Acceleration - Nissan :: 1981 - Engine Started Looping After 2000 RPM
Jan 23, 2011
1981 Datsun 280ZX 5spd manual L28 IL6 SOC. maintenance history unknown. Today after a short drive and a bath the engine started looping after 2000 rpm. The car idles fine while sitting but as soon as you push the gas the engine revs to 2k and then decelerates then back up to 2k then back down.The car does this with no hesitation until you take you foot off the gas then idles normal again. Could this be a sensor issue? If so which one? The car didn't start the problem until i bathed the engine area.
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I have a 96 buick skylark. I just recently had the parking pawl fixed because it was broken. Now when I slow down the engine idle seems to start looping and almost stall, it in fact has once. As I slow down, and I can feel the car somewhat trying to pull forward as if its not down shifting correctly. when I finally get stopped the idle will come back up and idle normally. the car upshifts great. I know that one of my rear wheel speed sensors has a broken wire.
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2003 Ford Sport Trac with 4.0L SOHC engine
I started having this problem after I decided to do a tune up because of another minor unrelated problem (start up taking 2+ cranks sometimes and fine when gas is full... I'm going to replace the fuel pump for that but not until i resolve the more pressing issue)
Before the problem I had spark plugs and wires (all but #3) replaced by my dad and he also put in some Fuel Cleaner into the gas tank. He took it to a local mechanic and had the mechanic replace the #3 spark and wire and check the others and also replace the fuel filter.
After that my car was taken to jiffy lube where engine oil was changed... as well something else but I dont know what because no one is able to tell me.... my dad had one of his employees take it and the employee took it upon himself to get other things done but he doesn't know what.
And then when I got my car back after the weekend is when this issue started.
First I noticed a rattling (like a plastic is caught on a fan blade and it is hitting something as it goes round and round) right after engine is started. And on the roads, when I try to accelerate, it will accelerate- but very slowly as if my engine had no power.
When I floor my gas pedal, the car will continue to drive at a constant speed and I can start to hear a really fast rattling which I am not sure if it is the same thing making the rattling sound I hear at start up.
I've gotten the following codes : 300, 301, 303, 316
I have since then had my spark plugs rechecked, wires for #1, 2, 3 and 4 replaced with another brand. There was no long term change but I have noticed that every time messed with the wires (when spark plugs were changed, when wires were changed and when sparks were checked... etc) for about 3 drives right after it the car feels more powerful and smooth and then it will go back to driving like crap.
I have also changed the CKP sensor (advice of the Auto Zone) and there has been no change.
I have also replaced the coil pack this weekend and no change.
I have bought the more expensive wires but didn't change them since 2nd set for 1, 2, 3 and 4 has not made changes.
Currently: Only thing I have more noticed is that the car when first driven, feels okay at start up. I can accelerate from 0 to 30 with decent power and time and as long as i dont floor the gas and only lightly depress the gas the car will continue to accelerate with decent power and speed.
However, anytime the engine is strained (like going up a hill) I loose speed. and AFTER any time the engine is strained, i will no longer be able to accelerate with decent power and time.
The car at this point feels like it it trying, almost sounds and feels gritty if that makes any sense, and if i try to at least keep speed, the engine sounds change but no increase in speed. At this point I usually just try tapping lightly on the gas and it will eventually get upto 30mph and of course more effort to go beyond and continually increase the speed.
It takes me a good few minutes for me to go from 0 to 35 and another few minutes to get upto 45. (Now everyone drives around me after a complete stop because I cannot even get to 20 right away like most normal working cars.)
I really would hate to replace one part at a time to play guess and check but I also don't know any true mechanics in the area that can really drive, listen and look and determine what exactly is going on without playing guess and check with every little and big parts that are involved. I have seen some people replace the intake manifold, O2 sensors, CKP/CAM sensors, cylinders...
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Question, my truck started to have a miss under normal acceleration, when I really get on it, it clears up? I also noticed a bad sulfer smell at idle. Im thinking the cat is possibly plugged? Truck had 172000ish on it, and the cat is original. I did do a big tune up this past fall, new plugs, coil packs, air and fuel filter. Should I put a new cat on it? And a new oxygen sensor?
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On my way home late at night, my tachometer started jumping a little, and the engine was rough. Then after another minute the lights dimmed and the engine died. It wouldn't start again. The next morning, it started right up, and it seemed fine. Drove it to the mechanic, he took it for a drive on the freeway, then after he got off the freeway it died again and had to be towed. The error code on the computer is P0326- Knock Sensor. I had the same sensor activated a couple of years ago, and my awesome mechanic (we have since moved far away, so I don't have access to the same guy) gave the engine a tune-up and replace the spark plugs and everything was fine (well, for two years). The car has been idling rough, and the intake manifold may be warped. Could the intake manifold cause this? Distributor?
