Acura - Integra :: Pop Up Headlight Dash Battery Light Warning Intermittently Comes On
May 21, 2016
1987 Acura IntegraI noticed that the pop up headlight dash warning light intermittently comes on when the engine is running. Now Battery light (charging light) and pop up headlight warning lights are coming on simultaneously (still intermittent) when the engine is running.
Battery is new. Headlights (and pops up) are working. High beam is working. Parts store used their meter to test the battery and alternator - it passed - however, their equipment initially did not detect the battery voltage - I was told that it needs to be repaired - but when the engine was running, he was able to do the test - it passed all the test.
There is a separate switch to just to pop the headlight - when I push the switch, it makes the sound as if it begins to pop but there is a hesitation and then it fully pops it up (only issue that I can observe) - whereas when I turn the headlight on, it properly pops it up and turns the headlight on - whether engine is running or not.
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The check engine light on my 1997 Integra (LS, 119K miles) has come on for the second time. Including background below.
Incident #1: Carin mid-June, the car sputtered or shook a bit when starting and the check engine light came on.The car had been sitting in the garage only about a day. Codes were P0303 (Cyl 3), 0304 (Cyl 4), P1399 (multiple misfire), P1300 (random Cyl misfiring). The p0303 code set at 1600 rpm & at 75F degrees. Misfire code set during warm-up. The shop performed block test (came negative). Compression tests show 1, 2, 4 at 200 psi & 3 at 190 psi. The shop replaced spark plugs & inspected plug wires & connectors as well. Valve clearance adjustments also were done. The shop cleared the engine light code.
Incident #2: Last week (early Aug), the car again sputtered & shook when trying to start (had been sitting in the garage for about 2.5 days). Showed signs of low or dead battery but started after cranking a few times. The check engine light came on again. Codes (checked at home using the jump method) indicate Cyl 1 & 3 misfire.
Will be taking to the shop for the diagnosis again but wondering if it is battery or ignition related; shop doesn't suspect the battery, however, I do sense that the battery 'feels' weak esp. when starting. New battery put in May. What could be going on?
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I have Acura 1996 3.2 and its a great car but about 2 months ago the Check engine light is on and when i try to accelerate on highway or just on high speed it wont go in the next gear at the moment but when I am gonna press the pedal harder suddenly it will accelerate in a second. Also when I am standing on the traffic light the dashboard starts shaking and its a feeling like a car is going to turn off. Its an automatic. And this happens more frequently when the tank is full.
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1987 Acura Integra 165k... After parking the car, and turning off the engine, and locked the car, the brake light continue to stay on for about 10mins - then goes off on its on.What seems to be the problem - easy to fix?
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2010 F150 XLT 4.6 3 V
No leaks
New pads and rotors
Intermittent BRAKE (red) light in dash , no other symptoms
Brakes work fine, mechanic is baffled
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Just bought my first F150. 1998 XLT 4.6l automatic. 126K miles, looks like it was mostly garage kept. All power, A/C, etc.
Picked it up this evening, drove it home after dark. About a 30 mile mostly highway speed drive. Everything went fine, no problems, no hiccups......Until I turned on my last street, about a half mile from home. The battery indicator light on the dash started blinking intermittently. I didn't notice anything else, just the red battery shaped light blinking.
What would cause this, what should I check? I don't want a big problem when I haven't even transferred the title yet!
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I've seen lots of posts about the traction battery regarding cooling fan speeds, sensors, overheating, under charged, but is there a dash light that warns the batteries are overheating before they are damaged ? I'm worried about someone riding in the back of the car, covering the vent and causing battery damage. It is hard to see if they are covering the vents when you are sitting in the front driver seat.
