Acceleration - Engines - Cougar :: 1999 - Won't Accelerate - Stinks Like Eggs - Engine Code P1744?
Aug 29, 2011
I have a 1999 mercury cougar and recently my acceleration has gone down huge, when i try to go onto a highway my car starts to chug, i have to push the pedal to the floor for it to actually start picking up speed a little faster, and once in a while i smell a sulfur smell!
Another symptom I have is my engine heat goes up 3/4 of the way when this happens! Also once in a while after driving while its hot the car starts to shake lightly then shakes a lot until i get off the highway and bring my speed from 110km/h to about 60k?
Engine codes: p1744
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93 Mercury Cougar 3.8L V6 with just over 83,000 miles
l've been trying to figure out this issue for ages, but can't seem to find the root of the issue. When driving and accelerating to 40mph, the rpms drop and GET STUCK at exactly 1000rpm. Forcing the accelerator down makes the engine bog and sputter and not go any faster. No check engine lights whatsoever.
The idle is very rough and low in park (700rpm compared to the regular 900) and very low in drive (500 compared to 650-750). When stopped in traffic for a while, it begins to shudder and shake like it wants to stall right there. Now let me run down the extensive list of parts l've thrown at it, bringing only temporary results:
Replaced catalytic converter
Replaced IAC valve
Replaced O2 sensors
Rebuilt transmission (runs great, so l've ruled that out)
Replaced 1fuel injector
Replaced MAF sensor
Replaced motor mounts
Cleaned throttle body extensively
I asked a guy at a Firestone and he said that l needed a valve job. Asked another guy at another place, he said l needed a fuel system cleaning. Asked another guy under a tree, said l needed a new speed sensor. What could be the root issue? l was thinking carbon build up over 22 years maybe? Almost all 83k of those miles have been city miles...
This car is my baby, all l want is for it to be able to handle highway speeds without a hiccup. l'm keeping it and plan to see 100k hit the odometer and many more miles!
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After multiple problems with this vehicle already, it's about time that I made an account.
We have a 2003 Escape XLT with around 150k on it, and are now having transmission issues.
It's slipped some when cold and starting from a full stop and sometimes rolling stop, when trying to accelerate. Basically, it acts like it's in neutral until the gears "catch up". Once it's warmed up, it's fine even on steep hills. Also, going in reverse seems to act normally oddly enough.
We were hoping to get through winter as it was since it was easily manageable, but yesterday the O/D light started flashing and we have the pending error P1744. Nothing happened when the error came on including the normal slip since everything was warm at the time.
We'd of course, love to avoid completely replacing the tranny, but I'm mostly learning as I go with this one. Where to start narrowing out possibilities? The fluid was changed when we first got the escape about four years ago and is still at the right level and clear/red.
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Description of Problem: 1999 mercury cougar 2.5L V6 automatic trans: I was driving down the road and suddenly lost power. The engine was still running but sounded a little rough so i turned it off. then it wouldn't start. After having it parked for a couple months i started looking ant it and notice that the starter is spinning the flexplate but the harmonic balance isn't turning. It does turn by hand with a socket. After talking to a mechanic i was told a used motor would run. He said i broke the crank or timing chain? I thought if it was the timing chain the harmonic balancer would still turn, he didn't agree. and i thought it was unlikely that the crank would just break driving down the road. What it could be? or how i can narrow it down. If the flexplate or bolts broke off would that cause my problem?
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I have a 2001 Mercury Cougar 2.5l v6 with 142,000 miles. If I'm in idle, you can feel it discordantly kind of jumping. Guessing it's coming from the engine. When I accelerate, normally from 35-45 mph the engine sputters and is very jerky but then accelerates as normal. I am going through gas more than before. I've replaced the spark plugs and wires and it hasn't fixed.
It runs worse when my AC is on, guessing because it's more stress on the engine. don't know if it's relevant but I have a signal on my dashboard that shows how many miles I have left to drive with the amount of gas I currently have - and it's become way off, is totally inaccurate now. I also know I need an oil change.
Don't know a whole lot about cars, but I can't afford to have my car become out of commission. What the problem would be? The last mechanic I saw said it needs a tune up, but it was expensive so I've been trying things myself first.
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I'm not sure whats wrong here but i think its a plugged exhaust or clogged catalytic converter but whats happening is when I drive my car is lacking power huge, sometimes ill push on the gas and it will hardly move and start chugging but if i push down more it will go. When i go on on ramps to the highway as soon as i hit 70km it starts to chug then i have to push the pedal to the floor to get going,then after a while the car will start to shake after 5-10 minutes of driving and i have to let it cool down or it will keep shaking or just go back onto city roads and it doesnt shake as bad. Once im off the highway my car will begin to shake more at 20km and 60km i have no clue why!
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2002 Ford Escape... My OD light started to come on every once in a while, and would go off once I turned the car off... This being said, as far as I could tell, the tranny was running smooth. Then an engine light popped on and this code and explanation come up... P1744 "Torque Converter Clutch System Stuck in OFF position".
I recently came back from a bit of a trip... and after shutting the car off, it didn't want to restart. Since this time, the car has begun to start, but the engine light remains on with the P1744 coming up...
Research seems to indicate that the problem is with the Torque Converter Solenoid. You Tube videos show that there are two solenoids just under the transmission pan...
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I have a 2000 expedition with the 5.4L and a squirrel got under the hood and chewed up some wires that run to the pcm along with some vacuum lines. I got all the wires I seen spliced back together. I drove it yesterday for the first time and my check engine light came on. I pulled a p1744 a trans solenoid for torque converter lock up. The fluid isn't low and looks bright red on dipstick. It drives and shifts fine. Is there a certain wire from the pcm harness I need to look at first?
