We bought a used 2001 Nissan Altima. It has 123,000 miles on it. It had a few minor issues, but recently it has started lurching when we go over 35 miles an hour and it will not accelerate.
View 2 RepliesMy Nissan Altima is normally fine but after about 40 minutes to an hour of driving even in cool temperatures the car stops wanting to accelerate much and the RPM needle will jump from 1-2k to 5k almost instantly when applying more gas. I can be at 5k RPMs and barely climb 1 to 2 mph every few seconds in my car. This issue will persist till I turn the car off for a short while. Once The car has cooled down and been idle for a bit the car works fine again for 40 to 60 minutes. I also don't want to take it in because I doubt they'll get the problem to reproduce unless they drive it for up to an hour.
View 10 Replies2006 Prius 150,000+ miles. Tonight the Master warning light, brake system warning light, and Check engine light all illuminated on dash as well as the Hybrid System warning on the console. The car is idling at almost 40 miles per hour but does not allow any acceleration from the pedal. The engine will rev as if it wants to but no power.
View 11 RepliesAs I was driving home, I came to a stop. When I depressed the accelerator to move, nothing happened. No gas was getting to the accelerator, the car wouldn't move, but the engine was still running. So I shifted the car in park and back to drive and I began moving. This happened on several occasions.
What is the problem? The gas filter? The gas pump? The fuel injectors or The transmission?
I purchased a 2010 2.5 Altima with 9K miles in 2011. After @ four months I noticed a slight miss at 30-45 mph upon acceleration. I told the dealership and they said it wasn't throwing a code. After two more visits I again complained about the miss. At this time the service person handed me a "Customer Satisfaction Bulletin" that explained that cars (Altimas, 2009- 2011 with my trans. and engine experience this "SURGE" as they called it AND that it is NORMAL.There is no way in hell that a auto maker would produce a car that does what my car does and consider it NORMAL. Buy the way, there is a "FIX" that was done but didn't work, that involved changing motor mounts and computer programming.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2001 Nissan Altima. I seem to be having a fan problem. I started noticing that about 2 seconds after I turned the car off, the fans would come back on and run for ~25-30 seconds. I brought it in and my mechanic was thinking maybe a defective thermostat, so we replaced that. It still keeps happening, but now I've realized that the fans come back on anytime the car is turned off when the fans are running. If the fans are not running, they won't come back on. I've been trying to pay more attention to what is going on and when I first turn on the car, no fans are on (at least not the high fan, not sure if there are more than 1) After driving around town, the fans will turn on.
Normally, I believe the fan should then turn off once the coolant temp gets below a certain level. I let the car sit idling in the driveway for 15 min and the fans never turned off. I took it back to mechanic and repeated the idling for 15 min, fans never turned off. He checked the coolant temp with some sort of sensor and the temps were reading between 166-170 depending on where he aimed his device, so he said the fans should be turning off and it doesn't seem like the car is overheating.If he unplugged the temperature sensor, the gauge would go all the way to cold, but nothing changed for the fans, so he didn't think that was the problem.He took the fan relays along the edge of the car and swapped them around and nothing changed, so didn't think it was a relay problem. He removed some sensor on the passenger side on the back part of the engine and the fans got really loud and really fast. When he replace that, the fans would go back to normal until the engine temp got hot enough to turn them on and then they wouldn't go off again. He's thinking that sensor might be the problem, but isn't 100% sure. I think he said this was the cooling fan sensor or switch.
On a side note that may or may not be related. About 5 years ago the water pump broke. It started having the fans on all the time (even from a cold start), that turned out to be a faulty knock sensor. There was a knock sensor code and he replaced the knock sensor and then the fans went back to normal cycling. I didn't have any problems until early last fall, when I started noticing my current problems. I didn't worry about it until now, because as it got colder outside, it wasn't an issue. So outside temperature definitely effects it.
There are no codes this time.
I have a 2001 Nissan Altima. Recently it started to surge when I come to a stop. It doesn't always happen, in fact it can do fine for a day or so. But every once in a while, when coming to a stop, the engine rev's up to about 4000 rpm. It immediately returns to a normal idle, but I have to throw it into neutral to stop. Nissan said it was the idle sensor in the throttle body, so I replaced the throttle body. Still happens. Another Nissan mechanic said it could simply be that the sensor needed to be re-programmed. Did that, still happens. Today, it happened, but stayed at 4000 rpm until I took my foot off the brake. Then it returned to normal idle. It doesn't matter if I come to a quick stop or let it drift to a slow stop.
View 5 RepliesIf I dont constantly keep my foot on the gas pedal then my car will die.
View 1 RepliesI had my transmission fluid changed because it was leaking from the pan. I did the job myself but called VW to confirm how much fluid I needed. They told me the wrong amount but we realized that after we did the job.. they did the repair for a huge discount and I only paid $200 bucks for the work for them to "fix" what they messed up. Volkswagen did it and I got the car serviced at the end of April basically. now its the first week of July and under 90 days since the car was service and now it is shifting hard between 2nd and 3rd gear or 35 miles to 45 miles per hour. The car isn't throwing a transmission code I have a vag com and there is no code coming up on that.
