 premium gas to work with dry starts to burn off extra carbon buildup. Wasn't sure if that was a good idea for a 09 corolla S?
93k miles, new spark plugs last week, oil changes every 3k.
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My 96 mercedes c280 will not start in the winter. I moved from florida to ohio and when it gets close to freezing or below my car will not start. The lights on rear view mirror (immobilizer lights) blink for 30 sec. I have to wait any where from 5-30 min. to start car depending on how cold it is, otherwise car runs great.
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