Acura :: 2006 - Clicking Sound When Put The Key In Ignition And Car Won't Start
Feb 3, 2016
I drive a 2006 Acura MDX with about 30000 miles on it. Today when I put the key in my ignition and attempted to start it I hear a clicking sound and the car wont start. The first time I attempted to turn on my headlights they did turn on. But then when I tried a few seconds later they would not. And I am seeing lights flickering on my dashboard as well. Do I have a dead battery or possibly something worse?
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I have a 2002 Passat GLS and when I tried to start my car this morning, it would not start. When I turn on the ignition, the car gives off a loud clicking sound. The interior and exterior light works, the panel light works, and the radio works as well. What might be the problem?
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I am not sure if this is an ignition or electrical problem. I have noticed that recently when I turn the car off, I am getting a buzzing/motor/whoosh type of sound coming from the ignition. I have never noticed this before, and I am not sure what might be causing this? The car is a 2007 Acura TSX with 111k miles on it. The car starts fine and turns off fine.
Is this something I need the dealer to look at, or is this no big deal? What was it? I am not be able to "duplicate it".
Also, it ONLY makes this sound when you turn the car off, not if you just turn the key to the pre-start position, and then turn it off.
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I have a 1989 Acura Integra standard shift. Without any pattern, the car won't start. All the lights come on when I turn the key but there is no sound indicating it trying to turn over. If I leave it alone for a little while, it will often start. By the way, this never happens in the morning even in below freezing temperatures.
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1987 model with 160k
Had the two tires changed a week ago - all was fine. Then developed this clicking sound when the car is moving forward.
After it first made this noise, it stopped on its own for three days - now hearing again. I looked under and could not see anything. CV boot seems fine and are recent too.
Every 2 yrs I have Sears service my brakes - not sure disc brake is slipped and touching something - never did that before but several years ago, tire shop adjusted saying it slipped.
I checked the lug nuts - they are tight. What is going on?
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my ignition immobilizer would not let me start my 2000 Acura several times during the past week. seems to start fine after a long cool down, or after sitting over night, but after a short trip it acts up, sometimes taking as long as 1 hour of repeated attempts to start. is this something as simple as changing the key fob battery, or is it in the ignition, or is it something in the shifter?? i only have 68k miles.
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I was driving home and i turned off my car as soon as i put it in park. Came back down two minutes later and it wont turn over or try to start. It makes a weird low clicking sound once the keys are taken out of the ignition.
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2000 Acura Integra 98k miles. Around 90k timing belt, water pump and all sealants were done - and valve adjustment.
Since then I thought that there is a minor loss of coolant - also heard some grinding sound at cold start.
Today in calif, weather is under freezing. I saw handful of coolant under the car where the water pump is. The reserve tank is almost empty - at 95k coolant was topped up.
I went to another mechanic and he wanted to bring the car next week - he will try pressure test - if it is minor leak, it might not work he said - will do other tests. Didn't say the price. Not sure what the fee is for diagnostic.
What are some practical tips? This is the first car now and plan on keeping it. Given it is been about 2yrs with the timing belt job, I am not sure if I have any recourse. Credit card companies only take care if it is within 2 yrs.
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I have a 2006 Acura RSX with an auto transmission that is having problems starting. The electronics work (ie lights, stereo, auto-locks etc) and the engine starts to crank when the ignition is engaged, but it sputters out and doesn't turn all the way over even with a jump start. The battery tested positive and none of the fuses are blown, how this could be fixed?
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The check engine light on my 1997 Integra (LS, 119K miles) has come on for the second time. Including background below.
Incident #1: Carin mid-June, the car sputtered or shook a bit when starting and the check engine light came on.The car had been sitting in the garage only about a day. Codes were P0303 (Cyl 3), 0304 (Cyl 4), P1399 (multiple misfire), P1300 (random Cyl misfiring). The p0303 code set at 1600 rpm & at 75F degrees. Misfire code set during warm-up. The shop performed block test (came negative). Compression tests show 1, 2, 4 at 200 psi & 3 at 190 psi. The shop replaced spark plugs & inspected plug wires & connectors as well. Valve clearance adjustments also were done. The shop cleared the engine light code.
Incident #2: Last week (early Aug), the car again sputtered & shook when trying to start (had been sitting in the garage for about 2.5 days). Showed signs of low or dead battery but started after cranking a few times. The check engine light came on again. Codes (checked at home using the jump method) indicate Cyl 1 & 3 misfire.
Will be taking to the shop for the diagnosis again but wondering if it is battery or ignition related; shop doesn't suspect the battery, however, I do sense that the battery 'feels' weak esp. when starting. New battery put in May. What could be going on?
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When I insert the key, there is current to the dashboard and the steering wheel moves into position. When I try to start the car, the dashboard is illuminated- the radio comes on etc- but the starter does not engage all. It's totally quiet. I remove the key, insert the key and try again. Sometimes the starter engages, sometimes not. When it cranks, it starts right up. The battery is good. We had the ignition switch changed out a while back, but it didn't really improve the situation.
