Acceleration - Audi - A6 :: Started Accelerating By Itself While On Highway
Jan 22, 2011
Yesterday in MN when it was -17 while on the highway around 5 pm my 96 Audi A6 started accelerating by itself. I was able to get of the highway and to a parking lot where it idled in park at about 4000 rpm's before I turned it off and let it sit for several minutes. I started it twice the second time it did not rev up to 4000, it was just normal. My question is this a sign of something terrible or just the cold messing with my old car? Should I have something specifically checked out?
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I have a 98 Audi A6. Immediately when I hit the accelerator from a dead stop I hear a slight bang that seems to come from under the car in the area under the front drivers seat. It only happens when I hit the gas and the car starts forward. I'm not putting the pedal to the floor either, just a nice gradually start from a dead stop. This is the only time that I hear this noise, nothing while driving or making turns. The noise sounds like when you might squeeze and empty tin box! that distinct bang you hear. What might this be?
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When I start my Audi car it runs on few seconds. However when i take it for dealers they said there is no such problem in battery. So what should i do now, my car is not running properly.
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My 1995 Audi 90 Sport needs to have the acceleration pedal pushed very far, about half way, before the car begins to to move, also when the pedal is put all the way to the floor the vehicle only goes to around 70mph.
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I have a 1991 Audi 100 that is flawless and paid for. 215,000 miles and doesn't leak or use a drop of any vital fluid. It does have one problem: While under load and accelerating from a dead stop, about 75% of the time the engine hesitates as if it is not getting any fuel. You step on the accelerator, get no response for one second and then off you go, no problem. On occasion while accelerating from a dead stop, the engine will quickly cough, pop like a backfire, and then catch. I have replaced the fuel filter, and through accident inadvertently found out that I seem to have excellent fuel pressure. While at speed, I seem to have little or no problem with instant acceleration when the accelerator is pressed.
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I have a 1997 Audi A4 that has been acting a little bit strange lately. When it is started up and left to idle all of a sudden the RPMs drop from around 600-800 to 100-200 sometimes rebounding back up and sometimes the car just dies. This also is happening while I am driving and stopped at a stop light for a short time. It will idle fine then suddenly drop RPMs and if I don't give it any gas then the car usually dies. I have just had some work done on it to try and fix this problem thinking it was the air flow sensor (or something like that) but apparently that is not the case.
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We have owned our 07' since it was new and have performed regular maintenance per the owners manual. We are at 105,000 miles and I've noticed a subtle surging sensation when entering the highway with my foot flat on the accelerator.
Looking at the MFD, I see both the engine and motor supplying power continuously during the surging sensation. When this occurs, the batteries are never "low". They always show 5-8 bars of charge. I tuned the car with factory plugs, air filter and PCV valve, but that did not work. The sensation only seems to occur at wide open throttle and is undetectable at lower acceleration or at standard highway speeds. I'm happy to ignore the issue, but am curious what might be going on...
Just reading up on Optima Yellow Top batteries and issues for Prius owners. We installed one about two years ago. Doing some of the tests mentioned online, like engine in run position, but not running yields a battery voltage of 11.9. Out of spec, I think. Engine running = 14.1v.
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I have been searching online for days trying to find out why my car is smoking. i recently broke the oil pan on my 03 vw passat 1.8T. When I broke it I didn't know what had happened and I am sure all the oil drained completely out. The turn off engine now light came on and immediately shut car off! But I am not sure if i did in time before doing any major damage. my husband replaced the oil pan with a new one and everything seemed to be running good. i drove it for about 10 days and i noticed a whitish (I am not really sure of the color cause it was in my rear view mirror and couldn't see well) smoke coming from the exhaust as i was accelerating to get on the highway lasted about maybe 5sec then stopped. it has since done it 2 more times as i am getting on the highway but not every time. There are no fluid loss doesn't overheat when driving it all the fluids are good. I thought maybe head gasket or cracked head but husband says its not. the last it did it i stopped driving it in hopes to find out why its SMOKING!!!
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Car just stopped accelerating on highway. It starts again after about 10 minutes. Also the wheel gets stiff when it stops accelerating. What could be wrong?