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1998 Nissan Maxima had a check engine light come on and started running very rough. I took it to get a code read and came up with P0320 and P0325. I'm not worried about the 0325 since that's a knock sensor. 0320 is a misfire on cylinder 2.
With the car idling, I pulled the power connector from coil pack 2 to see if it made a difference in the idle - nope. I did the same for the other cylinders, and each responded with a noticeable change in the idle, which was remedied when it was reconnected.
I moved the coil pack from #2 to #4 (swapping them) and the same problem existed - idle was rough and didn't make a difference when I pulled the power on 2, but it did on all other coil packs. So, it seems the coil pack ins't the problem since multiple packs don't seem to make 2 work, but they work on other 4 and 6.
I then pulled the spark plug from cylinder 2, it was very black and looked in bad shape. I replaced it. Still no love.
I then put a spare plug in the coil and was able to see spark as the engine ran, so it seems that the coil pack at 2 is getting juice.
So, I have gas (big odor when the car is running - seems super rich) I have spark. Still running very rough and the 0320 code remains.
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I have a 2000 accent. Automatic tranny with 167000 miles. My current problem is the car is misfiring upon acceleration and engine revving. I have to accelerate very slowly to minimize this but i once the engine revs up enough I can give it more gas and it will rev normally with plenty of power. I have had to unplug the maf to keep it driveable. Ive never had a car stay running after disconnecting the maf so this is strange to me. My accent barely stays running with the maf connected. I just got the car from my dad and he had it fixed and it ran good for awhile with the maf connected so I don't think it is the maf. But the same problem came about and we had to disconnect the maf again. And he cant remember or is not sure what was exactly fixed on the car. I've read up about the purge control valve and havent had a chance to check it out but some of the symptoms fit.
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This is just a basic Sentra 2.0L with a CVT, about 80k miles.
I park on a very very slight downhill grade.. very slight.. almost flat.. The car starts just fine, put it in reverse, push the pedal to the floor, engine revs up to about 1500 rpms (I'm assuming it has a limiter on it because it won't go past 1500) and the car sits still. Release the accelerator, floor it again, car moves about 6", repeat a few times and eventually I can back out. That ain't normal.
It does a similar thing when in Drive, except it will actually start moving but very slowly. So slow that I'm afraid I'm going to get T-boned if I try to make a left turn. Once I get up to about 10mph it starts to feel somewhat normal.
Once it starts moving it doesn't seem to have any trouble maintaining highway speeds. The engine might be running a little faster than normal, but to be honest I'm not sure if it is or not. Pulls up some pretty significant hills at 60mph at around 3k RPM.. which seems reasonable.
What it could be? Transmission is still under warranty so I'm hoping it's that.. I don't really have the $ to throw at this thing right now. By the way - it's not throwing any codes or anything.
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Lately having the following issues with my Tig.
When starting up the engine on cold start (or after having the car sit for about 30 minutes) after about 10 - 20 seconds; pretty much right after first acceleration the car all of a sudden looses all power. RPM fall down even when accelerating. Accelerating more only let's the engine stall more.
5-10 seconds later the engine functions normal again.... What problem could that be ?
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Going up a hill, my engine started clacking and I lost acceleration power. (yes, I was in overdrive - which I now know I shouldn't have been). I immediately pulled off the road and into a gas station. Upon stopping, my oil pressure gague dropped to zero and my engine temp maxxed out. The temp was fine until I stopped. I let the engine cool off for an hour.
After listening to it for a few seconds, I was told that I had a problem they couldn't fix. We put a compression fix oil additive in it to see if that would work. It did raise the oil pressure when cold and when running with the RPMs up, but after running for a few minutes, the pressure would drop to zero on idle. At that point, they suggested that I shouldn't drive it anymore. I then rented a box truck and an auto trailer and trailed my truck the rest of the way.
I'm now in Fort Collins, Colorado and have a dilemma. I had a local mechanic look at the truck and he also agrees that I have a failed/failing rod bearing. (back of the engine near the firewall)
The question is to repair or abandon the vehicle. I'm not a mechanic and can't do the repair myself. It has 158K miles and has been meticulously maintained. Unless I also damaged something else, the rest of the truck is in good shape. Is rebuilding the engine possible or even worth it?
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I have a 2006 Honda Odyssey. I got the timing belt replaced two weeks ago.Last week the engine started making a quiet clicking noise upon acceleration. The clicking noise happens intermittently not continuously. Then last night the yellow engine light came on. Questions: What does the yellow engine light mean? Is the engine light related to the timing belt work that was done? Would the clicking noise be connected to the timing belt work?
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I have a Nissan Altima 2000 with about 98,000 miles. The "check engine" light has been on. This happened once before and eventually the light went off, but now it is on again. I read the manual and it said that the gas cap isn't on tight enough. Checked that and it is fine - but the light never went off. Should I bring it in to a mechanic?
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Started my car the other morning to go to work (4:45 AM) with no problem and drove about one mile. Not wet weather. The engine dies, all lights that come on at start up (engine, alt, etc.) come on and I glided to the side. Tried starting it again - engine tried but did not catch. Tried a few more times and called AAA.
