I just bought a used 98 Acura 3.0CL. I've noticed that when the heat is cranked, it doesn't blow hot at all. I did some quick research and came up with two answers thus far; check the antifreeze coolant and that I may need to replace the heater control valve. Am I "warm" on the area?
View 19 RepliesBought my Ranger brand new, and I try to maintain it well. Most of the 90,000 miles are highway. Anyway, the OEM coolant was supposed to be good for 100K miles, but since I hadn't done anything in 89K, i have a lengthy commute and the coolant was getting discolored, I figured that no harm would come in having a drain/refill. This was approx. The heat worked flawlessly. Fast forward two weeks, and my local shop performed an oil change (not the quick lube that did the coolant replacement). I was informed of three things:
1) my coolant was low,
2) my heater control valve was leaking (which I was shown), and
3) when hoisted I was shown that a slight residue of coolant -- not necessarily fresh -- was on my water pump.
I was told that 'down the road sometime a water pump could be in my future'. Again, the heat worked flawlessly, and I didn't want to be out-and-about in winter and run out of coolant. So, the shop replaced my heater control valve and topped off the coolant (approx. 1/2 - 1 gallon). Heat worked flawlessly. The last couple days, I noticed two things.
First, heat trickles out on low and medium setting, and second, it takes a long time to warm the vehicle. So, my limited research tells me two things. If coolant is present, and I have heat (of some sort), then, the water pump and heater core are probably fine. Diagnosis says to check the thermostat first, correct?
My wifes 2008 prius check engine light just came on. Its the control valve sensor. My question is, does that have any serious impact on safety? I've heard mixed on what this valve does (overheating etc).
View 6 RepliesI have an '04 Explorer Limited and lately only blows cold air. I've read about the blend door motors but it's been too cold in MI to want to do much--so the truck sits.
When I was troubleshooting the problem I found that I'm not getting any vacuum signal to the heater valve in the coolant line. Before I contemplate removing the console & doing surgery on my dash I'd like to know for sure what position the valve should be in when heat is called for.
All the other vacuum actuators seem to be working normally and there's no disconnected hoses under the dash; and no leaks. Coolant reservoir is full.
The check engine light came on yesterday. 2004 with 115K. Auto Zone read the codes and they are as follows:
Definition:
Idle Air Control Valve control circuit.
Probable Cause:
Open or short circuit condition.
Poor Electrical Connection
Failed IAC motor
Where Gen5 Camry heater control tab/valve is located? I can't seem to find in engine bay. Is it in cabin under dash? Under drivers side dash, I can only see heater control valve cable. I have got a hot coolant coming to heater core, so heater control valve must have gone bad.
View 6 RepliesReplacing a heater control valve for a 2004 Jetta? My car's vents only blow hot, and I checked the cables and saw that the control arm was disconnected. I tried to put the cylinder piece back in and had some luck, but I can't get it to sit tightly in there and it keeps falling out. Also, it still wont change the temperature coming out of the vents. I assume that something broke on the inside piece that the cylinder connected to.
[URL] ......
Here is an example of what mine kind of looks like, but mine is way more loose.
My son's 98 Expedition has no heat. The radiator and overflow tank are full, there's no air in the system. The radiator hoses get nice and hot but the heater hoses stay cold. We can hear the flow through the vents change when we change the temp control so I'm sure the blend door works fine. Seems like the problem is that no hot coolant is making it to the heater core. So I'm wondering if there is a diverter valve somewhere that could be bad that's keeping the hot coolant away from the HC or if a clogged HC is the only thing that could cause this.
View 1 RepliesWhile diagnosing a problem with my rear AC not working, I pulled the rear plenum apart. I noticed the rear heater coil was really hot even though I did not turn the heat on at all that day.
I suspect a bad heater control valve. The one that stops hot coolant from going to the core when the AC is on. I have manual temp controls so I assumen it is vacuum controlled. All data does not give me a location or vacuum routing specs for the valve so I am asking here.
1) Where do I find the heater control valve?
2) Does it shut off the coolant to both the front and rear heater cores or just the front?
02 F150, 5.4 gas motor, about 338k miles. Bought this truck well used so I would have a truck when I needed one. Someone has removed the heater control valve. I've got a new one, but there is a port on the top for a vacuum line, but where this line plugs into.
View 1 RepliesI bought a 04 explorer with a bad thermostat which led to a bad head gasket, fixed that and managed to not have to buy the special tools or time it , but now that its running I don't have any heat. I have complete service records on this vehicle and there was never a complaint of the heater not working. The a/c works and the heat will adjust the a/c temp, but no heat. In trouble shooting it I found that I am not getting vacuum to call for the coolant to enter the heater core. When I apply suction to it, it will send the coolant. Even though I wasn't getting the clicking noise, I pulled the blend door actuator and it looks surprisingly good (not looking forward to putting it back in). Where to look next?
