My transmission started to slip badly and I stopped it immediately and found transmission fluid in the radiator and nothing in the transmission. We replaced the radiator and flushed and refilled everything. It runs great now except it is vibrating every now and then. I'm wondering if the vibration is from running the transmission dry.
View 4 RepliesI have an 04 MDX it has over 100k on it, and about the time it was approaching that milestone, the transmission started "hesitating" when shifting into overdrive.... then it began to try to shift into overdrive way to early driving in town.... and it felt like we were riding across rumble strips every time it would do this.....We have found out.... that if we do not move the transmission selector lever into the overdrive position, but leave it in D4 [thus manually avoiding the overdrive] it does just fine....
We just suffer in the gas mileage dept., but it does not feel like the transmission is going to fall out while riding in town....My question is; is there a way to disconnect or disable the overdrive so that no matter what gear someone puts it in, it will not try to shift into overdrive by itself.When I am driving it; it is not an issue, I remember to not use overdrive every time; but when the wife or the children drive, they sometimes forget, and I am afraid it is going to do real damage beyond low gas mileage......
I have heard that this is a common problem with this vehicle, and that replacing the transmission is a very short-lived solution, as the problem is design related and will eventually happen again.
Friend has '04 LS and he says that after a heavy rain, his LS will only go about 25 mph. Water is getting into something but where? This lasts for about 2 weeks and then all is OK. Water is finally evaporating, I assume, and problem goes away.
View 4 RepliesThe transmission slips a little when first driving after startup. After about two minutes it's fine. How to check the ATF? Also where to add and what kind. The owner's manual has no ref. to this.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Acura TL which has been in pretty good shape up until recently.
The left headlight started working on and off spontaneously. I also have noticed that the rear power door locks have been very "sluggish." Meaning they sound like they are just not powerful enough to unlock the door and often take about 5 or more cycles of lock/unlock to finally work.
I took it to the Acura dealer to take a look at the headlight, and they ran the diagnostic kit and said it looked like I had a faulty headlight electrical setup. They said the bulb, igniter, and ballast, and even the car battery were bad and needed to be replaced.
My question is did the faulty battery cause this? And could my USB cigarette lighter adapter for my phone charger cause a drain on my battery to wear it down? The charger doesn't seem to use any electricity unless the phone is plugged in and the car running (a light comes on). Or anything else you can think of?
The lesson I've learned for my next car is to get one with normal headlights and normal size rims. (the 17" tires are annoyingly expensive!)
I have a 2000 Honda Accord, 4 cylinder, automatic transmission. Transmission slips in reverse when backing up a slight incline. Will changing the transmission fluid solve this problem? The car has 115000 miles on it.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2008 Ford Lariat F150 with 53k miles. The transmission seems like it slips at times. Here's the scenario. When I take off from a standstill and going through the gears at a normal acceleration pace, say I momentarily lighten the acceleration pace then try to resume. At that point, the transmission seems to slip momentarily, then bumps back into the pull mode. It feels like there is slack in the drivetrain until it re-engages, or like the lockup torque converter momentarily releases until the computer has time to react to the accelerator positioner calling for more. One guy said the transmission is, at that point, between two gears... either trying to decide to downshift or to upshift, but you can feel the surge in rpm momentarily until it decides ... then bump and your off and running again. If I push the O/D button, it stops doing it. What I can do? Because the dealer can't seem to get it to act up when they test drive it. It does it fairly regularly on me though.
View 4 RepliesI recently had my rear engine mount replaced on my 2004 Acura TSX. It was originally identified by the original dealer as requiring replacement and when I took it to anther Mechanic he also verified this and during the replacement he showed me the original engine mount which had a definitive crack.
After installation the Mechanic indicated that the car would feel a little stiff for a while and would smooth out over time. What I found after the first couple of days is that the engine seems to have a significant vibration when I am in idle or after I brake. When the car is in motion there is still a vibration but it is not very noticeable. I just remember from prior feel of the vehicle. This vibration did not exist prior to replacing the rear engine mount.
Is this expected to be normal until I put miles on it. The Acura is a 2004 but only has 75,000 miles. I don't drive it very much but I am concerned that the vibration I feel when I brake may be creating additional damage.
My 2005 4.2 L transmission slips in overdrive but I turn off overdrive and it stops slipping instantly. What could be the reason for this does this require an entire trans rebuild or is it an easy fix.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 XLT supercrew 4x4 with about 150,000 miles with the 5.4 motor. I noticed that when entering an interstate at around 50-55 mph it feels like the tranny slips. There is a jerk, jerk, jerk than it stops, it doesn't do it at any other speeds and only getting on interstates. Runs fine in town. No lights on the dash or codes, fluid level is normal and clean. I did have a caliper sticking but it was replaced and it's still doing the jerk, jerk, jerk. Could it be U joints?
View 6 Replieswe had a shop replace a thermostat in oct 10, last week our truck started running hot so we put in about 3 qt of 50/50 coolant. it returned to normal temp the next day we noticed some foam coming out of the overflow. when we opened the hood it looked like a brownish/red color and is a thick foam. When taking it back to the garage they cannot tell what it is. They have tried to flush it out and say they put in 3qt of fluid and only get out 1qt. It can be chunky at times. What it could be?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 Honda Odyssey touring model. Recently I had it serviced at the Honda dealership. In addition to my requested front end alignment and oil and filter change, they talked me into a radiator flush, fuel inj. service, air filter replacements and battery service. I drove the car home after wards even filling up with gas before going home. This drive was about 55 miles. I never noticed any problems. The next day, I left for Montghomery AL towing a trailer with a motorcycle trike on it. We stopped for lunch and continued. The car suddenly started making a grinding noise from engine compartment and suddenly white smoke started coming out from the hood. I immediately pulled over and we got out of the car for fear of fire. This was the first time I had any indication of a problem.