View 1 RepliesI have a nissan altima 2001. I have 128,000 miles on it. I have fully paid for the car. While climbing a steep hill at 2nd gear, the engine overheated, and I seem to have broken the gasket. What are my prospects? Should I put a new engine, should I fix the gasket or should I abandon the car?
View 2 RepliesThe starter cranks, fired a couple of time but will not start. Mechanic blames the key interlock ... Apparently the key contains a microchip that blocks starting... Does this sound right ?
View 3 RepliesMy car (Nissan 1998) runs normally for miles. Then sometimes it just starts lurching while in motion when the gas is depressed and looses speed, as if not getting fuel. Previous times it dies after this. The last time I was on the highway going 70 and I pulled over before it lost power and died completely. Just had new brakes installed, new distributor, all new belts, and an oil leak fixed by a mechanic.
View 1 RepliesMy 2001 tundra v8 4.7 liters. Will not go past 90 miles per hour.I'm not a speed person but I like to know my truck is in top shape.Odo reads 99073 on the i way I tried pushing it to a 100 mph but it not go, what's happening to my truck...
View 6 RepliesI got my v-8 12-22-03, very pleased. however at exactly 53 miles per hour and higher a high pitched whistling comes from the right side of the sunroof, whether open or closed. The dealer is perplexed and stumped. Sticking my head out at 55 miles an hour is fun (very dog like and my son was driving) but no way you can hear anything and pinpoint the noise. It does not appear to be the roof rack which is properly installed and both in the rear. In the words of the teacher in ferris bueller..
View 8 RepliesI have a question regarding my shaking car (Toyota Avensis Diesel 2.0 1999) while accelerating.
The shaking occurs when I accelerate, especially within the range of 45-75 miles per hour (70-120km/h). It's at it's worst around 60 mph. Whenever I release the gas pedal it stops. It also stops whenever I go faster than 75 mph. When I drive at a constant speed between 45-75 mph, the car stills shakes, but a bit less than when I accelerate. It doesn't seem like there is any specific location from where the shaking originates. It's all over, but there's no shaking of the steering wheel itself. The tyres are ok. After some suggestions I recently put some injection cleaner into a full tank, but with no results.
I have a 2006 Camry with a steering vibration at 60-65 miles per hour. I have looked at all of the Threads for similar problems but everyone is guessing at the cause....stating "Check the alignment, check tire pressures, check the wheel balance, check the wheel bearings."
I have checked all of these things to the best of my ability and there does not seem to be a problem there. I bought new tires and had the front end aligned. Vibration still there. Had tires balanced 3 different times. VIBRATION STILL THERE. Removed wheels and inspected all suspension parts. No obvious problem seen. Switched tires front to back then left to right then front to back again. VIBRATION STILL THERE.
Forgot to mention that the right front is wearing on the inside but the alignment checks out. I had the alignment re-checked at the tire dealer and then checked it myself later in the month using toe plates that we have in the shop for our SCCA ITB Club Racer. Is there a Recall that I am not aware of ?????
My 2007 Honda CR-V has started to vibrate when I am driving around 45-50 miles an hour. Seems to be in the wheels. Doesn't happen all the time. At first I thought the road was rough, but now happens more often only for brief period then drives normally. The majority of the time, it's when I take my foot off the gas to maintain or slow speed. Car dealer took it for a test drive. They told me my tire pressure was too high and took air out, but the problem persists. They checked the wheel bearings, the joints, etc.
View 8 RepliesMy 1990 Volvo is making a terrible noise at about 20-30 miles per hour. It only lasts a few minutes but it sounds like a plane taking off underneath the passenger seat (wagon). Had the muffler replaced, but it didn't fix the noise. I also have a high pitched noise at freeway speeds.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 b6 it has a thump/vibration at 22 to 24 miles an hour. This may sound crazy but when you live in the city its awful! VW has replaced the transmission, both front axles and wheel bearings all around the car they have put the headphones on the car and cannot find the thump. The breaks have also been replaced rotors and pads.
View 8 RepliesA mouse in my engine bay? No, not exactly... Although by the sound of it, it's possible. There is a squeak I hear when rolling at <40 miles per hour that happens randomly. It also happens when I turn my wheel from side to side while stopped.
View 9 RepliesI have a 1993 Mazda MX-6. For the past 2-3 years, my car shudders when it idles or goes less than 10 miles an hour. More and more lately, it has been shutting off completely when I drive slow or come to a stop. The first few weeks it was happening, one day while in a Burger King drive-thru (of all places- how embarrassing), it shut off and I couldn't get it to start again.
The mechanic I took it to replaced the distributor to fix it. It has not had a problem starting anymore since then, but it still shudders very hard. Could it be something else that's wrong?
I have also discovered that turning on the air conditioning keep the RPMs to stabilize, and the higher I turn the A/C, the more power it seems to get. Don't know if that is related.