View 5 Replies2004 Prius, 98K miles ... I recently replaced the coolant control valve (received code P1121) and added coolant. Trouble codes were cleared. I am now getting the red triangle intermittently. When I drive the car, after a few minutes, the red triangle comes on. I can shut off the car, and turn it back on, and the red triangle comes back after a few minutes. The car seems to drive normally.
View 3 Repliesi have a 2005 Toyota Prius that the air conditioner wont work in. it has Freon in it the compressor wont kick so I did some research and my cooling fans aren't kicking on so I did a by pass test and the cooling fans motor is good they just wont kick on. I just replaced my 2 cooling fan relays and they still wont kick on. the check engine light was on in the car when I got it. it throws the code P1121 coolant valve control. I got the part just got to get it put on. Could this part stop my cooling fans from kicking on or my ac compressor from coming on.
View 3 RepliesI was getting a check engine light with a P1112 code, so I had a mechanic replace the coolant flow control valve. There's a TSB on that and it seems to be the thing to do. But after the replacement, I'm getting overheat warning light whenever the engine needs to work hard. Also, the cabin heater only works when the gasoline engine is not running... when the engine is off, I get heat (though it's not as hot as I'd think when I have it on max heat), but when the gas engine kicks in, the cabin heat disappears.
View 8 RepliesFor several months now, my 2007 Prius has been making an intermittent buzzing sound from the engine bay. When I first heard it, I thought I had hit the little lines they cut into the road to let you know you've drifted over the center line - the sound is like that, a low-pitched buzzing noise. Today, the check engine light came on as it was making that noise. I put a code reader on the car and got P1121, a bad coolant flow control valve. Wondering if the sound and the faulty control valve are just coincidental or if the valve might make that noise when it fails? And if not the valve, what the sound might be?
View 19 RepliesSo I drive a 2008 and a couple months ago I started getting the Check Engine Light. Codes P1121 & P1116. Found out it was most likely related to a faulty Coolant Control Valve or Electric Water Pump. Since the pump was just recently changed I went ahead and got the valve changed.
The light is still coming and going but now when I go on the expressway that red triangle with the exclamation pops on with a little beep. Only pops on for a couple seconds and keeps coming back until I drive a bit slower.
The check engine light on my '05 Prius has gone on and off a couple of times and is giving me a P1121 code, which I found out means "Coolant Flow Control Valve Position Sensor Stuck". Does this have anything to do with the hybrid electric coolant pump that was replaced under recall a while back?
View 5 RepliesIt's been a long week for me and my 2007 Prius. Brought it to the dealer after receiving my first ever CEL. I have 222,000 miles on the vehicle. The a/c was also blowing warm when the CEL came on. They checked that and told me that the compressor was "breaking up." Then they call me back to tell me that my 12V battery died. They asked me if I had problems with starting the vehicle. I said never. Never had any issues with the car in 222,000 miles.
Well, told them to replace the battery (no choice) and the car is 5.5 years old in Florida heat so it was ready to die. Very suspicious that it died while they had the vehicle, but what can I say. Told them to not repair the coolant flow valve or the a/c until I could investigate further on my own. CEL is now off. The a/c is blowing cool again.
I have a 2009 Prius and the check engine light came on last week. I decided to take it to a highly recommended auto repair shop instead of the dealer. The error cord was P1121 and they replaced some kind of coolant control valve. When I went to take the car home I noticed the check engine light was still on and they said there was another similar but different coolant valve that needed to be replaced. They replaced the other part and everything seemed fine.
View 10 RepliesI have an emissions test coming up. I have 3 P codes that I'd like to eliminate before then. I don't want to "fix" the issues they are telling me about. Just make the codes go away. I know why they're there I just need to get rid of them.
What I have coming up is:
P0475 Exhaust Pressure Circuit Valve (result of EBPV delete)
P0541 Intake air heater A circuit low (result of aih delete)
P0640 Intake air heater control circuit (also result of aih delete)
What resistors I'll need and where to put them in?
My check engine light was throwing the code P1121 for the coolant flow valve. Toyota replaced it under a warranty enhancement (I have 134k on it), and since then my mpgs have gone from 46 to 50.
My AC is working much better now, too. My theory is that the valve can be in a semi-failure mode for a long time before throwing a code. Now that My coolant is flowing the way that it should, heat is being dissipated more efficiently.