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I've got a 2002 Toyota Camry with 96,000 miles on it. Car has been running fine for years but on a recent 250-mile drive I noticed a whirring noise (almost like the engine of a remote-control electric car). The noise is faint, but definitely new. I'm fairly sure it's coming from the under the hood, or at least from the front half of the car. No vibrations. The noise is only audible at highway speeds, and really only present when I'm accelerating (or on cruise control). It seems to get slightly worse if the car is climbing a hill.
Some things that have been worrying me:*I left the car in a friend's driveway all summer. Could that have anything to do with it? (There were no noticeable problems when I got back, which was months ago--when I came back after two months, I simply re-connected the battery and the car started on the first try).*I had a transmission fluid change about 2K miles ago. It was at a Jiffy Lube. They "flushed" the old fluid. They claimed they used the correct Toyota brand fluid. (I've since read that flushing the old fluid can be a bad idea for older cars.) Could this have something to do with it?*I just had my snow tires put on two weeks ago (and this is the first long drive I've done with the snow tires on). The guy who changed my tires took about 2.5 hours to do the job, saying "this is only his second week." The car is steering fine, and not drifting or anything, but could that mechanic have done something to the tires that is causing this highway-speed, acceleration-only whirring noise?
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I'm noticing more and more on the highway when i accelerate that my car seems to pull to one side then when it shifts it snaps back. I'm not really sure if I'm even describing a transmission issue or a power steering issue. Basically, it just seems to pull and snap back fairly strongly, enough to cause a slight swerve as it shifts during acceleration. Where to start on something like this? (no error codes or check engine lights. Also no vibrations or other sounds).
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I've driven 32k miles now, and I'm having an acceleration problem. It does not happen everyday, maybe once a month. but once I start accelerating hard to merge onto highway, it shifts down and rpm goes up but the speed remains the same.
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I just had four new LT E rated tires installed (balanced). Alignment is good and did not require adjustment. Tires are correct size for the vehicle. I noticed during an extended highway trip yesterday that the truck (94 K1500 Suburban) seemed to shake or rather bump slightly when I was accelerating to pass in the sixty-five to seventy-five mph range. Almost seemed like driving on a fine washboard. I looked at the balancing weights which on three of the wheels appear to be nearly the same size. Then I noticed the right front weight is obviously larger than the other three. Could this be the problem?
There's a bit of a story here. (Isn't there always?) I bought the tires from one source (whom I would never trust to do any repairs) and had a shop I deal with regularly close to home install them. The morning after the install I went to check the pressure cold and discovered that the right front tire was a standard tire while the others were the LTs which the bill showed I had paid for. So I missed this when I bought them (they threw them in the back of the truck after assuring me all four were the same) and my mechanic missed it when they were installed. Now the tires do look almost identical but the lettering on the standard tire was black both sides while the LTs were white on one side. Of course the standard tire has a lower maximum psi rating.
I went to the mechanic first and he admitted to noticing this but I guess it just didn't register with him to double check to see if it was actually a different tire before mounting it?! I should say I am having second thoughts about using this shop in future, especially after they under inflated the tires at 30psi as well. When I told him I was running 45psi he looked at me like I was from Mars but then, upon checking his Mitchell Manual he says that yes, this truck should have 45 to 65 psi. Anyway, the guys who sold me the wrong tire made good on the problem however they installed and balanced it and I'm wondering if they got this part wrong hence the vibration I'm getting at around seventy-five.
The work order from the guys who installed the tires also states I need two upper ball joints, pitman's arm and left outer tie rod and alignment (which I understand is standard when doing this job). Now I had them show me this and while I'm no mechanic I could see the play in the ball joints was extremely minimal and pitman arm almost negligible (the mechanic had a lot of trouble showing me this had any play at all and admitted he had seen much worse). The boot on the left outer CV joint is also split and missing its grease. I'm not saying the suspension is perfect but I think they are on a fishing expedition here and I am skeptical this is what is causing the vibration at high speed because I never noticed it until the new skins were applied.
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I have a 2005 Toyota Corolla XRS with a manual transmission which has developed a shudder. When this shudder started, it only occurred when accelerating at highway speeds, or maintaining highway speeds. Now it happens at lower speeds if I give it gas without downshifting, but at reasonable RPM, 3000-5000. I cannot feel the shudder in the steering wheel, but the whole car shakes, and it definitely feels like it is coming from the front end. I have had the tires balanced and rotated. I also have replaced the IACV and MAF due to a CEL. These were replaced after the shudder started. For a few days after the replacement, the CEL returned, but now I am no longer getting it.