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Wife's car won't start today. Just get clicking sound when I put the key in, and a random message about airbag defective, or steering lock defective. We tried jump starting, but no luck. Do we have to pay to get it towed to the dealer, or will should they take care of that? I guess the starter went out?
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2001 Golf with A/T. 130,000 miles. Daughter went to turn key, heard a "snap" sound, car wouldn't start...no "click" from any electrical contact, starter apparently not getting any "juice". key now turns in switch too easily...can't feel the usually resistance when turning key. Key fob works, steering wheel turnable, can move trans lever out of "Park" into all positions with foot on brake. Broken key cylinder, or some link to ignition switch? Car at repair shop, waiting it's turn.
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Recently purchased a used 2006 Chevy cobalt, seems like an alright car so far. But lately when I turn on the car and also sometimes when I switch the heat on there is a clicking sound behind the dash on the passengers side that lasts less then 10 seconds. Is it safe to drive on? Or am I causing some great internal damage by just living with the noise instead of repairing it asap (bc tight on cash rn)?
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I just replaced rotors and pads on my 2007 Sonata. I got top of the line premium rotors and ceramic pads from Napa. Cleaned the oil off the rotors and gave them a light sanding before installing, made sure that the caliper bolts moved freely and the caliper pistons were not seized and also used new hardware kit (springs?) that came with the pads.
Everything seems to be ok, except for a clicking sound that occurs on hard breaking as the car is coming to a stop. I think its caused by the pads moving within its mounts (I did notice it was very easy to slide these pads into the mountings, more so than in previous pad replacements).
Reading from other posts I think this is still safe, but the clicking does bother me, should I use pad adhesive to stick the pads to the caliper?
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I just bought a 2008 Hyundai Elantra. Today I noticed that when I turn the key into the last position before starting (when the air/heat and radio work, but the engine isn't started), I hear a clicking sound coming from the front of the car. The clicks start as soon as I put the key into that position. After about 5-6 quick clicks in 2-5 seconds, it stops. The clicking is the same every time. It sounds exactly like when you're igniting a gas stove.
Just to be clear, the car starts fine. There is no clicking when I'm turning the key far enough for the engine to turn over. It's only when I put it in the last position for radio/ac/heat. Is this normal? I never noticed it with my other car.
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My wife just noticed a weird sound when coming home from work this morning. When backing up, you can hear what sounds like a clicking sound coming the car. The noise doesn't happen if the car is stopped and in reverse. It starts when you start to move and the faster you go, the louder and faster the clicking is. After this, I now found out my sister's boyfriend backed into the car last night pushing it down the driveway while it was in park. From my understanding, the car moved about 6 or maybe a little more inches. There is no damage to the bumper except the part that came unclipped which I just pushed back together with my hand and it's fine. The license plate is a bit bent though. It's an 09 auto and the park break was not engaged during last night's incident. What it could be? It sounds like it's coming from the front somewhere but I can't pinpoint where. I looked at the front under the hood close to the bumper but see no physical damage. I'm thinking CV or axle.
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The visor suddenly made a clicking sound while I was lowering it and stays in the lowered position. The mechanism holding the visor up has apparently broken inside the visor. What is needed to remove and replace this under-engineered part?
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Have electrical power but only getting a clicking sound. Bad starter?
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I've been trying to get my dealer to take a look at my noisy engine. The loud clicking sound is getting really annoying. When at idle sitting at a red light, my car would click like my old - 1987 Toyota beater..
I brought it in 2 times to have the dealer check it out, but they would said its "normal" and that the high pressure injectors and fuel pump are loud on our 3GS.
So i was wondering to try using heat wrap to try to reduce the noise from the fuel pump. It seems like the fuel pump is making the most noise.
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Over the past few weeks, I have noticed a clicking sound coming from the right rear brake when they are moderately applied when stopping. Doesnt seem to happen under light braking. I figured something in there must have gotten loose so I got to taking the drum off to inspect and clean the insides, or see if anything was broken. Everything seemed to be in order, inside of the drum looks fine as do the shoes, Nothing is really jumping out at me as a cause to this noise. I hit the brakes with the shop vac to suck out any brake dust I could get.
Then, with the drum off, I had my fiance apply the brakes a few times, and the parking brake, just so I could see if something in there was not operating as it should. Heh. I dont think you are supposed to do that with the drum off. The shoe adjuster fell off the shoes (#2 below) So I had to get that back in place and I am pretty sure I have it in right. I go to put the drum back on, and the pads are now too far apart and it wont go back on.
So, I decide to try opening the bleeder valve on the brake cylinder to see if I can get the pads to move in at all. it drips but I cant get the pads to budge. Then I shortened up the shoe adjuster all the way so I could get the drum back on.
Now my parking brake lever, I have to pull it waaay up to even get the parking brake to engage. I figure I have to go back and crank that adjuster out some so the shoes engage sooner. Also, I probably got air in the brake line when I opened the bleeder, so I have to bleed the brakes for real.
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