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I have an 88 acura integra and the problim is that once in a while it would not start after it had been running. If I let it sit for 5 min it would start. Now it is happening everyday. One time it will start great and run fine, but when I turn it off I don't know if it will start again. I checked the gas and it is getting gas and the pressure is fine, but when it last happened it would turn over but wouldn't start for the rest of the day, I checked and it had no spark. After I replaced the ignition control mod and rotor, it started on the second try but when i got to work and turned it off the same thing. I let it sit for a while (about 15 min) and it started. Like I said after it starts it runs great, lots of power, no missing or any thing.
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Lately, my 1990 Integra has been idling VERY low. Some mornings, while idling at a stop, the rpms fluctuate up and down to the point where it almost dies. Is it just cold? I live in coastal San Diego, so it's not freezing here. This morning, had to keep my foot on the gas to keep the car from stalling before getting home from dropping son off at school. It died in the driveway. Started up just fine right afterwards, but idled down to nothing. Now it idles okay, but at a pretty low rpms, like usual. NOW, the battery, a SEARS Diehard Silver, is near the end of its usable life. Prorated 84,000 mile replacement warranty, but I have had it for 8.5 years and have 1 82,000 miles on it. YES! I have been meaning to replace it, as it is leaking some nasty stuff at the terminals, but wonder if the weird idling is a symptom of something else, since the car still turns over.
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I just bought a 95 Acura Integra from Canada. I haven't driven it in a few weeks. It has a lot of stuff in it. An aftermarket engine and intake. Also aftermarket speakers and stereo. It has blue lights installed by the pedals. Now it won't start. I got stuck in town the other day. Whats wrong? I really love this car. Awesome body kit and everything. I don't wanna sell it!
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I have a 1996 Acura Integra with manual transmission. It has only 113K miles on it. I put on only 6K to 7.5K miles a year. I have owned the car since it was new & have always changed the oil & oil filter myself. Until about 3 years ago I changed the oil & filter 4 times a year--roughly about every 2K miles. Three years ago I reduced the number of oil changes to 3 times per year. Recently it was suggested to me that even that was too many and that I should change the oil & filter every 6 months. To be honest I am not comfortable with that but I also realize that my discomfort may simply come from habit. I have changed the oil & filter every 2K on every car that I have owned since I was a teenager. I should tell you that I am 80 years old and live on my savings & a pension. To replace this car would cost me between $25K to $30K so it is to my advantage to keep the car on the road for as long as I can. In short will I be doing any harm to the engine by changing the oil every 6 months?
A second question that I have about oil is that it is becoming increasingly more & more difficult to buy a high quality brand of conventional motor oil. When I shop I have been finding that the better engine oils, Castrol GTX, for example, do not offer much of a selection when it comes to conventional motor oil. In fact conventional motor oil is their cheapest oil. Most of the varieties of oil that they offer are blends of conventional motor oil & synthetic oil. I have heard conflicting statements about switching from conventional oil to synthetic oil. Some say it is dangerous to do and that it should not be done while others say that it does no harm. But what about switching to a blend of conventional oil & synthetic oil? Will that cause any damage to the engine?
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2000 Acura Integra Auto ... Replaced the radiator through Kragen (O'Reilly)Didn't come with a cap - using the existing one.If you tighten it, it goes around through 360 degrees ...
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Once a week or so my car doesn't start right away after I have driven some where, such as to get coffee, the library, or shirts from the cleaners, It makes noise as if it will start, but then gives up. If I sit and wait patiently -- doing nothing for 15 to 20 minutes or so, it will start. The mechanics have checked it over several times, but can't figure out what's wrong. They suggested putting in a new engine relay a week and half ago. Since then, the problem has happened twice.
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I recently had my oil &filter changed on my 01 integra at the dealer and was told that my oil pan gasket has started to leak. Car has 180k on it, and has no engine leaks.Seems like steep price for the repair $340.00 for the oil pan gasket. Is this repair really worth doing on a 12yr old car or is this just a normal thing that happens w/ age. Also Oil is not leaking on the ground and has no leaks around the engine. Iam only adding 1qt. of oil every 3k.