There are no visibly obvious issues with the suspension or the drive shafts or CV joints, and the motor mounts likewise look okay. I am not getting a CEL of any kind, and I replaced my plugs 6 months ago, but I pulled them anyway, and they are not fouled. I don’t think the issue is in my suspension, steering, or wheels because I cannot feel it in the steering wheel. I don’t think my half shafts are warped because the shudder happens at varying speeds, and the instant I let off of the gas, it stops. Though this doesn’t rule them out completely, there is no clicking from the CV joints. When I brake, the car slows smoothly, so the rotors are fine. I have run injector cleaner a couple of times, and octane boost once. These both seemed to solve the issue, but did not make it stop, and it has gotten worse lately. My wife did put low-octane gas in the car once, but it was weeks ago.
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My '01 Aztek has a very odd shimmy. It only happens when turning right, at highway speeds, and when accelerating. Not when turning left, and not while just 'coasting'. Only when accelerating.
The mechanic replaced a tie rod end, and that seemed to fix things for a few hundred miles. But now it's back and is happening at lower speeds.
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The last couple of days I've noticed a strange sound that come on under boost accelerating at highway speeds. It's a harsh ssshhhh sound that rises in frequency with engine RPM, sort of between a wood lathe and a bench grinder. happens under mid to WOT. It almost seems like I am loosing a little HP as well but I can't confirm that. It's loud enough to hear it in the cabin and with the windows down I can definitely hear it. It's not really fluttering, that I'm used to being on my 3rd tuned 2.0T
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I have a 1994 Pontiac Grand Am 2.3 L. I went 3 blocks yesterday to the highway and as i got ready to pull out onto the highway I lost power (like foot feed to the floor and going 20 mph). Drove it back home (3 blocks) and the engine is over heating within 3 blocks but temp gage isn't registering over heating (Incredibly hot under the car within 3 blocks). Engine was shaking badly and whatever it was blew a hole in my muffler? Put on all new spark plugs, oil change, oil filter... No more shaking in the motor but still no power when trying to go. Cut catalytic converter off and tried to drive out of the driveway, still no power on acceleration.
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I'm a new 2007 Prius owner, and I know that the Prius is no sports car, but this acceleration is very slow. When I'm speeding up to get on the highway, it really sounds like the gasoline engine is working hard to get up to that speed. I've had cars in the past where the emergency brake gets stuck, can that be a probable cause, or is this type of slow, strenuous acceleration normal for the little Prius?
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I was driving the other day and accelerated in 5th and the car stuttered before finally going- I got the flashing CEL. I figured that the car was misfiring and that a coilpack change was the culprit. All my coilpacks are fine and the sparkplugs look good as well. CEL hasn't come back, but the car just feels like it doesn't want to go right away when if i give it some gas when I'm going about 55-65 MPH.
Other guesses would be there is a fuel cut somewhere and that may be causing it?
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2002 Santa Fe 2.7L AWD automatic
She was on the highway this afternoon and was accelerating to merge in with traffic. Apparently the car just reved up without actually accelerating. She said it felt like she was in neutral. I've driven the car a few times over the last week and it has been running perfectly - No hesitation anywhere at any speed. There are no CELs (yet). It is probably worth mentioning that it has been raining HEAVILY here for the last 24-hours and I would not be the least bit surprised if she hit a few puddles on the way. I can just about guarantee the CPS has never been changed and am suspecting it may be a short in causing her problem.
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I recently had the following work done or replaced on my 2005 Saab 9-2 X -
Timing belt kit and water pump replacedA/C BeltALT/P/S BeltFront Camshaft seal KitFront Camshaft seal
Everything was fine for a couple of weeks. A few days ago my car started shuddering on the highway and the check engine light came on. I was out of town at the time and took my car to a different service garage. They found that "Cylinder #3 was miss firing and had very low compression, only 20 psi" They suggested I may need to find a used motor to have installed...
I arranged to have the car transported home and dropped of at the shop that performed the original work.
Is it possible that the current problem could have been caused by the previous work being done incorrectly?Or should this possibility of this problem been noticed when the previous work had been done?
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