Acceleration - Honda - Accord - Rpm :: 1987 - Gulp Noise While Engine Warming Up
Apr 6, 2011
This morning I went to start my car and while the engine was warming up (it's carbureted, not fuel injected) I heard a strange sound that I can only describe as sort of a "gulp" or something. As I was driving to the doctor, at one point I was going up a slight hill so I went to accelerate and the RPMs reved up but I didn't go any faster than I was going, which was about 30-35mph. What's going on here? 1987 Honda Accord LX....
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My 2003 Honda Accord with 101,000 miles started hesitating on acceleration, and a day later my check engine light came on. I went to the auto parts store to borrow one of their diagnostic computers. The code I received for the engine light was from my O2 sensor. What can cause the hesitation and the O2 sensor to read faulty? I have had several O2 sensors go out on other vehicles, but that hasn’t caused any other symptoms before. I would like it to be that simple, seeing as how easy they are to replace, but I don’t want to get my hopes up. Anyway, the car is parked now and I am taking the bus because I can’t afford to take it to a mechanic. I don’t want to waste any money by starting to replace things without having better direction.
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I have a 1987 Honda Accord,that has a carburetor. initially I thought that it was my motor mounts or the idle speed needed adjusting. However since they have been replaced I and the idle speed tuned the problem persists. I don't know what else could be wrong. I have changed all belts, mounts, and still whenever I use anything electrical (I.e. fans, rear defrost, power windows,etc.) And the care is traveling below 10 mph the shaking just won't stop.that is till I put one foot on break and the other on gas. Keeping the idle speed above 1000 revolutions per minute.
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Basically, when driving shortly after turning on the car (when the engine is still warming up) I often experience a 'shot' of acceleration despite not further depressing the accelerator. In other words, I'll be driving along smoothly and suddenly the car will speed up slightly by itself without me having done anything. This only occurs when the HSI is past the middle (i.e. when the engine is powering the car) and when the car has recently been switched on. It's almost as if the sensor that detects my acceleration is re-calibrating itself while I'm driving, increasing the input to the engine.
The first time it happened it was a bit of a shock and I was a little scared, however I'm used to it by now and can anticipate it happening (however it doesn't happen 100% of the time). It's nothing too serious - it probably only accelerates a couple of KMs above what I'm actually doing but still is a bit of a worry. I'll be taking it in for a service shortly and seeing what they say about.
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I just started noticing a noise coming from my 2009 Honda Accord tonight. I was on my way to my buddies bar. When I accelerate past 2500 rpm I notice a noise coming from the engine (or at least what seems to be the engine). Also the Oil pressure light comes on at this point. It (the noise and light turning on) happens when I get to about 2500 rpm, If i keep it below that nothing happens. If I am below 2500 rpm there is no unusual noise nor is there any light.
I left my car at my buddies bar because I did not want to risk driving it back. I checked the oil and I think there was little oil in the engine although I refilled it recently (It was dark when I checked it, I am checking it again tomorrow with a second opinion).
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2004 Honda Accord with 120k miles sounds like an old sewing machine when cold for a few minutes (less than 5). The exact sound is on a video on youtube: [URL..... Dealer said they can't find it. Car has been maintained well and all services have been done. I've heard a lot of guesses (all expensive) but no solutions. Dealer finally got tired of me asking about it and said to just ignore it (turn up the volume on the radio).
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I have a 2008 Honda Accord. When I start the engine I hear a muted clacking sound not a whoosh like air and then it disappears after a few moments. This does not happen after I drive the car to the and park it for less than a 3 hours but if parked longer it occurs again.
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My wife's 2006 Honda Accord makes a strange noise when accelerating. The best I can describe it is that it sounds like Woooo. It does not make this sound when driven at a constant speed. The car is in great shape and does not appear to have any mechanical or electrical problems.
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My 1999 Honda Accord is making a whirring noise sometimes. It happens occasionally, now more frequently than last month. It sometimes happens when I start the engine, but am still in Park. Mostly it happens when I'm actually driving. both slowly on back roads and fast on the highway. What would cause this?
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Incosistently when accelerating the car jerks (like when wheels spin out in rain). Car works just fine in Idle and has been working great, except for the occassional jerking. I would like to know what I should check and if its dangerous to drive, depending on what the problem might be.
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I have a 2003 Honda Accord V6 that has some acceleration hesitation and general jerkiness, usually noticeable when the car has been sitting for a long period of time (overnight). The symptoms seem to dissipate after 5 - 10 minutes of driving.
When I begin accelerating, the car feels like it hesitates when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. If I let off the gas a bit, then the car jerks a bit.
I'm sure it's not the transmission, because the dealer said the fluid and everything looks fine. Additionally, I have another Accord (2000) that does have a failing transmission and the symptoms on that one are very different from this 2003.
A couple of months ago, I was getting a CEL and had a friend of mine read the code with his OBD tool. It indicated that Bank 1 Sensor 1 was bad. I replaced it with a Denso. I think the problem got better at that point, but has "worsened" again over the past month or so.
Any clues what this might be? Things I can try? Ways to narrow down the issue?