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My 2000 Integra with 180,000 miles that never gave me a moment of trouble, stalled at a stop sign and hasn't started since. The info:
1. Engine cranks
2. Check Engine light comes on and then goes off after a few seconds (assume no error code)
3. Removing a spark plug shows spark
4. All fuses ok
5. Fuel pump relay ok
6. Removed fuel filter, turned on ignition (not trying to crank), fuel is coming through. There isn't much pressure, the fuel comes out like a water fountain. I assume the fuel pump is ok.
My thinking is that I either don't have spark or I don't have fuel. The spark looks ok. The fuel pump is moving fuel, I don't know if the pump can fail in a way that moves fuel but at too low a pressure. Is there another device, in the fuel delivery system, between the pump and the cylinder that I can check?
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My 1990 Acura Integra is on her 4th timing belt...still going strong after 25 years! Long ago, I was told by the people who worked on my car that it was best to replace the Timing Belt every 60K. My Manual says inspect at 60K but replace at 90K.I typically have changed it at around 65K....and now it is a bit beyond the 65K mark for this timing belt ( also do the water pump, etc) as the car is now at 262,327 miles.I am tempted to wait a bit longer, as it is not even close to the 90K mark.
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Yesterday after driving my 1990 Integra ~ 25 min (Fwy), upon parking at the Farmers Market, I noticed the Fan running, which it usually NEVER does, unless there are impending issues (like in the past, when I needed a new radiator). I also noticed a weird smell, and even a stronger than usual gas smell coming from near the engine area, but thought it could have been from other cars near me that were coming and going.
This morning I opened the radiator cap and found the liquid slightly low, but there was still stuff in the overflow reservoir.There are not ANY signs of leakage under the car, but I now think the smell I noticed yesterday WAS radiator fluid. The hoses all look fine and the radiator is only a year or so old.
FYI, I tried to search Radiator queries under Repair and Maint. and the "ask a question " section, but it is not giving me the BLUE links that I USED TO GET, (as in others on the forum who posted radiator problems), but rather the links are RED now, and when I click on them, it often comes up as UNTRUSTED site, so I don't want to go there! Maybe the format has changed and it is ALL like this?
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My hatch has wires coming out of frame into the hatch - it goes through a rubber conduit - the conduit supposed to go in and out of the hatch as we open and close it. It needs to be easy otherwise the conduit will come out of the position from the hatch - there is a sleeve.
Can I apply any specific grease? It is a 87 Acura Integra....
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My 87 Acura Integra with 170k gave SMOG reading in CA as below:
NOSpeed Max Meas15 760 87525 542 535
A m/c tells me it is the result of carbon build up on pistons.
Incidentally it gave the following in 2010 - upon retesting without any repair it passed:
NOSpeed Max Meas15 760 65625 542 678
Note: Recent oil change (Mobil 1 High Mileage), tune up, Thermostat, new PCV valve, NGK Plat spark
It is for "NO" - Nitrous Oxide
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I I have Integra 94 RS, all of sudden it started to shake like crazy. it feels like the car has a stuffy nose (something clogged).
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2000 Integra with 95k miles in an excellent condition - used pedal jack when parked
I had to make a left turn and ramp up so put it on D3 - I pressed the accelerator and when I felt the speed could be higher (I am not comfortable to drive up the hills) so I must have pressed hard on the accelerator. It then responded
Not sure what was happening, I started breaking and steering - still around 30mph, guessing - it was not a wild drive.
Still not satisfied, I moved to gear 2 and stopped the car. Realized the car is still pulling, turned off the engine and realized the accelerator pedal is stuck.
I pulled it and it has been fine! With the engine off, I pushed the pedal hard and it always bounced back. Not sure that the getting in and out the pedal jack had been interferring with the accel pedal. It also looks like the engineers did a good job that with the stuck accel pedal, I did not end up in a wild drive - I had to brake and move the tranny to 2 but was able stop it - it was a mild up the hill, but unsure if it played a big role.
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