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My friend has a 97 Aerostar swb panel van. It's a 3.o with an automatic, with the code of death P1744. For the price of a rebuild, he would rather put a manual trans in it. What trans will fit, and what needs to be done as far as electronics goes?
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I got this code and symptoms of 1-2 hard shift and no torque converter lockup. No flashing overdrive light on shifter. If I switch off engine all shifts are smooth until I pass 45mph. I would feel the TCC lockup. This doesn't happen the as i come to a stop I get a harsh 2-1 shift. Key off restart then shifts smoothly up and down provided I dont exceed the TCC lockup speed. This leads me to the TCC solenoid I think. Fluid has been changed regularly.
Had to drive 300 miles to get home. Only for the plate trans cooler the fluid would have overheated as on inclines on cruise control the engine would rev to 3k to keep the speed at 70mph and I could see the fluid temp increasing. Fuel consumption was very bad almost a full tank (with no ac). Doing some research there is talk about valve gasket blowout Epc solenoids etc, though these were for Rangers and Explorers, no real mention of Aerostar.
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i have a 1999 mercury cougar and for almost a year when I drive it on the highway then get off and go to drive again it gives me a hard shift and will continue doing so, but if i turn the car off then back on it doesn't do it, very weird, but i got the codes and not sure what my next step would be to fixing it p1744- TCC system perform p1519 - IMRC stuck closed again this only happened when i drive the car for about 10-15 min on the highway then get off...
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I have a 1.8i golf 3.... I am Getting the ticking noise from the engine/head, not really sure what it is. I went to one mechanic who said it was the hydraulic lifters which i did change but no difference.
the noise gets louder when i accelerate even when parked, what i have noticed is when I accelerate when driving the noise gets louder and when i put my clutch in to change a gear the noise starts to drop but makes some kind of a winding noise.
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I have a Toyota Corolla 99 that I have owned for a bit over 2 years; it has 97500 miles. After around 2,000 miles after an oil change it starts burning oil (no smoke or smell). I tried to check it often to make sure I am not running on empty. The last time I had to fill it up once and top off a bit another time before the oil change. I recently also changed the serpentine belt.
I thought the serpentine belt was the noise I was hearing when idling. Now, the noise is still there. Does not get worse when accelerating so hoping it is not a engine knock. Was told by Autozone guy that might be the iddle throttle. Hard to describe noise. No clank, almost like something spinning with a noise every 2 seconds.
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I was caught up in the middle of the haboob (major dust storm) in Phoenix this summer. I drove through it in my 2008 BMW X3 (40K miles) for about 45 minutes. Ever since, the engine has been idling rough and hesitant on acceleration. I had replaced the air filter which was full of fine dust particles and thoroughly cleaned and vacuumed the internal of the filter housing. I also used Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner on a couple of tanks. The condition has improved a bit but it is still not back to how it was before.
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This is the second time that this has been happening. Noticed that it only happens when I use tiptronic (manual). First time I was driving hard then floored brake become light turned yellow. Few minutes later, a rotten, sulfur, egg smell came out of no where and my sister thought I passed gas (when I did not).
Second time that happened was when I dropped off my friend late at night, went on manual but this time I drove casually & normally and didn't go crazy. As soon as my friend got off, there's more of a burnt smell then with a hint of a rotten egg that took place in my car.
My car is 2009 and has only 83k miles in it. Read to a similar scenario online and seems like my catalytic converter needs to be replaced.
I worried that my car is internally bad, should I bring it back to Toyota (where I purchased vehicle pre-owned) for a diagnostic?
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The engine cranks and tries to start when the battery is connected. It does this automatically, you don't even need the key or ignition to be turned on. The remote selonoid has been replaced so has the starter. The car does start and run when you let it but the starter remains engaged so its LOUD. I have bypassed the ignition switch by disconnecting it entirely, however the car still cranks and wants to turn on when the battery is connected.
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I had to drive 70 miles last week the temp outside was 98. My air conditioner was blowing cold air, I parked my car for 30 minutes. When I started my car again the air would not work, no blower nothing. I was on my way to have it tested, turned it on and it is working and blowing cold air. I do not to be stuck again traveling and it stop.
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I have a 1999 Mercury Cougar after it rains, I am get water on the left sided rug a lot and my tuck is wet too. How I can fix the leak and where its coming it at ...
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I have a 2002 Toyota Corolla. On a hot day (the first in a while), I got a check engine light for P0125. I'm going to clear it and see if it comes back. I think it is a false alarm for insufficient engine coolant. If the code and check engine light come back, what should I do?
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Last year my wife and I purchased a 2011 certified pre-owned tiguan from a local VW dealership which will stay anonymous atm. This past weekend we were driving home and noticed a rattle coming from the engine upon acceleration or around 2k-3k. The EPC light and check engine light both flash one time whenever this happens but never stay on. I scanned the car and found a pending p0341.
I know about the timing tensioner so I waited until the car cooled completely and went outside about 1am and started the car, sure enough it made the star-up rattle.
We took it back to the dealer and they diagnosed it with a failed timing chain and camshaft and are going to replace the components. I'm guessing by failed timing chain they mean the tensioner.
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While driving in a storm over the winter, I hit a skid and reverted to my old days of driving on ice (in a different stick-shift car). I tried to down-shift our '98 Camry (automatic)....so I placed it in reverse. It stalled. The car continues to run, but the check engine light has been on since that day.
I took it into a nearby garage the next week and they couldn't find any engine issues that time. They turned off the check engine light. It came back on the next day. I went to Advanced Auto Parts and got the code read: PO 171.
Since then, I've been driving the car once or twice a week, saving up $$ before taking it to my new repair shop -- to which we've switched for our other car. What might I expect to hear from them about our Camry? Am I damaging the car by continuing to drive it?
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