Towed it to a mechanic. Waited about 2 hours for them to open. They were able to drive it the rest of the day with no problem but they had the same thing happen the next morning (yesterday). Then it didn't happen to them today. One more try tomorrow and I hope they can identify it then.
2000 Nissan Altima w/150K miles, gas was less than 1/4 mark, no system lights on.
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I just purchased a 2000 Nissan Maxima GXE with 219,000 miles. I've had it less than two weeks, and the Service Engine Soon light just came on. I live somewhere that requires emissions testing in order to register the vehicle. My temporary plate will expire soon, so I need to get the car to pass emissions.
This is my first Japanese car and first non-American vehicle. I didn't know until after I had given the check to the guy selling the car that he used premium gas. He said that Nissan recommends it. I've never driven a car that required premium gas before and wasn't keen on the idea since here, it is 40¢ a gallon more expensive than regular unleaded.
I spoke with my landlord about it, as he is a certified Honda mechanic. He told me to first try getting half a tank of regular unleaded and putting it in with some fuel injector cleaner. He said if I didn't notice any decrease in performance or knocks, to then just add a bottle of of fuel injector cleaner to every other tank of gas.
I got a half tank of regular unleaded with a bottle of fuel injector cleaner and didn't have any issues. I then filled the tank with regular without any fuel injector cleaner. I used about ¾ of that tank when the service engine soon light came on. I took the car to Valvoline to get the codes read, and while they couldn't give me any code numbers, they said it was something to do with emissions.
Here are my questions:
Is it possible the light came on because I switched from premium to regular unleaded or perhaps because I would need to add fuel injector cleaner to every tank of gas I get and not every other tank as my landlord said he does with his car?
Should I try either adding fuel injector cleaner to every tank of gas or just switch back to premium? If I try either of those, and one of those was the problem, how long would it take for the Service Engine Soon light to turn off?
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I had bought an updated disk for my navigation system for my 2003 SC430. After putting it in my navigation system the display shows updating then kept looping for over 25 min. While reverting to the old disk the nav. displayed requested that I insert the updated disk--I did but the looping continues.
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2000 Nissan Frontier: Only when hot, engine knocks from center of engine on right bank. Not consistent, intermittent, goes away when revving above 3k rpms. Ever since: Preventative maintenance was performed: Timing belt, oil pump, water pump, valves machined and re-seated, new guides. Idle is smooth and slightly high on cold start up, no vacuum leaks seen. Manifold vacuum is only 15.5 to 16 in/hg, returning code of knock sensor (believe due to knocking). Not a rod knock, not a valve tap. Possible wrist pin noise?
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I have a manual 2000 Nissan Sentra with 101,000 miles. The Service Engine Soon light stays on. I was told it was an vacuum leak or mass air flow or basically the mixture of oxygen is off. (I already had one mass air flow put in a few years ago.) I have been ignoring the message. We went camping and drove twice to 9,000 feet. No problems on road at all. The car runs great. In fact we got 35 mpg on the trip. Am I possibly hurting the car by ignoring the message?
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I am having camry 2007 with 100 k.miles running. When engine crosses 2000 rpm, I can hear a tik tik sound from engine. This sound is not coming when engine is cold, and also when the engine is on acceleration.
I have checked alternator and A/C bearing. It's OK. I have also replaced timing chain tensioner.
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My hyundai accent 2005 is not starting at all. The battery is charged but the engine is not starting when i try to key the ignition. I had keyyed in continuously around 20 to 30 times but it just doesnt start. When i try to key in fully, the engine makes a sound and chokes.
I was told by someone that my spark plugs in the vehicle were wrong i.e. the genuine spark plugs were for hyundai elantra and not hyundai accent. the spark plugs were in vehicle for around 2 months. Can wrong spark plugs cause vehicle starting problems?
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I've got a problem with a 2000 Impreza 2.5RS 5spd. It started with the check engine light coming on. A trip to Auto zone revealed that the O2 sensor was the problem. But on the way home, the light came on again and started flashing. All the while the car started acting like it had a misfire. It idles really rough and the exhaust smells like it's running really rich. I've replaced the plugs and wires, and all corners of the ignition coil check out properly as well. Can the O2 sensor cause a misfire in one or more of the cylinders? Or is something else that I should be interrogating as the cause?
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2000 VW GOLF 2.0L, manual, ~190k miles
Driving down the highway my CEL started flashing and the engine power dropped at the same time. I drove two miles to my destination and the idle was very rough and the power was still very low. The codes were P0300, 0301 and 0304.
The coil was replaced about 2 years ago. The plugs have never been replaced. About 2 weeks ago I had a solid CEL with the codes P1255 and P0422... I purchased a new ECT Sensor but did not yet make time to install it.
Could everything be related to the ECT? Or do you think there are multiple issues?
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