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My honda accord is an 05 model, and ever since my mother passed it down to me a year ago, EVERYTHING has been breaking. As of a week ago, any time I turn on the ac, the car shudders violently. It first started when I was parked with the engine on for about an hour, and a low screeching noise along with a smell like burning rubber started emanating from the engine. The noise stopped whenever I turn off the ac, and now it shudders when I turn it on.
Along with that, for the last several months before it completely screwed up, the air being pumped out of the left side of the vehicle was noticeably warmer then the right side. And lastly, starting today, the back center light is fine, but the brake lights don't turn on when I hit the brakes but do turn on when I turn on the headlights. What is going on?
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I have an 87 Dakota with a two-piece driveshaft, bought it new. A couple months ago at 140,000 miles there came a chirping noise from the rear at acceleration from a stop. I changed the u-joints with new Moogs and had a new center support bearing pressed on at a driveline shop. Reinstall driveshaft same as it came out. The u-joint at the diff was shot, the other two not far behind. The chirping vanished as expected, but was replaced with a slight vibration felt in the seat starting at 50-55 mph. I dropped the truck off at the driveline shop to get the driveshaft balanced. They put it on the balancer and called to say they couldn't balance it, the indicator kept jumping around and wouldn't stabilize. I asked them to reinstall it and came to pick get the truck. The guy who worked on it said that this was usually a u-joint problem. I asked what brand they used and pulled he out a Neapco u-joint box and said they use them exclusively and have never had any problems. I ordered Neapcos from RockAuto. Will replace the Moogs and see what happens. After they reinstalled the shaft I drove in the freeway and it acted exactly the same.
I was very careful when pressing out the old joints not to stress any of the yokes, applying pressure to the u-joint members at right angles to the cap being pressed out and not to the cap 180 degrees opposite. When installing the new joints, after inserting the clips (interior) I pressed all clips snug against the yoke. The joints all moved freely in all directions. Again, the shaft was replaced exactly as it came out.
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I have a 1999 Honda Accord (4 Cylinder, 180,000 miles). After a recent blizzard here in Wisconsin I am hearing a "whirring" sound coming from the front end of my car. I begin to hear it at about 10mph and it gets progressively louder and begins to sound like a jet at cruising altitude. The car overall sounds louder on the road. I checked for the possibility of snow/ice packed around the wheels or underneath the car but don't see any. A wheel bearing possibly?
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I test-drove a 1994 Honda Accord with 140K today. Looking for reliable car for relative, and this was one of the better options, on paper at least, in the price range.It drove like a used car, but I was concerned about one thing: A ping when accelerating from low speed. It didn't do it constantly, but only when going from a standstill or slowdown back up to speed. The seller said he'd been told it was an issue with the catalytic converter. I've been told that a higher octane fuel will sometimes quell a ping in an engine with no knock sensor.Is this something I should be worried about? Is the high-octane rumor true? The car was otherwise very nicely maintained.
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Mechanic could not find any codes on my 98 Honda Accord... The car was intermittently hesitating upon acceleration... There were no leaks or no burning odor. He recommended replacing the transmission and failed to adhere to code 3361.1... The car performed the same way after the transmission was replaced and he "could not duplicate" the problem and therefore could not fix it... He did state the clutch were burnt on the car. After failing a smog check I brought the car to a different mechanic who changed the oxygen sensor and the car has been running fine.
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I have a '92 accord 5 speed. I began to notice that when I step on the accelerator theirs a slight hesistation. It is very prominent when shifting gearsNo problem when the car is idling.
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I have a 2003 Honda Accord V6 that has some acceleration hesitation and general jerkiness, usually noticeable when the car has been sitting for a long period of time (overnight). The symptoms seem to dissipate after 5 - 10 minutes of driving.
When I begin accelerating, the car feels like it hesitates when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. If I let off the gas a bit, then the car jerks a bit.
I'm sure it's not the transmission, because the dealer said the fluid and everything looks fine. Additionally, I have another Accord (2000) that does have a failing transmission and the symptoms on that one are very different from this 2003.
A couple of months ago, I was getting a CEL and had a friend of mine read the code with his OBD tool. It indicated that Bank 1 Sensor 1 was bad. I replaced it with a Denso. I think the problem got better at that point, but has "worsened" again over the past month or so.
Any clues what this might be? Things I can try? Ways to narrow down the issue?
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My 2005 Accord steering wheel shakes quite a bit when I start to accelerate. I had the tires rebalanced, and it's still happening. The dealership indicated that there was "play" in both axles, and they both needed to be replaced ..... There's 85,000 miles on the vehicle and it's in excellent condition, could this shaking be caused by something else ?
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I have a Honda Accord EX 4 cyl. 2002. It has sluggish acceleration and hesitation problems. I put in new plugs and that improved it some. My mechanic says I should pay him to clean the fuel injectors. What will work best? What needs to be cleaned? Would new plug wires work? Gumout? Big differences in cost.
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I own a '90 Honda Accord and it constantly shakes, has poor acceleration and seems to use too much gas. I thought it was the catalytic converter and I installed a high flow cat. The fuel pump went out so I had that replaced. It shakes less since replacing the cat but I still see the gas gauge go down too low when I press on the gas and the car will stall and stop as I get to "E" when normally I was able to drive many miles past "E". Any guesses? I'm wondering if I need to replace the fuel pressure regulator.
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