After a short time, I opened the hood to see what was wrong and noticed that the radiator cap was sitting upside down next to opening. I had the vehicle towed to Chattanooga where I was told there was serious damage to the engine. I had them repair it (they were an AAA approved towing and repair shop). I also took pictures of the engine compartment. I went back to the dealership and asked to be reembursed for my expenses and the cost of repairs and the owner refused. He said he didn't believe they left the cap off and since he started out in the service department he didn't believe the car could even go that far without overheating. My question is: Is it possible for a 2007 Honda Odyssey to travel approximately 220 miles over two days before overheating and wrecking the engine if the radiator cap was left off and/or if no fluid was even added and the radiator cap was left off?
I have a 2004 4-cylinder Camry. Saturday I changed the passenger side motor mount which was broken and the front motor mount, which did not appear to be broken, but there was more play in it than in the replacement. I had to take the battery out and the air intake in order to have enough room to remove the front mount. To remove the front mount, I jacked up the engine with a 2 X 4 underneath the oil pan so as not to damage it. The passenger side wheel rose several inches off the ground. After everything was back together, the car ran rough at first but eventually got better. The only symptom that remains is a noise and slight vibration when the car is in drive. In neutral and all other gears there’s no noise or vibration. They noise seems to be slightly less when the car starts to roll, and after a few seconds in motion, I can’t hear it. What’s causing the noise? If there a third motor mount that I may need to replace?
View 19 RepliesI got my Alternator replaced last week. Last night, I hit a very small bump, not even large enough to really cause me to slow down, and as soon as I did, my battery and brake lights came on. My RPM gauge also jumped around and eventually went to 0 until I stopped and put the car in park. (The bump might just be a coincidence who knows). So after all this happened, I turned off my car, tried to restart and got nothing. Sometimes I get a click, sometimes 2 clicks up to 4-6 consecutive clicks. Every few times I won't even get a click, just a slight attempt to start, then the car dies, then 2 seconds later all my lights and radio etc. come back on. My problem here is a few things:
1. I've been told it could be the starter. If it's the start, those dashboard lights shouldn't have came on right? just the STARTING portion of the car.
2. I've been told it could be the battery.
Well If i got my alternator tested and Advance said it was working, Why would my battery be dead? And if it WAS dead, wouldn't my lights have went dim or something else happen to the car?
I recently had my oil &filter changed on my 01 integra at the dealer and was told that my oil pan gasket has started to leak. Car has 180k on it, and has no engine leaks.Seems like steep price for the repair $340.00 for the oil pan gasket. Is this repair really worth doing on a 12yr old car or is this just a normal thing that happens w/ age. Also Oil is not leaking on the ground and has no leaks around the engine. Iam only adding 1qt. of oil every 3k.
View 17 RepliesI have a 2002 Isuzu Rodeo with about 140,000 miles. The transmission slips when going from 2nd to 3rd gear. It there any hope for a repair that doesn't involve a tranny rebuild? Can anything else be done?
View 4 RepliesOn a 2005 Audi A4, 1.8 T... The Audi dealership found a 'fault for transmission control module' (the transmission slips), and a fault for vacuum leak ('crank case venting components dry rotted'). How much should it cost to repair each of these? My partner would prefer to get rid of the car if repairs add up to $4,000 or more, as the dealer would like to charge. The car has 44,000 miles on the odometer.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2002 Ford Escape 4x4Automatic with 97K on it. It has just started slipping in Drive. It will go in reverse just fine. If i put it into 2 or 1 it will take right off then I can move it into D but only with the OD off. If it is on the engine revs and you don't go anywhere. I have no lights flashing or bells going off. The fluid is clean and doesn't smell burned. Is my transmission toast? Is there a chance I can have it fixed cheaply or even do it myself?
Here are the symptoms once again.
Moves in Reverse.
Revs in D with OD on or off
Moves in 1 or 2 with OD on or off
When you get it moving you can put it into D with OD off and get 3rd gear. If OD is on It just revs.
When you come to a stop in D with the OD off and try to take off again it just revs. You have to use 1 or 2 to get moving again.
Will the car make it 300miles home so i can have it looked at?
2006 Prius, 114K miles. In the last week started getting the intermittent warning of "There is a problem with the parking transmission lock. Place the car on a flat surface and fully set the parking brake." Car would not start, would only go into neutral. All accessories work fine, seems to be plenty of 12V power. Did a lot of research and determined that the most likely cause was a failing 12V battery. Used the diagnostic mode to check voltages, had 12.1 at "READY", 11.6 under auxiliary loads, and 14.1 with engine on (I did get the car to start eventually but can't figure out how and under what set of circumstances it would start).
So I ordered a 12V battery and replaced it. After replacing, I still had the Hybrid warning light, but after stopping and starting the car 3 times it went away. Car worked fine for a day but now the intermittent warning has returned. With the warning on, the parking lock seems to be fully engaged (car won't roll even on a slope).
I I have Integra 94 RS, all of sudden it started to shake like crazy. it feels like the car has a stuffy nose (something clogged).
View 1 RepliesA week ago my wife's car had a loud vibration in what i assumed was the tires or wheels whenever the car went over 40 mph, and got louder the faster i went. I noticed the front left tire looked a little low, and I was taking it in for an oil change anyway that day so i had them fill up the tire too. When I left it still had the same vibration all the way home. The car just sat in our garage for most of the last week with my wife driving it just around locally and I took it this morning with the plan to drop it off somewhere on my lunchbreak to get it checked out, but the vibration seems to be gone. I got it up to 90 mph and noticed nothing.
The car is an 2003 acura tl 3.2L with about 125,000 miles on it.